This correctly titled would be considered a "Built Log".
The subject is a heavily kit-bashed Lindberg North Atlantic Fishing Trawler.
It was built in 2012 and modified from the described kit not only in appearance, but also to include basic RC capabilities. Forward, reverse, rudder, with port and starboard lights.
This was an exercise undertaken on a whim to discover if the Lindberg "fleet" of this scale could be successfully RC'd. The kit-bashing aspect was just to create something different. Utilizing the trawler, tuna boat, tug, lightship, and shrimper and building each stock, then building a second model of each one to a different style/configuration, would create a fleet of boats that could easily fit in the back of a standard sedan with room to spare. Another plus is the ability to carry the boat and radio to the water in one trip.
The only real downside is the pond being run in has to be pretty flat as a duck wake could be problematic.😊
Photo's
1. An image of the final result.
2. & 3. Accomplishing float tests in a wall paper wetting trough. This hull comes in two parts and is designed for a static display. The first test included checking for any leaks after joining the hull halves with epoxy.
4. & 5. Adding the electronics and superstructure parts that will be used during the build to establish a working waterline and determine a guesstimate as to how much ballast will be needed.
6. Comparing a box stock quick build as Lindberg provided, against the potential deviations.
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This correctly titled would be considered a "Built Log".
The subject is a heavily kit-bashed Lindberg North Atlantic Fishing Trawler.
It was built in 2012 and modified from the described kit not only in appearance, but also to include basic RC capabilities. Forward, reverse, rudder, with port and starboard lights.
This was an exercise undertaken on a whim to discover if the Lindberg "fleet" of this scale could be successfully RC'd. The kit-bashing aspect was just to create something different. Utilizing the trawler, tuna boat, tug, lightship, and shrimper and building each stock, then building a second model of each one to a different style/configuration, would create a fleet of boats that could easily fit in the back of a standard sedan with room to spare. Another plus is the ability to carry the boat and radio to the water in one trip.
The only real downside is the pond being run in has to be pretty flat as a duck wake could be problematic.😊
Photo's
1. An image of the final result.
2. & 3. Accomplishing float tests in a wall paper wetting trough. This hull comes in two parts and is designed for a static display. The first test included checking for any leaks after joining the hull halves with epoxy.
4. & 5. Adding the electronics and superstructure parts that will be used during the build to establish a working waterline and determine a guesstimate as to how much ballast will be needed.
6. Comparing a box stock quick build as Lindberg provided, against the potential deviations.
Sorry for the abreviaton I was thinking of one transmitter (tx) per model.
I recently tried 1 Tx 4 channel to run 2 models at the same time. You would need therapy after doing that!
I put a 4 ch receiver (rx) in each and had the left stick for one model and the right stack for the other.
Channels 1 and 2 for one boat and 3 and 4 for the other.
I found I need to practice my left hand operation of one model before I attempt to do it again. The reactions are not what you expect!
regards
Roy
No worries. I use one radio capable of several different models, but only attempt operating one at a time. I do OK with right and left when the model is going away from me, but have to think when it's coming towards me. I can't imagine two at a time.
The electrical system is very basic. The main switch is under the forward winch. Sliding the winch port turns everything on, to stbd turns the main power off.
Although it looks pretty grim in the photo, the ballast used was buckshot spooned in to strategic places, then a lit candle held over the area allowing the wax drippings to encase the shot and prevent it from moving. Should the need arise, it'll be easy to remove the ballast with the same spoon.
The lighting is rather crude as I hadn't been introduced to LED's at this point and was using grain of wheat bulbs. Running them at a much lower voltage provided the visual effect even though they didn't project any significant amount of light and didn't get warm.
One switch is running lights, the other was deck lights.
The ESC is an early "Action" unit (Now "Component Shop".) The motor was something rescued from the junk drawer. A standard rx, and mini servo for steering.
The rudder was enhanced a little from the kit size, but the propeller from the kit proved adequate and actually provided more than scale speed without causing any issues with the rest of the system.
I'll explore some of the external details in the next post. Thank you...
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The electrical system is very basic. The main switch is under the forward winch. Sliding the winch port turns everything on, to stbd turns the main power off.
Although it looks pretty grim in the photo, the ballast used was buckshot spooned in to strategic places, then a lit candle held over the area allowing the wax drippings to encase the shot and prevent it from moving. Should the need arise, it'll be easy to remove the ballast with the same spoon.
The lighting is rather crude as I hadn't been introduced to LED's at this point and was using grain of wheat bulbs. Running them at a much lower voltage provided the visual effect even though they didn't project any significant amount of light and didn't get warm.
One switch is running lights, the other was deck lights.
The ESC is an early "Action" unit (Now "Component Shop".) The motor was something rescued from the junk drawer. A standard rx, and mini servo for steering.
The rudder was enhanced a little from the kit size, but the propeller from the kit proved adequate and actually provided more than scale speed without causing any issues with the rest of the system.
I'll explore some of the external details in the next post. Thank you...
After installing and proving the running gear and electricals, work could begin topside. To this point the ship didn't have a name and wouldn't until it started to develop a personality.
Creating a couple of hatches 'midships allows access the internals. I moved the deckhouse aft and added a table and awning on the 01 deck for the crew. The bos'n has a lounge chair, book, and bottle of wine on the 02 deck.
Down and forward of the house there's a crewman doing some hot work on the main boom. The gas bottles are just turned dowels and the "hose" is a piece of wire. The mast was reconfigured as was the fore deck. The winch that the main power switch is under is located forward of the mast, and just aft of the fo'csle deck.
A printed wooden deck, metal stanchions, and some non stock details were added forward.
The mounting/cradle has a little activity under the stern repairing a wheel that has apparently come up against hard times.
Although this build was ten years ago, it still runs.
It's a little faster than scale, but that's fine, using the kit wheel has proven more than adequate. It will heel a little at full speed and a crash turn, but recovers very quickly with the ballast installed.
The "rust" is simply rusty water brushed on from a jar full of salt water and nails that is left on the shelf then shaken up when needed. The paints are all acrylic water based.
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After installing and proving the running gear and electricals, work could begin topside. To this point the ship didn't have a name and wouldn't until it started to develop a personality.
Creating a couple of hatches 'midships allows access the internals. I moved the deckhouse aft and added a table and awning on the 01 deck for the crew. The bos'n has a lounge chair, book, and bottle of wine on the 02 deck.
Down and forward of the house there's a crewman doing some hot work on the main boom. The gas bottles are just turned dowels and the "hose" is a piece of wire. The mast was reconfigured as was the fore deck. The winch that the main power switch is under is located forward of the mast, and just aft of the fo'csle deck.
A printed wooden deck, metal stanchions, and some non stock details were added forward.
The mounting/cradle has a little activity under the stern repairing a wheel that has apparently come up against hard times.
Although this build was ten years ago, it still runs.
It's a little faster than scale, but that's fine, using the kit wheel has proven more than adequate. It will heel a little at full speed and a crash turn, but recovers very quickly with the ballast installed.
The "rust" is simply rusty water brushed on from a jar full of salt water and nails that is left on the shelf then shaken up when needed. The paints are all acrylic water based.
I recently tried 1 Tx 4 channel to run 2 models at the same time. You would need therapy after doing that!
I put a 4 ch receiver (rx) in each and had the left stick for one model and the right stack for the other.
Channels 1 and 2 for one boat and 3 and 4 for the other.
I found I need to practice my left hand operation of one model before I attempt to do it again. The reactions are not what you expect!
regards
Roy