Another Orca Sarik Hobbies plans

Started by quattroo

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quattroo Opening post

Another Orca Sarik Hobbies plans

OK so over the years i have built many Model Boats some restores all types POF glass fibre plastics etc but never from a plan only so here goes this is inspired by what i have seen on this site and wanted to have one myself and after finding out there is no kit for this boat i thought i would give it a go these plans are Sarik Hobbies version and believe it or not are set at Beginner ? well i must be a complete novice because the first week i was trying to work out the keel from the drawings🙄 as you can see below they come with no patterns so its tracing paper im afraid .as you can see from the plans im guessing this will be classed as Semi scale as the hull is not the same as the real one last picture shows the rubbing strip on the stern is actually the shape of the real one however lest see what it turns out like
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  1. zooma
    Vice Admiral
    I have not built too many model boats from plans - but I have made a few over the years and understand the problems you are experiencing.
    Having worked out the shapes required to cut, I always make copies of them onto old cereal box (or similar) cardboard so I can use this as a template to draw the shapes onto the wood etc for cutting out.
    Using a ball point pen to draw around the template with gives me a nice sharp line to cut to that I find especially helpful when using the bandsaw.
    These templates are then kept alongside the plan for future reference 👍
    Liked by Trident73 and chugalone100 and
  2. quattroo
    Warrant Officer
    The idea was to use the new dremmel scroll saw I got but was offered by a friend he would do it work on the big laser cutter they have all I had to do was draw the lines on the sheet .. also as a bonus the sections cut out left a brilliant stencil on the ply sheet just in case I wanted to do another 👍
    I would love my own cutter but alas the good lady wife thinks I have too much as it is.. what with a 3d printer and all😂😌
    Liked by Doogle and chugalone100

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part 2

in this blog you will see what the actual Keel should be shaped like from here widened at the back then added the bulkheads and the Transcom . from there i added the chines top and bottom the curve on these chines i used the Kerf technique but added wood glue to all the tiny slots when i curved them round so should then glue the curve in place this system worked very well for me .
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part 3 skins

here is were i added the skins to the bottom and the sides firstly the bottom skins went on reasonably easy just leaving the very front of the bow . once in place and dry i moved onto the sides now i added here a couple of fillers at the top for the raised section as you will see i intend to use Balsa block for the very front part of the bow .once the fillers were in place they were trimmed to follow the bow line then the sides were added as you can see higher all along as i want the front raised section as one piece with the side skins
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  1. chugalone100Silver
    Commodore
    Quattro:
    Thank You for sharing your build with us.
    I have seen many Orcas models and I always wounder how to put this model together.
    So finally I will find out with your buld.🙄
    Liked by Doogle and quattroo

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part 4 the balsa block bow

this next part was relatively easy basically two balsa blocks cut to a rough shape glue in place once dry start shaping till; you get it were you want it . after i shaped this i added a skin to the transcom from here we was on smoothing to correct basic shape . once i was happy here i then put some filler in the small gaps and all over the balsa block to fill the sanded grain.
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part 5

this next part shows before i fit the deck as such i will clean as much of the inside and stain and seal with a couple of light coats of resin so it will water proof the wood on the inside in case of any potential leaks or ingress of water when using it . To note it also looks nice when your at the Lake and take the top off and anyone has a peek 👍.
last couple of pics here are the stand i made scrap piece of knotty pine 4x1 and a broken broom handle does the trick quick stain and yacht varnish it will be dry by about the time the boat is finished 😂🤣😂🤣
and yes i date stamp beginning and put my name in every build not always visible when finished though
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part 6

in this next part i make and install the deck or lack of it but the idea will be i can take the whole top off for access or that is my hope any ways 😁 after this was sanded flush i then smoothed what i had and then give the whole outer surface with a thin coat of resin ready for cloth
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part 7

next part is to cover the whole outer hull and deck in cloth and resin im using 1oz cloth here as it worked really well on my Slec Huntsman resin used is the same as well Deluxe Materials Ezicoat i think this stuff is brilliant and sands real easy whats more cleans up with water👍i managed to get it to form to the bottom and the side in one cloth sheet each side i thought i may have to do the bottom and the sides separate but nope went on relatively easily so i was most happy the stern and deck will require separate cloth but seeings as there flat i should see no trouble apart from the odd insect landing on it 😂🤣
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  1. Hhager2
    Lieutenant
    I thin the epoxy or buy it thinner for fiberglassing. I used a bit of mineral spirits It seem to work. I press it in the fiber glass using a discarded credit card or plastic sheet that thick. I apply to ship hill then lay glass Matt on it. The card squeegees the epoxy thru the weave. I do it a few times and it smooths nicely. If done right you need only one coat. Once dried then you need to get waxy coating off. I used alcohol then a wet fine sandpaper. Then ready fir primer n any filling in of imperfections. Also before glass dries I may need to cut slits to get around keel etc. takes a few ships to do it well.
    Liked by River Rat and quattroo and

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Part 8

glassing mostly done and went on really well and smoothed off really fast at this point i added deck edges and rubbing strips i also decided were the prop tube will sit and decided to have the motor far up front to give me the room for cabin interior at a later stage i added a couple of support triangles to support the tube length to stop any flexing also note as the keel is so thick on this i had to recess were the water inlet goes on the inside as there not long enough water inlet poss just for ascetic looks rather than cooling as i dont think its going to be a water-speed record boat but may use a water cooled ESC on this one 😂🤣
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  1. JasonP
    Recruit
    I'm getting ready to build the same model where did you find the rudder and a propeller tube shaft and what sizes are they?

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part 9

at this stage i have gone over the whole hull exterior with some Filler Primer this i do this to give me an idea of any imperfections that need dealing with this is then smoothed out ready for other parts to be added to outer hull .
also and lucky for me i have my 3d printer i did the name plate for the stern and the trim to give it the illusion of curved rear i presume. This was in the plans i did this 3d printed as id need a really bendy piece of timber to recreate this looks odd though now but lets see what its like when painted👍
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Part 10 forward Thinking

ive now fitted the 3d printed parts to the transom and gave it a quick coat of grey primer before i move on to start on the superstructure seeings as this is my first scratch from plans it gives no idea on how do i want to get into the workings after the super structure is on so some forward thinking is needed notice the rear most bulkhead top cross section is now cut away dont worry there is method to my madness here i think😜 but seeing the the bulk heads are about 20mm thick it wont cause structural problems to the hull also notice ive added a couple of supports to the rear open deck idea here being as it looks here i should be able to have this much access once finishes
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