A few photos of how this build came together. In New England we refer to this type as a downeast (Maine) sport fisher since it’s built on a lobster boat hull. A couple of photographs early in the process.
Hull is a 36” long fiberglass hull built by a young craftsman in Bristol, Maine. Everything else scratch built.
More later about when it was built; sort of the reason for this blog.
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A few photos of how this build came together. In New England we refer to this type as a downeast (Maine) sport fisher since it’s built on a lobster boat hull. A couple of photographs early in the process.
Hull is a 36” long fiberglass hull built by a young craftsman in Bristol, Maine. Everything else scratch built.
More later about when it was built; sort of the reason for this blog.
Okay, so on to changing the drive.Upon getting started I discovered from my signature plate in the hull that I had built WHOPPER STOPPER ten years ago! Man how time flys!
The first photo is the original driveline. It was a mystery motor with what I think was a three to one gearbox that was in my parts box. I had never used gear reducer before so it seemed at the time like a good idea to experiment & use it. Not! Totally wrong application as I know now.
The second photo is the direct drive replacement motor. There’s absolutely no reason to have a gear reducer in sportfishing boat where you don’t need the torque like in a tug. I have not put it in the water yet to check out the speed from the new motor, which I’m sure is going to require backing off on the throttle endpoint settings & increasing the expo.
Now to get to the real intent of this thread. As mentioned I built this boat ten years ago when I first began constructing RC models. When I began the motor replacement I discovered major mistakes I had made during construction due to my limited knowledge at the time.
The photo shows the component foundations I neglected to securely attach to the hull. All of them were merely CA’d to the hull rather than being firmly attached to the hull with epoxy.
Other discrepancies included (no photos):
- no flats filed on motor, drive, & rudder shafts
- extreme misalignment between motor output shaft & drive shaft hoping coupling cured it
- not using pins to reinforce details like outrigger mounts to house
So my message to those new to RC boats is ask questions in this forum & others about quality components & construction techniques. There are many, many experienced builders who will gladly assist you. Know what you don’t know! Correct past miscues when you discover them. Most importantly, your skill set will improve as you gain experience so never become discouraged.
The end.
Your Grandfather’s Smack is a bit farther along than one I started many years ago. I got the large kit from Laughing Whale, who later sold it and the smaller version to Midwest. At some point I found that the plans had been lost, but I was able to get a new set from Laughing Whale.
My partially built hull has seen four moves, and now the kit and radio parts are in storage. I need to get my shop set up before bringing it home. But your Grandfather’s model raised some good memories. Looking forward to seeing you complete it. 😋
The first photo is the original driveline. It was a mystery motor with what I think was a three to one gearbox that was in my parts box. I had never used gear reducer before so it seemed at the time like a good idea to experiment & use it. Not! Totally wrong application as I know now.
The second photo is the direct drive replacement motor. There’s absolutely no reason to have a gear reducer in sportfishing boat where you don’t need the torque like in a tug. I have not put it in the water yet to check out the speed from the new motor, which I’m sure is going to require backing off on the throttle endpoint settings & increasing the expo.
The photo shows the component foundations I neglected to securely attach to the hull. All of them were merely CA’d to the hull rather than being firmly attached to the hull with epoxy.
Other discrepancies included (no photos):
- no flats filed on motor, drive, & rudder shafts
- extreme misalignment between motor output shaft & drive shaft hoping coupling cured it
- not using pins to reinforce details like outrigger mounts to house
So my message to those new to RC boats is ask questions in this forum & others about quality components & construction techniques. There are many, many experienced builders who will gladly assist you. Know what you don’t know! Correct past miscues when you discover them. Most importantly, your skill set will improve as you gain experience so never become discouraged.
The end.