For more than two years I build model Thames barge "Champion class" according to the adapted Chapelle´s drawing (in the book by F.G.Carr) .
At the very beginning I would like to state once more, that this was a working title. In the final consequence will be the model name Capricorn (scratch building, of course) as will be explained later .
I began to think about building a model TSB some day a few years ago, when I met Thanes sailing barges for the second time /really!) and did found the sailing barges really exists and Lady Daphne is not only picture in Harold Underhill book (Sailing ship rigs and rigging) but in fact quite nice boat .So decided to buy from England plans just for the sailing barge Lady Daphne by Harold Underhill … and bought I bought it from Brown, Son and Ferguson .
When I prepared model Lady Daphne ( "LD") at a scale of 1:28 ,I am on the Internet stumbled on plans for further barges, and it was TSB Nautilus , TSB Champion. In the books of England there was described TSB Kathleen and construction of its model . Along with plans Kathleen was little plan TSB Giralda - "champion of champions". Giralda had done a lot of winning races barges around 1900. I was struck that the ship had virtually the same dimensions   and profiles as those listed for TSB Champion . Plans for the Champion, as I later discovered, are from one book by the American author H.I.Chapelle , and plan itself is marked as "Champion class sailing barge".
Given that a plan for the Champion were not detailed drawings or sail plan, I was forced to redraw it in 1:24 scale(also the ribs for LD to scale 1:28)), so to get an idea of the dimensions of the construction details, sails and structural elements. Even so, during construction showed imperfections in the structure of ribs, due to enlarged artwork for my use at least 20 times. As a jobbing basis, I used especially plans for LD and pictures from books and photos from the Internet. A great help for me to were web pages dedicated to tsb > modelbarge.info < in which were published methods of building models of tsb by authors Kim Holland and Bob Smith. Also pages about the theory and construction of TSB, which was published on the Internet by Mr. Ivor Bittle (unfortunately no longer available)) are directly textbook models not only for Thames barges builders.Unfortunately, the site is no longer available - try searching...
I cut out keels for both barges from the 8 mm plywood , for LD in scale 1:28 with a length of model 98 cm, and Champion 1:24 with a length of model 110 cm. Followed by cutting of the ribs from 3 mm poplar plywood for both models. Fins for both models I've cut out from 8 mm plywood. Picture x  
I now had a choice .. and so appeared crucial question .. what to do next? Build both models, or just one?
Champion resemblance to the Giralda, which was designed and built especially for wins in the barge races , and cargo for her was in second place, decided. I chose Champion .. and so prepared for me a series of unexpected difficulties, of which slightly asymmetrical hull was just the beginning.
To do this, I want to point out ... I do not know how will behave my model on water. It seems to me that just Champion for my model is too optimistic name , and so I decided then to name the model of one zodiac sign "Capricorn"
So .. I had ribs and keel for Lady Daphne and Champion as I stated before.
Since I was curious to see what will be the Champion hull shape as the real model, so I chose Champion. I did not start building the model too happily, because only after coating the hull I found that keel was glued little asymmetrically . Nevertheless I decided go on building of this model.
Somewhere in the books I read , that similar accidents occurred also among reputable barge builders ( no comment ). In my gallery photos you can monitoring the progress of construction of model.
But I have to admit that the process and materials used during construction were amended several times.
After considering all the pros and cons I decided to glue the keel of 4 parts of plywood, 8 mm thick, with an integrated shaft for fin. Shaft thus formed central portion of the keel. (here mentioned inaccuracy occurred). Pict 2
Shaft I created such such way - the keel model was divided into two parts, leaving between them a gap in width of the keel (2 ) , front and rear part are joined with side walls , which form the own shaft .The plywood fin is tucked into centreboard casing only provisionally , for accurate keel sticking - but insulated with Scotch tape so they don't stick.
On the keel I'm stuck ribs of poplar plywood 3 mm (not very good) .Pict 3
To reinforce the keel was higher with notches for individual ribs. As an adhesive for the keel and ribs a I used epoxy, for most other connections I used a polyurethane adhesive.( picture 4 and the following).                                                                              

Paper layers I stuck with ordinary liquid white glue on paper, based on polyvinyl alcohol(PVAc) and used putty on the same basis. After several puttying and sanding the hull is ready to lamination. After sanding the hull looked pretty good. But alas .. I did not realize that this method has its hidden defects.
the next step was sticking spruce wood sheer strake and lamination of fuselage hull of model.( Pict )
I laminated 2 layers glass fabric 100 g / m2 using the epoxy resin. After lamination, I used again several layers of putty followed by grinding and and finally filler spraying.
Before applying putty, I cut a laminate which overlaps the opening of the centreboard case in the bottom of the ship                                                                              
Eager to see the model on the water, I filled the tub with water and made the first "launching".
It just brought but the first big disappointment .. model had a greater-than-expected dive on the bow than the stern. After the first measurement appeared the first mess that I'm on the laminate ships did not expect .. to ship somehow got water. I quickly sifted through all the options that seemed to consideration. What happened ?.. What the hell could happen ??
I finally realized that the fault was in an unsuitable technological procedure step around centreboard opening   before laminating . When I cut laminate under the centreboard case I uncovered the paper intermediate layer, through which the water came into the boat. Repair was relatively simple. With hand-held circular saw I cut a narrow strip of the laminate around the hole in the bottom of the model, edges of the opening I covered with epoxy resin and overlaid by glass cloth tape.( Pict  )
>important notice The friend who recommended this lamination method to me forgot to tell me that I had to coat the paper layer with diluted epoxy before sealing.!!

During the summer months (besides working in our garden) I used some free time and began preparing the casting of lead bulb.
On the internet, I found a suitable program for designing the shape and size of the lead "bombs" so that as a result of the burden of approx 3 and 4 kg.
=> see > http://www.onemetre.net

go to > Design

go to> Marko's bulb calculator <
the vertical line indicates the center of gravity of the profile
preview Bulbcalc as an example .. last 3 pictures
Please read the entire chapter regarding the load (lead bulb). I will be happy to answer any questions.
A small note - when designing lead bombs, it is possible to use a printer for output. That's why I was limited when designing the length of the bomb by the possibilities of the printer - a length of 28 cm for A4 format.
On the improvised lathe I made wooden models(I used dry lime-wood branches). I impregnated these models with wax, then made mold in plaster of Paris (gypsum).To strengthen the material of the mold, when mixing the gypsum mixture with water, I added about 1/4 of the volume of the liquid, an adhesive based on Polyvinyl Acetate Dispersion (PVAc). It worked very well for me, the form is "almost unbreakable". But the mixture hardens more slowly. Wooden models were immersed longitudinally till their half in plaster. The models were cautiously removed after hardening plaster , and the molds were then let dry completely. Drying moulds in the sun lasts at least 14 days. When you double-click at the dry mould, the plaster of Paris must "ring".; only then the mold is ready for casting lead.
The necessary amount of lead I gradually melted and cast into molds, After solidification of the lead I grabbed with pliers protruding wire and removed easily half of the lead bulb quickly from the mold. The result of my work were four lead casts of the required weight. For Capricorn I chose a lighter bomb weighing about 3 kg, (halves 2 x à1.5 kg).
 I cut off the protruding wire and the castings were purified by sandpaper, and contact surfaces I have aligned with a file
I filed the castings on the contact surfaces and ground them flat. Because the castings extended beyond the outline of the fin, I cut and glued an 8mm balsa wedge in the place of the overlap of the fins so that it filled the gap between the castings with the given thickness of the fin, and slightly exceeded the outline of the castings. After the glue hardened, I lightly sanded the whole thing. I painted both halves of the load with epoxy 1200, as well as the fin in the place where these will be glued.
I pulled everything together with PE tape and let the glue harden. After unwinding the tape, I filed the balsa wedge into the outline of the finished load - the bomb. This was followed by sanding and laminating with glass fabric. In the end, I sealed the whole thing again several times, sanded it, and finally sprayed it 4 times with a filler, as a base for spraying.. Last, I sprayed the entire fin black.
The fuselage of the model had already been repaired and then followed by another test in the bathtub. But I found another unexpected problem .. against my expectations empty hull has more dive on the bow than at the stern.
I used lead castings to balance the fuselage. This way I also found their location, on which they will be attached to the fin.
Against theoretical expectations, the load must be moved further backward.To a model with a length of 110 cm, the center of gravity provides a distance from the nose of about 42 cm(if I'm not mistaken), with my model, but it is 55 to 60 cm from the bow.
The model building then continued. The deck I made of 3mm plywood, I stuck ít to place, and I also stuck sheer strakes. All this I laminated again with glass fabric 100 g / m2.
Then I glued coamings around the hatches made of 3 mm plywood. From the outside I laminated with glass tape again, and the inside of the coamings I Impregnated with diluted epoxy.

On the improvised lathe I made wooden models for lead bulb (I used dry lime-wood branches) .

More detailed text was repeated in section 5b

Then I gradually started to make details of the on-board equipment. As the first of the series but came the rudder.
The rudder of the two halves from 4 mm plywood is glued together to the beam ( cross-section of 10 x 10 mm) , so that a gap ( around 1 mm) remained between the side parts to allow the insertion of the extension part. To the beam come attached the hinges of the rudder and the fork for connecting rod from the servos. It is similar to the rudder construction as Kimosuby describes in his post here. The extension part will be made of fibreglass 0.8 mm. (Pict )I gave to main fin ( cut from the 8 mm plywood )   a little " hydrodynamic" shape and then soaked acetone diluted epoxy. To the fin comes to attach a lead bulb from two half lead castings about 3 kg together.
In early August 2015 I started to glue parts of the back cabin and the cargo hatch covers again from 3 mm plywood. After sticking directly at their places on the model I have these parts again soaked with epoxy. ( following pict.)
I have cut a skylight from 0.8 mm air plywood . First I stuck the rim from skewers 3x3 mm around the hole for a skylight . I stuck to them side pieces and then a roof with windows up to them .
Like the skylight I glued companionway. First, I stuck the rim from skewers 4x4 mm and to it side panels of 4 mm mahogany veneer. Veneer was crudely cut, so I had first grind the veneer to a thickness of 3 mm. It was not until after that I could cut side panels and front part from veneer.
I stuck the same rim at the rear of the the cabin roof. To this rim will be stick the cover of the rudder head and rudder connecting rods
Large cargo hatch I covered with 1mm balsa sheets , from the bottom I have reinforced the cover   adding ribs from balsa (4x4 mm). On both covers (fore and main) I glued then a firstly green ,but at the end brown cloth , simulating heavy canvas (brezent fabric - as says my friend Zdenek (a former naval officer)

To control the mainsail sheets , I bought a 6-turn SW5513-4MA sailwinch servo (by Hobby King) with drum and fastened it to the base. Auxiliary silon cord I stretched between two pulleys, one fixed , the other suspended in an aluminum holder of U profiles . It w fixed at a runner on a steel rod from which will lead sheets aboard to the runner of mainsail .< servo reel I did using servotester .. This seems the most important thing for setting the servos in the model, which would otherwise have to do with switched RC apparatus and even with the possibility of damage to the servo.
Nevertheless, to control the sheets of the mainsail, I recommend using a lever servo, as Peter Simmonds advised me when building next barge model .
The mizzen sail was to be controlled by both servos and depending on the position of the mainsail by a transmitter mix as recommended by Mr Ivor Bittle. This should help improve the controllability of the model.
Still, I finally had to go for a simpler design,there was little space for everything, and the sheets of the mizzen sail are mounted directly on the rudder blade now, as usual in the tsb models.
The next step was making a base for servo sheets for foresail,and jib sails located under the front cargo hatch.
As the last was making a base for the servo control for "vangs" , located in the main hatch .
Last picture - recommended> Peter Simmonds lever servos for main sheet and vangs in Veronica model.

Stern cabin

The entire rear superstructure, except companionway cover and steering mechanism I painted with filler, sanded and painted a color - gray roof and sides tan ..
I then made the lower deadeye forging for mizzen sail of the Cu sheet thickness of 0.3 mm, soldered an eye and riveted to the sides of the superstructure and then painted green.
Both tabernacles I finally painted green acrylic paint after sanding , rear mizzen tabernacle I screwed to the roof of the back cabin.
At the main mast tabernacle I attached the winch with two axes with conical coils connected by gears.
In a similar way, I made a bracket from Cuprextit 1 mm for foot of bowsprit, which must allow the lifting it at least to the stem level nearly perpendicular to the surface.
Again, painted green.
Forging for the lower deadeyes and shrouds were made out of copper strips 0,4 mm thick. Then were shaped eyes on them and soldered . Fairleads I made from copper wire Ø1,6mm which were shaped like ears and soldered on Fiberglass copper coated base (Cuprextit).

Mainsail and Vangs Sheet lead, Horses

To deck forward of the back cabin I gradually drilled 3 holes Ø 4,2mm. Through these holes I stretched and stuck Bowden tubes so that it protrudes about 15 mm above the deck. These then lead sheets from servos to mainsail and vangs
Before the tubes is placed the main horse made by from wooden log with a diameter of 8 mm, after which it moves mainsail runner . Round timber is formed in double slight arc and fixed by metal clamps to wooden consoles. These consoles are glued and riveted to the rear deck about 4 mm from the railing ..
Before the main mast is the fore horse from 2 mm dia brass wire.
Foresail sheets are set free on it via chain loop , moving freely from one side to the other, as well as for large barges.
Jib sheets are controlled by servos located in the front cargo hatch .Through the deck are led again by using the Bowden tubes.

The Leeboards

Side fins made from aluminum sheet metal. 2 mm. I cut out sheet according to the template aligned, and roughen the outside and from the outside. I stuck gradually spruce beams 2x12mm ,according to the draft. I used for bonding the fine foam polyurethane adhesive.
After seizing I cut out protruding beams and resurfaced along the outline of Al profile
the top side of deckings I sanded with surface grinder and impregnated with epoxy diluted with acetone to a desired viscosity. (first you need is add and mix hardener, then It is also possible to use acetone or cellulose thinner C6000)
After curing, I again recut wooden surfaces and stuck cardboard strips to imitate the forging ( cardboard or thin air of plywood 1 mm thick) which I painted using nitro-email surfacer -. I drilled holes necessary for axes and shackles.
Leeboards I painted after finishing with filler, slightly resanding and re-painted the filler from both sides. And finally sprayed silver gray, like the hull.

The next step was sticking low bulwark along the entire length of the model, at a distance of about 6 mm from the edge of deck. Bulwark I made of balsa 4 x 20 -25 mm, and glued with help of plywood template to the deck.
It made me a problem bending the bulwark in two planes. I solved it by cutting incisions with handsaw to wooden strips from inside the bending. Spacing of incisions about 3 - 5 mm to about the half of the depth profile bend and sanding from the bottom side. This procedure but then requested a larger amount of putty. Balsa profile soaking into the water I could not use, because the balsa profile literally fell apart .
For reinforcement I drilled vertical holes with a diameter of 0.8 mm through the balsa bar, to which I inserted through and glued thin bamboo splinters until the holes in the deck, provided reinforcing the positions of the railing.
(I made it like Kimosuby on his model of Lady Daphne ).
After sticking I have cut openings (according to the drawing ) through the bulwark for water drainage at deck level.
I cut out the wooden posts and knees of the bow anchor winch from 5 mm maple boards and stuck on the bow in place.

In the place of mainmast shrouds fittings and bushings for the side leeboards I'm stuck reinforcements from little pine wedge 10 x 25 x 80 mm.> Pict 24
On bulwark I stuck at bow and stern increased railings, protective bowboards and quarterboards of spruce beams 2x15mm .
All parts of bulwark again I impregnate with a diluted epoxy. After hardening epoxy I sprayed hull with filler and repeated sanding both areas from outside and from the inside of bulwark . In place of passage of the leeboard pin I taped Al tubes with a diameter of 4/6 mm as bearing at deck level.

I applied a sealant and resurfaced in the area. After resealing I drilled holes Ø 5 mm beside the stem. From the starboard side I made a notch to bulwark for the bowsprit ,at the port then notch for guiding the anchor chain, which at the barges, did not pass pass through classic anchor chute through deck, but was routed through the auxiliary roller (snatch block) posting usually at the port side of stem.
I stuck on the stern reinforced beam and drilled holes into it to pass the sheet of the mizzen sail . I impregnate all again with diluted epoxy, applied putty and airbrushed the filler.
I applied putty at deck several times and sprayed the filler in addition to the places where it comes to stick the front winch, bow companionway and at the end sanded the deck again
I applied putty to the entire hull couple of times , sanding it and then sprayed the filler again several times . In between tI sanded the hull repeatedly.
At the end I sprayed the hull with silver gray spray paint. Finally, they were applied different color bands - sheer strake below decks green , bulwark on the outside with black paint and the inside yellow-orange. Bowboards and quarterboards painted white and stern finally also green.
Finally, I cut out of cardboard decorative labels for the name of the ship. I impregnated it with a nitro lacquer . After drying, I wrote at it new Champion model correct name with Humbrol enamels . and these I glued at the model.
So it happened that from from that moment on the day of March 23, 2016 my model bears the the name Capricorn.

Forging

I cut the fittings for attachments and moved from Cu sheet 0.4 mm thick, 4 mm wide strips of the required length according to the drawing. . I welded eyes on them and soldered them with soft solder. Finally, I drilled the necessary Ø 0.8 mm holes in the fittings for rivets from steel pins, which will be used to rivet the individual pieces to the sides of the ship. For this operation, I made a "nailer" from thin tubes.
I made the grommets from Cuprextit* tapes, on which I soldered a U profile from Cu wire. I shaped the shackles from nickel wire Ø 1 mm on a jig.
(*cuprextit - flat grp sheet with glued Cu foil for "printed connections" in electrical engineering)
A "snatch block", i.e. a pulley for guiding the anchor chain, is attached to the fore stem on the port side. From the starboard side, at the level of the minimum draft( some say above the maximum draft line) a pulley for guiding the "bobstay" of the bow and an eye for the pulleys of the side bow stays is attached.I also attached 2 pulleys for lifting the leeboards.

Pulleys
After studying various documents, I finally decided that the pulleys should be functional for such a large model. I therefore bought most of the pulleys for the model from RB Model. At the same time, I bought several brass discs for the production of pulleys, which, as far as the design is concerned, were not in the offer, for example, triple pulleys of the fore stay of Ø 10 mm, for which I made parts from brass sheet 0.2 mm, drilled in the fixture.

I also "turned" several pulley wheels that I was missing using a hacksaw and needle files on my improvised lathe from an electric drill. It's not an ideal way, but they can still be made at least somewhat functional this way. I was the first to make the pulleys for lifting the leeboards and the pulley for the anchor chain (snatch block). Similarly, I made the discs for the double fore stay pulley of Ø 4 and 5 mm, the parts were again drilled in the fixture.
On the bought pulleys, I attached and soldered metal eyes made of Cu wire, single or double, depending on where they will be placed on the model.