Picking at the 26.
Constructed the gunnel framing.
Establishing the centerline for rough cutout of aft deck.
Looking at how cockpit sole, bulwarks, & covering boards will come together.
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Constructed the gunnel framing.
Establishing the centerline for rough cutout of aft deck.
Looking at how cockpit sole, bulwarks, & covering boards will come together.
Entire deck roughed out & dry fit. Motor has not found a home as yet. Unusual for my builds as I like to set the running gear early so I can get it in the test tank, look for leaks, & place the ballast. But since I can’t do a lot of steps to get to my power tools I’ve had to adapt.
Second difference for me with this build is the use of styrene for the topsides. I usually stick with basswood. Traditionalist or just a salty old guy? You tell me. Cutting with my super scissors made short work of a one piece cabin side.
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Entire deck roughed out & dry fit. Motor has not found a home as yet. Unusual for my builds as I like to set the running gear early so I can get it in the test tank, look for leaks, & place the ballast. But since I can’t do a lot of steps to get to my power tools I’ve had to adapt.
Second difference for me with this build is the use of styrene for the topsides. I usually stick with basswood. Traditionalist or just a salty old guy? You tell me. Cutting with my super scissors made short work of a one piece cabin side.
Gaining insight into running gear layout. The issue has always been how to install the shaft log with an oiling tube. Since the helm bulkhead & frame 2 are solid & that the log had to be longer than the space between them it couldn’t be installed from a forward position into the keel.Solution was to drill a centerline hole in both bulkheads. Then by moving the log through the #2 bulkhead toward the stem there is just enough room to slide the shaft log aft through the keel. It will be a short oiling tube but it will fit through the helm bulkhead ending up under the engine cover ( here, the clear box mock-up). At least that’s the plan.🤞
The rx will also be under the engine box. Servo to be determined.
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Gaining insight into running gear layout. The issue has always been how to install the shaft log with an oiling tube. Since the helm bulkhead & frame 2 are solid & that the log had to be longer than the space between them it couldn’t be installed from a forward position into the keel.Solution was to drill a centerline hole in both bulkheads. Then by moving the log through the #2 bulkhead toward the stem there is just enough room to slide the shaft log aft through the keel. It will be a short oiling tube but it will fit through the helm bulkhead ending up under the engine cover ( here, the clear box mock-up). At least that’s the plan.🤞
The rx will also be under the engine box. Servo to be determined.
Thank you Doug & Chris with the advice regarding how to eliminate a post made in error. I would have NEVER seen the trash bin to the left had you not pointed it out Chris. It certainly is dim at least on an iPad.
Okay, enough HOA talk over in the Forum. Working on the trunk cabin/cockpit coaming.
1 Balsa falseworks to hold things in shape &
two sides together.
2. I think the profile looks okay.
I’m working cabinets sides & gunnel width together to get the gunnels trimmed to the correct width sides set to a fair shape. Granted I’m using thin (0.040”) styrene but I find it very flimsy to work with other than for decking. We’ll see how rigid things become after I install all the bracing.
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Thank you Doug & Chris with the advice regarding how to eliminate a post made in error. I would have NEVER seen the trash bin to the left had you not pointed it out Chris. It certainly is dim at least on an iPad.
Okay, enough HOA talk over in the Forum. Working on the trunk cabin/cockpit coaming.
1 Balsa falseworks to hold things in shape &
two sides together.
2. I think the profile looks okay.
I’m working cabinets sides & gunnel width together to get the gunnels trimmed to the correct width sides set to a fair shape. Granted I’m using thin (0.040”) styrene but I find it very flimsy to work with other than for decking. We’ll see how rigid things become after I install all the bracing.
Installed & test ran the drive today.
1. A longer shaft log than I like but necessary.
2. Kept the motor mount screws loose, ran the
motor to let it do a final self alignment,
tightened the screws. Purrs like a kitten.
3. Lubrication tube location & fabrication worked
out as planned.
Shaft log is a common term ( at least in U.S.) used to describe the metal tube that supports the prop shaft. Doug & Thad sent me to the net to research its origin.
SHAFT LOG
A strengthening member fitted on the Keel, Keelson or Deadwood where the Stern tube passes through the hull. Originally a shaped
lump of timber, such logs may nowadays be made entirely of metal.
Not certain this really clarifies it. What is the stern tube? I assume it was a hole in the timber through which the prop shaft passed.
Shaft log is a common term ( at least in U.S.) used to describe the metal tube that supports the prop shaft. Doug & Thad sent me to the net to research its origin.
SHAFT LOG
A strengthening member fitted on the Keel, Keelson or Deadwood where the Stern tube passes through the hull. Originally a shaped
lump of timber, such logs may nowadays be made entirely of metal.
Not certain this really clarifies it. What is the stern tube? I assume it was a hole in the timber through which the prop shaft passed.
Well, the first time in the water not exactly a success. A serious leak immediately appeared at the point where the keel penetrates the hull. So, let the hull dry & added quite a bit more epoxy to where I thought I had already sealed.
Operation was a success; no leaks after the weighted hull sat in the water for almost two hours.
Then on to placement of ballast. Didn’t do a weight calculation just added lead fishing weights until things looked correct. 28 oz looks like it will suffice.
The test supervisor, who flew in from Baltimore nodded his approval.
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Well, the first time in the water not exactly a success. A serious leak immediately appeared at the point where the keel penetrates the hull. So, let the hull dry & added quite a bit more epoxy to where I thought I had already sealed.
Operation was a success; no leaks after the weighted hull sat in the water for almost two hours.
Then on to placement of ballast. Didn’t do a weight calculation just added lead fishing weights until things looked correct. 28 oz looks like it will suffice.
The test supervisor, who flew in from Baltimore nodded his approval.
Rudder post tack glued in place. Needs gussets or other strength members.
Rudder & skeg in place. Some tight clearances so weedy venues may be problematical.🤞
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Rudder post tack glued in place. Needs gussets or other strength members.
Rudder & skeg in place. Some tight clearances so weedy venues may be problematical.🤞
Since I don’t want to get kicked off the property that has my test pond I have to wait until the residents have mostly finished their use of the beach. That has gotten me out of sync with my usual build sequence.
I’ve been working toward cockpit templates for future construction. Photo shows a bit of how the finished cockpit will look. Cutting card stock much easier than wood or styrene. One thing becomes apparent; the engine cover box mock-up is oversized.
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Since I don’t want to get kicked off the property that has my test pond I have to wait until the residents have mostly finished their use of the beach. That has gotten me out of sync with my usual build sequence.
I’ve been working toward cockpit templates for future construction. Photo shows a bit of how the finished cockpit will look. Cutting card stock much easier than wood or styrene. One thing becomes apparent; the engine cover box mock-up is oversized.
The next gating item in my modified build sequence is the windscreen. Its exact size, shape, & location determines how I fabricate the trunk cabin roof. Specifically how much of it can be made removable to access the motor, ESC, the drive coupling. The more course mahogany grain renders it much less flexible than basswood for bending.
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The next gating item in my modified build sequence is the windscreen. Its exact size, shape, & location determines how I fabricate the trunk cabin roof. Specifically how much of it can be made removable to access the motor, ESC, the drive coupling. The more course mahogany grain renders it much less flexible than basswood for bending.
Phil,
Fortunately the pieces I am using are small in cross section so they can be bent (carefully) after a quick soaking in ammonia based window cleaner. The two side pieces are the main challenge.
The next issue is how to attach it to the hull so it is has some structural integrity to prevent it from being easily knocked off. The glazing will provide some rigidity but not to the degree that satisfies me. Haven’t thought this one through as yet.
So far a week’s work on the windscreen. Fiddly work with 18 individual pieces & more to come. Gaining on it!
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