I decided to try doing them a bit deeper so they look a bit more realistic, they look like they are a lot deeper than they are, (about 10mm in total) the water outlet is less but when they are painted black inside and out you will probably have trouble seeing them. I have not secured them yet as I want to get a coat of primer on the transom first and see if it is OK. it looks a lot better than it was, all I will do is epoxy from the rear to hold them in, but I will do that before the main coats of paint they look a lot better than the ones I put on the larger boat as they just look like portholes on the transom (I can see some changes on the other boat soon).

Rescue Ladder.
This is fitted central on the side the boat via deck tubes, they are constructed from 1.6mm brass tube and 0,8mm brass rod, I said to myself I would not make another one but... anyway the problem is drilling the steps with a 0.8mm drill and getting the holes to line up. I could not use a centre punch as it would flatten the tube so I used a three cornered Swiss file put a mark and then part opened my small vice to rest it in and went for it. The steps still require spacing then soldering and the top bent to hook over the side.
I have made some tubes to be fitted in the deck on both sides, fortunately I only need one as it normally stored in the mid well deck by the winch.

Picture one shows the ladder about to be soldered. I always try to use a jig to hold the parts as you solder. it stops the rush when things start to move about. Anyway it is now soldered and the jig can also be used to do the bends at the top by trimming the wood at the top and then bending the wire over the top, then another piece of-tube is fitted as a spacer. Clean all solder with a copper wire brush or an old hush puppy brass brush. Then a bit of 1500 wet and dry. The deck fittings where 25mm long with a 12ba brass washer soldered on and set in the deck I crimped the bottom over so water could not come in via it bit of super glue to hold temporary and I'll epoxy them when the under deck is epoxied.

As I cannot find the one fitting I had, so here we go I have made one before, but it was bigger, I made the main part from a piece of box section. There is a picture of it at the foot of the page. I decided as this was small that I would try and mechanically fix as much as possible.
So I put tabs on the side of the plates as can be seen in an extra side piece that I made. I made a jig as I normally do to hold the parts and it is soldered in one go. The bar at the top is a tube and I was able to put some rod through to keep it straight, this will also be the way to fit the bar on to it. The lower picture shows it finished but needing some mounts and a bit of fiddling and cleaning up, it may need cutting down a bit as it look a bit wide, I have already cut 2mm of the sides but I think it still looks a bit big, I have googled danforth anchor and came up with some different shapes some are quite pointed and slim so I need to find what was used at the time mid 50s, I have cut it down a bit and out a short chain as it seems they have this before the rope is fitted.

Sorry about the hold up but I have a few problems this end, I did weigh the boat and superstructure and it seems quite light.
Superstructer with some fittings 197gr and with hull 670gr so it's quite light, I'll do a trial with everything soon, as soon as it's warm I'll get some primer on it, that has been the biggest hold up as the remaining fittings have the mounts installed so wont stop the paint.

well I was able to do a few bits this weekend on the boat first time since the last post, I have started to mount the steering servo, for a long time I have used this methoud to mount servoes from my days in 12th cars, I find it is neat and makes changing a quick job, cannot stand it when people use double sided tape or just glue them in , I think they need to be secure but with a bit of play in the link,not a lot 1/16 " thats all , I also think you have to be semetrical to get equal throw .anyway hear is the mount Ill try and fit it and put a picture of that on as well I have made the rudders and link and will take a picture of that as well

well got a bit more done today , the servo is Finished. and removed so I can give the area a coat of epoxy, I am coating all the wood with a thin coat to seal it, it will also hold the ally tube that will hold the gaiter/rubber thing to keep it waterproof, anyway hear are a few pictures of today's work showing servo mounted , it is in a strange place as it was the only way I could think of mounting it without having a very long rod, these can cause radio problems as the metal to metal contact is not recommended. I also wanted to stick with a large servo so it would not go under the rear deck and I want the space between the shafts and motors for the batteries. there is a picture with a bent paint brush, this just shows how I give the underside of the decks and hull to deck joint a coat of epoxy

I have been doing some epoxying tonight , the idea is to protect the wood, the ply I used for bulkheads is light ply and it does not like water that much, nor does the birch ply I have used for the mounts as there is a lot of edges showing, so I have given it all a coat of 30min Z epoxy it will also stiffen up the lite ply as it is very soft.
Ill post a picture when is dry and I can handle it

well it was time to start fitting things in I had worked out where I was going to fit batteries , but am now not to shore.
they may need moving forward a bit so I am going to make it so they can be slid forward down the centre line of the boat, I have tried to keep the weight symmetrical if possible up to now it seems ok, the way I have placed the speed controller's will have to be changed to the sides, they where just there for a test fit to see where bits will go . I am going to use stick batteries 4.6 AH X 9.6v as they will double up for the other boat that will use two sets, anyway a couple of pictures to bring it up to date

I decided I would fit some water cooling in case I need it in future, the motors I have fitted are out-runners and people say they stay cool also the speed controllers are 50amp so they should have plenty in reserve . I wanted to fit the type that fit flush to the hull and do not get in the way of props and loose flow, this type are used by fast electric and fast IC boats and only work at speed , if it is not used it can just be linked and there is no power losse, I think they work by the water rushing past the inlet and the low pressure zone created by the hole sucks the water up if anybody knows different let me know please. anyway there are four pictures one shows the underside of the hull another is of the top of it I have used some new to me flexie epoxy the black stuff the jury is still out on it !! there is a spare inlet on the deck so you can see what it looks like. the other two pictures are the outlet one shows the transom both the two exhausts and the outlet for the generator, the inside shows the pipe I used copper as I can bend it better, going to the outlet . it enters at the bottom and so it will not squirt straight out but hopefully more of a splatter effect. I hope I will epoxy it in tomorrow when I am happy with the fit.

Well we are up to 60 posts and still not finished, the hull is not far off though , just a platform for the speed controllers and receiver to go , one of the things I anything to do is build the boat in a way that it will last, that tends to add weight though so its a trade off, the other thing is that I want to protect radio and speed controllers and the way I have fitted the superstructure that leave a problem as water may well be able to get between the deck and superstructure joint and drip on anything below I will have to make a shield for anything below the joint. I hope the boat will be fast enough to splash about. so there will be some water on the decks.
I did another mount for the batteries tonight this will allow me to slide the weight forward or back to get the best performance.