Today was another part constructed. The motor mount is built, the propeller shaft and the propeller is installed need to wait till the glue sets and then I'll glue the motor in place.
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Today was another part constructed. The motor mount is built, the propeller shaft and the propeller is installed need to wait till the glue sets and then I'll glue the motor in place.
To answer Boatshed’s question, this is the 1/35th scale version of the Vosper, by Italeri.
One thing that our friend was having a problem with was the motor as seen in his photos, was above the deck. Garth then, repositioned the motor further aft which lowered it below the deck.
It is a fun build but not without its challenges to make these kits into a RC conversion model.
Garth and I talked on the phone this past week, along with viewing photos of various elements, he was able to see my conversion.
It will be interesting to watch how he goes forward on his model.
Just as I promised, I installed the motor & rubber. The photo looks like the alignment is off, but I don't think it will matter. Tomorrow, there will be a leak test in the bathtub before my wife catches me putting water in the tub. I added two photos of the type of shaft & Prop. I upgraded the motor but used coupling stuffing box & propeller 🤣🤣
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Just as I promised, I installed the motor & rubber. The photo looks like the alignment is off, but I don't think it will matter. Tomorrow, there will be a leak test in the bathtub before my wife catches me putting water in the tub. I added two photos of the type of shaft & Prop. I upgraded the motor but used coupling stuffing box & propeller 🤣🤣
I’m glad you are NOT putting in a brushless motor, because when I bring my model along side yours, we can go out on patrol together without me chasing your wake. 🤣
We will look good providing support the bigger vessels of the fleet!
I want to thank Ron for his help with my Vosper build. The one thing I need to do is find a way to change out the battery pack, and the size I'll need to make a section that can be removed to change out the battery. I will use a 6-pack AA-NMH 3000 milliamp-hour rated batteries to keep the weight down.I also want to emphasize that members of the website can be very helpful.
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I want to thank Ron for his help with my Vosper build. The one thing I need to do is find a way to change out the battery pack, and the size I'll need to make a section that can be removed to change out the battery. I will use a 6-pack AA-NMH 3000 milliamp-hour rated batteries to keep the weight down.I also want to emphasize that members of the website can be very helpful.
I've been using a lot of brain power to figure out how to change out the battery on the Vosper model that wasn't designed for R/C Only thing possible was to make a hole in the deck, then make it so it can be taken off so that's why I will use 2, 6-32 bolts & nuts to hold the cabin down.I also hate clear windows that need gluing in place.And I know now why I stopped making plastic model cars it' because my fingerprints end up on the model.P/S I really wish Jolly Red Guy had given the Vosper Perkasa.I like its design. The torpedoe tubes will hide the nuts.
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I've been using a lot of brain power to figure out how to change out the battery on the Vosper model that wasn't designed for R/C Only thing possible was to make a hole in the deck, then make it so it can be taken off so that's why I will use 2, 6-32 bolts & nuts to hold the cabin down.I also hate clear windows that need gluing in place.And I know now why I stopped making plastic model cars it' because my fingerprints end up on the model.P/S I really wish Jolly Red Guy had given the Vosper Perkasa.I like its design. The torpedoe tubes will hide the nuts.
Doing a fine job Garth. Yes the torpedo tubes will hide the nuts. I see you went for a different battery.
I still don’t like the way you chose to put your receiver and ESC in the bow under the deck.
It is s easy to place them in your well of the wheelhouse. I know from our conversation this week that you are not going to be detailing it as I did. So, why not use the space?
Hi Garth.
Lovely model, you are doing a great job.
You said originly that you wasn using a 6-pack AA-NMH 3000 milliamp battery pack to keep the weight down.
I see that you now have a Hobby Hub 3500MAH 7.2 battery pack in her.
Isnt that going to be a lot heavier.
Have you done a water tub test with that in her?
Could you not use a small LiPo 7.2v or even a 11.4v pack they are a
lot lighter and a lot smaller than the Hobby Hub 7.2v battery pack.
Changed a little bit the installation area for the Flysky receiver, and installed speed control in a new area also. The next step have to find a plase for on off switch.
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Changed a little bit the installation area for the Flysky receiver, and installed speed control in a new area also. The next step have to find a plase for on off switch.
Had some of these switches, so used one on the Vosper very tiny P/B for on & off.No insult to Ron, but as
Frank Sinatra sang it I did it my way.⛵
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I was having a hard time trying to find a way to protect the receiver from water damage. Then a light bulb popped in my brain, just use a bottle that you have used in other models. So the photo shows the red-taped bottle that has my Fly Sky Receiver
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I was having a hard time trying to find a way to protect the receiver from water damage. Then a light bulb popped in my brain, just use a bottle that you have used in other models. So the photo shows the red-taped bottle that has my Fly Sky Receiver
I like your way of trying to keep your receiver water tight.
But you could also save wieght by using either a Durex which will go over the receiver easy or
you could use a balloon but you struggle to sometimes get them over the receiver.
But both ways they are a lot lighter than a plastic bottle.
The Durex has worked well in the past for me when I have been running a glow engined flattie hulled boat in the past for keeping the reciever safe when we have been racing each other and possibly turing upside down.
This was a tip given to me way back in the early 70's.
I am trying to take in mind thatnthis is a light weight plastic model in the first place and water displacement is in mind on the water line of the model.
It's been too cold to go out, so more work is being done in my cold basement on the Vosper almost completed; just a few tiny parts need to be installed. The model isn't that well done. I'm a Poor painter, and a few small parts were not added because I kept dropping the tiny parts and they would disappear into the Twilight Zone.
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It's been too cold to go out, so more work is being done in my cold basement on the Vosper almost completed; just a few tiny parts need to be installed. The model isn't that well done. I'm a Poor painter, and a few small parts were not added because I kept dropping the tiny parts and they would disappear into the Twilight Zone.
I have been thinking about the drive train on my latest build .It wasn't going to work because the the stuffing box was only 2.6 MM Prop shaft was 1.8 MM & the prop blade was 30MM and it was a press on fitting .So I upgraded to a larger Stuffing box 9MM Shaft upgraded to 3.8 MM & prop 35 mm #1 upgraded #2 original style.
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I have been thinking about the drive train on my latest build .It wasn't going to work because the the stuffing box was only 2.6 MM Prop shaft was 1.8 MM & the prop blade was 30MM and it was a press on fitting .So I upgraded to a larger Stuffing box 9MM Shaft upgraded to 3.8 MM & prop 35 mm #1 upgraded #2 original style.
Change the drive to a larger 9mm stuffing box with a 3.8mm shaft that is bolted onto the shaft. Additionally, upgrade to a new 2-blade propeller, measuring 3.5mm. The original prop shaft used a press-on style propeller, which may have come loose while in use.
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Change the drive to a larger 9mm stuffing box with a 3.8mm shaft that is bolted onto the shaft. Additionally, upgrade to a new 2-blade propeller, measuring 3.5mm. The original prop shaft used a press-on style propeller, which may have come loose while in use.
what make is the Vosper model that uou are putting together and installing radio control into?
One thing that our friend was having a problem with was the motor as seen in his photos, was above the deck. Garth then, repositioned the motor further aft which lowered it below the deck.
It is a fun build but not without its challenges to make these kits into a RC conversion model.
Garth and I talked on the phone this past week, along with viewing photos of various elements, he was able to see my conversion.
It will be interesting to watch how he goes forward on his model.