PILOT HOUSE DETAILS
Wheel Stand
I started with the wheel stand, following the blueprints closely.

The side supports were cut and shaped, then assembled to form the stand structure.

The base was added to keep everything aligned and square.
Ship’s Wheel Installation.

The wheel was painted separately to achieve a clean finish.
Once dry, it was installed onto the stand and secured in place.
Final touch-ups were done after assembly.

Interior Details
The other items inside the pilot house include a bench and a small map cabinet.

These were built separately and test-fitted before installation.
Finishing Before Installation.

Before adding any interior components, I stained and sealed the walls and deck.
This step is important to avoid staining around already installed parts.

Final Assembly
Once everything was fully dry, I proceeded to install and position all interior details.
Adjustments were made as needed to ensure a proper fit.

Final Result
This is how everything came together inside the pilot house.
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STACK BUILD-UP AND DETAILS

Did a bit of extra work on the base of the stack, adding some detail not included in the kit instructions.

Step by step:
1. Cut two rings from 1/16" scrap, approx. 2 1/4" diameter (one for the top flange and one for the base).
2. Built up the inner stack base:
3. Added small 1/8" square braces inside the lower section
These act as supports for the upper stack section.
4. Glued the upper ring in place on top of the lower section, forming the first flange
5. For the bottom (the part that sits on the deck):
Added a wider base ring from 1/16" scrap
6. This gives a more solid and realistic footing
Cleaned everything up with light sanding to blend the layers together

Adding detail:

7. Marked out equal spacing around the flange
8. Used squared toothpicks to create bolt/nut details
9. Trimmed and glued them evenly around both rings

Finishing:

10. Sprayed the whole assembly with flat black primer
11. Sealed with semi-gloss clear
12. Light dry-brushing using black and a touch of brass to bring out the detail

Final touch:

13. Stack hold-downs will be rigged using the chain supplied in the kit.
Quite a straightforward mod, but it really improves the look of the base and gives it a bit more presence. 👍

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THE TINY SKY LIGHT

Next up, the tiny skylight.
This little blighter gave me a proper headache… mainly due to its size.

Everything is made from 3/32" basswood, so there’s very little room for error and it doesn’t take much to throw things out of square.

1. I started by cutting all the individual frame pieces, making sure the angles matched so everything would come together cleanly. Each piece was then drilled to accept the vertical supports.
2. The uprights were made from small brass rod, which not only adds a bit of strength but also gives a nicer, more refined look compared to wood at this scale.
3. Once all parts were prepared, I assembled the lower frame first, inserted the uprights, and then carefully aligned and glued the top frame in place. Definitely a job where a steady hand (and a bit of patience) pays off.
T4. o finish it off, I added some small detailing on the top to represent fixings/bolts, just to give it a bit more character.
It may be a tiny part, but once in place it adds a nice touch of detail to the deck.
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THE LIFEBOAT
Next up, the lifeboat.

This is a vacuum-formed piece supplied with the kit. The first job was to carefully cut the basic shape free from the excess plastic using a sharp knife. Take your time here, as the plastic is quite thin and easy to damage.

Step 1 – Cleaning up the hull
Once removed, I trimmed and cleaned the edges until I had a nice, even outline all around.

Step 2 – Ridge pole
The ridge pole was made from a scrap strip of 1/16" x 1/4", shaped to match the contour of the lifeboat. This gives the canvas cover a more realistic profile once fitted.

Step 3 – Canvas cover (masking tape method)
Following the instructions, I used 2" masking tape for the canvas cover — first time trying this method, and I must say it worked out quite well.

I started by laying down two strips of tape, adhesive side up.
Then I placed the lifeboat upside down onto the glued surface.
The edges were folded over, gently stretching the tape to conform to the shape — but not too much, as the plastic hull is quite thin.

Step 4 – Edges and border
I then trimmed the tape along the edges, leaving roughly 1/8" to form a border. This could also be done by adding a separate 1/8" strip, but trimming worked fine in this case.

Step 5 – Tie-down details
To simulate the canvas tie-downs, I cut small triangular pieces of tape and added them along the sides.
In the early photos you’ll see three per side, but I later corrected this to four for a better look.

Step 6 – Lifeboat supports
The kit-supplied supports didn’t quite look right to me, so I made my own cradle to better fit the hull and sit properly on the deck.

Overall, a simple part, but with a bit of extra work it turns into a nice little feature.
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LIFEBOAT DAVITS
Next up are the lifeboat davits.

Step 1 – Preparing the brass tubes
I used the 3/32" brass tubes supplied with the kit. Before bending them, I inserted a solid 1/16" brass rod inside each tube.
This was cut long enough to leave about a 3/16" gap at the tip, which allows room to later fit an eyebolt.

Step 2 – Davit bases
For the bases, I picked up four small plastic flanges (3/16" I.D.) from my local hardware store.
The openings were slightly too large, so I made some simple aluminium sleeves to take up the slack and give a snug fit.

Step 3 – Bending the davits
To bend the tubes, I used a small spring-type tube bender I had tucked away in one of my drawers.
This worked quite well and helped avoid kinks in the brass.

Step 4 – Installation
Once shaped, the davits were installed onto the top deck.
At this stage, I was quite happy with how they turned out.

Step 5 – Adding hooks/cleats
After gluing them in place, I realised I needed something to secure the cable ends.
So I made a few simple hooks/cleats from 3/16" brass rod, bent upwards and glued to the sides.

In hindsight, these would have been much stronger (and cleaner) if I had soldered them before installation.

Step 6 – Additional detail
The lattice work at the aft end of the upper deck is an extra detail I added after seeing it on another build.
It’s not part of the kit, but it fills that area nicely and improves the overall look.
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GALLEY STACK

Next up is the galley stack.
The main body was made from the 1/4" wooden dowel supplied with the kit, but I decided to add a small twist to improve the overall look using some leftover .010 brass sheet.

Step 1 – Painting the stack
The dowel was first sprayed with flat black.
Once dry, I sealed it with a semi-gloss clear coat to give it a more realistic finish.

Step 2 – Adding the top detail
After everything had cured, I cut three small pieces of 1/16" brass rod.
These were evenly spaced and glued around the top of the stack to represent the supports for the cap.

Step 3 – Making the cap
From a scrap piece of .010 brass sheet, I cut and shaped a small conical cap.
This was then fitted on top of the stack, resting on the three brass supports.

Step 4 – Final assembly
With everything in place, the stack was installed next to the galley area.
It’s a simple addition, but the brass cap and supports give it a much more refined and scale appearance.
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Steering Servo Covers, Davits and Stern Grating.

Moving along, I worked on the steering servo covers, the davits, and the stern grating.

The servo covers were made from 1/16" x 1/4" planking stock.
Simple parts, but they add a nice bit of structure to the deck once in place.

For the davits, I followed the plans closely this time.
They are made from 3/32" stock material and shaped according to the blueprints.

The stern grating was built up from strip wood, taking care to keep the spacing even throughout.
Once assembled, I gave it a light sanding, then applied stain and sealed it before installation.
After fitting everything in place, the whole area starts to look much more complete and in scale.
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Companionway

For the companionway, I started by laminating two pieces of 1/8" ply using a light coat of spray adhesive. This allowed me to work both sides together and keep everything perfectly symmetrical while shaping.

Once glued, I marked out the steps directly on the sides and carefully cut the profile. After separating the two pieces, I had a matching pair ready to assemble.

The side panels were then planked to match the rest of the deck detail, which helps it blend in nicely with the surrounding structure.

For the treads, I cut individual steps and installed them one by one, making sure the spacing stayed even all the way up.

After assembly, I sanded everything smooth, then painted the sides white and finished the steps in a darker wood tone for contrast.

Finally, the companionway was test-fitted and installed in position, tying it nicely into the deck layout.
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MAST, BOOM (DERRICKS) AND RIGGING:

I usually taper the mast using a powered drill, checking it constantly against the blueprints as I go.
Before starting, I wrap the end with masking tape so the drill chuck won’t leave any marks on the wood. I begin shaping with 80 grit sandpaper and then work my way down to 220 grit for a smooth finish.

The forward mast gets a ring around it. The old Seguin instructions suggest using paper wrapped around the mast, but instead I used styrene strips for a cleaner and more solid result.

Both the forward and aft masts receive three cleats along with the required hardware. I added these using small brass pieces and fittings to give it a more realistic look.

From there, I moved on to the booms (derricks), adding the end fittings and brackets, making sure everything lines up properly before moving into the rigging stage.

If you want to build this model as R/C, you will need to use an elastic material for the rigging on both the forward and aft masts so the upper structure can be removable.
I used a black elastic thread, and when stretched over the hooks on the masts, it looks just like black rope while still allowing flexibility.

Finally, I completed the rigging, keeping it simple and following the plans closely, making small adjustments to get a natural look and proper tension.
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Ship’s Name

The ship’s name is provided in the kit as a printed and laminated vinyl sticker.
It should be applied to a thin substrate (I used a leftover piece of wood) before installing it on the hull.
This gives it a bit more depth and a cleaner finish rather than applying it directly.

Thank you all for taking the time to follow along, and especially to those who left very positive comments.

I hope this build log gives a good overall idea of how to approach this model and can be helpful to anyone planning to build it.
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