Hello, whilst I was mooching about and pondering as to what to take up next, The Telectra plan fell down onto the worktop, so I took this as an omen lol.. But the first thing was to try and cure a previous disaster with the worktop, originally from an ex GPO communications/Teleprinter Table.
Served we well as a build board with the bonus of being plastic coated one side, it was Block board about 1" thick. So next job was a new worktop, definatly not blockboard, too expensive, but ply 19mm was a good replacement. Next Item varnish or seal the working surface, this helps to stop the glues sticking to the top. Must admit after a couple of coats of varnish it looked to good for a worktop, but hey ho ... Next thought was the cutting of Balsa wood, hmmm, another expensive trip out for a new A1 size cutting mat.. Then finally let the dog see the rabbit, or the scapal see the wood.. Restudy the plan and decide what the build was going to be a standard 30" or another stretched version at 36". The later won, found the old tracings of keel and bulkheads on draft film and presented the balsa to the worktop via the new cutting mat and we were off.. First job Butt join two pieces of 4" by 36" together, plus another 2 pieces of 1/2" wide 1/4" balsa to the external edges this gave a total of about 9", the Beam of the boat. When this is cured, usually an overnight job, the hull deck outline is presented to the deck and traced onto the wood. My personal method is to use a dentist pricker to mark through the trace into the wood, then join up the dots on the wood all good fun. Followed by the cutting out of the outline of the balsa deck. The Keel is approached and cut in the same manner.
Regards Muddy
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Hello, whilst I was mooching about and pondering as to what to take up next, The Telectra plan fell down onto the worktop, so I took this as an omen lol.. But the first thing was to try and cure a previous disaster with the worktop, originally from an ex GPO communications/Teleprinter Table.
Served we well as a build board with the bonus of being plastic coated one side, it was Block board about 1" thick. So next job was a new worktop, definatly not blockboard, too expensive, but ply 19mm was a good replacement. Next Item varnish or seal the working surface, this helps to stop the glues sticking to the top. Must admit after a couple of coats of varnish it looked to good for a worktop, but hey ho ... Next thought was the cutting of Balsa wood, hmmm, another expensive trip out for a new A1 size cutting mat.. Then finally let the dog see the rabbit, or the scapal see the wood.. Restudy the plan and decide what the build was going to be a standard 30" or another stretched version at 36". The later won, found the old tracings of keel and bulkheads on draft film and presented the balsa to the worktop via the new cutting mat and we were off.. First job Butt join two pieces of 4" by 36" together, plus another 2 pieces of 1/2" wide 1/4" balsa to the external edges this gave a total of about 9", the Beam of the boat. When this is cured, usually an overnight job, the hull deck outline is presented to the deck and traced onto the wood. My personal method is to use a dentist pricker to mark through the trace into the wood, then join up the dots on the wood all good fun. Followed by the cutting out of the outline of the balsa deck. The Keel is approached and cut in the same manner.
Regards Muddy
Telectra is one of my bucket list builds for the future - I have the plan in my stash, so looking forward to enviously following your build - might motivate me to do a bit more on my Vivacity, but grand-daughters dolls house is soaking up all my spare time at present.
Hello Muddy I also do a lot of mooching... yes that's why I have five projects on the go at the same time
Two Boats
One Horsedrawn London Omnibus
One 1912 Type B Truck ( same as the motor Omnibus)
and a PinHole camera Col
Keel, Again Butt Joint 1/4" Balsa to make up length and width for the keel. This is where the old wood top came to its end, the top surface was to uneven and lumpy, my fault i left a previous build overnight must have been Cyno/Superglue stuff so had to cut away the job/workpiece which left big scar's and missing plastic from the surface, urghhh. A New Ply 19mm 4' x 2' obtained, varnished followed by a bigger replacement Cutting matt, just a note most add's for a size A1 matt was about £32, but I found one on the well known website we all love and hate for £12, it has so far served its purpose. The next step joining up of the two major surfaces the Deck to the Keel, things need to be flat and square to the vertical, another overnight drying off period.... Next Job mark out all the Bulkheads/formers.. Another note - keep your old batterys, but not if they leak. Ideal as weight keeping things flat and square on an overnight glue up.. ATB Muddy
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Marked BulkheadsTransfer/tracing bulkheadsAccessing new worktopTrying to maintain a flat joint with weights supplied by old batteries, or new ones
Marked BulkheadsNew worktop, varnishedNew Cutting Matt
Keel, Again Butt Joint 1/4" Balsa to make up length and width for the keel. This is where the old wood top came to its end, the top surface was to uneven and lumpy, my fault i left a previous build overnight must have been Cyno/Superglue stuff so had to cut away the job/workpiece which left big scar's and missing plastic from the surface, urghhh. A New Ply 19mm 4' x 2' obtained, varnished followed by a bigger replacement Cutting matt, just a note most add's for a size A1 matt was about £32, but I found one on the well known website we all love and hate for £12, it has so far served its purpose. The next step joining up of the two major surfaces the Deck to the Keel, things need to be flat and square to the vertical, another overnight drying off period.... Next Job mark out all the Bulkheads/formers.. Another note - keep your old batterys, but not if they leak. Ideal as weight keeping things flat and square on an overnight glue up.. ATB Muddy
Two Boats
One Horsedrawn London Omnibus
One 1912 Type B Truck ( same as the motor Omnibus)
and a PinHole camera Col