The build actually started over four years ago and is documented on another forum. I've added some pics that indicate the current state of the build, and will update as it progresses. As mentioned in my 'Harbour' entry this is basically a scratch build of a doubling of the 1/10th Amati Kit Aquarama plans. The hull is complete, the running gear installed and tested this year. Only change has been a slightly coarser pitched set of propellers as the motors were not being loaded up very much at all. Electronics development and integration is ongoing, the various systems are all working on the bench, some required for running such as water pump and hull ventilation are integrated. There is an aim for functional and aesthetic authenticity running through the build. I think there a couple of years ahead to get the electronics / upholstery / fittings / functionality sorted... But I aim to have the boat out and about to enjoy it while that work continues.
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Current Overall StateESC CaseVibration Motor and ESC Case
Dual Vaporiser CaseLiPo bay between Electronics CasesStbd Electronics CasePort Electronics Case
The build actually started over four years ago and is documented on another forum. I've added some pics that indicate the current state of the build, and will update as it progresses. As mentioned in my 'Harbour' entry this is basically a scratch build of a doubling of the 1/10th Amati Kit Aquarama plans. The hull is complete, the running gear installed and tested this year. Only change has been a slightly coarser pitched set of propellers as the motors were not being loaded up very much at all. Electronics development and integration is ongoing, the various systems are all working on the bench, some required for running such as water pump and hull ventilation are integrated. There is an aim for functional and aesthetic authenticity running through the build. I think there a couple of years ahead to get the electronics / upholstery / fittings / functionality sorted... But I aim to have the boat out and about to enjoy it while that work continues.
Been busy producing some deck fittings at the moment, these are all to be in brass and will be chromed in a batch when they're all ready. The Aquarama has two small cleats per side (so four total) plus a larger cleat mounted centrally on the bow. These have been silver soldered, cleaned up and have had a first polish. So far so good... Also produced the fittings to attach a midships fender, just the one per side. These have been machined from solid square section brass. Final polishing will be closer to chroming. 😀
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Been busy producing some deck fittings at the moment, these are all to be in brass and will be chromed in a batch when they're all ready. The Aquarama has two small cleats per side (so four total) plus a larger cleat mounted centrally on the bow. These have been silver soldered, cleaned up and have had a first polish. So far so good... Also produced the fittings to attach a midships fender, just the one per side. These have been machined from solid square section brass. Final polishing will be closer to chroming. 😀
Fenders have come on a little... I've ordered some turquoise microfleece towelling to make up some socks for them. Maybe a Riva logo embroidered in but need to persuade my wife e that she 'needs' a sewing machine that can embroider... Also been busy with the Cutwater up at the bow, this is made up from two laser cut sections of 1mm brass. This is the second attempt, I melted the first... But am pleased that it's worked out this time around, it's being finished and will be polished ready for chroming. Also started working on the steering wheel, this is quite a statement piece on the real boat so at this scale should allow plenty of detailing. At the moment I have the rim in 3mm brass rod and early version of the 'shells' that will cover the lower part of the wheel. Next up will be to machine the hub and make up the spokes. Also starting to figure out how to approach fabricating the stern fairleads.
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Fenders in progressFender on the hullCutwater joint
Cutwater in placeCutwater in placeStart of the steering wheel
Fenders have come on a little... I've ordered some turquoise microfleece towelling to make up some socks for them. Maybe a Riva logo embroidered in but need to persuade my wife e that she 'needs' a sewing machine that can embroider... Also been busy with the Cutwater up at the bow, this is made up from two laser cut sections of 1mm brass. This is the second attempt, I melted the first... But am pleased that it's worked out this time around, it's being finished and will be polished ready for chroming. Also started working on the steering wheel, this is quite a statement piece on the real boat so at this scale should allow plenty of detailing. At the moment I have the rim in 3mm brass rod and early version of the 'shells' that will cover the lower part of the wheel. Next up will be to machine the hub and make up the spokes. Also starting to figure out how to approach fabricating the stern fairleads.
@AlessandroSPQR Hi Alessandro, thanks for that. I spent a lot of time getting the hull built, it took a couple of years, and now it's very rewarding to see the mahogany and varnish show off the curves of the beautiful Italian Aquarama..!
@DJW Your model is going to be absolutely amazing! I've built the Amati plank on frame version of this beautiful craft. I spent just over 2 years building her so I can't imagine how long it is taking yourself to build this scratch built super detailed model. Very well done! Looking forward to seeing the end result and also her being launched! I poured a small bottle of bubbly over the bow of my 'Truly' when I launched her! 🙂👍
Afternoon All. I've been creating 3D printed versions of the wheel for a while, it helps me get an idea of how I can construct in brass. This also allows 'guides' to be produced on the 3D printer that help maintain the worked out geometry, angles and hole positions and so on. So now the build is in progress, I've machined the hub from 20mm brass bar and what would you call the mating part on the dashboard...? I'll call it the 'boss' until corrected... 🤔 See images 1 and 2. The steering wheel (SW) will move with the rudders, the SW servo can be seen in image 3 and drives the wheel via a 3mm brass shaft directly aligned with the servo output. The servo is normally mounted in the cabin.
Image 4 shows one of the 3D printed drill guides, the holes have to be 5 degrees toward the driver, and at 160 degrees apart. Flats on the flanks to fit nicely in the vice.
Images 5 and 6 show a similar guide printed to clip onto the rim and place the shallow drill indents in the right place.
In Image 7 you can see the 14mm white insert with ribs and propeller that will be eventually resin printed, painted appropriately.
The above drilling is now all done and ready to silver solder together. The spokes at the moment are 2mm brass rod, but this is just for positioning the various parts really, the main spokes are being made from 0.7mm brass sheet, folded over the 2mm rods and shaped to fit the hub and the rim. Think 1950's Cadillac style... See images 8 and 9 for what I'm trying to build.
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Fitting SW hub to the dashboardSW Hub in positionSW Rim in 3mm Brass with 3D printed lower 'shells'
Guide for drilling SW spokes into hubSnap on hole guideDrilling through 3D guide to seat spokes in rim
Test print for hub insertThe real wheel...The real hub...
Afternoon All. I've been creating 3D printed versions of the wheel for a while, it helps me get an idea of how I can construct in brass. This also allows 'guides' to be produced on the 3D printer that help maintain the worked out geometry, angles and hole positions and so on. So now the build is in progress, I've machined the hub from 20mm brass bar and what would you call the mating part on the dashboard...? I'll call it the 'boss' until corrected... 🤔 See images 1 and 2. The steering wheel (SW) will move with the rudders, the SW servo can be seen in image 3 and drives the wheel via a 3mm brass shaft directly aligned with the servo output. The servo is normally mounted in the cabin.
Image 4 shows one of the 3D printed drill guides, the holes have to be 5 degrees toward the driver, and at 160 degrees apart. Flats on the flanks to fit nicely in the vice.
Images 5 and 6 show a similar guide printed to clip onto the rim and place the shallow drill indents in the right place.
In Image 7 you can see the 14mm white insert with ribs and propeller that will be eventually resin printed, painted appropriately.
The above drilling is now all done and ready to silver solder together. The spokes at the moment are 2mm brass rod, but this is just for positioning the various parts really, the main spokes are being made from 0.7mm brass sheet, folded over the 2mm rods and shaped to fit the hub and the rim. Think 1950's Cadillac style... See images 8 and 9 for what I'm trying to build.
@ChrisF Strange you mention that... Two of these bad boys en route for delivery for testing.... 😀 The Riva already has a trailer, to get to the lakeside, I'm thinking two arms (4040 Aluminium extrusions, 1.4m), up and over, like a skip lorry. Then a winch to launch and recover. How difficult can it be... 🤣
@AlessandroSPQR Thanks Alessandro, and yes, that's my main use for my FDM printer, I use a Creality K1C, amazing machine. It helps me test out what I need, get sizes correct and so on before trying it in metal. The biggest help was with the motor mounts and drive parts, it took many iterations from the 3D printer before I had a viable design. Then start with the aluminium.
Silver Soldering. Its so much stronger for structural parts, I use it exclusively for parts that will then be chrome plated. I do tell the platers that I've used Silver solder as I believe it influences how they pre treat the parts. It's a little more involved than soft soldering but I wouldn't say you need a full workshop, it's not like welding for example. I use several torches ranging from a 'pen' type for small parts, to a MAPP gas blowtorch for larger parts. I then have several firebricks that I bring out when soldering to protect my bench, plus some metal clamps to hold work. It's then down to using correct flux, rods and cleaning solution (to remove the flux after soldering). Then it's files to remove any excess, I use 600 grit paper to then blend the solder with the brass ready for polishing. Once you have the tools and some experience with the technique it's quite a fast process. Silver solder works and flows by capillary action on a joint, so the joints have to be good in the first place, it doesn't 'fill' very well. Another tricky aspect is when a part needs to be soldered several times for different joints, you have to be careful not to melt the previous joint..! I've melted plenty of pieces, at some point its down to experience and how often you use the equipment.
FluxClampMAPP Torch and FirebricksCleaning SolutionCleaning SolutionRodsMount and Cooling plate in Aluminium3D printed cooling plateMount in plastic and aluminium
