Seaplane Tender

Started by Police Boat Captain

15 updates 15 likes 3 comments 0 followers

Cabin Windows and Roof

The next job was to cut out all 16 windows and build the cabin roofs and attatch the hand rails. The fitting are white metal with a brass wire going through them.

I cut the cabin windows out using a stanley knife and file. All 16 windows took a few hours but the result was worth it.

The cabin roofs were also built but not glued on and the hand rails were added.
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Fittings, Lights and Mast

I decided that the boat needed some lights so I drilled out the searchlight and put a bulb inside it, there is also a light inside the cabin and on the back of the boat. The boat looks great going around the lake at night.

The mast is made from wood and was painted with Plastikote. All of the fittings are made from white metal and were included in the kit.

Althought it was my first model boat kit I'm really pleased with it.
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Water Cooling

I couldnt find a water scoop small enough anywhere so I made one from scrap plastic. I also made a water cooling coil from silicon tubing. A boating friend made me a brass water outlet.
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Seaplane Tender

The plastic cooling coil wasnt very effective so I soldered some pieces of brass tube to a motor heatsink to make a new water cooling coil.
2 comments
  1. chrislang
    Warrant Officer
    Hi
    Just revisiting your blog as my 1/16th scale Adamcraft Seaplane tender has it's Vision 600 motor running quite hot, so I was wondering about water cooling and adapting your sort of set up. I've found a Robbe aluminium cooling coil to fit the motor but was wondering where you had sited your inlet scoop and outlet for best performance. I must mention that my Deans marine 1/24 Seaplane tender runs fairy cool on a JP 400 motor with 6v ni-cad pack.

    Best wishes
    Chris
  2. Police Boat Captain
    Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class
    Orginaly I had a scoop in-line with the prop but on the left of the hull. (see the photo below) This wasn't very effective and pulled the boat to one side. I modified this by moving the rudder back about 10mm and fitted a piece of curved acrylic tube between the prop and rudder to pick up the water. I think as long as you fit the scoop behind the prop in the flow of water, it should work well. The outlet is on the side of the hull, it would work just as well on the back.

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