Ive now installed the engine sound module, now that I have finaly managed it to voltage sense off the robbe motors. Ive also installed a "tug air horn", sounds a bit like an american diesel train horn, but will certanly be heard when across the water!
All the navigation and blue/red emergency lights function, the searchlight along with power supply to the main water pump for the water monitors.
ive wired them to a switch panel for now [as a temporary measure] as Im awaiting an electronise 4 switcher module, to enable me to use one joystick lever to operate all the light/sound systems.
The radar is powered and has its own seperate switch [just for simplicity].
All lights are "led's" so battery drain is minimal, leaving more juice to keep it afloat on the water for longer. the main motors and reciever pack run off the same battery, so less to swap when it does go flat, having to now only swap one battery instead of 3.
Wiring time.
Ive now installed the engine sound module, now that I have finaly managed it to voltage sense off the robbe motors. Ive also installed a "tug air horn", sounds a bit like an american diesel train horn, but will certanly be heard when across the water!
All the navigation and blue/red emergency lights function, the searchlight along with power supply to the main water pump for the water monitors.
ive wired them to a switch panel for now [as a temporary measure] as Im awaiting an electronise 4 switcher module, to enable me to use one joystick lever to operate all the light/sound systems.
The radar is powered and has its own seperate switch [just for simplicity].
All lights are "led's" so battery drain is minimal, leaving more juice to keep it afloat on the water for longer. the main motors and reciever pack run off the same battery, so less to swap when it does go flat, having to now only swap one battery instead of 3.
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Sorry not been updating this for a while, but I had to wait for some rudder arms from Robbe, plus some more electronic switchgear [which still hasnt arrived - well done Electronise!].
I had a problem with the original rudder arms, in so much as due to their age, plus the boat had originally suffered from a water leak in the hull, the rudder arms had corroded badly and I was unable to remove the locking bolts from the rudder posts, enebling me to replace the rudder post seals and re lubricate the rudder shafts.
So after a few weeks patience, replacement rudder arms arrived and I was able to do the task in hand.
One item of electronice I have found very useful, is a "servo tester", simply plug the servo lead you wish to "test" in one side and plug a reciever battery pack in the other. "Hey presto!" you can now individually test a servo, without having to power up the whole system, so for something like setting up the rudder arc's, this operation is oh so simple and easy to do, without having to use the transmitter [or its batteries], leaves more space on the work bench as you dont have to worry about where the transmitter is either, just in case it gets knocked off.
I am still waiting for one vital electronic "switcher", which electronise did promise would be ready in 3 weeks, but its now over 6. Will give them a call in the early new year now. but this will control some of the lights and horns/sirens, so rather than having to buy a 9 + channel transmitter system [or even the 14 channel recommended by Robbe], I can control all I wish from a 6 channel.
Dusseldorf update.
Sorry not been updating this for a while, but I had to wait for some rudder arms from Robbe, plus some more electronic switchgear [which still hasnt arrived - well done Electronise!].
I had a problem with the original rudder arms, in so much as due to their age, plus the boat had originally suffered from a water leak in the hull, the rudder arms had corroded badly and I was unable to remove the locking bolts from the rudder posts, enebling me to replace the rudder post seals and re lubricate the rudder shafts.
So after a few weeks patience, replacement rudder arms arrived and I was able to do the task in hand.
One item of electronice I have found very useful, is a "servo tester", simply plug the servo lead you wish to "test" in one side and plug a reciever battery pack in the other. "Hey presto!" you can now individually test a servo, without having to power up the whole system, so for something like setting up the rudder arc's, this operation is oh so simple and easy to do, without having to use the transmitter [or its batteries], leaves more space on the work bench as you dont have to worry about where the transmitter is either, just in case it gets knocked off.
I am still waiting for one vital electronic "switcher", which electronise did promise would be ready in 3 weeks, but its now over 6. Will give them a call in the early new year now. but this will control some of the lights and horns/sirens, so rather than having to buy a 9 + channel transmitter system [or even the 14 channel recommended by Robbe], I can control all I wish from a 6 channel.
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Still trying to obtain or make a second "bee hive" induction filter for the upper deck, so in the meantime I bought some decals from "custom decals". they make some rather nice scale boat decals in various scales, ranging from 1:48th, 1:32nd, 1:24th 1:16th and 1:12th. OK so all decals are in English, which do look a little out of place on my German boat, but at least Joe public can read them when on display. they include: keep shut at sea,survivors fasten seat belts,first aid,use ear protectors,open/shut] [for handles & hatches], no smoking and radio warning signs
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Decal detailing
Still trying to obtain or make a second "bee hive" induction filter for the upper deck, so in the meantime I bought some decals from "custom decals". they make some rather nice scale boat decals in various scales, ranging from 1:48th, 1:32nd, 1:24th 1:16th and 1:12th. OK so all decals are in English, which do look a little out of place on my German boat, but at least Joe public can read them when on display. they include: keep shut at sea,survivors fasten seat belts,first aid,use ear protectors,open/shut] [for handles & hatches], no smoking and radio warning signs
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I have finally got around to making a replacement "bee hive" air intake for the upper deck, I made it from cutting 2 differing diameters of balsa discs, then using a length of dowel through the middle.
I have test run the boat, all seems fine, only one things wrong, I forgot to take my camrea along with me, so dont have any film footage as yet, will have to wait till next pool visit.
Main reason for this blog update was to show you all my cheap and simple method of getting your boat, to and from the car as well as in and out of the water, especially if the water level is a couple of feet lower than the deck level.
I use a carry handle, made from a length of wooden broom handle [to give idea of diameter/size] and a couple of 30mm wide luggage straps. these are loosely affixed to the handle and have some thin rubber [old car mat] slipped over at the bottom, to protect the boat hull and also to act as a "spreader" when sliding under the boat when lifting out of the water.
if you leave the strap adjusters on, you can then adjust the height of the straps to suit different boats and also differing water levels you come across.
Cheap, simple and small enough to stow afterwards, and if you do get it wet, well simply hang outside for an hour ot 2 and dries no problem.
I find these handles better than trying to balance a boat on a trolley, as you run risk of damage, plus takes you twice as long to walk to the water, plus gives you backache in the process, so its easier and simple to carry it anyway.
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Carry strop
I have finally got around to making a replacement "bee hive" air intake for the upper deck, I made it from cutting 2 differing diameters of balsa discs, then using a length of dowel through the middle.
I have test run the boat, all seems fine, only one things wrong, I forgot to take my camrea along with me, so dont have any film footage as yet, will have to wait till next pool visit.
Main reason for this blog update was to show you all my cheap and simple method of getting your boat, to and from the car as well as in and out of the water, especially if the water level is a couple of feet lower than the deck level.
I use a carry handle, made from a length of wooden broom handle [to give idea of diameter/size] and a couple of 30mm wide luggage straps. these are loosely affixed to the handle and have some thin rubber [old car mat] slipped over at the bottom, to protect the boat hull and also to act as a "spreader" when sliding under the boat when lifting out of the water.
if you leave the strap adjusters on, you can then adjust the height of the straps to suit different boats and also differing water levels you come across.
Cheap, simple and small enough to stow afterwards, and if you do get it wet, well simply hang outside for an hour ot 2 and dries no problem.
I find these handles better than trying to balance a boat on a trolley, as you run risk of damage, plus takes you twice as long to walk to the water, plus gives you backache in the process, so its easier and simple to carry it anyway.
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Well, finally remembered to take a camaera with me, when I took my firebaot to tghe local pool today. Weather was brilliant, albeit a bit choppy. it was just a pity there wasnt someone else there to either take control whilst I did some picture takeing, or someone holding the camera, So please , I appologise for camera shake, but think whats here is clear enough to view.
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On the water !
Well, finally remembered to take a camaera with me, when I took my firebaot to tghe local pool today. Weather was brilliant, albeit a bit choppy. it was just a pity there wasnt someone else there to either take control whilst I did some picture takeing, or someone holding the camera, So please , I appologise for camera shake, but think whats here is clear enough to view.
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Sorry for delays In updating this site, but also now running another boat club blog too http:chasewatermbc.blogspot.com/
Fireboat Is running superbly, recently replaced the original robbe motors for direct replacement robbe units, well at only ÂA£11.00 each, you cant beat them for price or performance. the originals have lasted In this boat for over 5 years, 2 In my ownership and the remainder with Its previous owner, so cant be all bad.
had no problems with the dusseldorf since my refurbishment, all systems working fine, handles and runs like a fast patrol or torpedo boat,let alone a fireboat.
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Dusseldorf Fire Boat
Sorry for delays In updating this site, but also now running another boat club blog too http:chasewatermbc.blogspot.com/
Fireboat Is running superbly, recently replaced the original robbe motors for direct replacement robbe units, well at only ÂA£11.00 each, you cant beat them for price or performance. the originals have lasted In this boat for over 5 years, 2 In my ownership and the remainder with Its previous owner, so cant be all bad.
had no problems with the dusseldorf since my refurbishment, all systems working fine, handles and runs like a fast patrol or torpedo boat,let alone a fireboat.
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