I have posted this on another site, but will continue here if there is interest. I have a plan taken from a book some time ago. Drawn my own sections from experience, having built 2 paddlers before. T.D.B.W. on the sections is the true depth of hull. increased depth for stability, as steam plants are top heavy, experience again.
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I have posted this on another site, but will continue here if there is interest. I have a plan taken from a book some time ago. Drawn my own sections from experience, having built 2 paddlers before. T.D.B.W. on the sections is the true depth of hull. increased depth for stability, as steam plants are top heavy, experience again.
The patient slept most of yesterday, so managed a little play.
Cut and joined 3 plates, beet to shape on the padding on my stool. Cleaned the edges with sand paper & steel wool. Tinned where they join, big soldering iron is ideal. Seeing as I may have success I will now fit edging around the top to strengthen the edge of the tin.
The reason for tin plate, I have a plan of the Duchess of Fife specifying this method. I was afraid to try before now.
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The patient slept most of yesterday, so managed a little play.
Cut and joined 3 plates, beet to shape on the padding on my stool. Cleaned the edges with sand paper & steel wool. Tinned where they join, big soldering iron is ideal. Seeing as I may have success I will now fit edging around the top to strengthen the edge of the tin.
The reason for tin plate, I have a plan of the Duchess of Fife specifying this method. I was afraid to try before now.
Soldering almost finished. I have used two different melting point solders, I found that very useful. Tip don't keep you legs under the solder point, OW!
The foam mould removed along with the wooden frame. Will be replacing the frame around the deck level, and the two bulkheads each side of the engine room. Bulkheads will be recut 15mm deeper, to allow for the extra depth to accommodate the different boiler. This will be cut to the mark, the stick is on the shaft line. keeping the shorter section. Need to clean up the outside and stop the leaks, Yes there are a few, but then to few to mention.
I usually use coffee stirring sticks. But at this scale far to wide. I cut 3/32" strips off a 7/8" plank. Stuck them back together with a mixture of P.V.A. & acrylic black paint. Clamping over the whole length. Next day cut down the opposite way to about 1/16 & sand to a finish. Mark in the joints & nails with a pen. The planks could be any width required, & the black joints aren't to big.
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I usually use coffee stirring sticks. But at this scale far to wide. I cut 3/32" strips off a 7/8" plank. Stuck them back together with a mixture of P.V.A. & acrylic black paint. Clamping over the whole length. Next day cut down the opposite way to about 1/16 & sand to a finish. Mark in the joints & nails with a pen. The planks could be any width required, & the black joints aren't to big.
I was lucky to find a 103mm + 300mm copper tube, only £10, bargain. Scored in the lathe then cut with hacksaw. then tided up back in lathe. Fire tube brazed together with fins at the burner end. Silver solder cross tubes next. No cross tubes near boiler end, will disrupt burner. Reason for fins extra heat transfer.
This will be my 7th boiler.
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I was lucky to find a 103mm + 300mm copper tube, only £10, bargain. Scored in the lathe then cut with hacksaw. then tided up back in lathe. Fire tube brazed together with fins at the burner end. Silver solder cross tubes next. No cross tubes near boiler end, will disrupt burner. Reason for fins extra heat transfer.
This will be my 7th boiler.
I already have two paddle steamers. Glen Usk @ 5ft & Duke of Devonshire @ 6ft. That’s why Totnes Castle is only 2ft-6ins. Sorry you may have to wait, as 2 steam & 3 sail need maintenance. I intend to replcacat the saloons, that is why the engine room is as similar to prototype as practical. Boiler just the flue that’s wrong. The engine & drive not correct at all, just taking the same space. Thanks for you interest.
Sketched out the engine, on a scrap of paper. the main frame 1"+ 1/8" two of joined by two 3/8" square. The square drilled through the centres (steam passages). Cylinders 5/8 hexagon, turned off centre to leave one flat. Also 1/8" left at each end to take six 10 BM studs for the end caps. The throttle - reverse mounted upright above to one side. Size over all 3"+ 3" The drawing shows most but questions welcome.
I have altered this from previous engines I have made. Split the standard so I can increase the size of the bearings. This was a weak point before, didn't wear well.
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Sketched out the engine, on a scrap of paper. the main frame 1" 1/8" two of joined by two 3/8" square. The square drilled through the centres (steam passages). Cylinders 5/8 hexagon, turned off centre to leave one flat. Also 1/8" left at each end to take six 10 BM studs for the end caps. The throttle - reverse mounted upright above to one side. Size over all 3" 3" The drawing shows most but questions welcome.
I have altered this from previous engines I have made. Split the standard so I can increase the size of the bearings. This was a weak point before, didn't wear well.
I have tried to run the engine on air, but failed. I soon found the problem. I had designed the ports to be in from the end of the cylinder, to give better cover. I knew I would need a slot cut in the cylinder wall, to get steam past the piston. I had completely forgotten to do this. The photo shows the slot cut in this end of cylinder now. The photo is a close up showing all the scratches. The rough looking wall of cylinder are not that bad. they are a good thing as they will hold oil preventing wear. Well that is the theory.
I though I had posted about wheels but cant find it. so am repeating. I have cut wheel from aluminium plate in the past. This is a waste & a tedious job. This time I am building them up with strip & rod. Wooden formers turned up for inner & outer rims. Strip raped around & Joint soldered. then holes drilled for the spokes. A hub tuned & drilled, the accurate holes have aligned every thing in the right position. One ready for soldering. inner wheel almost flat. Outer dished to stop lateral movement. Spokes marked in red from board for bends.
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I though I had posted about wheels but cant find it. so am repeating. I have cut wheel from aluminium plate in the past. This is a waste & a tedious job. This time I am building them up with strip & rod. Wooden formers turned up for inner & outer rims. Strip raped around & Joint soldered. then holes drilled for the spokes. A hub tuned & drilled, the accurate holes have aligned every thing in the right position. One ready for soldering. inner wheel almost flat. Outer dished to stop lateral movement. Spokes marked in red from board for bends.
If I make another set of wheels I would use brass strip, not the bronze spring material I had this time. I could silver solder the main parts then. I would also try one strip around each size, mark the holes, then use as patterns for the rest. Then soldering them afterward.
Need a change from wood work. I don't know if the helm was wooden or brass. I do know that brass was very popular on later paddlers, so brass it is.
starting with a 1ins rod I turn the end so. I mark the spokes with a pointed tool, divided by my home made arrangement. A change wheel is fixed to back end of main shaft. in this case a 40, for 8 divisions. I could do with a cross drill on the tool post, but don't have an accurate one. I will have to drill the holes in the mill.
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Need a change from wood work. I don't know if the helm was wooden or brass. I do know that brass was very popular on later paddlers, so brass it is.
starting with a 1ins rod I turn the end so. I mark the spokes with a pointed tool, divided by my home made arrangement. A change wheel is fixed to back end of main shaft. in this case a 40, for 8 divisions. I could do with a cross drill on the tool post, but don't have an accurate one. I will have to drill the holes in the mill.
Holes drilled spokes cut & fitted, stuck with super glue. Don't want silver from solder showing. I made a mistake, should have drilled the holes before removing the waste. The drill kept skidding side ways off the centre boss. Should have just cut a grove around the boss, to see how things where going. Any way got over that. Skimming off the boss so the spokes lay level. Then made a cap to fit over them. Note the cocktail stick keeping holes aligned. Drill this out when complete. Marked the handles for length in the lathe. cut & file them before patting off.
No play as I have been on holiday for a month. Now I am back I need to repair six of my boats as they are all out of commission after the summer sailing. So no play on T.C. for a wile. She is not abandoned. will return soon. thanks for watching.
No play as I have been on holiday for a month. Now I am back I need to repair six of my boats as they are all out of commission after the summer sailing. So no play on T.C. for a wile. She is not abandoned. will return soon. thanks for watching.
