I sealed all interior and exterior surfaces with at least 3 coats of sanding sealer prior to spray painting, its amazing what just a coat of paint does when building in balsa and ply, its this stage that I look forward to most.
done properly you can't tell its balsa and ply !!!
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I sealed all interior and exterior surfaces with at least 3 coats of sanding sealer prior to spray painting, its amazing what just a coat of paint does when building in balsa and ply, its this stage that I look forward to most.
done properly you can't tell its balsa and ply !!!
as you can see, all superstructure is fixed on to the rc access hatch, I fixed a small brass hook (painted grey of course) to the rear of the hatch to enable me to take it off without having to hold on to any superstructure thus eliminating breakages,the hook when painted could be mistaken for a small davit.
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as you can see, all superstructure is fixed on to the rc access hatch, I fixed a small brass hook (painted grey of course) to the rear of the hatch to enable me to take it off without having to hold on to any superstructure thus eliminating breakages,the hook when painted could be mistaken for a small davit.
Sounds like a great idea. Can you show a picture with a bit more detail of rear of the hatch with the hook. I am always breaking bits off my models when removing the superstructure so any workable solutions are most welcome 👍
just for you dave m,I know its not exactly like a davit but I think I would rather have the 'hook' than a broken ship.
the 'hook' is in front of the stern gun deck.
regards
mark b
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just for you dave m,I know its not exactly like a davit but I think I would rather have the 'hook' than a broken ship.
the 'hook' is in front of the stern gun deck.
regards
mark b
the gun you see hear is a single when it should be a twin, I purchased 3 of them because I couldn't find any twins in 1/72 and thought I would change the ship to suit.
then my mate razorback told me of a place called fleetscale which had 1/72 twin turrets !!!
they were way too large because they was a totally enclosed turret but major modification would sort them out,more on that later.
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the gun you see hear is a single when it should be a twin, I purchased 3 of them because I couldn't find any twins in 1/72 and thought I would change the ship to suit.
then my mate razorback told me of a place called fleetscale which had 1/72 twin turrets !!!
they were way too large because they was a totally enclosed turret but major modification would sort them out,more on that later.
the stanchions are robbe 25mm 3 hole with the top hole snipped off to give me lots of hand rail ends and rigging tie off points.
the 'rail' is made from MAXIMA 40lb breaking strain fishing line which I find gives a better look than brass rod and is very easy to fit.
the diameter of the 40lb MAXIMA is a snug fit in the stanchion holes and gives a natural bend without having to bend it.
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the stanchions are robbe 25mm 3 hole with the top hole snipped off to give me lots of hand rail ends and rigging tie off points.
the 'rail' is made from MAXIMA 40lb breaking strain fishing line which I find gives a better look than brass rod and is very easy to fit.
the diameter of the 40lb MAXIMA is a snug fit in the stanchion holes and gives a natural bend without having to bend it.
Dont worry, not knocking the idea, in fact its a very good one, one to remember!
Ive even gone "beyond the norm" on handrails lately, as I used some black silicone tube, stretched slightly between end fixings, it looks as good as solid bar, but flexI enough to take the odd knock without damage to the stanchions. 👍
the fleetscale 1/72 modern twin turret was cut in half and its base removed.
I made smaller bases out of an old dvd case and made basic guns to fit inside the hollow turret with 8mm dowels and balsa offcuts.
the result is not accurate but it will do for me.
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the fleetscale 1/72 modern twin turret was cut in half and its base removed.
I made smaller bases out of an old dvd case and made basic guns to fit inside the hollow turret with 8mm dowels and balsa offcuts.
the result is not accurate but it will do for me.
I have one of their latest kits, a 34" RAF Crash Tender and it fits together really well, They have cleverly used thick balsa for the chines and it makes it really easy to get a good line for both side and bottom skins. So much easier that the terrible hard wood that Aerokits used to use, needing small plain and coarse sandpaper to get half decent. I understand that their range is expanding all the time and see they have a 1/144 aircraft carrier ready for production.
this is also the only 'kit shack' kit I have built and I had to get the biggest they make, not thinking about where I was going to store it,at 59 inches its a squeeze in a small flat with 5 other boats as well.
its great to hear they are making an aircraft carrier, I would love one, have you any idea of its size ?
the 'stand' had to be made very strong to enable me to carry it 'ready to go' with sealed lead acid on board.
the ends of the stand are from my hydroplane spares and have a ready made sloped cut-out for the ship to rest on,after glueing dense foam on the contact points first with 'welder' contact adhesive.
eye bolts are fixed on the 28 inch x 2.5 inch x 1.5 inch hard wood length so I can secure polyproperlene rope to carry it.
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the 'stand' had to be made very strong to enable me to carry it 'ready to go' with sealed lead acid on board.
the ends of the stand are from my hydroplane spares and have a ready made sloped cut-out for the ship to rest on,after glueing dense foam on the contact points first with 'welder' contact adhesive.
eye bolts are fixed on the 28 inch x 2.5 inch x 1.5 inch hard wood length so I can secure polyproperlene rope to carry it.
the superstructure can be left on because the stand is wide enough for the ropes to comfortably avoid the ship. the all up weight is not too bad, with my other equipment in the other hand it will balance out nicely 👍
these photo's show that the ropes clear the hull sides and mast,rigging etc by at least 3 inches all round and the weight is less than my apache 50 on its stand.
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these photo's show that the ropes clear the hull sides and mast,rigging etc by at least 3 inches all round and the weight is less than my apache 50 on its stand.
yep not bad for nothing mate, you will have to keep your eye open for 'local kitchen fitters' if you know what I mean.
you never know what they might leave behind !!! 😁
I got the handles from amazon (bus handles) for only a couple of quid, the strapping is also from amazon, quite soft too so it wont mark the hull.
I doubled over the strapping through the handles and finished them by fixing two bolts with plates through the strapping to make it superstrong.
also stiched into the bottom of each strap loop a length of cable insulation to help the strap stay open and to help them to sink when about to lift my ship out.
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I got the handles from amazon (bus handles) for only a couple of quid, the strapping is also from amazon, quite soft too so it wont mark the hull.
I doubled over the strapping through the handles and finished them by fixing two bolts with plates through the strapping to make it superstrong.
also stiched into the bottom of each strap loop a length of cable insulation to help the strap stay open and to help them to sink when about to lift my ship out.
the motor cans on electric motors are normally too long and end up covering the cooling vents so I cut mine back with a dremmel and diamond cutting disk. I tested first how much of the can I could cut off without losing the torque and found I could cut off almost half !!!, leaving the cooling vents wide open and still giving the extra torque I wanted.
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the motor cans on electric motors are normally too long and end up covering the cooling vents so I cut mine back with a dremmel and diamond cutting disk. I tested first how much of the can I could cut off without losing the torque and found I could cut off almost half !!!, leaving the cooling vents wide open and still giving the extra torque I wanted.
