For those interested, I bought a set of plans of the real thing at great expense £10/plan from a company in Glasgow.
Photos show the rudder and steering mechanism for the sail driven boat.

Future plan is to convert the model to sail.
This may be a step too far but we'll see.

Good morning Peps.
Following your advice I have modified a few things.
A-Put a flex point on the servo linkage to reduce the effect of the non linear drive of the servo. I.e. A bit of flexible plastics hose. I put blobs of solder on the end of the rods to ensure a good fit.
B The chain hole through the hull , coated it with superglue and when set filed as required for a smooth finish.
C - Lifted the rudder arms slightly.
Now running very smooth with no snatching. Woopee!

First video loaded , hope it works ok.

Put together with stuff from the scrap box. Although you will not see a lot inside the bridge when complete, I had a go at carving a seaman,and fitting a chart table. Still have to make and fit handrails, life belts, etc.

It's been a wee while since the last post but I have not been idle.
Fitted the back to the wheel house and fitted all the handrail, etc.
Made up mast and spars from dowel tapered by sanding, various hardware fitting from brass wire and sheet.
Don't have a sewing machine, so called up a favour from a friend to make the sail. Fitted the eyelets myself. Assembled the mast, spars and sail. This was a very fiddly task.
Have arranged the mast head lighting with guide wires. This will be used to power up the lanterns. This was a deviation from the plans however I think a practical solution to allow lanterns to light up.
Still to fit a few things like water tank, skylights, etc.

The intention was to make the boat from wood from the scrap box. I made the hull mold as in the photographs however when trying to make the ribs, they kept breaking. Tried various methods and woods with no great success so I turned to plastic. The result I am very pleased with.

I would be very happy to hear on techniques to build a ship's boat in wood.

Spent some time thinking about the fitting of batteries,fuses, esc, and lighting circuits.
I made up two battery boxes, one for either side of the drive motor. These were mounted but still allow for removal of the batteries, with a bit of fiddling. Recharging is accommodated by plugs on battery leads.
The fuse board (from Halfords) is mounted in the forward access hatch with a common negative busbar.
On the positive side two fuses for the battery, one for the speed controller (esc)and another for the lights.
The fishhold holds the on/off switch,and speed controller which also supplies power to the radio receiver which is installed in the rudder compartment.
This is to allow the radio aerials to be put in the wheelhouse if required.
Dry run test went well.
Oh I did do a float check in the bath,with batteries mounted and had to add some weight to the bows.

Did this when the better half was out!!
Very pleased with the stability of the boat, no fear of capsizing.
Also was very surprised at the performance of the prop. I thought it was quite small for the size of boat but I think it will give a good turn of speed in the pond.
Very happy boy!

Just thought I would record how I wired the boat.
Not sure how the photo will turn out.

Made out of brass sheet, and soldered up.