Since it looks like the lockdown will continue for a while I decided it was time I do another, more complex build. Most of my boat building and sailing experience is with RC Sailing Yachts so I decided to build Star 45. This boat is a AMYA Class sailed among sailing clubs in the States, not sure if it is popular elsewhere in the world. Let me know if any of you have seen these...

This is one of the sailing yachts that can be scratch built, is a nice size, 45 inches, and they sail nicely. Plans are available on line as are lazer cut frames to make building a lot easier. Chine hull is also desired by myself given my poor planking history.

Will include build photos as I go.
Joe 😎😎😎

First, I spent time looking at the web for the Star 45 information available. Attached is a link of one of the sites that is very thorough including history of the boat Class. I sailed one of these Stars about 10 years ago and really enjoyed it, a fun sail!

Decided to order the lazer cut frames as they are affordable, $60 usd, would probably cost me that much in materials alone. Stevensaero.com was highly recommended by previous builders. See photo.

Also purchased the Star 45 Construction Manual by Steve Deligan. This is a bargain at $20 for a pdf download. Received within hours of ordering and I like it so far. I do not know how to post more than one web link so I will do in another post.

While waiting for frames to arrive I built a Building Board, 48" long out of 1/2" mdf. Nice flat surface and very straight. Holes in top and bases are to provide possible tie downs. Will be using clamps, rubber bands and maybe even some bungie cord to construct the hull.

Even building your own boat can get pretty costly, so keeping with my mo, I will be building mostly from scratch. This will include masts, booms, sails, hardware, etc. Will stick to a a meager budget.

Thanks for your interest, please ask any questions that you may have.
Joe 😎

Frames arrived within two days so I had to continue to work today....could not wait till tomorrow! Frames are 3/32" plywood, very nice quality laser cut.

Each frame was set very carefully making certain that they are square horizontally and vertically.

The temporary white boards set between the frames were made from foamcore board, cut precisely to the correct width. These are used to keep the frames vertical as the stringers are installed. Will be removed once the keelson, stringers and chine logs and sheer rails are installed.

Side stringers started and show how I am using rubber bands to hold members in place while glue dry. I use Titebond III Ultimate wood glue, my method is to put some glue on both surfaces, let them sit about 5 minutes, then clamp together. Black push pins were installed at each station to allow for rubber bands. Rubber bands span at frames, NOT midpoints of spans as that would deflect the stringers. Getting late, more tomorrow.

😋Joe 😴

Placed keelson first, then stringers, chines and last sheers. Installed one at a time, both sides, then allowed to dry for several hours each. Watching glue cure....
Joe

Found some cedar pickets at the lumber yard, they are🤣 straight grained and very lightweight, must be kiln-dried. I ripped thin strips on my small table saw, they are a little under 1/8" x 1/2". Best of all they are only 97 cents. One will be enough for the bottom planks.

Sanded each by hand to remove saw marks and any roughness.

Used a straightedge to make sure that the first plank would be straight as they flex a bit. Time to watch the glue dry.
Joe

I am placing two planks at a time to hopefully keep this hull straight. Four in so far. Using Titebond III woodworkers glue make placement easy. I set two in place, opposite sides, then place rubber bands and an occasional clamp. Since I have plenty of time I am letting these cure for anywhere from 4 hours to overnight.
Joe 😎😎😎

All bottom planking is now in place however additional trimming is still needed as well as further sanding. The cedar gives a nice solid surface, I am glad I used this material rather than something soft like balsa. Remember this bottom cost me 97 cents!

Typically these wood hulls get fiberglass but I am thinking about just using resin and deleting the fiberglass mat. Not sure at this point, any opinions welcome.

Outer sheet rails installed and clamped. These are 1/8 × 3/8" over 1/8 x 1/4", pretty stiff!

Sides are next, plan to use 1/16" plywood that I just received from National Balsa 12"x48" size sheets....👍
Joe 😎

Side frames were prepared for covering, the best way I found to trim the edges was to use a small hand plane. It was much cleaner than using a lot of sandpaper.

Used some scrap cardboard taped together and created a template by holding it to the hull and tracing an outline. Hard to see as it is 45" long.
I then cut the sides back to back at the same time from 1/16" plywood. Pieces are over sized by about 1/4" all around and will be trimmed in place once the glue has cured.

Using Titebond III, I glued one side to the hull. The shear is held in place with clamps and the chine edge is secured with the rubber bands. I had some concerns with the rubber bands really working, but this system has proved to be a fast easy way to secure pieces in place.

More to come.
Joe 😎

Both sides now glued up and clamped. Will let cure for about 12 hours and hope to make some progress tomorrow on cleaning up the edges.
Joe 😌😴😴😴

Removed all those rubber bands, time to trim the edges of the sides. The sides are a very thin 1/16" marine plywood and I was surprised at how easily a small plane worked to remove the excess. Thought it might splinter the edges but it didn't. The plywood is of a high quality.

I had made this large sanding block previously to sand hulls, holds an entire sheet of sandpaper. It works well for rounding out the surfaces.

The transom gets another layer of plywood, again 1/16". Hull getting closer to glassing.
Joe 😎