Yes, Ross, I'm sure about the term "Bigotta" (with one G).
I have no doubts because the website of the Amati shipbuilding company (specializing in static naval modeling) also lists them in English in its catalog.
However, the "rubbing strake" (which started the discussion) is not an item for sale; it is simply made using a strip of wood that is thicker than the other planking in the hull.
In real construction, it is an integral part of the planking; in modeling, for ease, it can be applied after the hull is finished, not while it is being built.

Alessandro,

2 of my DEADEYES, BIGOTTA.

Size 10 mm

BIGOTTA= DEADEYE
Italian English


SLEEPING RIGGING is called STANDING RIGGING in English

This is to clarify my translation from Italian to Engish. This will be my Italian lesson for the week.
I have 40 DEADEYES in my toolbox. They are waiting to be installed

Sorry, Ross, I didn't understand the question.
You know, I can't understand simple questions, let alone subtle nuances.
I'm sorry I miss the humorous and ironic side of many answers, but they can't be filtered through mechanical translation.

Doug, Alessandro,

So, if BIGOTTA is a DEADEYE. Then SLEEPING RIGGING is STANDING RIGGING, SHROUD LINE in English,which supports the mast, (connected to DEADEYES)?⛵

Doug, you jokingly mentioned an English nautical term, but this clarifies what I mean even better.
"Sleeping rigging" or "Standing rigging".
In these cases there is greater relevance.
"Standing" is more understandable.
I think anyone who speaks English knows the words "to sleep" or "sleeping."
It's easy to make an association, and it's logical that rigging that isn't moved or manipulated (like the shrouds that hold the mast in place and give it, especially lateral, stability) can be considered sleeping, unlike sheets, for example, which are used to adjust and maneuver the sails.
But beyond this simple association, what I mean is that the word "sleeping" is a common word that even people who know nothing about sailing understand.
A curiosity: I mentioned sheets earlier. In this case, the origin of the Italian term "scotta" is well known.
In common (non-sailor) parlance, the word "sheet" refers to something that burns your hands if you touch it, such as a pot on the stove.
Well, in some cases (as every sailor has experienced) the sheet can suddenly and quickly slip between your hands and, due to the friction, burn them.

Alessandro,
"sleeping rigging" 💤💤💤💤??
I tinka we gotta anuva translaticator crossa da wires😁

😎
PS I'll be fascinated to see what your translator makes of that😂

Yes, as I've said on many other occasions, the Italian nautical tradition has developed over time words that are meaningful only in the navy.
These terms have no correspondence with everyday language, and their etymology is difficult or unknown.
Unlike many English nautical terms, they have no connection with everyday objects or words.
Almost all Italian nautical terms are largely unknown to anyone who isn't a sailor, a nautical enthusiast, or an experienced nautical modeler.
Not only "incintone" would have a bizarre literal translation, but many others as well.
For example, "bigotta" in everyday language refers to someone who displays great religiosity, devoting himself primarily to the external practices of his religion.
In nautical terms, the term "bigotta" is a spherical, three-hole, flattened block without pulleys, used to tighten sleeping rigging, and is the equivalent of the English term: "deadeye." I think the English term is more intuitive, in fact, the holes resemble two dead eyes and an open mouth underneath. Isn't that right?
"Rubbing strake" is even clearer and more intuitive.
If I ask an English person (who doesn't know the term) to look for a "rubbing strake" along the hull, they'll probably find it.
If I ask an Italian person (who doesn't know the term) to look for an "incintone" along the hull, they probably won't find it, because they only think of a man (pregnant) expecting a child, which isn't possible.

Hi Jock,
Scheuerleiste means rubbing strake in English.
Which translates to Striscia di sfregamento. Whatever that is🤔
Incintone is not recognised by my Italian Spellchecker?
But my Italian - English / German translator tells me it means pregnant or (correctly) schwanger in German😮 So pick the bones outa that😎

I think we can settle on rubbing strake for our purposes.😁
Cheers/ciao, Doug

Perfect, Jock, thanks to your guidance, I've found (I think so) the correct English term for this functional element of ancient ships.
Starting with the term "skirting board," which I don't think is correct, I found the correct one (at least I think so): "rubbing strake."
Then, searching for "rubbing strake," I found this drawing that confirms everything.

I only know what I believe it is in German "Scheuerleiste". In English it translates to
"skirting board". But not sure if it properly translates what you are referring to.

Hi Jock, thanks; when I saw I'd jammed the boom, I wasn't at all happy.

Do you know how to translate "incintone" from the description I gave?

As I understand the problem (the boom extension) I would have done the same. This way you preserve authenticity to the Original. For that I admire your endeavours and share your enthusiasm.👍

Good morning, all ship modelers.

Rather than updating you on the progress of the ship's model construction, and in particular the side davits, I wanted to inform you of a big mistake I made, as I had already mentioned to Jock Scott in his build.

After building the davits, I spent a lot of time and attention to the details of the tackle, traveler, and various running rigging.
I focused on the systems used to lower, hoist, and hold the lifeboats suspended from the sides, looking at images and drawings in books and online.
I looked for the best way to glue the four davits (the davits adhere well because they have two recesses for the gunwale and the "incintone").

A parenthesis: I didn't translate "Incintone" because I couldn't find an English term, not even in the glossary of nautical terms.
By "incintone" I mean that thicker, more protruding planking that also served as a fender in ancient times (I've indicated it with the red arrow).
The gunwale is indicated by the blue arrow.
Pat will surely know the answer; that's an excellent question for him.

I made sure the distance between the davits corresponded to the attachment points of the lifeboats, therefore less than the total length of the lifeboats.

Only after gluing the davits to the sides of the ship...HORROR!
A huge mistake!

I realized too late that the two davits forward were preventing (albeit slightly) the boom from opening when sailing downwind.
I certainly couldn't leave the situation like that.
I could have moved the davits further aft; the lifeboat would have been positioned above the gun but too close to the shrouds (see the green outline in the photo).
That wasn't the problem, however; the problem was that detaching the two davits would have ruined the gunwale and the side.
It would have taken me a long time to repair the damage.
Since I had some leeway, I decided to shorten the boom by cutting off the end.
I didn't understand why it was so difficult to cut. I used a hacksaw without a handle. Yes, it was uncomfortable there, and with so many ropes and objects impeding my movement, it still seemed strange.
I only realized it when I finished cutting and completely removing the end piece (see the attached photo with the yellow arrow).
In the past (but I don't remember exactly when) I had lengthened the boom to facilitate the application of the running rigging of the topping lift (uphaul), the clew outhaul, and the boom sheet.
When I have to lengthen a boom, I don't just glue the two pieces together but always insert a core (a reinforcement or connecting pin) inside.
This time I had inserted a brass rod.
That's why I had so much trouble cutting the end of the boom.

I've currently installed the main tackles with three-way blocks (three pulleys).
I've installed the straps (to keep the lifeboats from swinging), secured with two two-way blocks.
Cutting the fabric strips is crazy.

Don't mind the messy rigging on the deck; it all needs to be fixed.

Thank you so much, Doogle!

Outstanding 👍, well done Alessandro 👏

Good morning everyone.

A clarification on the difference in resilience between the lateral cranes made with the method I illustrated and with a 3D printer.

I confirm that, in my opinion, the one made with my method is much more resilient and durable than those made with a 3D printer.

I can say this with certainty.
First of all (although I don't claim to be a 3D printer expert), I've used several types of 3D printers.
Although I've never owned one, I've printed (by adjusting the application and printer settings directly) and had others print many of my own designs.
Everything I've printed directly or indirectly is my own drawings.
Over the years, I've tried different brands and materials.
Secondly (but no less importantly), I've performed breakage tests comparing the various cranes made with a 3D printer and those made with my method.
The 3D-printed cranes always failed much sooner and with less force applied in various directions (upward pull, downward pull, outward pull, inward pull, torsion).
Obviously, this was an empirical test, not a scientific one. I didn't use a dynamometer or other instruments, but simply relied on direct observation of the same phenomenon (applying force with my fingers). For me, this was more than sufficient, given the vast differences in behavior.
As already mentioned, my method has a weak point. The weak point is the paper between the plastic layers. So I don't know how long it will last, but I trust the paper is completely impregnated with cyanoacrylate.
If the transparent layers had been glued directly together (without the paper), the structure would have been much more compact.
This time, I couldn't do without the paper because I needed a reliable guide for the various progressive overlaps (which differed by tenths of a millimeter).

The method was also tested on smaller pieces, and the direct comparison was even more striking.

Of course, I'm not saying (and I never have) that a piece of that size and shape, made with a 3D printer, is absolutely fragile.
It's clear that even a 3D part is more than sufficient to support a small lifeboat of that size and weight.
It's not sufficient by my standards.
I admit I have very demanding standards, but they apply to the entire ship.
I could go on and on about my criteria, but there's no need; suffice it to say that I simply chose the strongest piece (among the lightweight, non-metallic ones I've tested).
Saying that, in my opinion, the piece made with my method is stronger than one made with a 3D printer doesn't disparage the 3D printer at all.
But to understand this, you have to be intellectually honest and not deliberately misrepresent what's being said, as some people always do.
Therefore, I confirm and reiterate my statement:
"
As I said, I would have saved a lot of time if I had 3D-printed the part, but it certainly wouldn't have been as resilient."

This clarification is addressed to those interested in other construction methods, not to those who criticize without any constructive spirit, just for the sake of it and without understanding the meaning of what is being written.
Certainly not to those who don't even deserve a response (given the explicit insults they've posted privately in the past, which perhaps I should publish to help you understand who they are).
This clarification wouldn't have been necessary if there hadn't been some pointless comments, based on lack of knowledge and a desire to boast and show off at the expense of others.
Someone who writes that someone else has never tried something or doesn't know that thing, belittling the knowledge of others, or accuses someone of telling a lie, is not only presumptuous—how could one define them?
But in general, it's well known that the ignorant know everything.


https://model-boats.com/forum/154117#154425

Thank you so much, Jumpugly, for the kind words and to everyone who hit the "like" button.

Alessandro! They are beautiful. Excellent workmanship here!!!
👍🏻

Good evening everyone, I'm continuing with the updates to my naval model.
In particular, the progress made on the lateral cranes for the lifeboats.

For those interested, I recommend seeing post 508 of this topic to understand how the curved tubular structure of the crane was created.

I've made little progress because I've had little free time, but they're coming along as I'd hoped.
I'm particularly pleased because, after painting, you can't tell either by sight or touch that each of the four cranes isn't a single piece but is the composition of many parts joined together.
I'm also pleased (technically, it's one of the best things about this model, although the least noticeable) with having created a very strong, flexible structure, despite being so small and so light.
As I said, I would have saved a lot of time if I had 3D-printed the part, but it certainly wouldn't have been as resilient.

Now I need to complete the arms and rollers that space and secure the dinghies, the tackles, and the various ropes, and most importantly, I need to attach the davits to the hull.
As you can see in the photos, I created the brass plates.
It's a shame I don't have a spare set of cleats; I needed at least four very small ones.

Hello everyone, just to let you know.

Those who follow this topic know that it covers all the construction and update phases of the 1:60 scale RC naval model.

The advantage of creating a single topic is consistency, but the major disadvantage is that (there are now thousands of posts) it's almost impossible to search and read old posts. It would take hours.

For this reason, I've decided to create a new topic for the update of the second navigation test, which took place on September 4, 2025.

Here I'll just link to that new topic.

https://model-boats.com/forum/157027

Thank you so much for your appreciation, Thadlietz.
Yes, it seems like a very complex job for a small detail, but I was forced to.
I've done it on two other occasions for this model, where the piece was thin but prone to breakage.

Thank you very much Chum444, your words are much appreciated.

Bravo! So much work for a seemingly simple thing..... maybe you save one to make a mold of for a casting maybe? kind of sort of somehow carbon fibre/grp probably to small huh anyways BRAVO SIR!😮

mio amico, you have the patience of a saint & the tenacity of a bulldog. Incredibly well done.

Good evening, all ship modelers.

I'm way behind on my work, but I've gotten something done.

The goal was to build the lateral davits for the two lifeboats (already ready) to be positioned on the outside of the sides.
Since I don't have a pre-made plan to follow, I had to decide on the shape, size, and material to use for the davits.
The only thing I had foreseen in the initial design (which, however, didn't address all the details from the outset) was their position.

First, I roughly decided on the shape by looking at dozens of images and drawings, choosing those closest to the historical period in question.
I opted for a curved davit with a circular/elliptical cross-section.

Then I had to research the measurements.
As you can see in the hand sketches, I measured the distances needed based on the main ship and the dimensions of the lifeboats (for example: total height of the davits, maximum projection of the curved arm, distance from the side). For the maximum height, in addition to considering a harmonious appearance, I had to consider the overall dimensions of the hoists.

Regarding the thickness of the crane, I did some research and finally found the maximum and minimum diameters for the straight and curved tubes.

Regarding the material, I definitely ruled out wood due to the impossibility of making the curved part and its fragility.
Metals and plastics remained to be considered:

Metals or alloys:
I don't like iron because I'm always afraid it will rust.
Spring steel springs back into place, and it would have been very difficult for me to give it a curved shape and keep it there forever (unless I used a tie rod, like a bow).
Brass doesn't rust; it can be soldered, but it can bend (especially such a thin rod). It's easy for the crane to sustain accidental impacts, and I'd end up with brass cranes that were always bent or deformed.
External tinning or other heat treatment could have made the brass tube stiff and non-deformable.
However, I couldn't have tapered it. I don't have the right tools.

Plastics:
Years ago, I tried printing cranes from my own designs.
They resisted a light impact and returned to their original shape, but with a stronger impact, they broke easily. I found that the plastic materials used by 3D printers are unsuitable for this purpose, lacking the resilience (for such thin thicknesses).

In the end, I opted for a solution I'd already experimented with in the past.
In short, I create a multilayer of very thin plastic sheets, glued and overlapped.

As you can see from the screenshots, after several attempts, I found the shape that seemed most suitable (I mean, suitable in terms of size and composite curvature).
The tube is straight and untapered at the base (the part attached to the side), then curved and tapered, with its smallest diameter at the tip.
Essentially, the first part is a straight cylinder, the second is a curved truncated cone. The curvature is not a simple arc of circumference.
Once the solid was found, it was "sliced" with several parallel and equidistant surfaces.
The intersection of the solid and the cut surfaces generated various profiles.
The profiles were transferred to a PDF and printed.
Then cut out and glued onto sheets of transparent plastic.
The various profiles, joined with cyanoacrylate, recreated the shape of the initial solid (with good sanding, a circular/elliptical cross-section is obtained).
To draw a parallel with the world of electronics and telecommunications, it's as if an analog signal (the curved tube) were sampled and then reconstructed from the samples.
I repeat: I don't have the solid I designed printed directly because it would be too fragile and totally unsuitable for the purpose.

Now I've made two (of four) that still need to be refined and then colored.

The flaw in the structure is the paper. I can't avoid gluing it because it would be impossible to cut out the profile without the guide drawing. Each profile differs from the others by tenths of a millimeter.

There are practical construction details that I didn't want to delve into because they're very difficult to explain. Without certain precautions, however, the work will not succeed.

Thank you very much Duncan!

Thank you so much, Stevedownunder.

Fabulous little lifeboats. You are so clever with your hands. Well done!😊

Hi Alessandro,
Fantastic end result, beautiful little ships boats.

Cheers,
Stephen.

Thank you so much Jumpugly!

Thank you so much Wolle!

Alessandro! These photos made my day!!!!

Sehr großes Kino. 👍👍👍

Thank you very much Peterd.

Incredible work and detail. Looking forward to the next stage.

Good morning everyone.
This is the final situation that the central lifeboats will have.
The largest one can mount a mast with a mainsail and a jib (in addition to the propulsion with the oars).
The mast, the gaff, the movable bowsprit, and the sails are rolled together in the center above the benches.
In the smaller dinghy the rudder is on the deck (not inserted in the sternpost).
I always make extra spare pieces so I had two extra oars, I left them in the lifeboats. They will know what to do with them.
I wanted to build barrels and buckets myself but given the biblical times of construction of this ship and given that the ones they had were made quite well I used those.
Finally closed the discussion on the central lifeboats.
Now I am taking the measurements to build the lateral cranes.

Good evening everyone, here are some images that reproduce the construction phases of the oars.

I used 2 x 1 mm walnut strips that I divided in two to obtain 1 x 1 mm strips (I didn't have them and I didn't want to go to the shop for so little).
Ten are 55 mm long and ten are 60 mm long.
To create the blades I joined two 1 x 0.5 mm strips (shorter) to the ends of the previous ones.
Then, with fine sandpaper (240), I reduced the strip from a square section to a round one, with a diameter of less than 1 mm (from 0.6 mm and 0.8 mm).
With the same sandpaper I shaped and reduced the blades of the oars.
Finally I painted them.
They will be joined in a bundle and tied together before being inserted into the boats.

Good evening everyone.
I continued with the interior setup.
I definitely intend to put the oars and some ropes on both central lifeboats.
I'm still thinking about whether to place a wooden box, a small barrel (at least on one of the two central lifeboats), a small anchor.
On the larger one I think I'll also put a mast, a peak and the mainsail (wrapped and tied to the aforementioned woods).

Since the oars definitely need to be placed I started to do some research on the dimensions and to fish out my memories.
The length varies a lot. I found some texts that indicate this length between 2.5 and 3 meters.
Three meters in 1:60 scale corresponds to a length of 50 mm.
I did a test (imagining the part that must be maneuvered inboard by the rower and the part that must be able to move in the water in a functional way) on the two lifeboats and it still seemed too little to me.
So, after comparing several photos I decided to make them 5.5 cm long on the smaller boat and 6 cm on the larger one.
The diameter is instead 4 cm which in 1:60 scale is equivalent to 0.067 cm, or 0.67 mm. In short I have to manage a pole thinner than a millimeter. It will not be very easy.
There remains the problem of the width of the oar blade and its length.
So I decided how to build them, it will be easier to show it with photos than to describe it.

Any observation on the size and shape of the oars is welcome.

In the meantime I am starting to take measurements to design the cranes, but this in another message. Here I have already written a lot.

Thank you very much (grazie mille) Doug.

Semplicemente bello👍😮

Thank you very much, Dave.

The detail you achieve is truly amazing.
You don't need to make excuses for the speed at which you achieve the results.
The results speak for themselves.
Dave B

Thank you very much, Duncan.

Superb detail - very well done! Fantastic skills you have.😊

Thank you so much, Doogle.

Thank you so much, Jumpugly.

Good morning Alessandro, your detailing is outstanding. Awesome job 👏

It just keeps getting better!!!
😊

Thank you very much.
No, CommodoreH I have never seen them in nature (in their natural environment I mean).
My goal is to be faster than them then I will compete with other animals a little faster.