Continued from the previous message.

I considered the thickness of 2 mm correct, which in reality (in 1/60 scale) means a thickness of 12 cm.

For this reason I had to modify the 3D drawing (image 1), and reprint some guide sheets for cutting (images 2 and 3).
I made extra ones to have a reserve in case of errors but there was no need.

Now, instead of laser cutting, I should have cut out (images 4 and 5) the paper keel, glue it on a sheet of plywood and then shape the desired piece of wood.

The problem is that I could not find a 2 mm plywood sheet straight enough. The keels would have come out slightly curved, so I decided to create a sort of plywood myself, overlapping the wooden strips until I reached the desired thickness.

Then, not being able to use a wire saw (because the pieces are too small) I used a cutter, sandpaper and a lot of patience (Images from 6 to 10)
So far the piece has come out perfectly straight and very precisely shaped.


...continue...

Alessandro,
Assuming it passes the visual test, can the planking be installed with so large a keel?

Do you know what thickness the original keel would be?

Good evening to all you naval modelers.

I'll update you on some progress.
I'm building the lifeboats.

Those who remember the beginning of this post, know that I had already designed the lifeboats and had them laser cut (keel and frames) along with all the other parts of the naval model (images 1, 2, and 3).
So I already had the skeleton of the lifeboats ready; I would have had to create the planking manually but for the skeleton of the lifeboat it was done.
Assembling the frames on the keel with pre-arranged joints would have been very easy and, above all, fast.
However, using the same sheet of 4 mm thick plywood I found myself with a keel (image 4) that was too thick.
In proportion, in 1/60 scale a 4 mm thick keel means that in reality it would have been 24 cm. I think too much (what do you think?).
However, even by eye it didn't convince me.

...continues...

Thanks Jumpugly, I also really like the place where you sail your RC models.

Thank you posting the video Alessandro! She is a beautiful sight!!! 😊

Of course Ross you have to continue.

There is no reason not to continue an already beautiful and promising job like yours.
I think you don't have much left for the launch.

I can't wait to see your schooner in the water. I hope it's a sunny day but with good wind, decided.

You inspire me to keep working on mine. Thank you. . .

Thanks so much Len.
I'm glad you liked the video. Unfortunately the quality is not good because I made them with my cell phone.
I cut the distant shots because you couldn't see anything or almost nothing.

Your fantastic workmanship continues. You have such patience and skill. Love the video. Len

Hi CommodoreH, thank you very much for the compliments and your interest.

In theory there is little left, in practice (at my speed) there is a lot left.
After completing the cannons, he will make the lifeboats.

I know that the Amati and Mantua company sell many wooden kits for building lifeboats of various sizes and at low cost but I prefer to make them myself.
I have already completed the drawings of the two lifeboats that will go alongside the ship.
The design of the lifeboat (or two lifeboats) that will go amidships is still being completed.

In addition to the lifeboats, I will have to create the system to support them and put them in the water.

Then the binnacle with the compass and some running rigging are missing.

As for the water test, I have already done the first navigation as you can see in this video.
The lake was very large and deep.
He sailed both under sail and under motor, but given the almost total absence of wind (next time I'll check the weather forecast first) I didn't carry out the tacks completely under sail.

If you mean actual sea, no. This model is not suitable for navigation at sea.

Looks great!
Beautiful craftsmanship and remarkable patience.

Its's really coming together now are there any more major parts to be built? Are you getting near completion?

When will hit the high seas?

👍👍👍👍👍👍

Thank you very much Jumpugly.

It’s always a pleasure to such wonderful craftsmanship!😊

Good evening everyone.

I started working on the cannons again.
I'm almost done.

In the images you can see the construction phases.

The rear piece where the barrel elevation screw turns was too thin. I had to enlarge it by adding plastic in a slightly unusual way but it worked.
I made the central pin by piercing the cannon from side to side and inserting a wooden rod.
Once colored you cannot see these heterogeneities and the piece seems unique.


Now I'm finishing the locking hoists with the two two-way blocks.
I have a lot of difficulty applying the hooks because they are too small and I can't handle them.
I realize that even if the hoists can be unhooked and the cannons removed (they are held in position by a nail) the whole procedure is quite complicated and the setup before going into the water will be long.

Sorry, I'm getting confused.
I re-edited on my mistake, don't pay attention to it.

Glad to see that Colin is posting again.

Colin and Doogle thank you so much.
What a pleasure to read your messages again Colin.

Alessandro such beautiful work.
Astonishing workmanship and obviously a man with infinite patience, I'm really happy to read through this build.
Cheers Colin.

Good morning Alessandro, I don't know how you have the patience, beautiful work 👍

Thank you very much CommodoreH.

Beautiful work!

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

Good evening to all naval modelers. Painted blocks.
It was almost like going blind.

Thank you so much Len, I really appreciate your words.

Great work on the pulleys and hooks. It takes a lot of patience and skill to achieve what you have done.
Len

Thank you very much Wolle.

Good work👍👍👍

Thanks for the confirmation RossM.

. . . to confirm JUMPUGLY'S answer, from the BLUENOSE plans . . .

Great Jumpugly, I knew I could count on you.

Cathead. I have to memorize it.

It's the Cathead! I actually knew that, but wasn't sure what part of the mechanism you meant. All good. 😊
😉

I don't think it's "hawse hole block",
Here are the photos, but don't worry, it's true, it's difficult, there are a lot of seafaring terms.

That's a tough one Alessandro...could be the "hawse hole block" or the "paid out." Not too sure...post a picture of the area for me. 😊

Thanks so much Jumpugly.

You already helped me once with an English term.
Do you happen to know the name of that wooden square protruding from the bow equipped with two or three pulleys and which is used to pull up the anchor?
There were two for each ship.
If you need to see how it was made to understand what I mean you can see it in message n.92 of this same topic.

Alessandro...

Good evening to all naval modelers.

I decided to put two two-way blocks.

In 1/60 scale not all the details can be reproduced.
In fact the blocks are very small and it is not possible to show the internal pulleys as I did for the "gru di capone". (I haven't found an English translation but it's the system for raising the anchor, it's the one you see in message no. 92 of this topic).

Since the cannons must be removable the blocks must be equipped with hooks.
To make them I used 0.5 mm copper wire.
I couldn't handle them because they were too small and even with electronic tweezers I had difficulty.
The problem with copper wire (but also with brass wire) is that it is very soft and changes shape easily, therefore the hook would open at the slightest pull.
To harden the copper I decided to tin it.

Now I have to paint the copper black because I certainly can't leave it in its natural color (brass could have been fine, because it darkens over time, but certainly not copper).
I'm going to go crazy, I already know because I've already done it once. You will need a very small brush, perhaps a magnifying glass and a lot of time to just paint the copper wire without dirtying the wooden block.

I've almost finished all the components of the cannons and I'm almost ready to assemble them, I have to respect the right sequence though.

In the first photos you can see the blocks with the hooks, in the last two you can see the shaped brackets to block the cannon on the carriage.
These were made from a very thin sheet of brass cut and shaped by hand. The hardest part was the bending.

"But don't you just love the gun turrets complete with veranda?"

Yes Doug I like them and I have to start thinking about it, ahahahahah.

I agree Alessandro, not many show the rope/pulley detail so you have to look closely.
Many pics are high resolution and can be blown up real large.
But don't you just love the gun turrets complete with veranda?😍
Ciao, Doug😎

Hi Wolle, I'm very happy that you comment on my topic.
Thanks for the compliment but you have done even more complicated things.
I hope I don't disappoint you with the final result, hahahahaha.

Hi Doug, the photos on wikimedia show a lot of cannons and carriages but little or no ropes and hoists.
I based myself on your text, clear and concise.

Hello Alessandro
What a task...my head is spinning. 🤔
👍👍👍I'm excited to see the result.

Hmm!
Is it just my Windows 11, something on the website?
The Link I posted has had a Smiley added to it and of course doesn't work😠
So another try-
Change the😃to a full colon ':' and a capital 'D' (No spaces) and paste into the search window on your device. You'll find dozens of Dahlgren pics🤞
😎
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category😃ahlgren_guns

Good morning to all the naval modelers of this forum, I can always count on your help.
Thank you for the likes and comments.

For Jumpugly.
I saw the video and the link you sent me. Exceptional, full of information and details.
The piece described there, however, is much more complex than what I want to do. In addition to the gun carriage it has a sled and curved rails.
From what I know, this type is used to quickly and effectively orient the cannon in all directions, but it was designed for positions amidships or in fighter positions, not in battery.
When I designed the ship, I would have liked to put a large caliber gun amidships, with the sled and rails, but this would have made RC navigation almost impossible (due to the various openings).
For this reason I have fallen back on choosing smaller caliber guns but all in battery.
However, the images and the video were of great help to me in observing other details.
For example, now I'm considering whether to install bolted metal plates to reinforce the wheels.
Even if the system is different (there is a double hoist there) I notice that the blocks are both two-way.
Thanks so much Jumpugly.

For Doug.
I think I'll take your advice.
Now I have narrowed the choice to two solutions: either two blocks, both two-way or (as you say) double inboard and triple outboard.
I want the rope to be pulled inboard so if I choose the three/two way solution I have to put the rope attachment point on the "inboard" block, if instead I use the two/two solution the rope attachment point must be positioned on the block "outboard" (as can be seen in the first image).
I drew the pulleys of the block flat (even if they are not like that) to show the path of the rope well.
The image I am mainly referring to is the second photo attached.
It's not very clear but it seems to me that there are two blocks, both two-way (certainly not one-way).
Nor will I do two tests and see what convinces me the most.
Thanks so much Doug.

Any other information or corrections would be appreciated.

Looks to me like double inboard and possibly triple outboard.
😎

More pics here
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category😃ahlgren_guns

Plus...
https://www.histomin.com/Artillery/ACW%20Artillery/ACW%20US%2011-inch%20Dahlgren%20Naval%20Gun/acwarty%20US%2011-inch%20Dahlgren%20Naval%20Gun.htm

Alessandro:
Here is a really great build of a Dhalgren set up. It may be of some use.😊.
-- Guy.

Good evening to all naval modelers on this forum.

I've almost finished the various parts of the naval guns and I'm ready to assemble them.
Among the last things I did are the brackets that I created from a very little thickness sheet of brass. It wasn't easy because I had to first cut a 2mm wide strip, trying to be very precise.
Then I had to shape them and drill them (the round part was the most difficult) and finally paint it.
Then I inserted the photos.

I need some help.
I have to prepare the tackles for holding the cannon carriage, two for each piece.
Does anyone know exactly how they were made in that era.
Were the two blocks one-way, two-way or three-way?
If you have photos and drawings I would be grateful because they are better than any description.

I mean this indicated by the arrow. In this photo you can't understand very well.

Thank you Peejay for your interest and especially for your opinion.

I must warn you that the third and fourth images are the same coloration.
I know that in the photos they are very different but this is due to the different light exposure and the difference in the backgrounds.

Usually, when I make mixes I write down the precise numbers of colors I used and their quantities.
This way I can make them the same if I need to.
This time I tried and didn't write anything down because those Humbrols will no longer be marketed. Sorry Peejay.
But the day after tomorrow I will try to review the box of colors and remember the ones I used.

Especially the color in the 4th picture. Looks very ‘real’ to me!

It will be great to see the cannons all installed.

What did you spray over the black? I have a Constitution kit in my “retirement stash’! Need to take notes.

Greetings to all ship modelers.

I have no intention of updating the work yet because the cannons are not yet completed.
However, I wanted to show you how I colored the cannons.
I used Humbrol enamels.

In the first two photos they are painted black.
I wasn't convinced at all by the pure black, even more so by the gloss.
It doesn't matter, it was useful to me as a base to make the knurling disappear.

Therefore I created a blend that I liked instead.
You can see it in the third and fourth photos.
What do you think, does it seem right to you?




P.s. I know they look like weird lollipops hahahaha.

Colin! Fantastic experiment and discovery with the Naval Jelly! It did the same "bluing" with a rusty set of magnum wheels I had on my old Barracuda. 😉