Hi Mike, welcome back from me.
Nice to hear from you again.
Right to modeling, eh? Great job.

Hello everyone,
Finally back home, a warm hello to all of you out there!
No sooner had I arrived home than I started drawing and laser cutting my vacation ideas.
Here is my latest scriber and marker for ship hulls.
If you can afford a metal scriber, that's fine. But here they are extremely expensive.
My comment made me smile, but that soon disappeared.
You can get something like this from the Chinese too, but I suspect that the quality of their wood isn't perfect, more like bamboo. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
See for yourselves...
You are the best with all your tips and ideas!
I would like to thank you for that...
Yours, Michel-C., full of enthusiasm

Hi Roy, I'm responding to your concerns about the content of the messages and the topic of the thread.
If I translated your opening sentence correctly:
"Sorry, you're losing me on this thread. The heading is tools and equipment," you're wondering why we switched from tools to materials.

Let me explain.
The topic is actually "The tools/equipment of the ship modeler."
Initially, I wanted to know which tools you think are most useful for ship modeling.
I also asked if, in your opinion, it was possible to build an entire model with just three tools (in which case, I wanted to know which), or with five or seven.
Finally, what was your ideal complete kit?
For example, I maintain that with just three tools it's possible to build an entire model, but not design it, and as long as it's a complete kit of a static RC model.
I won't repeat all the content of the messages here (just reread them if you want to understand), but there were some very interesting, albeit conflicting, opinions.
We then added a list of tools for dynamic RC modeling.
However (note here, this is the crux of my explanation), right from the first messages, some participants included materials in addition to tools and utensils.
I didn't scold them for going off-topic (I never do because I think it's rude and impolite to do so, and because I don't consider digressions to be a negative thing in a forum), but I promised myself I'd address the topic of materials separately, at the end.
Instead of opening a separate topic, I placed it at the end of this one, but I did make one clarification.
In fact, I wrote at the beginning of my last message: "To complete the overall picture, instead of creating a separate topic, we could create a sort of spin-off on the materials used by naval modelers."
Rereading the entire topic, I still find the content of the messages very interesting.
I hope I've clarified the reason for the digression, and thank you for sharing your thoughts.

Hi Lew
You got it I one, it is to hold the commectors while soldering. A really great tool

Regards
Ed

EdW, I'm guessing it has to do with electrical (battery power) connections. I recognize the series of letters and numbers.
Lew

Hi Lew
I agree with you and Roy. There is a distinct difference between tools and materials.

Here is an unusual one for the members to guess that it is used for.

I am also lost on the object of this thread. There are so many different tools that can be used to build models. These can vary by the type of model from a basic plastic kit requiring only a few tools to a large multi material model and scratch builds requiring power tools like saws, a drill press, and possibly a lathe.

A lot of stuff suggested are materials used to as parts of models, not really "tools/equipment ".

Common sense is probably the only tool that needs to be suggested. Perhaps a more logical thread would be something like "do you have any unusual tools to build your models".

Lew

Sorry you are losing me on this thread. The heading is tools and equipment. Essentially these items will be put back in the tool box after a model is completed.

Most of the list is stores that gradually get used up as various models are built. These are accumulated as other models are built. So the accumulated items will depend on what you build.

Most tools have been mentioned, but perhaps not knife blades, I do not discard them but re-sharpen on an oil stone. I often have half an hour of sharpening blades and it is most rewarding. I have not bought cutting blades for nearly 20 years.
I store them in large jam jars sharp end down buried in hard packing foam. They are the X-Acto type and surgical knives and the ubiquitous Stanley knife, these blades sharpen very well.

There are speciality tools like a small variable angle guillotine with a razor blade cutting edge, it takes up space but excellent when cutting and laying planks on a deck

Many of the tools we use in wood and plastic modelling only need holes up to 3 or 4mm diameter and a vertical drill is useful. I have never needed big engineering tools for models although I have done courses to operate them. When necessary I have a good friend that has a workshop just 10 minutes away by car who obliges!

Roy

Right Ross, absolutely right, big oversight on my part.

. . . and for those of us that are naturally pushed around, for the static modelers, silkspan and paper and for the dynamic modelers, cotton, cotton-polyester blends, Dacron, nylon, Ripstop and more I can't remember

To complete the overall picture, instead of creating a separate topic, we could create a sort of spin-off on the materials used by naval modelers.

In my opinion, for static naval modeling, these are the most important:
glues (of various types; I use a lot of cyanoacrylate),
paints,
enamels
I don't use fillers, but many modelers do,
resins (of various types),
masking tape,
brass sheets,
brass rods,
various types and thicknesses of cordage,
white spirit,
nitro thinner,
turpentine,
electrical tape.
I won't mention wood because I use it as needed, even though I have plenty of strips and pieces of wood left over.

A dynamic naval modeler also needs solder,
various types of wire,
various connectors,
batteries of various types, voltages, and amperages,
protective grease and lubricant,
electrical tape,
heat shrink tubing,
aluminum tubing,
brass tubing,
brass and aluminum profiles,
screws of various types and sizes,
micro-bearings,
joints,
and spring steel.

Actually I did say in my post that people like us not only build but we repair as well and Torx screw driver is a useful tool with manufacturers using them more and more.
I agree with hex screws, I have just soldered a brass tiller together and used a hex screw to locate it on the rudder post. I am getting a decorative model boat to float and much to my annoyance I have had to glue down the surrounding structure, so access is difficult but I found a nice long Allen key which is a nice fit.

Roy

I find this IFIXIT set invaluable as it provides a wide range of small bits and sockets as well as a flexible extention.

Alessandro

Yes, you are right. My mind was drifting more to hex headed bolts. My mind drifts a lot these years😜

Hi Ross, sure.
You're absolutely right.
Hex keys are essential in dynamic RC ship modeling.
Besides the reason you mentioned, I can think of other uses. For example, they're used to tighten the grub screws on fixed joints (between the crankshaft and the propeller shaft).
I thought I'd already listed them. I double-checked; I'd put them between the adjustable wrench and the electrician's scissors. You translated them as Allen keys. Aren't they the same thing?

Neither torx nor cross head, I will often look for hex head screws (and hex wrenches) because they grip better in small spaces. i keep two sets of hex wrenches

Hi Roy.
You're right about the ESD.
I have some doubts about Torx wrenches.
It's true that they're very useful in general; in fact, many household appliances and even cars have Torx screws. I have two complete sets.
I've never used them for RC model boats, nor have I heard others use them, so I've left them out of the list.
If I have to choose screws to secure the deck, for example, I'd choose regular screws.
However, if you think they could also be useful for model boats, given that they're not excessively expensive, we can include them in the complete list.

With some of the stuff located lower down in your list Alessandro, implying electronics you will also need an earthing wrist band and an earth point to stop static discharge when using charge coupled integrated circuits.

Although not in the building area I am first call for anything that needs repairing, which must apply to many of our on-line friends. Even my vacuum cleaner has Torx screws, the manufacturers' way of saying do not touch!

I had to replace the battery in my Garmin Sat' Nav and you need 2 sizes of Torx for that. There are less and less people that use tools or even have them, It is possible that Government legislation in making household appliances repairable may have the knock on effect of humans using tools again.

I have not used my once very expensive twin beam oscilloscope for many years now, anyone interested?
Roy

Hello all ship modelers.

The first list I made was of all the tools useful for static ship modeling.
I think I've included everything; I've had several confirmations from you.

Let me make a clarifying digression:
In that list, I included all the tools and equipment I know of and thought would be useful.
But, mind you, I included the ones I own and the ones I'd like to own.
I wish I owned them all.
Especially the wired scroll saw (to replace the hand-held bow saw) would be a dream, along with the laser cutter.


Now, as I promised RossM, I'm writing a list (which doesn't replace but complements the first list) of useful tools and equipment for building RC scale ship models, where electronics and mechanics naturally reign supreme.

I'll also refrain from mentioning materials (tape, solder, glues, paints, heat shrink, resins, etc., etc.), which are a separate topic because they're not tools.

Screwdrivers of various sizes, cross-head and Phillips (I'm not mentioning Torx and Torx tamper-proof bits because they're unusual and unnecessary in our field).
Open-end wrenches of various sizes.
Adjustable wrench.
Allen wrenches.
Electric scissors.
Wire stripper.
Electric soldering iron with a very fine tip for electronics (600 watts)
Manual solder sucker.
Soldering station.
Pliers, tweezers, and wire cutters are already included in the first list.
Benchtop power supply (also serves as a battery charger).
Multimeter (voltmeter, ammeter, thermometer, etc.)
Digital oscilloscope.
Clamp meter.
Transistor tester.
Lipo battery charger.
Universal battery charger.
Third hand with the aforementioned magnifying glass.
Electronics mat.
Heat-shrink dryer.
Connector crimping tool.
Servo and ESC tester.
Spectrum analyzer (but too expensive).
Metal sandpaper.

Alessandro
There is a free version of Fusion 360 available to home users. I had used other CAD packages at work but they were too expensive when I went on pension. That is why I converted to Fusion 360. I found excellent tutorials on YouTube and used those by alarms Christensen as they were very good.
Regards
Ed

Thanks for the info, Edw.

I'm very interested in this technology, even though my first experience was very negative.
The person who cut the pieces for me wasn't very familiar with the machine, or it was defective.
In any case, the pieces ended up with too many burned edges.

Many people have spoken highly of Fusion 360; I'll have to try it out someday.

I think our Swiss friend Mike Stoney is the most advanced in this field.

When you make something with the laser cutter, I'd appreciate it if you could illustrate the results with pictures and comments.

Alessandro
I have not used my laser cutter in anger yet.
I use Fusion 360 for 3D design and SolidEdge 2D for 2D design. For laser cutting I intend using LightBurn which can take SGV or DXF.
I intend to use something like Vectorizer to convert image files to SVG.

Further down the line when I was getting on for 11 I was allowed to use a card table, by then I was making small rubber powered model aircraft. My father said I better have his old wet razor, razor blades as even a sharp pen knife was not the best way to cut balsa wood.

I was only allowed to make models after I had done my homework, which did vary a lot. My dad bought me a coping saw which I still have and use so that must be 70 odd years old now, and the design is still the same.
In recent times the scroll saw (Hegnar) is used and most useful is my small circular saw Proxxon, it has an A4 footprint, great little machine.
Roy

A PC is essential for the way I work because I produce all my own drawings and print them out. OK, not essential as I had over 40 years working on a drawing board so I could manage! But I far prefer using the PC for drawing and it makes some operations so much easier and less tiresome.

I'm having to think of tools from memory as we are away for a few days but just thought of some more. My sets of small spanners, hex drivers and socket drivers.

When I first started out I had the benefit of a good supply of DIY tools but soon realised I needed a lot of smaller stuff. If I'd started earlier I'd liked to have got a small engineering lathe but can't justify one now as it wouldn't get much use for my types of builds and the number left that I want to build.

I totally agree with you Wolle.

I think that today, ship modeling or not, we are all a bit dependent on the PC or smartphone.

And for the RC sector, the charger is of course a must.
I can charge all types of batteries with this one. Of course, this also includes all possible plug variants.

I agree chum. I somehow managed to just about get by without assistance from the ether(net), not sure how but back then we were a hardy bunch!

My first memories of making models was sitting at the top of the stairs where there was a little 'landing' I could use to work on. Never managed to ascend to the grandeur of the 'Kitchen table'.
Roy

I absolutely did not think of indicating that a PC or tablet is absolutely a necessity if you are a scratch or 3/4 scratch builder like me. Absolutely essential tool to speak with builder of the 1:1 for the model you are building. Also for finding photos & plans.

This was a most enjoyable topic to read through the various tools/equipment and computer aided too.

Mostly I do scratch building which requires the use of woodworking power equipment in my work area, especially when the arthritic hand joints act up. Carving tools are not for me much now.( See carvings)

I use this refurbished bench bandsaw, the scroll-saw, drill press, and battery powered drill, and a 1 belt/ 4” disc sander. The belt/disc sander helps to shape parts.

Did I mention storage? Files? Rulers?

My shop area has a hot/cold water clean-up laundry tub for quick cleaning of brushes and hands. It will also work for a ballast test tank for models 24” or smaller.

Hi Ross, your point is very interesting. What you say is absolutely true: the PC can be central and crucial to modern modeling, especially if shared.

Hi Edw, the laser cutter is a simply fantastic purchase, I envy you. Congratulations on your complete set-up.
If I had a laser cutter or a jigsaw (the one in Wolle's photo, perhaps from Proxon), I think I'd be building hulls of all kinds all the time (without finishing the rest of the ship, just hulls, hahahaha).
Just curious, Ed, do you design and plan the shapes yourself that you then cut with the laser cutter, or do you acquire ready-made files?
If so, in what formats (extensions)?

And as Wolle mentioned, a soldering iron or station, blow torch, hot air dryer for heatshrink.

Extensive list there Alessandro. Others that spring to mind are hole saws and amongst the power tools belt sanders. I managed fine without the latter for many builds but found them very useful for the hull of my Fisherman. Our predecessors managed without power tools and built some fantastic things never mind model boats!

For transferring to ply, other drawing tools like curves, French curves and dressmakers curves are very useful.

Having just bought a laser cutter, I now have Alessandro’s complete power tool list.

Alessandro,

In scratch build the first tool I would require is #8 on your machine tool list, the PC.

Not for the reason that you might use it, 2D & 3D drawing. I haven't advanced to the stage where I can do my own drawings, yet.

I live in a small community where the supplies I need are not available. As most of you may agree, the internet has opened up the world's supply chains so that you may find EXACTLY what you need. Also with the internet, I would not have been able to progress as far as I have without the encouragement and knowledge of those of you that have gone before me. I have been around the world without leaving my home.

As I said, I am not of the ability yet to use the drawing programmes. What I do use is EXCEL. I have used EXCEL for years, for costing and pricing, so I am very familiar with it. For computing CENTRE OF EFFORT, LATERAL CENTRE OF PRESSURE, CENTRE OF BOUYANCY, CENTRE OF GRAVITY, it is very convenient. I did this series of calculations decades ago with a slide rule. It was fun then.

Also with the PC is the SCANNER. To reach across to the BUILDING FROM PLANS thread, the plans that I received in the mail were for a vessel half the size of what I wanted to build. It was a simple process to double the size of the plans. If the pattern was damaged or destroyed in the construction phase, I could simply print out a new copy of the pattern. The original copy of the plans never had to be near the construction phase. With disposible patterns I could simply tape them on the wood and cut away.

Alessandro, the list you provided would also be my ultimate list, after the PC.

Third part of message

Well, without going into further steps, I'll tell you what I think are all the useful tools for a static modeler (I'm not even talking about the dynamic part yet).

1. A cutter.
2. Sandpaper (various grits from 80 to 240)
3. Pencils (HB, 2b to 6b), erasers, and a sharpener.
4. Small-toothed hacksaw (like a hacksaw for iron).
5. Set squares, ruler, straightedge, protractor, and compass.
6. Lath bender.
7. Hand drill (with a set of bits from tenths of a millimeter to three millimeters).
8. Jigsaw (fret saw).
9. Sewing needles.
10. Regular scissors.
11. Tailor's scissors for cutting sails.
13. Medium wire cutters.
14. Small wire cutters.
15. Micro electronics wire cutters.
16. Model tweezers.
17. Medium flat-nose tweezers.
18. Long flat-nose tweezers.
19. Standard pliers.
20. Mini electronics tweezers.
21. Set of files (for working with brass and metals).
22. Awl or graver.
23. Plastic and metal clips and clips of various sizes.
23A. Threading machine for metal or alloy pipes.
24. Vice.
25. Clamping brackets.
26. Metal squares with level (right angle).
26A. Permanent markers and nibs.
27. Magnifying glass.
28. Paintbrushes of various sizes.
29. Chisels of various sizes.
29A. Twenty-second caliper.
30. LED spotlight.
31. Work mat.
32. Nail driver.
33. Plane.
34. Hairpin tools.
35. Pipe bender.
36. Third hands (crocodiles fixed to a heavy base) with magnifying glass.
37 airbrush

I'm sure I've forgotten something, but I'll figure it out.
If I've left something out, please add it.

Power tools (I'll also list some I don't have but would like to have):

1. Electric scroll saw (corded jigsaw).
2. Drill press.
3. Dremel-type multipurpose drill (inexpensive, compact, very useful for a thousand purposes, easy to use, relatively safe. THE BEST PURCHASE in my opinion)
3A. Grinding wheel.
3B. Jigsaw.
3C. Circular saw.
3D. Drill/driver with right-angle adaptor
4. Lathe.
5. Milling machine.
6. Laser cutter.
7. 3D printer.
8. PC with at least one drawing program (2D and 3D).

Tomorrow I'll make my list of tools for the dynamic RC model, but first I want to wait for Ross and the others'.

second part of the message


From the minimalist set of five tools, I choose the following:

1. A cutter (taglierino).
2. Sandpaper.
3. Pencil.
4. Small-toothed hacksaw (like a hacksaw for metal).
5. Set square.

From the minimalist set of seven tools, I add:
6. Lath bender.
7. Hand drill (with a set of bits ranging from tenths of a millimeter to three millimeters).

Of course, if you want to move from the kit to a model built almost from scratch or even from scratch (drawing the project yourself), the tools and utensils increase.

Hello, all naval modelers.

I really enjoyed reading your replies, even the ironic ones like the magnifying glass.
Especially knowing your construction skills and concrete results (just look at your finished or under-construction naval models), I really appreciate your opinions.
There are conflicting opinions, but also many commonalities.
In fact, I don't view differences as negative; on the contrary, they're the truth.
Differences are the basis of discussions and knowledge.

RossM, I'm glad you respected the division, but you're welcome to share your opinion on the dynamic RC part whenever you like.
Your opinion is always welcome and authoritative.

This is what I think:
So, if I had to choose just three tools for building a static naval model supplied in a kit, I would choose:

1. A cutter (a ruffler).
2. Sandpaper.
3. Pencil.

The cutter doesn't require a photo or any specific specifications.
It does the job of a hacksaw and scissors if necessary, but it's irreplaceable.
It doesn't need sharpening.

If I had to choose just one type, I'd opt for 200-grit sandpaper, slightly more or less. Coarse enough to remove wood but fine enough to refine surfaces.

A pencil is indispensable for marking out measurements, while the strips themselves can be used as an alternative to a ruler or set square.

With just these three tools, I think anyone can build a static model kit.
Of course, I'm only talking about tools, since I have all the materials (like glue, paint, etc.) at hand.
It should be noted that kits generally include everything you need.
The keel and frames are already laser-cut.
I made my first kit improvised and minimalistically, but it was clear from the start that if I wanted to continue with this hobby, I'd need more tools.

Sorry, but for translation reasons I'm splitting this post into three parts...

Looking forward to that RossM as all my models are scratch built!

Good discussion topic Alessandro but 3, 5 or even 7 essential tools aren't enough. I've lost track of how many I've got now after only a few years in the hobby! What you have depends so much on what and how you build.

For instance I use quite a bit of planking and so a little bench saw could be deemed essential but I tend to just buy the planking already cut.

A battery a spare servo and pairing loop (if needed) to bind your receivers to your transmitter

Alessandro,

Let us know when you widen out the discussion to scratch built RC models, I have a different tool for that topic😉

A dremel is a very goot tools to have about along with a multimeter for tracing electric faults

It's funny but I built most of my Faireys with the minimum of tools, being new to the hobby. My most expensive and pretty much essential being a scroll saw which has earned its keep many times over. Other tools being PermaGrit blocks and files and razor saws.

With my recent builds I've added a number of Proxxon tools which are nice to have rather than being essential, but why not! I think a disc sander could be on the list at some point even though I've managed without one so far!

Chris

Then I also need a soldering station, a small circular saw and a Proxxon scroll saw.
A disc sander and a paper cutter, which should actually go in the bin at work. I saved it and it works perfectly, it also cuts small wooden mouldings and has an integrated ruler.

To what others have said, I would add a mini pair of 30° 60° 90° & 45° 45° 90° triangles. With those you can strike any angle you need & transfer parallel lines. I would also add a sturdy pair of dividers. Very helpful to determine centerlines. A combination inside/outside micrometer is invaluable for shaft/stuffing tube work as well as determining hole sizes to drill for rail stanchions, etc.
Oh! Almost forgot; a pencil & a large eraser. 😁

patience(memory.. where did I put that) ...good magnifiers🤓 good websites getting old sux
cheers all!

Yes, Roy is right. A Dremel is very important.
With flexible shaft.

I would add in a 'wood worker's right angle in alluminium the flat version. My rulers are wearing out going rusty like me. Next trip to B&Q I will get some, mainly the 6 and 12 inch types.

I recently bought a flexible drive for my Dremel not the Dremel version but a cheap one arouns £6 or so, seems to work OK but would like to fit different size collets.

For doing repairs on small items Torx screw driver bits are very useful but there are a lot of different sizes.
Roy

I agree with Cashrc “ Xacto knife, sanding block, aluminum ruler, 60 watt plus soldering iron, drill, metric and standard Allen wrenches, small screwdriver set.” I will add a small block plane, Dremel style tool, various sizes of clamps, various adhesives, masking tape, wire bender, wire cutter, pliers, forceps various sizes, round toothpicks, small containers (pill bottles) yogurt containers, multiple sizes of paint brushes, cleaner, paints and clear finishes.