I will build the prototype Sprite Plus with a conventional shaft drive (already bought the prop-shaft !) and look forward to seeing how it performs.

An outboard powered version would be nice too….but that will have to be for “another day” (after I have seen how yours performs!).

You can also get on and build yourself a Remora now and enjoy its spectacular performance - already fully developed and ready to go (once built).

Bob.

Yes, that's the one Bob. I've used Noahs Ark for my waterjet and they were very good to deal with.

Unfortunately there's not much available out there now.

Is this the sort of outboard motor that you had in mind to power your Sprite Plus ?

https://www.noahsrcark.co.uk/products/j9285998e8/131444000001375672?srsltid=AfmBOooYtPn1YIOgjXR2MMwAKT7L52CHs7FVqmpYR_4uVXcio_r4fRgv

https://www.noahsrcark.co.uk/products/j9285998e8/131444000001375672




Bob.

That looks really good Chris - absolutely superb!

Now that design really does suit an outboard motor very very nicely.

I am really tempted to find out a bit more about where I can find a motor that size as I think it would make a lovely model.

When I was very young I used to look at the small electric outboard motors in the Keil Kraft catalogues and wondered about fitting one onto the EzeeBilt Cresta speed boat……but my pocket money wouldn’t stretch that far……

Outboard motors on an r/c model boat have always fascinated me - but now maybe with your Sprite Plus that dream could become a reality!

Bob.

Like this? 😀

Advantage of using the Sprite Plus is that I've already got the drawings for the original version. I shall have to stick with the 30" length now to suit the size of the outboard but that's fine. I'd already started modifying them to suit the building off a flat deck method and am working on modifying the stern for the outboard now along with some other tweaks.

Have you tried a cut and paste with the TFL outboard on the Sprite Plus?

I think it would look really good with the split “V” windscreen feature added.

Bob.

I know what you're saying Bob but part of the attraction of builds for me is doing something different (for me that is), doing the drawings and seeing how it works out.

After building something with a stern-drive and having the water-jet project on the cards, something with an outboard has always been something I wanted to do. Nearly did it with the Faun but was unsure about the little outboards I have and I fancied doing an inboard conversion as per some of the full-sized craft.

But with a bigger outboard no problem, though it needs a "faster" hull and after watching your Remora video thought it would be the ideal candidate. I did think about using the Sprite Plus initially but then thought of the Remora, which as well having a good performing hull has more flowing superstructure which I think goes better with an outboard. I might turn it into more of a speedboat look?

Despite doing other things and doing a bit more on the Faun I have spent the odd hour on Sprite B Plus and will have a play with the Remora drawing. Obviously nothing is set in stone and I have an open mind at the moment - but an outboard project is calling me more and more! 😀

But I really shouldn't even be thinking about new projects! 🤔

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder .

Personally I think the Remora is such a perfect boat to drive that it would be a shame to risk spoiling the best driving boat that you “nearly had”.

On the other hand, I think that the outboard motor would look superb on the Sprite Plus, and is even something that I would be very tempted to try for myself !

Bob.

Quick cut and paste showing a TFL outboard. I'm using their water-jet in my project of that name.

It's a big motor at 173 mm high and 1/8 scale but it's bevel drive. Remora would need to stick at a minimum of 30" to suit the motor which I think it just about gets away with.

It's fitted with a 3660 brushless so will have good performance! 😀

I was intrigued by you saying that Remora is wider than the Sprite Plus as that looks wide and indeed the Remora is wider, blimey.

As I mentioned on your other thread though (unless I do a quick and simple build first) the main interest for me is the hull design and my intention would be to fit it with an outboard - you know I can't help myself! 😀

No problem looking at the Remora Chris, it is a superb model boat.

Although designed by Vic Smeed as a “steering boat” back in 1973, it’s wide beam and shallow hull perform fantastically well with modern proportional radio and powerful brushless motors!

The boat has no vices, it is fast, very stable and “turns on a sixpence”.

The Remora will be wider than your Sprite Plus and so from that point of view it is a bigger boat, but its shallow hull helps with its very light weight.

The superb steering comes from its forward steering post position and its (currently unfashionable) wide rudder (both fore and aft of its axle).

Many of the things that have been suggested as causing the handling problems on my Sea Commander work well on the Remora!

It has a wide rudder blade and runs exactly the same motor that shoves my Rapier along nicely, so it handles the torque very well (no sign of it !).

Get one built — you will love it 👍

Bob.

I'll have to whisper this! But I've been looking at the Remora plans! Only looking of course! 😁

I can well imagine that the adding of detail, making things as realistic as possible probably takes up nearly as much time as the main construction, maybe even more.

A majority of people won't even know what a Sprite is. Some may have seen an image of one in one of the model boating magazines of that time, but a majority will probably be none the wiser as to what it is.

Thanks Will. Yes, it is a pretty simple and basic build. I might plank the deck but that will be done in straight planks, unlike with the Faireys, which was fiddly and time consuming. Actually, thinking about it I've got some laser etched ply decking which will be ideal and quick.

Other than that it's best to keep detailing to a minimum which is where the time goes.

Subtle/slight changes, and see how many people actually notice/realise. 😎

Yes, I was thinking it would be going back to a similar size to the original Sprite but even making it a few inches bigger will make a difference.

My work won't be wasted as my Sprite B Plus 😁 will incorporate the changes such as the cockpit and I may still adopt the fixed superstructure!

Sprite+ looks really good Chris, it also appears that it could be a pretty basic build.(not that I know anything about building model boats) 😐
Shouldn't take you two seasoned modelers long to build one.
I'm looking forward to seeing/hearing how well they perform and handle with modern running gear etc, especially the plus sided one.

Will

That looks good Chris,

If you fancy a smaller version with a flat deck, it will be more or less back to the original LesRo size.

The Remora does drive really well, but it is a similar 30” size boat to the Sprite Plus.

It is a much smaller boat to the Sea Commander even though it is only 4 inches shorter so your Spite Plus might work out OK for your smaller sized lake?

The Southport lake is not very big, but I think the Sprite Plus will be a perfect size to run on it.

……and it would be a shame if you not to take advantage of the work you have put in on the new improved Sprite Plus…

Bob.

All printed out now and taping the larger pieces together.

As our lake is quite small I'm going to build a smaller version, around 25/26" and make the construction simpler by building off a flat deck. I can always form some camber to the deck afterwards with timber strips or balsa. And it will have a removable superstructure.

As I'm typing I'm even thinking of an outboard version 😁 as that's something I want to do along with the water-jet project. But that's moving away from the simplicity and quick build so maybe not, we shall see. 🤔
I think the Remora hull might make a better candidate anyway! 😁
Anyway, that's enough drawing for now as I need to progress my builds. I'm also doing a drawing of a full-size aircraft for a friend who's writing a book so I've got that to do as well.

It should be a nice size Chris.

Yesterday the ESC on my Sea Commander suddenly stopped working and left the boat just out of reach of the clubs recovery poles, so I used the Remora to push her back to shore.

The flat front on the (similar sized) Sprite Plus would have made this same recovery operation a tad easier!

Bob.

I accidently ended up printing the keel the opposite way to what I intended so that only leaves the cabin/cockpit sides so I may as well print both hands of them as well now!

It's looking a big model at 30" but obviously much smaller than some of your others like Rapier. Mind you I thought that when I printed out my Swordsman drawings but once built it looks smaller! 😀

No problem at all Chris - looking forward to seeing them and getting started.👍

The angle decks look good - much better than flat.

Bob.

Hi Bob

Just printing the parts off and you should get them during the week.

Are you happy to have the symmetrical parts like the cabin/cockpit sides as one rather than mirror images? No problem for a big printer but with A3 I'm having to print the bigger parts and views over multiple sheets and tape them together.

Frames printed off first to see how they look.

Thanks Chris, that sounds really good 👍

I have not previously see any pictures of your construction technique of screwing the extended keel tags against a block of wood, so I found that quite interesting.

The prototype Sprite Plus will be probably be built with my usual “free-floating” construction method with the keel clamped into a vice as the interlocking cabin sides will help to align everything and keep it all nice and square.

The tags that you have added to the bottom of the bulkheads will also give me the opportunity to make a building board jig like I used on the H&N Wavemaster so that could well be a future experiment to compare the effectiveness of the two different construction methods.

The jig would certainly ensure that the alignment was automatically correct and it would also make for fast production of any duplicate models.

Bob.

Okey dokey. I'll add the extension pieces and then you've got the option of doing either way then.

I've used the "fingers" on the keel method on a number of my Faireys having read on another forum how a guy used a spine on his builds. It works quite well but is extra cutting out and work. First three photos are my Swordsman build.

I've also used the extension pieces now when I built the hull for the Fisherman being as it's plank on frame - last photo.

When I build my Sprite Plus I may adopt my usual removable superstructure (with some fixings or magnets! 🤔) and build upside down off a flat deck as per my Huntress build (as per the 3rd photo) or maybe do that with a fixed superstructure, we shall see, good to have options!

It will be good to see you building the prototype albeit it slightly nerve wracking as I haven't done a test build. But it won't be a problem for you and no doubt you will make changes as you go along as I tend to do. All part of the fun!

I don't have a good copy shop close by either. The one I used to use for my architectural drawings is a good few miles away and closer to where I used to work. But as I've done some of the drawing in colour which makes some of the parts easier to see, I'll probably print off on my A3 printer and tape the larger parts together as I did with the Stiletto/Rapier offshoot drawings, which I can then roll up in a small tube rather than fold up as required with big A1 etc. drawings.

Hi Chris,

My usual method of assembly is the traditional method of “flying by the seat of the pants” (when compared with your advanced methods described here ) 🙄

I prick through the plans (sorry!) onto cereal packet cardboard and mark the centre lines of every bulkhead and any other part that needs to be symetrical..

The centre lines are scribed so that the template can fold and be checked to make sure it is totally symetrical before cutting.

I then draw around each card template onto the wood to be cut and double check the size of every cut-out to fit the keel and stringer sizes that I will be using and adjust if necessary.

The plywood parts are then cut out on the bandsaw and the doublers added to the keel.

The keel is clamped (right way up) into a vice just to hold it while the bulkheads are slotted onto the keel along with any other parts that fit onto it and are glued in place. (Picture enclosed of my Kopy Kommander being built this way).

The mark one eyeball is used to make sure everything is aligned correctly before the aliphatic glue has dried.

Cabin sides can also be fitted into the bulkheads at this stage as they form part of the interlocking “jig” that helps to keep everything square.

Adding the stringers and skins complete the hull before assembling the cabin tops etc .

I have also built an original H&M Wavemaster 34 after making the jig to fit all the bulkheads into it and then slotted the keel into them.

This is the only boat that I have ever built using the upside-down assembly method that your tags would permit and I did think it worked well so adding these tags to your drawing would permit either assembly method to be used.

Jig “alignment guides” (strips of wood) could also be screwed onto a flat surface to make a jig to drop these bulkheads into to ensure perfect alignment (ala H&M method) and also make it very fast to produce duplicate hulls if the jig is kept safe.

I built my Wavemaster jig onto a 3/4” thick plywood strip that I had just bought as a shelf to store my stock of wood onto.

This shelf is still being used with the jig “alignment guides” still fixed onto the underside so it could easily be used multiple times over.

I cut several strips of this new thick plywood to make several shelves from, so I could easily use another “shelf” to convert into a jig to make my Sprite Plus on…….and then turn it upside-down after use and return it to its shelf duties supporting my birch ply and hardwood strips !

I have not tried your method of screwing a keel with temporary fingers onto a baton (or similar) but think I would personally prefer the previously mentioned options……so tags please - I may even try both assembly options and build a pair !

Your profile drawing looks really good…..and will be even better with the angled front screen halves fitted.👍

My M5 Maxi-shaft and 5mm Maxi-couplings have arrived so I am ready to go!

I have some suitable out-runners (and in-runners) ready to drop into the water-cooled motor mount that I have ready to fit so I can test and try any number of alternative motor types/sizes to see what works best to making white water and pushing stranded boats.

Lots of power sounds right for both 😂🤣😂

Nice work Chris - just in time for the cold winter hours to be spent in my wooden workshop (shed) building it. 🤣

Bob.

Bob, the finishing line is in sight!

What is your usual modus operandi for building? I've got the frames drawn up but can easily add extension pieces for building upside down and fixed to a building board.

Or, a method I often use is to have some temporary "fingers" on the keel for screwing to a batten for building right way up, then turning over, removing the fingers and fitting the skins.

Be interesting to see how fixing the bottom hull skins go as there is quite a change in angle to the hull bottom and the bow curves up between Frames 1 and 2.

PS. I've included the angled front window but not shown on the side view.

I love the "engineered" looking solution that LewZ has developed and fitted to his boat to convert it for rescue missions.

Absolutely brilliant Lew - nice work 👍

Something along these lines for use on the Sprite Plus would be very elegant indeed.

Since neither of us can 3D print anything Chris, we will have to make-up something like this structure using more conventional (olde fashioned) construction techniques with "sticks and glue".

Once the Sprite Plus plans are completed and the prototype construction is under way, maybe the next project could be a "pusher frame" to fit it ?

If we make the flat "punt nose" from 6mm plywood we could fit some of those threaded inserts into it that could be used to bolt the "rescue frame" to it when needed or the conventional nose for "sports" use when making white water !

Bob.

Quote:-

"You've shown that the nose doesn't have to be blunt to use as a rescue boat. I think Bob was just using that as an excuse to build a Sprite!"

You know me so well Chris.😂

Bob.

Hi All
A section of pool round foam noodle can be cut to fit the bow of the Sprite and held on by rubber bands.
Harry

Thanks Lew, that's a similar fixing method to what I was thinking and 3D printing the whole thing is a more elegant soution. Like the disguised fixings as well.

That design, adapted for Sprite, would be just the job, though I think ours will be in timber.

You've shown that the nose doesn't have to be blunt to use as a rescue boat. I think Bob was just using that as an excuse to build a Sprite! And a good one at that!

As we have enlarged the design and the nose is quite wide now, we may well need not to add anything other than some rubber padding?

Bob, here (photos) is what I made as our club's rescue boat. I designed it to fit the boat and 3D printed it with some rubber padding added. Easy to remove with the two screws going into brass inserts mounted in the thickened deck. I know this is not a blunt "nose", but shows it can be done regardless of the bow shape.

Lew

That is good news Chris,

I am popping home for a couple of days so I will see if I can change the bandsaw blade and get the saw set up ready for cutting some fresh plywood.

Making the prototype over the colder weeks will be good - it’s always nice to cut fresh wood for a change from the endless (self inflicted) restoration work!

Enjoy your weekend !

Bob.

Hi Bob

Just came on to do a bit of an update, so timely. I did have a few thoughts on how it could be modified for recovery early on but I thought I'd get the basic design drawn up first. I did mention recovery arms/claw at the start but that's probably not very practicable for different sized boats and so something simpler is going to be the best option. As you say something like those on a pusher tug or maybe a horizontal push bar. As for mounting, one thought was to have a couple of upturned bolts glued in place just behind the nose with the bar(s) on a bracket that could be fitted over the bolts and secured with butterfly nuts? Or less visually intrusive glue a couple of nuts in place for screwing bolts into?

As for progress. All frames now drawn up and adding some finishing touches to the plan view for construction. Still got the front window to draw and the cockpit/coaming sides though the shape of the latter is done. It's been a lot of work and therefore time as I've basically had to redraw the whole thing with the increase in size, different construction and the addition of the frames.

Been worth it though, as it's been fun (I like a bit of drawing!) and I shall definitely build one when I have time during the winter. So different to my Faireys.

Got friends staying for a long weekend, so it won't be finished until after then, but hopefully it will be towards the end of next week.

Looking forward to seeing you building the prototype and hopefully it builds without problems.

I was wondering if it would be possible to devise a removable pair of vertical push bars (like a pusher tug) that could be replaced with the punt nose as required.

…something to think about as I put a prototype Spite Plus together …….maybe………maybe not !

The plywood “flat front” to the hull would have the shaped balsa wood (could be closed cell rubber ?) nose glued onto it….but maybe I could also devise something detachable that could hold a push frame…..or maybe not….

Bob.

Good to know that you were safe Lew - that is the main thing as you cannot be replaced - but everything else can be 👍

Bob.

Yes Bob. It was the worst storm we have ever had in the 60+ years I have been living in Florida. After replacing all the flooring and windows plus other work we are dry. Still trying to get things sorted out. We lived through the nightmare waking up to water on the floors, slipping and falling and hope no one has to go through anything like this. However, others have experienced much more damage. Five houses down from us a house burned completely to a concrete wall shell during this storm. Fire rescue could not respond because of weather conditions.
Lew

That must have been quite a flood Lew, I hope everything has dried-out OK.

I am also hoping that I don’t get the chance to test drive my Sprite Plus around my home, I would rather keep its use to designated boating areas 😂

Bob.

Rod, could be. In my case (during Hurricane Milton) I could have ran my boats up and down the street and completely around my house, across the pond, and up into my garage (new harbor?). I had about 4-5 inches of water in it so all my boats except the sailboats could maneuver in it.
Lew

Lew, is this Florida?

Well done Chris.

The Remora hull is not much different to the Sprite in hull type and that drives and steers beautifully so “fingers crossed”, your Sprite Plus could be a “belter” 👍

Bob.

Making steady progress and have 7 of the 9 frames drawn up now. Few other pieces to draw and will then check that the frames (the most important part!) are correct.

It will be an interesting model to build despite its relative simplicity and should be fun on the water but I have a feeling that it won't be at such high speeds as with the Rapier! Reason being it it is a fairly shallow vee hull that runs all the way to the bow and of course it is wide at the bow as well and I think it will be prone to porpoising/ hopping when speeds increase and/or encountering any waves?

Only guessing of course and we shall see but it will be fun anyway and different looking and have the dual purpose for recovery if needed.

Hi Ed,

I like the way you have made your end bearing housing as an external fitting rather than a press-fit internal plain bearing.

This would make it much easier to change the shaft bearing on the motor end of the shaft without having to remove the shaft tube from the hull, and it gives you the option of fitting a ball bearing or a plain bearing too 👍

I am guessing that you have the usual problem with trying to extract the internal press-fit bearing from the propeller end of the shaft when it needs changing?

One of my boats has some slight “play” in this prop-end bearing so I would like to try to replace it “in-situ” rather than removing the shaft tube from the hull (as I have previously always done).

I will cut my next silver steel prop shafting thread without annealing it first. I have an M5 HSS die so I will give it a go.

Bob.

Hi Bob,
I had two 1m lengths of 4mm in my “stock” and bought 10 12” lengths recently.
I have never found a need to anneal silver steel, cut the thread in the lathe using a tailstock die holder.
I use brass for my prop end bearings and phosphor bronze or a roller bearing on the motor end.
I normally fit a grease nipple as well.

Regards
Ed

Royal Mail in the UK was sold to a Czech multi millionaire.
The service is going downhill as fast as the prices are going up.😡

In Canada addressed ad-mail is a great income stream for our postoffice...or as you call it, "junk mail".
Businesses pay less than 1st class letter postage, but they get a volume discount.🤔

But the junk mail keeps coming at the US taxpayers expense here. We gat a lot of days where we just get junk mail only only to throw it away. What a waste.
Lew

Thanks Bob. I'm oldfashioned in that i actually handwrite letters & send them in the mail. I also write cheques, do calligraphy, & surprise people with gifts in their mailbox.
My ex-wife lives in farm country & actually mails me fresh produce which is very inexpensive at the farm stands.

Bad news RodC,

I hope your labour strifes in Canada 🇨🇦 are resolved quickly so you can return to a normal postal delivery as soon as possible .

Bob.

Our postal system is 99% shutdown by labour strife, so nobody is getting anything...unless you are entitled to a social assistance cheque...the Union has agreed to continue delivering those.