Yes Bob. It was the worst storm we have ever had in the 60+ years I have been living in Florida. After replacing all the flooring and windows plus other work we are dry. Still trying to get things sorted out. We lived through the nightmare waking up to water on the floors, slipping and falling and hope no one has to go through anything like this. However, others have experienced much more damage. Five houses down from us a house burned completely to a concrete wall shell during this storm. Fire rescue could not respond because of weather conditions.
Lew
Yes Bob. It was the worst storm we have ever had in the 60+ years I have been living in Florida. After replacing all the flooring and windows plus other work we are dry. Still trying to get things sorted out. We lived through the nightmare waking up to water on the floors, slipping and falling and hope no one has to go through anything like this. However, others have experienced much more damage. Five houses down from us a house burned completely to a concrete wall shell during this storm. Fire rescue could not respond because of weather conditions.
Lew
Lew
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
That must have been quite a flood Lew, I hope everything has dried-out OK.
I am also hoping that I don’t get the chance to test drive my Sprite Plus around my home, I would rather keep its use to designated boating areas 😂
Bob.
Rod, could be. In my case (during Hurricane Milton) I could have ran my boats up and down the street and completely around my house, across the pond, and up into my garage (new harbor?). I had about 4-5 inches of water in it so all my boats except the sailboats could maneuver in it.
Lew
Rod, could be. In my case (during Hurricane Milton) I could have ran my boats up and down the street and completely around my house, across the pond, and up into my garage (new harbor?). I had about 4-5 inches of water in it so all my boats except the sailboats could maneuver in it.
Lew
Lew
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Lew, is this Florida?
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Well done Chris.
The Remora hull is not much different to the Sprite in hull type and that drives and steers beautifully so “fingers crossed”, your Sprite Plus could be a “belter” 👍
Bob.
The Remora hull is not much different to the Sprite in hull type and that drives and steers beautifully so “fingers crossed”, your Sprite Plus could be a “belter” 👍
Making steady progress and have 7 of the 9 frames drawn up now. Few other pieces to draw and will then check that the frames (the most important part!) are correct.
It will be an interesting model to build despite its relative simplicity and should be fun on the water but I have a feeling that it won't be at such high speeds as with the Rapier! Reason being it it is a fairly shallow vee hull that runs all the way to the bow and of course it is wide at the bow as well and I think it will be prone to porpoising/ hopping when speeds increase and/or encountering any waves?
Only guessing of course and we shall see but it will be fun anyway and different looking and have the dual purpose for recovery if needed.
Making steady progress and have 7 of the 9 frames drawn up now. Few other pieces to draw and will then check that the frames (the most important part!) are correct.
It will be an interesting model to build despite its relative simplicity and should be fun on the water but I have a feeling that it won't be at such high speeds as with the Rapier! Reason being it it is a fairly shallow vee hull that runs all the way to the bow and of course it is wide at the bow as well and I think it will be prone to porpoising/ hopping when speeds increase and/or encountering any waves?
Only guessing of course and we shall see but it will be fun anyway and different looking and have the dual purpose for recovery if needed.
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
Hi Ed,
I like the way you have made your end bearing housing as an external fitting rather than a press-fit internal plain bearing.
This would make it much easier to change the shaft bearing on the motor end of the shaft without having to remove the shaft tube from the hull, and it gives you the option of fitting a ball bearing or a plain bearing too 👍
I am guessing that you have the usual problem with trying to extract the internal press-fit bearing from the propeller end of the shaft when it needs changing?
One of my boats has some slight “play” in this prop-end bearing so I would like to try to replace it “in-situ” rather than removing the shaft tube from the hull (as I have previously always done).
I will cut my next silver steel prop shafting thread without annealing it first. I have an M5 HSS die so I will give it a go.
Bob.
I like the way you have made your end bearing housing as an external fitting rather than a press-fit internal plain bearing.
This would make it much easier to change the shaft bearing on the motor end of the shaft without having to remove the shaft tube from the hull, and it gives you the option of fitting a ball bearing or a plain bearing too 👍
I am guessing that you have the usual problem with trying to extract the internal press-fit bearing from the propeller end of the shaft when it needs changing?
One of my boats has some slight “play” in this prop-end bearing so I would like to try to replace it “in-situ” rather than removing the shaft tube from the hull (as I have previously always done).
I will cut my next silver steel prop shafting thread without annealing it first. I have an M5 HSS die so I will give it a go.
Bob.
Never too old to learn
Hi Bob,
I had two 1m lengths of 4mm in my “stock” and bought 10 12” lengths recently.
I have never found a need to anneal silver steel, cut the thread in the lathe using a tailstock die holder.
I use brass for my prop end bearings and phosphor bronze or a roller bearing on the motor end.
I normally fit a grease nipple as well.
Regards
Ed
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Hi Bob,
I had two 1m lengths of 4mm in my “stock” and bought 10 12” lengths recently.
I have never found a need to anneal silver steel, cut the thread in the lathe using a tailstock die holder.
I use brass for my prop end bearings and phosphor bronze or a roller bearing on the motor end.
I normally fit a grease nipple as well.
Royal Mail in the UK was sold to a Czech multi millionaire.
The service is going downhill as fast as the prices are going up.😡
Ed
In Canada addressed ad-mail is a great income stream for our postoffice...or as you call it, "junk mail".
Businesses pay less than 1st class letter postage, but they get a volume discount.🤔
In Canada addressed ad-mail is a great income stream for our postoffice...or as you call it, "junk mail".
Businesses pay less than 1st class letter postage, but they get a volume discount.🤔
But the junk mail keeps coming at the US taxpayers expense here. We gat a lot of days where we just get junk mail only only to throw it away. What a waste.
Lew
But the junk mail keeps coming at the US taxpayers expense here. We gat a lot of days where we just get junk mail only only to throw it away. What a waste.
Lew
Lew
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Thanks Bob. I'm oldfashioned in that i actually handwrite letters & send them in the mail. I also write cheques, do calligraphy, & surprise people with gifts in their mailbox.
My ex-wife lives in farm country & actually mails me fresh produce which is very inexpensive at the farm stands.
Thanks Bob. I'm oldfashioned in that i actually handwrite letters & send them in the mail. I also write cheques, do calligraphy, & surprise people with gifts in their mailbox.
My ex-wife lives in farm country & actually mails me fresh produce which is very inexpensive at the farm stands.
Our postal system is 99% shutdown by labour strife, so nobody is getting anything...unless you are entitled to a social assistance cheque...the Union has agreed to continue delivering those.
Our postal system is 99% shutdown by labour strife, so nobody is getting anything...unless you are entitled to a social assistance cheque...the Union has agreed to continue delivering those.
Hi EdW,
Have you been able to buy lengths of silver steel over 12” long?
I have quite a few boxes of 10” and 12” silver steel from my model engineering days, but longer lengths were not usually stocked by my local steel supplier.
Are you going to turn your own flanged bearings from Phosphor Bronze or Brass?
Lastly, do you mind letting me know how you anneal your silver steel to make it soft enough to cut a screw thread in it using High Speed steel dies?
I just used to heat my silver steel until it was glowing red (on the end to be threaded) and then let it cool down slowly, but knowing which colour band to quench it at after cutting the thread and re-heating it again was always a bit of a guess for me.
When I get home I may check the cost and availability of 8mm O/D brass tube and 5mm stainless steel or silver steel bar locally along with the same for brass or phosphor bronze to make some bearings from and see how the prices compare with buying a 5mm Maxi shaft ready made.
Bob.
Have you been able to buy lengths of silver steel over 12” long?
I have quite a few boxes of 10” and 12” silver steel from my model engineering days, but longer lengths were not usually stocked by my local steel supplier.
Are you going to turn your own flanged bearings from Phosphor Bronze or Brass?
Lastly, do you mind letting me know how you anneal your silver steel to make it soft enough to cut a screw thread in it using High Speed steel dies?
I just used to heat my silver steel until it was glowing red (on the end to be threaded) and then let it cool down slowly, but knowing which colour band to quench it at after cutting the thread and re-heating it again was always a bit of a guess for me.
When I get home I may check the cost and availability of 8mm O/D brass tube and 5mm stainless steel or silver steel bar locally along with the same for brass or phosphor bronze to make some bearings from and see how the prices compare with buying a 5mm Maxi shaft ready made.
Yes, I quite often add additional things to an order so that the postage works out fairer.
I was annoyed with myself when making a biggish order for timber for a build and stock and forgot to include some essential timber for the build! 🙄
Hi RodC,
A postal service is something that everyone wants/needs but would prefer not to pay for.
In the UK less and less people are posting letters. Part of the reason for this is because fewer people can actually be bothered to write with a pen/pencil (keyboards are preferred) but the cost of posting a letter has made it less attractive.
In comparison, the cost of posting a small package looks like much better value for money and our local “postie” reports carrying fewer letters every day - but many more padded envelopes and small packages that ever before.
Larger packages and boxes etc are delivered by van and not by the “postie” who still uses his legs to walk his delivery route.
Some suppliers (less and less) these days add unrealistic postal delivery costs to their products to make a little extra cash, but most take advantage of the very competitive delivery service that we have in the UK that has several couriers competing against each other, and this drives the prices down - or at least keeps them competitive.
Some suppliers add a standard delivery charge to everything they sell. This can work out OK if you are spending and buying a lot, but penalises those of us that just want to buy small lightweight items such as a few plastic propellers or an odd prop-shaft that anyone could take to the post office and post for less (much less sometimes).
Even more interesting is that anyone can arrange and pay (by mobile phone, iPad, computer etc) for their small package to be uplifted from their home at no extra cost!
Being aware of this can cause a little unhappiness when a supplier adds a fixed delivery charge to small items that anyone (that does not even have a business rate deal with any particular courier) can send for less.
Against that, we do have quite a good postal delivery service here in the UK, but (traditionally) we enjoy a good moan about things from time to time, so any perceived over-charge for being sent something by mail gives us a good opportunity to enjoy a good moan about it - and to share this discontent with anyone else who can be bothered to listen 🤣
Having had a bit of a moan, few of us will make the effort to escalate this to the next level and actually complain to the sender about adding unjustified costs to those small but essential little items we need …….but it doesn’t stop us either being fully aware of it - or being little “miffed” about it.
From what you say, maybe you could have even more of a (justified) moan about your postal service in Canada?
Bob.
A postal service is something that everyone wants/needs but would prefer not to pay for.
In the UK less and less people are posting letters. Part of the reason for this is because fewer people can actually be bothered to write with a pen/pencil (keyboards are preferred) but the cost of posting a letter has made it less attractive.
In comparison, the cost of posting a small package looks like much better value for money and our local “postie” reports carrying fewer letters every day - but many more padded envelopes and small packages that ever before.
Larger packages and boxes etc are delivered by van and not by the “postie” who still uses his legs to walk his delivery route.
Some suppliers (less and less) these days add unrealistic postal delivery costs to their products to make a little extra cash, but most take advantage of the very competitive delivery service that we have in the UK that has several couriers competing against each other, and this drives the prices down - or at least keeps them competitive.
Some suppliers add a standard delivery charge to everything they sell. This can work out OK if you are spending and buying a lot, but penalises those of us that just want to buy small lightweight items such as a few plastic propellers or an odd prop-shaft that anyone could take to the post office and post for less (much less sometimes).
Even more interesting is that anyone can arrange and pay (by mobile phone, iPad, computer etc) for their small package to be uplifted from their home at no extra cost!
Being aware of this can cause a little unhappiness when a supplier adds a fixed delivery charge to small items that anyone (that does not even have a business rate deal with any particular courier) can send for less.
Against that, we do have quite a good postal delivery service here in the UK, but (traditionally) we enjoy a good moan about things from time to time, so any perceived over-charge for being sent something by mail gives us a good opportunity to enjoy a good moan about it - and to share this discontent with anyone else who can be bothered to listen 🤣
Having had a bit of a moan, few of us will make the effort to escalate this to the next level and actually complain to the sender about adding unjustified costs to those small but essential little items we need …….but it doesn’t stop us either being fully aware of it - or being little “miffed” about it.
From what you say, maybe you could have even more of a (justified) moan about your postal service in Canada?
£55.75 for two basic prop-shafts (not ball raced or anything special) and a rudder.
Not very long ago that price for so little would not have been thought possible - but here we are!
…..and that is not actually too bad !
I have not bought any wood yet, but wood prices have also shot up, so I am not expecting any bargains there either !
Prices have gone up everywhere for everything, and our hobby only reflects that situation, but it doesn’t make it any easier.
Some of my Remora was made from scrap used plywood - but it hasn’t suffered from that in any way, and it runs really well, so maybe recycling and restoring old models could get more popular in the near future?
Bob.
£55.75 for two basic prop-shafts (not ball raced or anything special) and a rudder.
Not very long ago that price for so little would not have been thought possible - but here we are!
…..and that is not actually too bad !
I have not bought any wood yet, but wood prices have also shot up, so I am not expecting any bargains there either !
Prices have gone up everywhere for everything, and our hobby only reflects that situation, but it doesn’t make it any easier.
Some of my Remora was made from scrap used plywood - but it hasn’t suffered from that in any way, and it runs really well, so maybe recycling and restoring old models could get more popular in the near future?
Making some more more progress on the Sprite Super Duper. Working on the frames now - who thought it was a good idea to have 9 frames including the bow and transom! 🙄 😀
The number arose basically because I just added extra ones in between those existing whose position in some cases is determined by e.g. the cabin. I could reduce the number but it would only be by 1 or 2 so I'll leave as is for now so I can get the drawing finished. I can soon alter them later if required.
Making some more more progress on the Sprite Super Duper. Working on the frames now - who thought it was a good idea to have 9 frames including the bow and transom! 🙄 😀
The number arose basically because I just added extra ones in between those existing whose position in some cases is determined by e.g. the cabin. I could reduce the number but it would only be by 1 or 2 so I'll leave as is for now so I can get the drawing finished. I can soon alter them later if required.
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
As I've standardised on a number of components, a couple of years ago I stocked up as I thought there was a possibility that supplies might be disrupted from China at sometime.
I bought enough motors and ESCs for all my existing builds that I hadn't already bought them for and estimated future builds (not that many planned after my Faireys) plus a few spares.
This was also partly prompted by being caught out and not being able to get my favourite alloy motor mount when the company ceased training. I also stocked up on Hitec receivers as manufacture of these stopped (tipped off by a neighbour who also uses Hitec). Fortunately managed to get enough from dealers who still had some and from Ebay.
Fortunately I've got most of the prop shafts I need as I had to buy those as I went along to incorporate in the construction. Good job given the prices now as mentioned.
Good job my wife doen't look in the cupboards in my workroom! 😮
As I've standardised on a number of components, a couple of years ago I stocked up as I thought there was a possibility that supplies might be disrupted from China at sometime.
I bought enough motors and ESCs for all my existing builds that I hadn't already bought them for and estimated future builds (not that many planned after my Faireys) plus a few spares.
This was also partly prompted by being caught out and not being able to get my favourite alloy motor mount when the company ceased training. I also stocked up on Hitec receivers as manufacture of these stopped (tipped off by a neighbour who also uses Hitec). Fortunately managed to get enough from dealers who still had some and from Ebay.
Fortunately I've got most of the prop shafts I need as I had to buy those as I went along to incorporate in the construction. Good job given the prices now as mentioned.
Good job my wife doen't look in the cupboards in my workroom! 😮
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
Cost of most, if not all, hobby products has risen significantly. Weird thing is I was looking for another "dasmikro" sound unit (actually several) and the average price was about 4X as much as the same one I bought several years ago. These are cheap units and are massed produced where the price should be about that of a TV remote control. However I have seen them many times that in some places. The same unit price runs from $9(US) up to $60. Same photo, same info.
Lew
Cost of most, if not all, hobby products has risen significantly. Weird thing is I was looking for another "dasmikro" sound unit (actually several) and the average price was about 4X as much as the same one I bought several years ago. These are cheap units and are massed produced where the price should be about that of a TV remote control. However I have seen them many times that in some places. The same unit price runs from $9(US) up to $60. Same photo, same info.
Lew
Lew
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
I have placed my order for both M5 Maxishaft prop shafts (along with a large size rudder) so the deed is done and they will be with me very soon.
The rudder can be cut to shape and size as required as it is probably too big for the Sprite Plus.
Bob.
I use the maintenance free Raboesch prop shafts in most of my builds but noticed the last time I bought any the price seemed to have suddenly increased. If I used one in the Sprite it would be at least twice the price so the Maxishaft price isn't too bad really and I will probably use one in my Sprite build.
I use the maintenance free Raboesch prop shafts in most of my builds but noticed the last time I bought any the price seemed to have suddenly increased. If I used one in the Sprite it would be at least twice the price so the Maxishaft price isn't too bad really and I will probably use one in my Sprite build.
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
As a pensioner, I suppose I notice the increasing cost of things a bit more than when I was at work and I was a little surprised at the cost of an 11” Maxishaft (8mm outer tube with 5mm inner shaft) to fit this boat.
With the oiler tube fitted, the cost is £21.25 which is probably not too bad, but £6.50 to post it to me makes it £27.75.
I also want to buy a 12” Maxishaft to fit into “Christine” the LesRo Sportsman and (being one inch longer that shaft will cost more, so I think I will make that one myself and see how I get on.
When I was still at school I used to make my own prop shafts for myself and my friends when I was able to use the lathe during the dinner-time break or after school, so it is hardly rocket science, but I would guess that the cost of brass tube for the outer and phosphor bronze for the bearings will be a lot more these days …..and then the 5mm steel for inner shaft still has to be purchased.
Inner shaft material choice is an interesting one too. Plain mild steel is easy to work and cut a thread on but will rust easily if it is not kept well lubricated and so is not the best choice especially if the boat is likely to be run in salt water.
Stainless steel is a fairly obvious alternative but there are several “grades” of stainless steel and one of the so called “marine grades” would be the natural choice and it too can be quite easy to cut and thread.
Silver steel is another (expensive) option. This comes in shorter lengths, is very hard and very straight but it is not as easy to find in lengths longer than 12” and has to be annealed on the end to the threaded and then (ideally) re-hardened to a suitable hardness afterwards and is more rust resistant the mild steel but not as good as stainless steel.
Unless I have some suitable materials in stock - it is probably cheaper to buy the Maxishafts than make them - but the £6.50 local postage for such a small light padded envelope does annoy!
Bob.
As a pensioner, I suppose I notice the increasing cost of things a bit more than when I was at work and I was a little surprised at the cost of an 11” Maxishaft (8mm outer tube with 5mm inner shaft) to fit this boat.
With the oiler tube fitted, the cost is £21.25 which is probably not too bad, but £6.50 to post it to me makes it £27.75.
I also want to buy a 12” Maxishaft to fit into “Christine” the LesRo Sportsman and (being one inch longer that shaft will cost more, so I think I will make that one myself and see how I get on.
When I was still at school I used to make my own prop shafts for myself and my friends when I was able to use the lathe during the dinner-time break or after school, so it is hardly rocket science, but I would guess that the cost of brass tube for the outer and phosphor bronze for the bearings will be a lot more these days …..and then the 5mm steel for inner shaft still has to be purchased.
Inner shaft material choice is an interesting one too. Plain mild steel is easy to work and cut a thread on but will rust easily if it is not kept well lubricated and so is not the best choice especially if the boat is likely to be run in salt water.
Stainless steel is a fairly obvious alternative but there are several “grades” of stainless steel and one of the so called “marine grades” would be the natural choice and it too can be quite easy to cut and thread.
Silver steel is another (expensive) option. This comes in shorter lengths, is very hard and very straight but it is not as easy to find in lengths longer than 12” and has to be annealed on the end to the threaded and then (ideally) re-hardened to a suitable hardness afterwards and is more rust resistant the mild steel but not as good as stainless steel.
Unless I have some suitable materials in stock - it is probably cheaper to buy the Maxishafts than make them - but the £6.50 local postage for such a small light padded envelope does annoy!
Here are some more cabin roof structures to help illustrate how they simply “plug-in” to the space in the open cabin top.
The open cabin space is copied and then cut onto a flat piece of 4mm ply to become the base for the cabin roof. This will be a close fit all around as it will become the shape of the “plug” that becomes the removable roof.
The roof formers are glued onto this base.
Additional bracing can also be added to this base to stop this assembly twisting as the skins dry - even though they are always fitted in pairs (if more than one piece).
When the skins are fitted to these roof assemblies they are usually made to overlap the cabin front and sides (and sometimes even the rear too).
When dry the skins can be trimmed to be flush with the sides, and shaped to give the overlap look that is required for the front and rear (sunshade etc).
Sometimes the sides can also be trimmed to give a slight overlap if this looks better or suites the boat better than haveing them flush to the cabin sides.
Bob.
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Here are some more cabin roof structures to help illustrate how they simply “plug-in” to the space in the open cabin top.
The open cabin space is copied and then cut onto a flat piece of 4mm ply to become the base for the cabin roof. This will be a close fit all around as it will become the shape of the “plug” that becomes the removable roof.
The roof formers are glued onto this base.
Additional bracing can also be added to this base to stop this assembly twisting as the skins dry - even though they are always fitted in pairs (if more than one piece).
When the skins are fitted to these roof assemblies they are usually made to overlap the cabin front and sides (and sometimes even the rear too).
When dry the skins can be trimmed to be flush with the sides, and shaped to give the overlap look that is required for the front and rear (sunshade etc).
Sometimes the sides can also be trimmed to give a slight overlap if this looks better or suites the boat better than haveing them flush to the cabin sides.
I like the idea of the split screen including a slight vee to give it come additional charactor (think VW Camper) and the roof could be extended over it slightly like a mini sun visor.
Most of my removable cabin roofs are like this and it is not a problem as they are basically just a “plug” that fits in to the opening space with the skin covering forming the extended “visor” shape.
Bob,
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I like the idea of the split screen including a slight vee to give it come additional charactor (think VW Camper) and the roof could be extended over it slightly like a mini sun visor.
Most of my removable cabin roofs are like this and it is not a problem as they are basically just a “plug” that fits in to the opening space with the skin covering forming the extended “visor” shape.
Morning Bob. Great minds think alike! I was only thinking earlier about a split front screen, particularly as the model is bigger than original.
Not sure about the vee because as you say the blunt front end but that can easily be accommodated if you wish. How difficult will it be to make the removable roof if curved and with a vee?
Morning Bob. Great minds think alike! I was only thinking earlier about a split front screen, particularly as the model is bigger than original.
Not sure about the vee because as you say the blunt front end but that can easily be accommodated if you wish. How difficult will it be to make the removable roof if curved and with a vee?
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
I copied your latest and your previous drawings so I could place them side by side to make it easier to compare, and yes that slight increase in depth at the bows does look better.
The model is evolving slightly from being a basic utility boat to a utility boat with some style.
Since we are “styling it up” a little bit, I admit to also wondering what a split screen would look like, with a very slight vee on it.
That may be a daft idea as the craft has a “punt nose” but if you think classic VW Camper van, the early split screen variant does have a more appealing look than the later flat screen (Bay Window) type - and they are fairly flat fronted vehicles.
When you draw the plan elevation it will be easier to see if the design would take it or not, but as a previous Bay Window owner, I have to admit that the “splittee” had more style with no other real (apparent visible) changes to the body shape.
Nice work Chris.
Bob.
I copied your latest and your previous drawings so I could place them side by side to make it easier to compare, and yes that slight increase in depth at the bows does look better.
The model is evolving slightly from being a basic utility boat to a utility boat with some style.
Since we are “styling it up” a little bit, I admit to also wondering what a split screen would look like, with a very slight vee on it.
That may be a daft idea as the craft has a “punt nose” but if you think classic VW Camper van, the early split screen variant does have a more appealing look than the later flat screen (Bay Window) type - and they are fairly flat fronted vehicles.
When you draw the plan elevation it will be easier to see if the design would take it or not, but as a previous Bay Window owner, I have to admit that the “splittee” had more style with no other real (apparent visible) changes to the body shape.
Do you like the angle of the deck? Only a bit but to my mind it looks better than being parallel to the keel and gives a bit more depth to the bow.
Fortunately I'm going to be a little less busy than anticipated over the next few days so will be able to progress the drawings.
Yup much easier to whip the bandsaw around a gentle curve like that Chris 😎
….nice to see that forward rudder position - should give really good steering response 👍
Bob.
See what I mean and I've added a curve between the cabin and coaming! 😁
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Thanks for the original kit plan and instructions Harry - very interesting and a useful reference for when I build the bigger Sprite Plus from the new drawings that Chris is producing for us.
I look forward to seeing some pictures of your Sprite when it is finished on the Classic Model Power Boats thread.
Always good to hear from you - stay safe,
Bob.
Thanks for the original kit plan and instructions Harry - very interesting and a useful reference for when I build the bigger Sprite Plus from the new drawings that Chris is producing for us.
I look forward to seeing some pictures of your Sprite when it is finished on the Classic Model Power Boats thread.
A simple day boat/recovery craft ticks all the boxes for me Chris.
Too much detail could make it just another power boat rather than one to be dragged to the lake every time to be "used and abused"!
An 11" long 5mm prop shaft has been "sorted" 👍.....along with a 12" 5mm shaft for the LesRo Sportsman than I am about to restore.
Bob.
Interesting Harry, do you know who came up with those modifications?
Trouble is I suppose, that it is moving away from the simple original design and those type of additions are at odds with a lack of window frames etc.
But that's never stopped us and there will be a temptation with our bigger Sprite Plus to add detail! 😀
Hi Me Lads
Some Sprite Mk2 paper work.
I will see if I can do the frames from the kit before I start building it !!!!
I have spare Surpass Hobby C3542-1450KV and ESC looking for a home.
Harry
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Hi Me Lads
Some Sprite Mk2 paper work.
I will see if I can do the frames from the kit before I start building it !!!!
I have spare Surpass Hobby C3542-1450KV and ESC looking for a home.
Thanks Chris,
That looks like it is going to work very well, and the forward mounted rudder should give it really good steering too 👍
We are popping back home today to mow the lawns and try to get the garden looking OK ready for the winter.
Nobody explained to our grass that it should stop growing ready for the winter!
I will make time to check the prop shafts that I have in the workshop (shed) and see if I have anything to make into an M5 shaft 11” long. If not, I will order a new Maxishaft.
Wood stock will also be checked as I suspect I may need to make a new order for some stringers and possibly some skins too!
I am looking forward to cutting some new wood again, but first I will strip the bandsaw and give it a good check-over and a new blade.
Bob.
That looks like it is going to work very well, and the forward mounted rudder should give it really good steering too 👍
We are popping back home today to mow the lawns and try to get the garden looking OK ready for the winter.
Nobody explained to our grass that it should stop growing ready for the winter!
I will make time to check the prop shafts that I have in the workshop (shed) and see if I have anything to make into an M5 shaft 11” long. If not, I will order a new Maxishaft.
Wood stock will also be checked as I suspect I may need to make a new order for some stringers and possibly some skins too!
I am looking forward to cutting some new wood again, but first I will strip the bandsaw and give it a good check-over and a new blade.
Rudder moved to 70mm from stern, water inlet added and prop shaft and motor repositioned for 45mm prop.
As you can see there is plenty of leeway if you want to allow for a bigger prop than this. These changes unsurprisingly didn't make make any difference to the length of the prop tube so remains at 11". This assumes that the motor mount can be fitted that low in the hull OK? Not a problem I guess with that type of design unlike the ones I usually use. I do have one I used for dimensions when working on the Stiletto derivatives and will use it in Sprite Plus!
Upstand to be added to keel to support the rudder.
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Rudder moved to 70mm from stern, water inlet added and prop shaft and motor repositioned for 45mm prop.
As you can see there is plenty of leeway if you want to allow for a bigger prop than this. These changes unsurprisingly didn't make make any difference to the length of the prop tube so remains at 11". This assumes that the motor mount can be fitted that low in the hull OK? Not a problem I guess with that type of design unlike the ones I usually use. I do have one I used for dimensions when working on the Stiletto derivatives and will use it in Sprite Plus!
Upstand to be added to keel to support the rudder.
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
It's no problem altering it Bob and you will building it first I think!
I'll work on it being a 45mm prop positioned close to the bottom of the hull and position the water inlet between it and the rudder. I think this model will fly even with a max 45mm prop!
Once everything else is drawn the frames will be easy peasy!
It's no problem altering it Bob and you will building it first I think!
I'll work on it being a 45mm prop positioned close to the bottom of the hull and position the water inlet between it and the rudder. I think this model will fly even with a max 45mm prop!
Once everything else is drawn the frames will be easy peasy!
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
Hi Chris,
I usually make/adjust/buy the length of prop shaft to suite the design I am working on so the length will be determined by the model.
Your plans look OK as they are, so don’t worry about making any changes to accommodate a 55mm prop size as the largest size likely to be fitted would probably be 45mm.
I am going to drive home tomorrow to pick up some things and tidy the garden etc etc so when I am there I will check my wood stock and order anything that I may need to top-up on.
An 11” Maxi-shaft and coupling can be ordered too, but if I have any spare time (!) I will check my stock of old prop shafts/brass tube and silver steel to see if I can make or convert a shaft from what I have already.
There is no rush for the plans Chris, although I will prepare everything so I am ready to make a start, any wood and parts that I order will take some time to arrive and I am still away more than I am at home at the moment.
Yes I usually water cool all of my model boats - the only one that I have ever made without a water cooled ESC is the Kopy Kommander that I have used a 120A fan cooled ESC on and it is working well so far…….but even then I fitted a water cooled jacket onto the in-runner motor and mounted that on a water cooled motor mount!
Installing water cooling is always a good idea as I don’t have to use it - but it is always ready to connect-up and can be by-passed if it is not needed.
Thanks for getting this project moving, it will be fun putting it together .
Bob.
I usually make/adjust/buy the length of prop shaft to suite the design I am working on so the length will be determined by the model.
Your plans look OK as they are, so don’t worry about making any changes to accommodate a 55mm prop size as the largest size likely to be fitted would probably be 45mm.
I am going to drive home tomorrow to pick up some things and tidy the garden etc etc so when I am there I will check my wood stock and order anything that I may need to top-up on.
An 11” Maxi-shaft and coupling can be ordered too, but if I have any spare time (!) I will check my stock of old prop shafts/brass tube and silver steel to see if I can make or convert a shaft from what I have already.
There is no rush for the plans Chris, although I will prepare everything so I am ready to make a start, any wood and parts that I order will take some time to arrive and I am still away more than I am at home at the moment.
Yes I usually water cool all of my model boats - the only one that I have ever made without a water cooled ESC is the Kopy Kommander that I have used a 120A fan cooled ESC on and it is working well so far…….but even then I fitted a water cooled jacket onto the in-runner motor and mounted that on a water cooled motor mount!
Installing water cooling is always a good idea as I don’t have to use it - but it is always ready to connect-up and can be by-passed if it is not needed.
Thanks for getting this project moving, it will be fun putting it together .
Bob.
Never too old to learn
The prop tube as drawn is 11" but this might change when I make the alterations to accommodate the 55 prop? Though I guess this can be achieved by increasing the angle though I like to try and keep as shallow as possible - what is the max. angle you are happy with?
Yes, bulkheads are 4mm and the keel and doublers 6mm with the doublers reducing to 3 or 4mm in front of the prop tube though they can be 6mm all the way. Stringers will be the usual 2 No. laminated at 1/8 x 1/4" or 3.2 x 6.5mm.
Not had any time to do anymore today and I've got a pretty busy week but if I do get time I'll have a look at the prop tube. What length do you usually use?
Are you going to water-cool?
The prop tube as drawn is 11" but this might change when I make the alterations to accommodate the 55 prop? Though I guess this can be achieved by increasing the angle though I like to try and keep as shallow as possible - what is the max. angle you are happy with?
Yes, bulkheads are 4mm and the keel and doublers 6mm with the doublers reducing to 3 or 4mm in front of the prop tube though they can be 6mm all the way. Stringers will be the usual 2 No. laminated at 1/8 x 1/4" or 3.2 x 6.5mm.
Not had any time to do anymore today and I've got a pretty busy week but if I do get time I'll have a look at the prop tube. What length do you usually use?
Are you going to water-cool?
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
If you can let me know the length of prop shaft that you have drawn into your new Sprite Plus plans I will get a 5mm Maxi-shaft and coupling on order so I am ready to go when you are Chris.
A suitable motor and mount are already here and I have some plywood, so I think I will have enough to get started…and hopefully finish the build.
I am guessing that the bulkheads will be 4mm and the keel and doublers will be 6mm (please advise).
A trip home early this week is planned so I can check to see if there is enough wood and skins to complete the build.
I am not too sure if I have enough stringers so again if you let me know what size you have drawn them at I will have enough time to order any new woods that will be needed in time for the build.
This could be good fun Chris ……maybe we could even drag Will into building one too ? 🤣
Bob.
If you can let me know the length of prop shaft that you have drawn into your new Sprite Plus plans I will get a 5mm Maxi-shaft and coupling on order so I am ready to go when you are Chris.
A suitable motor and mount are already here and I have some plywood, so I think I will have enough to get started…and hopefully finish the build.
I am guessing that the bulkheads will be 4mm and the keel and doublers will be 6mm (please advise).
A trip home early this week is planned so I can check to see if there is enough wood and skins to complete the build.
I am not too sure if I have enough stringers so again if you let me know what size you have drawn them at I will have enough time to order any new woods that will be needed in time for the build.
This could be good fun Chris ……maybe we could even drag Will into building one too ? 🤣
Bob.
Never too old to learn
I can see the Sprite Plus being the possible cause for the demise of the few “plastic phantastics” that I still have.
Most of my fast electric boats have new homes, but I still like to have a model that I can just turn up with and bung it onto the water and drive - something that these RTR craft do remarkably well.
My current favourite models for this job are my two Thunder Tigre Avanti models (one orange and one blue), but they are both quite old now and there are no spare parts available for them anywhere, so one day I will need to find a replacement for them.
Much as I admire the ease of use and performance that these models give me, I am aware that there will be thousands more of them made, and although there may not be too many of them left in action for very much longer (no spare parts) they are far from being unique.
My Sprite Plus will not be anything like anyone else’s Sprite Plus (most will be built much better than mine), but it will be uniquely mine…and it will also sound like a proper Model Power Boat should!
This nice simple craft could easily replace my plastic RTR models by being just as easy to use, but much easier to maintain and repair if/when needed…..and in the unlikely event of a total write-off, reasonably inexpensive and quick to replace,
What could be better than that?
Bob.
I can see the Sprite Plus being the possible cause for the demise of the few “plastic phantastics” that I still have.
Most of my fast electric boats have new homes, but I still like to have a model that I can just turn up with and bung it onto the water and drive - something that these RTR craft do remarkably well.
My current favourite models for this job are my two Thunder Tigre Avanti models (one orange and one blue), but they are both quite old now and there are no spare parts available for them anywhere, so one day I will need to find a replacement for them.
Much as I admire the ease of use and performance that these models give me, I am aware that there will be thousands more of them made, and although there may not be too many of them left in action for very much longer (no spare parts) they are far from being unique.
My Sprite Plus will not be anything like anyone else’s Sprite Plus (most will be built much better than mine), but it will be uniquely mine…and it will also sound like a proper Model Power Boat should!
This nice simple craft could easily replace my plastic RTR models by being just as easy to use, but much easier to maintain and repair if/when needed…..and in the unlikely event of a total write-off, reasonably inexpensive and quick to replace,
I think you're right Bob, it will make a great everyday model.
I'm a bit (well a lot!) precious about my Faireys, because of the amount of work I've put into them and the uniqueness of some of them and it will be good to have something relatively simple, quick to build and if it does take a knock it will be easy to fix.
My plastic RTR boats serve that purpose but it will be nice to have a timber, self-build to fulfill that role as well.
Not been able to do much of anything today as the back door lock decided to self-distruct when locked and I've had the fun job of replacing it!
I think you're right Bob, it will make a great everyday model.
I'm a bit (well a lot!) precious about my Faireys, because of the amount of work I've put into them and the uniqueness of some of them and it will be good to have something relatively simple, quick to build and if it does take a knock it will be easy to fix.
My plastic RTR boats serve that purpose but it will be nice to have a timber, self-build to fulfill that role as well.
Not been able to do much of anything today as the back door lock decided to self-distruct when locked and I've had the fun job of replacing it!
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
Hi Chris,
I think your “Sprite Plus” will be the sort of model that will be taken to the lake every trip - not just as a rescue boat, but as a simple fun boat.
If the Sprite plus can perform anything like as well as the Vic Smeed Remora (of similar size) it could well become my favourite “go-to” boat.
The forwards rudder position that I will use should give the model a tight turning circle that will come in very handy when a rescue mission is attempted…..and make fast turns a lot of fun!
I will start by fitting the same motor and ESC that I use on my Remora and see how it goes.
Bob.
I think your “Sprite Plus” will be the sort of model that will be taken to the lake every trip - not just as a rescue boat, but as a simple fun boat.
If the Sprite plus can perform anything like as well as the Vic Smeed Remora (of similar size) it could well become my favourite “go-to” boat.
The forwards rudder position that I will use should give the model a tight turning circle that will come in very handy when a rescue mission is attempted…..and make fast turns a lot of fun!
I will start by fitting the same motor and ESC that I use on my Remora and see how it goes.
Your drawing looks very good Chris.
With that many 4mm bulkheads it will be super-strong and twist free - perfect !
Thanks for showing the type of water-cooled motor mount on your drawing that I like to use, it looks very neat and tidy.
It also looks like you have drawn a Maxi-Coupling - exactly what I will be fitting between the motor and the 5mm Maxi-shaft.
I tend to use the S55 prop size purely as a gauge when setting the prop angle as low as possible.
Alternatively, an X50 prop almost touching the underside of the bottom skin gets the prop as close to the underside as is practical.
The actual size of prop that I would probably use on this craft with a good brushless motor would probably be an S40 …or with a really torquey out-runner motor possibly an S45 or an X40 could be tested to see what works best.
My guess would be that the S40 would work best as that is what I have on my similar sized Remora ….and that works really well.
I would fit my rudder in your design 70mm from the back as I have enjoyed the difference to the steering response that this style of forward rudder mounting has given me in my Remora and Rapier…..and has already been fitted in my second Rapier….
Nice work Chris - can’t wait to get started !
Bob.
With that many 4mm bulkheads it will be super-strong and twist free - perfect !
Thanks for showing the type of water-cooled motor mount on your drawing that I like to use, it looks very neat and tidy.
It also looks like you have drawn a Maxi-Coupling - exactly what I will be fitting between the motor and the 5mm Maxi-shaft.
I tend to use the S55 prop size purely as a gauge when setting the prop angle as low as possible.
Alternatively, an X50 prop almost touching the underside of the bottom skin gets the prop as close to the underside as is practical.
The actual size of prop that I would probably use on this craft with a good brushless motor would probably be an S40 …or with a really torquey out-runner motor possibly an S45 or an X40 could be tested to see what works best.
My guess would be that the S40 would work best as that is what I have on my similar sized Remora ….and that works really well.
I would fit my rudder in your design 70mm from the back as I have enjoyed the difference to the steering response that this style of forward rudder mounting has given me in my Remora and Rapier…..and has already been fitted in my second Rapier….
I was drawing when you posted so hadn't seen your comments.
For starters I'd positioned the rudder and prop shaft as per the original and at 12 degrees. I've added a red line at 70mm from the transom so as you can see there shouldn't be a problem with positioning the rudder there.
Blimey, 55mm prop as a max! I was thinking 35 or maybe 40mm for a 30" boat. I've added a red rectangle showing a 55mm and with adjustment this could be catered for. I need to draw a section to see how the motor mount fits with the hull skins etc.
Yes, that's exactly how I was going to do the superstructure and with a slightly recessed well deck.
Drawing attached to give you a flavour but plenty more to do.
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I was drawing when you posted so hadn't seen your comments.
For starters I'd positioned the rudder and prop shaft as per the original and at 12 degrees. I've added a red line at 70mm from the transom so as you can see there shouldn't be a problem with positioning the rudder there.
Blimey, 55mm prop as a max! I was thinking 35 or maybe 40mm for a 30" boat. I've added a red rectangle showing a 55mm and with adjustment this could be catered for. I need to draw a section to see how the motor mount fits with the hull skins etc.
Yes, that's exactly how I was going to do the superstructure and with a slightly recessed well deck.
Drawing attached to give you a flavour but plenty more to do.
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
