Sprite

Started by ChrisF
267 replies 641 likes Last activity: 18 days ago
#18 2

Sprite

Hi Chris,

I think it would be a good idea to see if we can plan to fit the rudder shaft 70mm forward of the transom and then make the shaft angle to give enough clearance for an X55 propeller as it will probably be the largest size that anyone would want to fit on this craft......and it could turn as well as the Remora too!

If you are making a fixed superstructure (like most Aerokits and LesRo builds) this would be superb as the cabin sides could run right to the transom to interlock with every bulkhead (and the transom) making a really rigid construction and forming the side walls to the open rear well deck at the same time like the Fairey Spear (and LesRo Sportsman).

A little curvature on the deck would make it look less utilitarian and a little more classy.

The same curvature could be used on the cabin top too so that everything harmonises nicely.

Small details can make the Sprite Plus a really good looking model - just a tad nicer than its slightly smaller original and I am sure it will be superb to drive and have some fun making white water with (in-between it’s occasional rescue duties.

Bob.
Never too old to learn
Liked by Madwelshman
#17 2

Sprite

Even with the rudder forwards on the Rapier it reminds me of how a Fairey steers, probably because of the similar vee hulls and personally I prefer it to the Remora where the stern looks to be pushing out as it turns which would be beneficial for tight turns. Of course they are different sized boats so the rudder from the stern needs to be compared on a percentage basis.

I've been doing a bit more now and then and progressing the plan and side view. Whilst the shape is virtually the same it's almost a complete construction redesign and repositioning of components. The frames will be one of the last jobs to be done!

I'll see how the motor and prop shaft fits at around 12 degrees (OK with that angle?) and then we can see how much room we've got to play with for the rudder position and battery etc. Obviously we don't want the motor and prop tube too far forward. Once I've got that in place I'll post a picture up.

I'm thinking of a flat deck for simplicity and it will make it easier to fit the claw or whatever though it will be easy enough to add camber to the deck during construction if so desired.
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
#16 2

Sprite

As a matter of interest, I moved the rudder further forward when I restored my first Rapier as I thought it would help the steering.

I got the idea from the steering competition boats from the 1960’s and it certainly works!

Given the dual requirements that I have planned for my own Sprite Plus (mainly white water sport and fun with a built in occasional boat recovery function), moving the rudder a little further forwards could be a good idea to aid both functions.👍

On my Remora the centre of the rudder post is 68mm forwards from the transom, but on my Rapier I moved it a full 100mm to the centre of the rudder post forward from the transom.

I think both steer a little better than most Classic Model Power Boats….check out these two videos of them both in action and let me know what you think?

Bob.
Never too old to learn
Liked by PhilH and Madwelshman
#14 2

Sprite

Having just come across the Stiletto drawing I noticed a number of similarities between it and Sprite. Not exact, well nowhere near (!) but just design cues with regard to the cabin and angles. Both Lesro of course.

Or is it just me! 😀
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
Liked by Madwelshman and zooma
#13 2

Sprite

30 inches? I know that I am not the only one that uses a Springer tug as a rescue boat. The Springers are 18 inches long (very easy to transport) and with the two "tow knees" (vertical push bumpers) are very handy. With a short length they are highly maneuverable.

Lew
Lew
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Liked by Madwelshman and DWBrinkman and
#12 2

Sprite

Hi Chris,

Giving the 30" Sprite Plus a fixed superstructure would definitely make it more weatherproof and gets my vote 👍

The interlocking cabin sides (like LesRo/Aerokits construction) would also give some extra rigidity and strength to the boat

Thanks for including my favourite water-cooled cast alloy motor mount in your drawings Chris.

Using this mount universally on all my models allows me to rapidly test different motors to find the one that works best in any boat - and will be helpful when testing your new creation too!.

This could be a workhorse that could also perform really well as a sports boat too.

Bob.
Never too old to learn
Liked by Mike W and hermank
#11 2

Sprite

OK, I'll draw it at 30" as just enlarging it when printing might cause problems with the size and positioning of the rudder, prop shaft and motor and I'll show your favourite motor mount Bob.

Being bigger we could make the superstructure fixed with a removable roof and hatch. I know we are moving away from the original design in some ways but it will look very similar and "Crabbie" will have the DNA of Sprite.
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
Liked by Mike W and hermank and
#10 2

Sprite

That certainly looks the part as a workhourse but is a bit complicated for our needs! And too slow for Bob when not doing recovery duties! 😀
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
Liked by hermank and zooma
#9 2

Sprite

I have the original free plan from Model Boats magazine.
Built it years ago but it is in my to do list.
Ed
Liked by hermank and Madwelshman
#8 2

Sprite

I'm pretty sure that I've seen the plan for Egrette free online too actually.

Will
Precedent Perkasa MTB 49 1/2"
Precedent Fairey Huntsman 46"
Veron Fairey Huntsman 28 42"
Precedent Fairey Huntsman 36"
Aerokits Sea Commander 34"
Aerokits Sea Rover 29 1/2"
SLEC Fairey Huntress 23"
#7 2

Sprite

Egrette - 27in long 9in beam

Have you seen this one, total styrene construction.
Plan and hull kit available from Sarik Hobbies
Ed
Liked by hermank and ChrisF
#6 2

Sprite

I think 30" would certainly be long enough Chris and don't think a longer boat would be very practical to take along every trip - just incase a rescue was required.

Plywood would be my choice for a boat like this - just like all my other Classic Model Power Boats....except the Veron Marlin, and I have some doubts about this boats strength for day to day use due to its lightweight construction.

This boat could well be a workhorse - as well as being a nice model to run so I would like to build mine to take anything that is thrown at it when it is out in all weathers, and at 30" long and built from ply it should be perfect.

Bob.
Never too old to learn
Liked by ChrisF and Madwelshman and
#5 2

Sprite

I just happened to have some spare time this afternoon and thought I'd make a start, won't be able to do much more until later in the week though as it's my wife's birthday tomorrow and her car's in for service the next day. With the poor weather forecast hoping to do a bit more on Faun as well soon.

Was just wondering about the keel with some of the timbers being so big and thought it might be balsa? But most likely is ply. I'll draw it using 6mm though to facilitate the 8mm prop tube.

Going over say 30" might be stretching it, given its simple basic design which looks OK at a smaller size. Also I think it would need some extra frames? Anyway, we can see how it pans out once I've drawn it as standard. I'm thinking that the jaws would have mini hulls like a wide catamaran!
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
Liked by Mike W and hermank and
#4 2

Sprite

Thanks Chris.

Yes, I will be using an M5 8mm o/d MaxiShaft for my recovery Sprite and I am more than happy to go with your suggested "Sprite Plus" measurements.

Slightly bigger will make it more usable more often in our Great British weather 🤣 and a 6mm keel sounds about right to me.

Thank you for making the drawings - I will start making the templates and cutting the plywood as soon as the drawings arrive.........please let me know the cost of the postage and printing etc as I really appreciate the time and effort that you are putting in.

.....and however long it takes you - it would take me 10 times longer.........and wouldn't be as good!

Bob.
Never too old to learn
Liked by Mike W and hermank and
#3 2

Sprite

Chris, i didnt realise you were having a drawing session. I know you're not doing it specifically for me, but thank you anyway.
I'll have to get up in the loft and have a look, I presume it's ply, but couldn't say for sure.
The jaws i would say would need to be very light, as most Sprite that i have seen, seem to have a bit of a bow down attitude. The wide and pretty square bow would lend itself well for adaptation to a recovery vessel.
A 50% bigger Sprite, around 34", that could make a nice model that's not too large to transport, but one that has a handy 2nd purpose too 🤔

Will - Too many ideas, not enough time 🙄
Precedent Perkasa MTB 49 1/2"
Precedent Fairey Huntsman 46"
Veron Fairey Huntsman 28 42"
Precedent Fairey Huntsman 36"
Aerokits Sea Commander 34"
Aerokits Sea Rover 29 1/2"
SLEC Fairey Huntress 23"
Liked by hermank and zooma
#2 2

Sprite

Nick or Will - I'm assuming that the keel is ply but from the drawing it measures as the centre part being 3mm with the doublers at the bow being the same but at the rear the doublers are thicker to accommodate the prop tube but they are 9mm each side!

That's OK I suppose if you drill out for your prop tube but I usually use a thicker central part for the keel, say 6mm to accommodate most of the prop tube, with 6mm doublers each side with usually a bit of filing required for the tube to fit. Size of tube to be decided but maybe 8mm outside diameter? Overall width of keel is almost the same so I will draw as original for now.
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
Liked by Mike W and hermank and
#1 50

Sprite

As Bob mentioned in another thread this model could form a good basis for a recovery boat with its blunt bow that should be quite easy to modify to form a claw of some sort and like him I'd like to have something like that in my fleet. It should also be quite easy to make the claw quickly removeable to use the model as originally intended.

I don't have a lot of time at the moment but I have made a start on the drawings and they shouldn't take too long to complete. Whilst it's just the bulkheads and certain other parts that are required I always draw the plan and side elevation as well (which is where I've started) so that when printed off there is uniformity between all the parts and of course it can easily be resized as one would like and it may be a good idea to increase it in length a bit from 23" if it is used for recovery?

I'll draw it as standard initially if someone wants to build it like that and then modify it for recovery and anything else that springs to mind. I'm already thinking of making the cabin and rear hatch as one piece but otherwise not straying too far away from the original design which would spoil the simplicity.

Feel free to make any comments and observations and suggested changes as we go along.

Chris
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
Liked by Mike W and hermank and

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