Thanks Dave, yes the old lady is now stable and solid enough to work on. Have a few new bits to make, two cabin roof's and may even re-deck her as the balsa deck has lots of damage and filler would not look good so get family to grab a few handfuls of coffee stirers as they make great deck planks. I am going to put dads 27mhz radio system back in. Then decide which motor is best suited. By the way I still DON'T HAVE A PC. The shop said it has gone past repair so I'll have to save up for a replacement. Unless I find one on free cycle.

Hi Colin
Good to hear your PC is fixed and the Sea Queen is well on the way to final restoration. I look forward to seeing some on water pics in due course.

Chris
Most wood contains resin of some sort so it could interfere with the resin we apply. Unless you are intending to go surfing with your model I doubt it will suffer quite like a surfboard!😁

Used sparingly on a clean surface it will both protect and harden the surface.

I suppose my early modelling when building and painting model planes has made me so keen to keep the weight light. Some of my early efforts looked truly realistic and flew like a brick

Happy days
dave

Well Chris I have used this method on various models over the last 50+years and not had one delaminate. I prefer this method for repairs to old boats that do a lot of miles travelling to and from shows in my trailer, as a lot of my vintage boats don't get to sail very often and live in my trailer all year round so need protection from damp air, especially ones made of paper mache or card. The exteriors are coated with eezikote and .8 gsm glass cloth. This is very good protection for balsa and other soft hulls, including polystyrene packing boxes that I used for barges and narrow boats.

Interesting! 😲 I already decided to go a different route. I'll save the resins for major construction work.
Ciao Doug 😎

Back to the polyester! I have just read an item about coating wood with polyester, quoting an apparently well known Australian surf board maker, saying that there are chemicals in the wood that prevent the soaked in resin from setting. it sets on the surface and all appears well, but not deep down and it may all become detached some time in the future. Too late for me though as I have just done mine!

Chris

It's amazing how many of us have the same types of model boats. I have 2 crash tenders (34" + 46") A fairey Huntsman 31 (34"), a swordfish 28", 50" Aerokits PT109, Veron RAF RTTL launch, 34" Perkasa grp hull. And working on an old Veron Thames Police launch. I wonder if it's an age thing, as I'm looking for a 46" Sea Commander to çomplete my set. Watching with interest your decommissioning of the Sea Queen. Mind the chemicals please, as I don't want to hear of any of you lot in hospital. Best wishes all, Dave W 😊

Muchas gracias 👍
My Sea Scout project is very similar; built by my Dad ca 1965. I was about 14. Whipper-snapper, as Granny used to say 🤔
Look forward to the pics / vid.
Cheers Doug 😎

Sorry for delay answering but my broadband died. Well the consistency I used was like normal liquid paint / pouring cream. Bit messy but good results, kept workshop at 30 degrees c.
The object of this job is to restore an otherwise dead boat built by my dad in the late 1950s. Although a bit heavier it isn't going to be used except on special occasions. And will be handed down to my grandson in due coarse.

Hi Dave, Ta 👍
After thinking back to the fun (and pong!) of laminating my destroyer hull I came to similar conclusions 😉 Won't have to mess about with acetone either, not so easy to buy in quantity here. Little bottles of nail varnish remover are expensive 🤔
I don't need to add strength. Just want to clean up and seal the old girl prior to painting the inside with Hammerite and subsequently fitting the new brushless and electronics. Got curious after reading all that about sealing with resin! Cheers Doug 😎

Hi Doug
Resin is heavy and applying by coating the inside of a boat will if the wood is porous absorb lots and greatly increase the weight.
The thinner it is the more it will be absorbed.
Layup resin is of a similar consistency to liquid brushing paint (not the gel type). it goes more pourable as the temperature increases. it is much thinner than the isopon resin sold in many car repair packs.
Adding styrene will thin the mixture allowing it to penetrate the glass cloth or matting. it is worked well into the mat to keep the weight to a minimum and any excess is mopped up with paper towels. After several coats the fibreglass will be formed and dries rock hard over a couple of days if the correct temperature is maintained. High temps will reduce the time but will be more difficult to work with as the gel stage will happen much quicker.
Sorry to rabbit on a bit but I am trying to warn you that you may end up with a very heavy model if you do not use sparingly.

If you can get the consistency similar to yacht varnish you can, like me, paint inside the boat including the underside of the deck. Paint out any runs and remove any excess with paper towels. You really only need a very thin coating. if you need to add strength then use some cloth or matting and work the resin well in and mop off any excess with paper towels.

If you want to use your brushes and mixing pots again Acetone is the best cleaner but do keep it away from the resin.

Both your alternatives would work just as well.

It must be Summertime as we keep having rain showers!

Cheers
Dave

Hi Dave, very interesting and useful but not all we (I) wanted to know!
The main question was / is the viscosity "how runny"! We are not talking about laying up forms here but coating the hull inside by pouring.
Think I'll just use Ezekote (just found a dealer in Germany👍) or diluted yacht varnish 😉 Can buy this down the road at the Baumarkt 👍
cheers Doug 😎

Hi All
Polyester resin uses Styrene as the solvent. Over time this evaporates and the resin becomes too thick to use for layup of fibreglass. Adding more styrene will restore the resin to its correct fluid layup state. if you use large quantities stored in large cans this is a real lifesaver. Smaller cans do not suffer quite the same as they are usually quickly used.
Hope this helps your understanding of Polyester resin.
Cheers
Dave

Thanks for the reply Colin. You originally posted that you used polyester. is that the same as styrene or a different thing altogether? Also, how runny was it when you applied it to the hull, like water or thicker?

Chris

Keep Acetone well away from your fibreglass on your boat. it will eat it away, only use it for cleaning tools. I found out the hard way. Lucky it was a very old boat and was almost beyond any more repair. No one was around to warn me.

Hi Doug and Chris, Well good question ? So I rang the local fiber glass moulders to see what they had supplied me, as no label on the jar. it is styrene, and I was told to add 10 parts resin to 1 part styrene. And add Hardner/activator as normal before use or spray activator over the coated area, that is the way I did it, and it works. I think it took about 1 hour to be touch dry, but I left overnight before recoating. Apparently this mix is sprayable using a high pressure low volume spraygun. ONLY USE ACETONE TO REMOVE RESINS AND CLEAN TOOLS AND BRUSHES, DO NOT THIN WITH ACETONE. Best of luck Colin.

Hi Colin, the 'Gloop Factor' would interest me very much too for my Sea Scout renovation, probably also for my old destroyer as well. 👍
Cheers Doug 😎
PS and the old Billing Fish Cutter 😉

Hello Colin, regarding your use of polyester resin inside the hull, did you use the standard mix and consistency or did you thin it,if so, what did you thin it with? Was is like water, or more "gloopy"? I have my supply of polyester ready to go but do not want to make a mess of it.

Chris

Left to harden for 4 days, then got the hamerite white and thinned down to spraying consistency and poured it inside, rotating in all directions to coat completely pour out paint and leave to dry over night then using the paint saved from first coat I recoated it again. So now the Queen has a nice white interior. Will now look to do the fitting out of controls before finishing the outside. I do wish I could upload pictures, but will do a full set when I get a computer. I'm thinking of using a 600 motor, as I have a couple in my motor box not earmarked for a specific build.

Step one coated inside of hull with polyester resin, poured in and rotated till all surfaces were coated. Poured excess into baking tray lined with greaseproof paper and mixed it with sand and left to set (later to be cut into small sections to use as ballast weights) Now leave for two days to fully cure before painting with White Hamerite.

Hi Guys
Looks like we have the same boats!!!
I have a Sea Hornet(built from the original plans), Crash Tender 48", Sea Commander and I bought a Precedent Huntsman 31(fibreglass hull)with building instructions.
The instructions were sold as plans, but, with a lot of time with a photocopier they could be turn into plans.
Or scan into AutoCAD and resized!!!
My mate has a Swordsman which he finally finished after over 40 years(with plans).
All the boats are running brushless motors.
Canabus

Hi Boatshed, the Queen was treated with TRICLOROETHANE. Sorry can't divulge where but it was done in a laboratory by a guy who owed me a massive favour from when I was working. Even I don't know exactly how its done but sure worked. Wish I could get all my old boats done, as you I have many including an original fireboat from 1957. Also a Sea Urchin, and two Swordsman, a large launch from the early 60's Caroline is 56 inches, plus a 46 inch tug, about 8 other boats that need work, not to mention 5 sailing boats. Most of the fleet are used for displays at vintage and steam rally's. My wife and I spend the winters doing restoration work on models that get donated to us. Good night. Colin.

We need some pictures ?? Where did you get The Queen Dipped. I take it that's what you have had done. I have a Sea Queen and got her from a boot sale about 6 years ago.Still haven't started work on her. I have a few Aerokits,
Sea Hornet, I made back in the 70's.
Crash Tender, 48"
Sea Commander, also from a boot fair
Crash Tender 34" still in box unmade, 1994 when 50 were made on the 50th anniversary of the Aerokit model. When I saw it advertised in Model Boats grabbed one very quickly. Also have a Precedent Huntsman 31. Purchased that about 25 years ago. Had a 850 electric motor in her. Got a bit of a leak in the hull that's now sorted but she also needs a refurb now. As well as a Precedent Huntsman hull with no cabin top, going to make a top of some kind but different to the original. Hopefully will get round to them all one day. Plus quite a few other model boats.

Well just got the Queen back home, it looks quite good, (big relief) as all paint and varnish has gone as well as the oil. Just stained where it had been, the epoxy I had used to stabilize the outside of the hull hasn't been affected, so tomorrow I will coat the inside to make sure that all seems are sealed before fitting the mounts for servo, motor, ESC? And radio. Then applying a coat of Hamerite smooth white. Hope to get my PC back next week then I can upload some photos. I can't decide which motor to use, 600 motor or a 6volt geared decaperm. Any thoughts would be useful. Thanks Colin.

Colin, if she see's that post you will die!!!!

Might have, but it was pinned with brass pins as well, so will be sealing inside with epoxy resin, then coating the hull with eezicote and extra fine glass cloth before painting and vanishing. Well at least she's stripped for action. it must have taken years off her. (Maybe I should get the wife dipped)? Don't tell her.

Ooh, naughty boy !! 😉😉😁

BTW: surprised it didn't remove all the glue as well 🤔
Check the joints!! Cheers Doug 😎

Well tomorrow I'll be collecting my Queen, apparently she held together and is now oil free, also varnish, paint and window free. Can't wait to get her home and start work again. Will reveal all tomorrow night.

Even after Trike not all of the oil may be removed from the wood and could show up later . Trike works really well on metals and fabrics but is hit and miss on wood. Good luck all the same.
John

Thanks for your feedback, I'm not trying to do a major rebuild just get the old Queen looking as good as possible, I think if it holds together after degreasing I'll paint the interior with epoxy resin to stabilize it. Then paint with hamerite smooth white to make it easier to keep clean. As for a motor I have a decoperm 6volt with gear box, or a Johnson 600 to choose from at present fitted with a 3 bladed 30mm brass prop. Also have the original 2 channel 27Mhz RX and tx. But not sure what to fit by way of speed control, I have an old variable sweep rheostat that works well. Wish I could upload pics it might help. Have a choice of 6volt SLA or 7.2volt nicads.
I would like to keep to keep it as near to how dad could have used it in the late 50s early 60s. This project is more for family than me actually using it, just family history to pass on to my grandson. Thanks Colin

Was banned long time back, we used to have some in the dry cleaners that I worked in way back. I still have a small bottle of it in my garage.

Hi Colin
I was on the same journey with a IC boat but with bow damage!!
In the end I removed the centre forward deck and the centre of the bottom bow to stern.
The stringer looked OK from the top, but, underneath the fuel had worked it's way in.
I ended up replacing the stringers with larger ones and replacing the keel.
Reskinned between the stringers and keel.
Replacing a centre section of the bow which had been poorly repaired.
Replaced the centre deck.
I bit of a nightmare!!
Because of moving over to brushless motor I custom made an engine hatch.
The radio hatch was missing(all 8x8 inches) so I custom made one!!
It still not finish because of other projects, but, one day!!!

Thanks Doug, your concerns are well founded, I have had previous experience of the stuff, so will be letting the experts do it for me in a lab. Yes it is a banned substance but some specialized labs can use it, and I still had a contact in such a place. Don't tell the wife about the old Queen.
Colin.

PS
"1,1,2-Trichloroethane
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
1,1,2-Trichloroethane
1,1,2-TCA
vinyl trichloride
beta-trichloroethane
Chemical formula
C2H3Cl3

Lethal dose or concentration (LD, LC):
LCLo (lowest published)
13,100 mg/m3 (cat, 4.5 hr)
2000 ppm (rat, 4 hr)[2]
US health exposure limits (NIOSH):
PEL (Permissible)
TWA 10 ppm (45 mg/m3) [skin][1]
REL (Recommended)
Ca TWA 10 ppm (45 mg/m3) [skin][1]
IDLH (Immediate danger)
Ca [100 ppm][1]
Related compounds
1,1,1-Trichloroethane; Trichloroethylene

1,1,2-Trichloroethane, or 1,1,2-TCA, is an organochloride solvent with the molecular formula C2H3Cl3. it is a colourless, sweet-smelling liquid that does not dissolve in water, but is soluble in most organic solvents. it is an isomer of 1,1,1-trichloroethane.

It is used as a solvent and as an intermediate in the synthesis of 1,1-dichloroethane.

1,1,2-TCA is a central nervous system depressant and inhalation of vapors may cause dizziness, drowsiness, headache, nausea, shortness of breath, unconsciousness, or cancer."
You have been warned! Not surprisingly it's use and production has been banned since 1996.
Doug
Oh and it is an ozone killer - contributes to the greenhouse effect and global warming. I'm not a tree hugger, but my name isn't Trump either! 😉

OMG thought that stuff was banned years ago ?? 😲
Wear a mask and only use it outside or you'll get a rotten headache at the very least. I know this stuff, and trichloroethylene, from my electronics sandwich course end of the seventies. Stinks abominably is extremely volatile and carcinogenic. 😡 Have fun 🤔
What you want with an old Queen is your business 😉😉🤐

Hi guys, thanks for suggestions, have managed to get some trichloroethane, degreeser have tried it on an old hull that was oil soaked and it left the wood clean and dry, but beware as it is highly dangerous to inhale the fumes. So hopefully will try on the old Queen at the weekend. Will let you know how it goes. Thanks for the interest Colin.

Hi Mark, Hmm! The bags you mean are desiccants, so called because they absorb water! Not oil 🤔 Concrete / cement dust may work (reasonably) well on roads after accidents / oil, diesel spillages but I doubt it will be effective enough to suck oil out of the wood. Dave is right, the only sure way is surgery. Bon chance, Doug 😎

i know this may sound a little bit obscure if you can get hold of the little silicone bags that they put in electrical goods if you empty the bags thevsilicone beads are very obsorbant ,another thing you can use but its very messy is concrete dust

Hi Colin
If the wood is impregnated with castor and ether you have no option other than to cutout all the affected panels back to the formers and fit replacements. You will need to add stringers to the formers so you can glue the new panels in place. Gorilla white wood glue will work well or epoxy.
You can not paint over an oily surface. if you are lucky it will just be the engine bay that is affected.
Please keep us posted on your progress
Kind Regards
Dave

2nd day of refurb, trying to kill the oil on inside, just don't seem to be able to dry it out, anyone got any ideas that might work. I've tried methylated spirit, engine degreaser and electronic component cleaner. So far it seems to dry out but after about 3 hours it's oily again. Or is there a paint that would cover and seal it.

Sorry no pics as mobile app won't let me upload them and my PC is dead.