Very sorry to hear that Ron!
"There but for the Grace of God ...."
At least you have the consolation of some fine work on the Pilot Cutter 😉
Hope you enjoy many many happy hours sailing her, 👍

That is very true Ed it was a sad day when my tug's left , they were built to tug as well and had a few trips to balne Moore for the tugging it's what I loved doing.
But I'm enjoying this build and looking forward to sailing her for the first time

Hi kmbcsecretary,

It's a shame you had to sell your tugs!
I collect 1/32 scale tug and boy can they be very heavy...
Although you had to switch to sail. Building the boat is almost all the fun! anyway for me it is!

Ed

Nice job there Doug nice detailing , I've not got the fingers for that scale (I have no feeling in end of my fingers ) the smallest scale I've worked on is 1/32 an MMM eurogirl tug and eldergarth tug but had to sell them last year because I couldn't lift them anymore.
This Bristol pilot cutter is 1/16 and finding fittings in this scale is getting harder so no choice but to make the fittings my self.
But it keeps me busy and some what active

Your boat is beginning to look suspiciously 'Museum Standard'!👍

Yep, shame about Kingston, but can understand why Robin didn't want to build for Frank's kits anymore (or anyone else's for that matter) wouldn't fit in with his No Hectic policy!

Re 'tin bashing! Here's a couple of examples of my last attempts from several years ago, from my H Class 1936 destroyer, scale 1/72. I note that they need the years of neglect cleaning off 🤔 I'll pass it off as North Atlantic Convoy duty muck😁
First two pics 20mm Oerlikons, made from 0.5mm brass sheet, 1mm copper for the carriage frames and 1 and 2mm brass tube. Guns can elevate 😉 Recoil 'springs' are shrink sleeve, but I now have some suitable real springs. Will try to finish them off when Hotspur comes up for refit completion.
Pic 3 is one of the depth charge throwers port side. Core is a 1/4" wood dowel, the rest is 0.5mm brass, tinned copper wire and 2mm brass tube for the firing cylinder. I used John Lambert (RIP) plans for both.
Pic 4, the thrower on deck and copper wire ladder rails, crewman shanghaied from Monty's 1/72 Airfix 8th Army. A Desert Rat on board!
Under the black square is the hole for the aft torpedo mount. Underneath is the speaker for the "Whoop Whoop". That part of the 'deck' is just painted aircraft silk!
Must get back into practise now I've got nowt more important to do 😁
Cheers Doug 😎

Thank you Doug much appreciated this is the build fully caught up now so everything from now on will be as happens.
i was advised by frank nylet of nylet sails that robin used to make the hulls for his yacht kits but was told would no longer supply them as no replacement had been found to take over the moulds and as you say is a very sad loss to the modeling would i have always found his hulls to be outstanding quality.
would be nice to see those hinges if you get round to making them , i have tried in the past but failed badly but no doubt i will try again one day.

here we have the main boom, jib and yard arm ready for the fittings to be added before attaching the rig.

he we have the hatch covers that were made earlier the forward hatch covers the power switch and battery charging points.
the mid-ships hatch houses the receiver and the main cabin houses the sail and rudder servos.
the last picture is just to show with the hatch covers on

Excellent fittings Ron 👍
Have given me inspiration to make some mini hinges for a cabin door on my Sea Scout. 😉 Ciao, Doug 😎

here is some of the deck furniture i have made the chimney stack and storage brackets, these are not in the folder and found these after researching the mascotte and finding detailed pictures of the vessel.

Very sad if that did happen 🤔😭
Last I heard is that Robin wanted to retire to spend more time with his Missus and go travelling, not to mention his sadly neglected own modelling!
He apparently retired in April 2016 and stopped all Mail Order. But retained the moulds with the intention of still making a few hulls To Order BUT for Collection Only! Positively no more Mail Order hectic.
Sad if that didn't work out. Cheers Doug 😎

ok here we have some pictures of some of the fittings i have already made using brass. i have taken the pictures with the drawings that come in the folder.

That's interesting Doug I was adviced that most of the moulds were cut up for fire wood as he couldn't find anyone that could make the hulls to his standard.

Ta for the info Ron 👍
I can see you also used bags of my 'secret' ingredient 😉
Your choice of woods really does her proud. Shall watch progress with great interest 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎
BTW: I believe most of the Kingston moulds were taken over by someone else! Have a record of it somewhere in the 'electronic stash'. Will try and dig it out.

Thanks Doug it took about 4 weeks in total to complete the planking.
The varnish is Wilko's own brand clear gloss yacht varnish which was sanded with fine wet and dry sand paper between each coat to get that smooth finish on the final coat.
I will show all the hand made fittings next which I have already started making
Ron

Beeuuutiful woodwork 👍
Which varnish did you use?
Love the contrasting woods 👍

The forward section

Here is where the build is at now this was taken after the second coat of yacht varnish, all in all it has now had 4 coats of varnish and is ready for painting the lower deck.

Nothing much was done for a while after this stage due to my health halting the build for about 6 months.
But I have started the build again and decided to post it on here for you all.
The next stage was planking the decking and in whales , the deck is planned in walnut and beech which was glued and pinned to the sub deck using titebond 2 .the in whales were lined with mahogany on the inside and walnut on the outside topped with a walnut top rail made using 5mm square section bent and glued together again with titebond 2.

After fitting the 2 lead gel batteries in place (6v 4mah) either side of the mast support and fitting the electrics the sub deck 4mm ply was fitted and glued in place using gorilla glue.
If you hadn't guessed I decided to try using the brown gorilla glue on this build to see how it fairs compared to the usual resin and normal wood glue's and I must admit I have been impressed with the results so far .
Sorry no pics of this stage as I forgot to take them at the time.
This picture shows the area were most of the electrics will be situated for easy access.

The strengtheners for where the main mast will be fixed in place through the deck were glued in place with gorilla glue and fibreglassed in once the glue had gone of again this timber was an of cut that was to hand but this needed to be substantial as I would be using 12mm dowel for the main mast.

The next job was to fit the bulk heads and the deck shelf strips around the edges.
I had some scrap pieces of 8mm OSB board so I used this for the bulk heads which were glued in place using gorilla glue then fibreglassed in once the glue had gone of. The shelf strips are 10mm square oak that were fixed 6mm below final deck hieght as I will be using 4mm ply for the sub deck followed by 2mm planking strips in walnut and beech.