Apropos 'Hairyplanes'
Use an in Runner if you go brushless for a plane.
Generally smaller and lighter than outrunners, easier to mount, and you don't need the high torque of outrunners like we do to get a heavy boat moving in the wet stuff 👍
I have a styrene 'Flying Wing/Boat' in the cellar I haven't had the guts to try out yet! 😲

Wasn't rocket science to fix your TX, fault jumped out and bit me when I opened the case! Main thing; it won't now be wasted. 😎

I agree Martin, Barosso can be a little on the 'heavy' side.
Aaaah! Gentlemen's Relish 😋😋
When did I last see that, let alone taste it 😭

You know, my son bought a bottle of Bardolino with him to the boatyard when we lived afloat. And it was gorgeous if I recall, especially with some Gentleman's Relish and Rochefort on French bread. We preferred it to Barosso.
Enjoy, you clever man, enjoy.

Martin

Doug, you are my hero. I am so pleased you found the fault and as you said in the e-mail, Stormin Norman wasn't so far off. Trouble is , with a 5 channel set on the beg, I am now thinking again about model airyplanes! I found most bits of a Skystreak 32" that I made about 4 years ago, still in good nick and begging for a brushless motor. Failing that a flying wing I have plans for. Doh!

Cheers,
Martin

Hi Martin,
Stage Two.
Just bound your Orange RX to the Spektrum TX first try.
Woiks poyfeckly!! (Pardon the Brooklyn accent Ed!😁)
So both your RXs are now bound to the TX Martin.
DON'T TOUCH THE TRAINER SWITCH WHEN YOU GET 'EM BACK!!!!
And ALWAYS switch on the TX first, RX second 👍

What do we learn from all this?
The cure is always quicker to find when you have the 'patient' under your nose! On the OP table so to speak. Remote diagnosis is fraught with pitfalls.
All's well .... 😊
Next patient please 😉
Just poured me a glass of Bardolino Chiaretto to celebrate 😋
(Well, the sun's ALWAYS 'Over the Yardarm' SOMEWHERE!😁)
Cheers All 😎

Thanks Haverlock.
Couldn't resist a little bit of 'chain pulling' 😁😁

awwwwwwwwwww I liked the escape of magic smoke more than a " it worked" outcome!! Seriously bloody good job.

Well now .. er.. How do I .. er.. explain this? 😲
I just put your TX back together, wired up the RX.
Switched on the RX --> Rapid flashing as usual.
Held on the Trainer switch, switched on the TX and
.
.
.
.
Sharp crack, puff of magic smoke 😡--> RIP TX 😲
.
.
.
.
.
Seriously tho folks 😁
RX bound first try. All 4 stick channels work fine. 😊
My test rig only has 4 mini servos mounted.
Will post video evidence shortly!
Mystery solved 😊 Next please 😁
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Ed,
Wouldn't have happened on my watch when I ran a production test department for Rank Telcomm😉 back in the 70s!
Don't know yet if it caused further damage. I doubt it as one of the wires was severed so it couldn't send any current anywhere. if it were shorted it would just be stuck in Trainer mode (I hope!)
Just quieted my rumblin' tum 😜 so about to effect repairs, more later.
Cheers for now, Doug

Hi Doug,

What ever happened to QC?
Good thing you were able to trace this problem!
Now did that short do anything to any component?

Hi Martin, looks like I found your snag!
Simpler than I had feared, looks like an assembly fault so it could never ever have bound! So much for Final Product Testing !!
It's not the Trainer switch that's at fault, although Stormin Norman was on the right track! 👍 The wires from the Trainer switch to the main board were trapped under one of the case screws and damaged 🤔
See pics.
Now to feed my rumblin' tum 😲 then set about repairs.
More later. Cheers, Doug

Haverlock, I wouldn't have a scooby doo what to look for or order, so if the lecktrickmeister gives me a link and it's affordable, I jump on it.
But thanks for the info.

Martin

to late now but for the future if you need stuff like bridge recs or anything else electronic have a look on EBAY way cheaper than RS
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR6.TRC1.A0.H0.Xbridge+rectifier.TRS0&_nkw=bridge+rectifier&_sacat=0

As to extra channels on my African Queen in addition to forwards and back plus left and right I have steam whistle engine sound and speed ( its all electric with a fake steam engine and boiler) and steam engine start stop.

Mornin' Martin, that would be great😊 Many thanks 👍
No absolute panic cos I can use one of the duff ones for aligning the gears, so don't break ya neck😉
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Doug,
I'll see to that later today and try to get it off to you on Monday.

Cheers,
Martin

Martin, I forgot to mention😲 Thread pitch 0.6 if you can. if not 0.5.
Let me know then I can tap the reducer to suit!
Thanks again, Doug

Each to his own Martin, 👍
The functions I listed can also be easily translated to the merchant marine etc; cranes, davits, NAV radars etc. But I know you'll never build anything like that. A chaque un a son goût! 😉
I just like to try a few different types of ships!
And of course for me half the fun is getting the function to work in the first place 😁 BTW: I also started as a 'Free sailor' but always had ambitions which the pocket money then couldn't support!

Many many thanks for your offer to make a shaft which I'll gladly take you up on👍 My normally inexhaustible patience is exhausted 😡
Total length required is 10cm, thread length 1.5cm please.
That gives me room for the thread reducer and a lock nut.
Now I can concentrate on the mount for the Target to get the height correct for the gears I need to use to get down to the very low mounted shaft.
Good luck with the service guy, if all else fails I'll gladly have a look for you - no promises though! Will PM you now.
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS: think I'll stick to machining brass only in future😉

Ah, OK. I am so anti military, I can't even think of all that stuff, although I am very anti-working features on models. I find them a bit nafferoony on the whole. Go, stop, left, right, that's me. I ain't even bothered about backuds. Goes with my free sailing/IC/early electric background I suppose. Lights only needed at night and I wouldn't be sailing in the dark. Smoke looks like some old geezer having a fag under the deck.....I know you'll argue. Anyway, for my sort of model, a third channel is a waste. And as it's a switch, I couldn't even use it as a jib hallyard.

I'll try ringing the service bloke if I can find him. We'll see what he wants to charge, but with postage it'll be silly probably.
If you'd like me to do you a shaft, let me know. I have loads of 3mm silver steel for my old American slot car restorations. Gimme a length between extremes and I'll do you one.

Cheers,
Martin

Hi Martin,
First your last question😉
"What DO you do with a 3rd channel?"
Example: 5 foot destroyer!
1 Throttle.
2 Rudder
3 Gun rotation, servo and pulleys
4 Torpedo tube rotation, servo and pulleys
5 Smoke switch, servo and microswitch (Smoke could be linked to the ESC to free this channel for the ASDIC pinger!)
6 Split into four functions (by misusing the gear down lever on my Graupner MC-10😉) for
Whoop whoop, Fog horn, searchlights and signal lights, NAV lights.
All switched via a home brew decoder / switch board and 5V relays!
Alles klar? 😉

Re the DX5e; if I were you I'd let a (supposedly?) Spektum trained guy look at it first. With luck he'll have a service manual or at least a circuit diagram, which I don't 🤔 and should know the binding procedure backwards.
I could only do some rudimentary tests without the circuit diagram, and make some educated guesses.
I could at least try binding it with a variety of Rxs, including my Spektrun RXs which all work faultlessly with my DX6. Up to you, will PM my address anyway. I could at least check, with a simple RF meter, if the damn thing is transmitting at all!
Just thought - if you're going to smash it anyway ........ 😉😁
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS: 4th attempt at the prop shaft for the cutter also failed 😡
She just does not want to get her bum wet!! Too long 'on the shelf' 🤔

Bridge rectifier ordered from RS.
I shan't be doing any more RC buying, btw., although by the time I finish another boat I might spring for another one like I just got, pre bound, 20 quid, then between them I can put and take between the boats.
Plus my old 27 meg stuff of course, which I haven't even tried yet.

What DO you do with a 3rd channel?

Martin

I'll have to get in touch with RS then. Thanks. I'd much rather buy electrics than make!

All these aftermarket Rxs claim they are compatible with other companys' Txs and hundreds of thousands appear to be just that.

I'm still pretty sure that DX5e is duff. I read on an American forum they're calling them Wreckums, so I ain't the only one. And I ain't paying their prices for an Rx either when the Orange and the Storm are, effectively clones thereof. I was surprised to find the things wouldn't bind to the FlySky, but then the manual for that is crap and doesn't cover binding to any other Rx, even though it's headed "other Txs. and Rxs. So, the Rx thing has cost me 15 quid in all. The 50 quid I paid for the TX is what pisses me off big time. I take it there's no reason why the Flysky shouldn't bind to the Storm and Orange is there?

If I did send you the DX5e would you have a look at it for me? I'd rather pay you than someone over here I never heard of..

Cheers,
Martin

Hi Martin, don't bother trying to make a bridge rectifier. That's fraught with possible pitfalls for novice and the individual hi current diodes are usually more expensive, and normally only sold in packs or rolls of dozens or even hundreds and thousands!🤔
Use a ready made bridge like I did😉, see attached pic of my test board for the Target.
This one from RS will do nicely
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7514424/
It's also the cheapest, £7.47 with free delivery, and smallest pack I could find, 5 pieces. Which gives you a few for your other Taycols as well 😊

Another advantage is that the bridge package has the +, - and ~ symbols marked on the case so you know immediately what to connect where, as per my previous mail.
If you build a bridge with single diodes I'll have to tell you how to identify each end, where it goes, and where the inputs and outputs are 😲

Re ESCs; I take it the little red one is the Simprop??
Looks about the thumbnail size of the midget thing that blew up in my PTB. 😡 See 2nd pic 😲
The one with the heat sink on top looks more robust and trustworthy.
I'd be tempted to use that. Any Maker / Model ID on it?

Your experience with the Storm RX just underlines my recommendation to use A with A and not A with X!😉

First off I'D say take your Spektrum TX to the UK Service man mentioned somewhere above and get him to check it out and show you the binding.
If you are then still determined to smash it send it to me instead! I might be able to salvage something useful from it 😁
Have fun😁 Cheers, Doug 😎
PS: Another FlySky TX!?
Your 'economising' is beginning to get expensive 😭

Well, I tried to bind the new Storm Rx to both the DX5e and the new (and proven) Flysky and it won't bind either. So now I have 2 cheap (but proven by others as reliable) 6 channel Rxs, which don't work, DX5e which seems faulty and a Flysky that works well with its own Rx. to which it was pre bound at the factory.

I will stick to FlySky in future.
Martin

Thanks, Doug, I haven't a scoobie what you're on about in the description, but will ask when I get closer. I have to make the Bridge thingie yet. Do you have a link to that, so I can attempt to buy the bits, although Maplin have gone napoo, so I don't know where I can get lecktrick parts from now.

I buy what I do because I can't afford to pay out forthe stuff with the same name. if FlySky or Turanis had existed when I bought the (apparently useless) Spektrum I'd have bought that and stuck with it, but ordered this Storm thing weeks ago when the whole non binding Spektrum/Orange thing first came up. I thought I would try an alternative Rx, risking little money. The Storm arrived today. Haven't tried to bind it yet. if it won't bind to the Spektrum, I'll bind the bugger to the Flysky and just use these 6 channel things in 2 channel boats.
If the Spektrum really is duff, I might get a FlySky Tx. only and see if these will bind to it.
Coincidentally, I have just taken pics of the ESCs for you and here they are.


Cheers,
Martin

Hi Martin,
You do like living dangerously don't you!? 😉
Why don't you ever buy anything from the same manufacturer to be sure it will work, or have the chance of regress if it don't!
Anyway, since you've been an' gorn an' dunnit -
Ignore the PPM, that just means Pulse Position Modulation.
A type of TX modulation waveform that you don't need for the Spektrum TX. Forget the Stat as well. I suspect that that should be SAT for a Satellite RX. No that don't mean you can watch telly on it😉 it's just a connection for a secondary RX. Never ever seen one in action!

The others are the usual aircraft / chopper functions in a particular TX Mode, so you can ignore the labels. We can use the channel outputs for whatever we want in a boat. Attached is a description of the binding I found in an RC flight forum. A little bit Chenglish but clear enough I think.

Your Simprop 18A job should be more than man enough for your Supermarine. I don't expect that it will eat more than 10 or 12Amps.
Put a 15A fuse in the supply between motor and the mod board that makes it run ahead & astern; i.e. the output of the bridge rectifier. That will protect the motor coil and brushes.
Put another in the + from battery to ESC to protect the ESC and rectifier. Rectifier should be rated at least 20A peak forward current. 30A might be better in case your Supermarine is hungry!
In that case use 20A fuses.
10A was enough for my little Target 😉

See attached pic for the mods to the Supermarine.
Connections from the rectifier board to motor are-
+ and - of the rectifier go to the brush terminals.
Of the two ~ (= AC) one goes the field coil.
The other goes to the - wire from the ESC.
+ from the ESC goes to the other end of the field coil.
If the motor runs wrong way (with respect to throttle stick) just reverse the brush wires as usual. Don't forget the suppression capacitors, you may not need 'em due to the spark suppression by the rectifier but ... JIC😉
Bon chance mon ami 👍
Cheers,Doug 😎

Hi Doug, sorry, missed this one. I have the Taycol Supermarine for the CT. I have a Simprop 18 Amp Brushed ESC and a couple of big uns with cooling which I will photograph and attach to another post.

I have just received the new Rx. it's a Storm S603, but it has plugoles that I am not familiar with. At one end it says PPM, then Batt, Aux, Gear,Rudd,Elev,Aile and Thro, with the bind socket sideways under the throttle end and something else with a wee gold pad next to the bind plug socket. But at the other end of the case there is a port marked STAT. So PPM and Stat are new to me. I had a gander on Youtube, but no explanation. Naturally being Chinese there are no instructions.
Anything I should bear in mind before I try binding it to the DX5e?

Cheers,
Martin

Hi Martin, what make an' model are the ESCs?
Don't think you'll need the cooling with your Taycols 😉
Which one do you intend to use in the CT by the way?
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS: I see that the Management (aka 'er indoors!) is still keeping at least one thumbscrew on 😁 (Wish I could stick a highly appropriate Smiley in here 🤔)
Just sanded my fingerprints off on the PTB. Right time for a bank job? 😁

Hi tt, I think you'll find that all Combo sets are pre-bound 👍

Well done and pre bound that a top class selling point I think for others to follow .👍

As reported elsewhere, I have today received the FlySky RC set and it works...perfectly.....straight outa the box as it's PRE-BOUND! And my dear bride has let me have it before my birthday. Although I still have to wait for the Crash Tender Yeoman fittings kit!
I would like to use something old in the Crash Tender as it is old itself, so I guess I'd better have a look at your circuit diagrams Doug,as far as suppression and even ESCs are concerned. I have found 3 ESCs today. One I knew of and 2, WITH their instruction in best Chenglish that I had no memory of! Water -cooled too! I'll send you a photo of them.

Cheers,
Martin

Not guilty! True a had a BMW 520 when I first came here 32 years ago, scrapped it after 10 years and 150000km.
Been driving Toyota for about 12 years now "Nothing's impossible" 😁
Await developments with interest. Cheers Doug 😎
Thinks; maybe the doc was asking for a Bio Mechanical Widget! 😁😁

Well as said several times above, until I started this thread, I had never taken the Tx. out of the box. I was astonished to find that I had got it in 2011!. in the ensuing time I have decided against aircraft, had a heart attack, stent fitted and a small stroke-like thing, moved house, changed cars 4 times, ceterah, ceterah. Life, simply put.
The battery contacts, as with anything else, I can see on it are like new, unlike me. I know! Maybe it's that stent they put in. I heard the surgeon ask for a BMW rod, to put in my arm, so that dastardly Doug is something to do with it.

I'll try it on the new Rx. when it comes and then if it still doesn't flash and do what it should I will take our chum in Munchen up on his kind offer and I'll pay the postage!

Oh dear, time for another night's lousy sleep. Goodnight all,
Martin

Yes John, can happen but only at the battery terminal connections , if the batteries are left in and the unit not used for a long time.
If that was the case here Martin wouldn't even get the one green light he sees. As I understand it until now the TX never came out of the box and never had batteries in it. Cheers, Doug 😎

In view of the age of the Tx has corrosion of terminals or wiring been considered. So called "black wire " corrosion can creep under insulation and cause breaks. I would open the case and check continuity of wires and everything else I could and clean the terminals. Could be that simple.Maybe spot of switch cleaner or just WD40 on switches and contacts. OR all over. it worked for my two Futaba T6 x's One of which is the 5oth Rip Max anniversary one. They had been in a nice dry ,clean garage, for 8 yrs, but there was still a little corrosion present on the terminals I have yet to test the Rx's and servo's as a few days after obtaining the models I became unable to get int my workshop.I was given such a lot by this lovely widow and her lovely .daughter. They wanted nothing for all the kit and models they gave me and I felt very guilty as I had only taken a tenner with me.Mum wanted them just to a good home and wanted nothing for them. End result she said she would put the cash to a charity of her choice.There was so much stuff and models and unused kitsI could barely close the back of the car. Oh yes there was a boat amongst them. That lives in the house on it's display stand. it is a customs launch made from a plastic kit by all appearances nicely finished in Royal blue and white. Small brushed motor with two 7.4 Nimh batteries packs.One in either bilge for balance. in contrast all the electrics in this "Futaba,"3 Channel, were clean and all worked perfectly. A bit odd but the Tx was kept in it's box so maybe that made the difference? Sorry to hi-jack the thread but it was to illustrate the point about potential corrosion. Oops a pun😁 Apols mods😊

I'll try it, Haverlock. I'll try everything once.

I should be receiving the new receiver this week. Something else to try.

Martin

It's a long shot Haverlock, but it just might work! 👍

OK before you introduce the TX to a BIG hammer just an idea which will take only a few min to try. it is possible that since its not been used for quite a while the switches contacts may have become oxidised so remove the batteries and switch it on and off AGRESSIVLY several times then do the same with the bind switch. it will probably do no good but will cost only a little time.

Thanks, Kevin, but I'd considered that and made sure it was a fully charged Rx. pack (new) and Tx. is also new Duracells for maximum voltage.

Martin

Hi
Don't know wether you solved this yet. I recently tried to bond my Dx8 to a receiver and failed. Reason my receiver battery too low. When charged bound first time. Clearly rx power is critical
Regards
Kevin

using off the shelf components some one has built a model boat that is crossing the Atlantic.

https://www.fastcompany.com/3016592/a-student-built-autonomous-drone-boat-is-crossing-the-atlantic-right-now-and-you-can-track-i

Think about this the next time the bloody thing refuses to do what you want ( a common occurrence among modellers )

Amen to all that ha ha👍

to give you some idea have a look at this



They are using an older ( more primitive) version to autonomously control a glider to fly around 20 miles across water.

I KNEW it! 😁 A380 to Jo'berg here we come 😉

Nope they do not need a puter to set them up all of the functions of a taranis can be setup from its own front screen. However software updates etc. can be done via the dreadful machine. There is a set of software one can use to check your setups. if you want an example of REAL complexity have a look at the pixhawk flight controller. To just touch a couple of its functions it gives " fly by wire" and is capable of flying a rout using satnav.

"Withdraw, my lord; I'll help you to a horse."
😁😎

A horse, a horse, my Kingdom for a bloody nag that don't need binding to it's rider!

Norman, I think I get your point, thanks again. I could try it I suppose. Am currently a bit sticky after epoxying my Crash tender everywhere.

Marky, they are a remarkable bunch here, true enough.

PMD, I understood Spektrum was mended by Al's Hobbies, but they would charge me at least as much for just looking at it than I paid for it. Yes, Frysky do need a pootah to set up! God forfend. And who sets the pootah up? Bit like Lois and Superman..."Don't worry I got you..."Yeah? and who's got you?"

Cheers,
Martin

Aha! "Lend me your ears" 😲
So contrary to Marc Antony you 'came to praise Caesar, NOT to bury him' 👍😁 Cheers Doug 😎

Having followed this from the start i have learnt a whole new language and still wouldn't know one end of an RX from another if it fell from heaven onto my lap ,but I come to praise Caesar (a little bit of Shakespeare) the amount of time and effort trying to solve this problem is incredible. Gentlemen I take my hat off to you and await with baited breath for the solution .(could this be the reason all my boats so far are static). Cheers Marky

IFound out today via bmfa that horizon hobbies who looked after spectrum warranties and repairs are back in uk with darbrorc who are just outside stoke on Trent. Maybe they can get the tx tested and fixed?
Several years ago I had a couple of frysky tx and they needed to be set up on a pc don’t know if this is still the case?

Martin its only to prove that your tx is all working and it's just the switch that isn't working, if when you bridge the switch terminals and your tx goes into bind mode, assuming your receiver is ON and adjacent to you, both will bind together and you can remove your temp bridge but DONT turn your tx off until you've removed your bind plug from your receiver. Then you can turn everything off and on as much as you like because the binding process is complete.
Now if this works and I hope it does you will need to replace that switch otherwise you'll have to do this all again if for any reason you lose bind, which can happen from time to time, although most of my models have been bound for years and never lost bind tx to rx.
Norman