John, thanks, but that's what I did all along and no luck with either Rx.
Doug, I hope I will do better with the FlySky jobbie when it turns up. it's an FS-GT2B . Whatever all that means.
Haverlock, I used to go up to Shenfield Common and watch one guy do miracles with both his Orbit 10 channel full house stunt plane and his tiny bright orange single chaneller, with McGregor RC and a TeeDee 049 up front.
Norman, bear with me...if I bridge the contacts with a bit of wire, what happens at the point when they all tell you to let go of the toggle? it won't effectively, have been let go of, as the bit of wire will still be there. That, I'm afraid, is the limit of my electrical understanding!
As ever, thanks for your help everyone.


Martin

Good morning all, Martin I've just removed the back from my dx5e and as I thought the switch in question is just a dead simple on/off switch.
If it is indeed faulty it will not enable your tx to go into bind mode, so to eliminate it from the equation ( I've just done this with mine) and all was well.
Remove your six small Philip head screws to open your tx, you won't have to separate the two halves completely just enough to gain access to the offending switch.
Now you should see one brown wire and one red wire going to the switch, with a small piece of wire just breach the two together
making a temporary by pass to the switch then turn your tx to ON, at this point all your lights (one red and four green) hopefully will illuminate and the buzer will be a different tone (or as Brasil would say " listen you stupid people it's one decibel higher ".
Hopefully this will work and you are in business all you need to do is replace the switch because you've proved it's faulty (not Basil).
Fingers X Martin.
Norman.

Martin; You'll get on much better with the FlySky, which one is it by the way?
All the Jetis I saw on their site are 24 ch these days, about 1500 to 1995 (🤔) quid 😲 Reckon you could use one to fly an A380 to Jo'berg 😁
Haverlock: I warned you that Martin is a Luddite 😉
Ciao, Doug 😎

Well to each his own and I cannot argue with your position!

As to aerobatics with a single channel escapement the only thing I ever managed ( other than a LOT of crashes ) was a loop you hold on rudder until you have a spiral dive then allow it to centre the speed plus the stable nature of the airframe meant it zoomed and went over the top. Ahh the happy days of ether fuel castor oil and winding he rubber band for the escapement. Yes I am that old! With " quick blip" and if you could afford a throttle equipped motor it was possible to add a sequential throttle full- mid-low-mid-full if you were seriously keen you could use an elmic compact and have kick up elevator as well. All of this on a single button.

Ok. Spectrum binding. 1.put bind plug into pins marked battery ,bind. 2 plug battery into either throttle or elevator pins 3 ensure batteryplug is inserted with white or orange wire is nearest to main body of the reciever. Ensure tx is switched off.4 hold switch on top of tx in on position.5 switch on tx and wait approx 30 Seconds .if it is orange receiver it should now show a steady light. 6 remove bind plug..( Check batteries are installed correctly in tx.) it's surprising how many times.folks put them in wrongly..

Doug, I may well take you up on that, mate. I would really like to get it going.
Could you PM me your postal address?
The Jeti I first saw was the 14 channel and that was £845 for the TX and £70 something for the RX. but I was only interested in the Tx. I wanted to frame it and put it on my wall! Czechs are SO clever and the women are stunning. The new 18 channel is about £1400, but they aren't anywhere near the dearest, even if they are the best.

Haverlock, you can sing the Taranis praises all you like but anything that needs a PC to fiddle with it to get anywhere is the last thing I would pay good money for. I am a great deal more impressed by aesthetics in engineering, than complication. if I wanted to know what the batteries were doing I'd bring the boat in for a look. it would add some interest to what is essentially a rather tedious pursuit (which is why I have a preference, still theoretical, for sail). Believe me, I would never "get" the Taranis or anything like it, in a month of Sundays. I'm just not interested in all that techy stuff.


Norman, I'd appreciate any input if you fancy digging around in yours. I wouldn't know what to look at. I didn't when it was soft valves and 90Volt Ever-Ready batteries and I don't now. I might have had Radio Control Models and Electronics Magazine from No 1, but none of it made the slightest sense and my Dad, (who paid for the subscription) never had the time to read it. I couldn't tell you the difference twixt a Super-regen and a superhet, a tone or a reed set. My old chum still has a working ED reed 8 channel set, but when flying, he has to constantly retune something with a plastic screwdriver, WHILST FLYING!!!
And how did anyone ever do full aerobatics with single channel bang-bang escapement rudder onlies?

Cheers,
Martin

At the risk of sounding as though I work for the company the Taranis also has telemetry. One can monitor battery voltage in the model via the transmitter. There are a load of other options including variometer and airspeed.

https://www.t9hobbysport.com/rc-gear/frsky-smart-port-sensors

However on the downside I do have to say its not the simplest beast to master since its so flexible you have to set EVERYTHING up. From the get go you have to decide which function is on which stick and where it is in the sequence to the receiver. Then things get complicated.

Aaaah! Jeti Duplex, luvly stuf, if you want to fly a 1/10 A380 with full Fly By Wire Auto Pilot, Black Box engine and flight data Sensing Recording and Telemetry feedback!
But for a rudder and a sail winch!?😲
'A grand'? Only ones I've seen lately are 1 1/2 to 2 grand 🤔
Still, one has to have dreams 👍😉
Keep doin' the Pools! Ciao, Doug 😎

if your totally wedded to your orange receiver you could look at a taranis transmitter and an optional module. Once you get the method of the taranis system if works great and is flexable to the "nth" degree. Oh and the transmitter uses a " wall wart" to charge the internal battery.

So it's deffo' your tx that has a problem, I would be tempted, as you've nothing to lose (no guarantee now), to remove the back and take a look at your trainer switch, sounds like it's just that switch is possibly inoperative, try replacing it perhaps, I think it's simply an on off switch switching different circuits on your board.
I'll remove the back from my old dx5 tomorrow Martin and take a look inside.
Let you know in the morning Martin.
Norman

Evenin' Martin.
Don't smash it, although I can well understand the impulse!
Send it to me, you know where I am. I like a challenge😉
I'll refund you the postage.
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS: Martin, unfortunately there are some things that NEED use to keep them working!
In electronics this means particularly the electrolytic capacitors, those marked + and - on the leads. Of which there will be several in the TX. Just switching it on now and again prevents deterioration of these components. if left alone for years they can go 'soft' and prevent whole circuits from working. Fact of electronic life I'm afarid.

Haverlock, I did that, effectively with my printer, which after working well suddenly wasn't talked to by the computer, so I took it out and smashed it to pieces, after carefully removing the plate glass platten to glue wet'n'dry to. But I'd had use out of it. I smashed a leased printing system for old skool graphics at my last job, because the repair man was late. We were 2 floors up, he had to pick the bits up of the tarmac below, but we'd done a lot of prints with it. This apparent, over-rated pile of junk has never done owt, but beedlyboop and one light.

How I wish I could afford a grand for a Jeti Duplex, one of the most beautiful pieces of industrial design I have ever seen this side of a Coventry Climax cam cover.

Cheers,
Martin

Norman, I can take an 8 quid Rx. not working, but a brand new, unused Tx. for 50 quid with p&p, gone duff, annoys me. if I try Al's hobbies for a look they'll charge that just to open the damned box. That pisses me off even more! But what really gets my goat is that Phil Greeno where I bought it is no longer around and even if he was, so many slagged him, off I would never have got anywhere anyway. There's so little in these things you have to wonder how they can go wrong with NO use.

Cheers,
Martin

About now I would be considering introducing the TX to a lump hammer!! Mine has a 1Kg head and tends to have permanent effects on anything I hit with it! Follow that up with jumping up and down on the bits. There comes a point when no matter what the cause its just not worth the effort.

Accept defeat and regroup then take a different path. Find something second hand that you can see working or have a chance to test before you buy.

No Norman, I'm afraid not. Tx. off, trainer switch held forward and power switched on, but NO FLASHING LIGHTS! Except on the Rx., Orange or Spektrum which both flash ad nauseum . it ain't doin' wot it's sposed ter! One solid light on the right end of the row on the TX. while the Rxs. just keep on flickering.

10 feet away, in the garden near no metal or shields of any kind. Not sure how I can make this any clearer. if the TX. is supposed to flash, it AIN'T!

Cheers,
Martin

One more thing Martin, not sure it's been mentioned previously, your transmitter must be in the off position before you flick the trainer switch with your index finger top left of your transmitter.
So.........receiver on, (rapid flashing led in receiver)
Then with your index finger flick and hold you trainer switch on your transmitter then turn power on your transmitter, all lights on the front will flash and your receiver led should then go to solid.
Bind complete, remove bind plug from receiver off you go.
Norman.

Sorry Marin, that tx is undoubtably dsmX👌, so with that in mind I think your next step would be to.............count out aloud to three, then if your transmitter has still not bound with your receiver............beat the living daylights out of them both with a big stick😁.
Seriously Martin I can't understand why you've had no success, all the forgoing advice has been spot on and correct.
I did purchase an orange receiver recently off eBay that refused to bind, I simply returned it,at a cost of one pound postage and received a replacement the next day which worked fine.

Right, he says in a John Cleese accent, a la Fawlty Towers, here's the damned Tx. Box first, then the real thing, cropped only to save you from my fizzog and belly.
Please note....DSM X, splashed, as I said earlier, across the front of the label panel AND the box itself, no less, from which the Tx . has still only been drawn 4 times.

Martin

I've been using Spektrum now for 10 years, never a minuets problem, granted I only use the budget "orange" receivers on my boats but remember your transmitters protocol HAS to be dsmX and NOT just dsm2 otherwise you may experience binding problems.
I am using spektrum to fly my 1/4 scale piper J3 cub and its faultless but I always use matching spektrum receivers in planes, not because I don't trust the orange just because when you've got over £1000 worth of plane in the sky it's worth having the added security.
Martin are you sure your dx5s protocol is dsmX?.
Norman.

Hi tt, Spektrum is actually very well made good reliable kit.
Just check the specs and small print veeery carefully before you fork out the hard earned shekels! 👍

Wow with all that I don’t think I will be buying a spektrum?

Martin, I bought both the DX6 and the Orange RX/Flight Stabiliser (tip from pmdevlin for the Catalina👍) in the firm belief that both were dual format.
After the sad discovery yesterday I ransacked the Web for all manuals / guides I could find, no mention of DSMX anywhere for the Orange gizmo, and then the Spektrum small print for my DX6. 😡
Ho hum, what the Germans call 'Learning money' (Lerngeld).

There are other Orange RXs which specify both formats - but none with the stabiliser 😭 So now I'll try the Lemon (and hope that it isn't!)
That was the only reason I bought the damn thing in the first place. Got enough DSMX RXs from Spektrum, the AR610s. Bought a batch of six for a decent discount 😊
BTW: my AR610s run great on a 4.8V NiMh pack👍
No binding problems at all. I bound all 6 RXs in one go as soon as I got my stickies on them. 😉

Doug, the loaner was bound to the guy's DX5e in DSMX, but I will keep saying for pmdevlin's sake that both Orange Receiver and my Tx. says compatible with both protocols, but the Spektrum loaner wouldn't bind.
I bought a 6 volt Rx battery pack especially for this and it's giving just over 6Volts. I bought 4 new Duracells for the TX. (all said above), so all is well on the volts front. The Orange in fact is OK for 3.7-9.4 volts it says. I did all you suggest , but no flashing lights on TX and no end OR change to the frequency of, flashing lights on Rx, either of them.

Doug, isn't your stabiliser Orange Rx. also compatible with both?
When did orange go single protocol, I wonder.

Martin

post up a pic of the orange rx, lets see what version it is. EG, I have a DX8i which will work with both dsm2 and dsmx, I bought it for this very reason, so I can use both.

You keep saying that the tx needs to be found to be faulty or not, but as Doug says, if you don't have it in the correct format to match the receiver, its never going to work. Spektrum are reliable, so I doubt the tx is faulty


BInd plug in receiver
power source to receiver, orange light flashes quick (make sure its 6v, if you are using less it might not work, so think about this, I use a 4 aa pack to test things like this, last night doing exactly the same could not get a bind, the 4 aa's had dropped to 5.5v, change the batts, 6v all worked)
hold tile trainer switch, turn on tx at same time
keep hold of switch, wait a minute or so, light on rx goes steady.

TX neds to match the rx, dsm2 or dsmx

sorry if I'm repealing things, failing hat go to local rc boat, or plane club, and ask someone to second face what you are doing

Evenin' Martin, I give up!
If the loaner RX was DSMX and you hadn't inadvertently changed anything 'out of the box' then the TX is duff 🤔
If it's any consolation I now have a similar snag 😭
Just tried to bind my Orange RX/Flight Stabiliser (see pic above) to my Spektrum DX6 and it failed 😡
Researching on the Spektrum site I finally found in the small print (teeny weeny print) - "DSM2 not available in the EU" ---> Oh brown stuff!
Looked at the Lemon RX specs and they do a DSMX version, Orange don't --> Oh cobblers awls!! Anyone want a 6ch DSM2 RX with stabiliser ?? Going cheep cheep! C'est la vie 😲 Bon nuit mes amis, Doug 😎

Doug, it's just a DX5e with DSM and big red X on the extreme right of the label panel and the first pages go into why there is bugger all difference between DSM2 and DSMX, none of which makes any sense to me. I would assume, before you go changing from one to tother, you have to know the Tx is working first. I don't yet. And the Orange Rxs are reviewed all over youtube and another forum which says they are reliably DSM2 and DSMX compatible, almost like they expected trouble down the line. The guy who sent me the AR 610 Rx had bound it to his DX5e on DSMX before sending it to me and he sent it with a bind plug for me to, I assume, re-bind...but it didn't. All youtubes watched and forum posts read about binding Orange OR for that matter the newer Lemon Rxs. are exactly the same process as for a Spektrum Rx. I have only recently picked up on the Lemon being a flavour of the month, like the Orange was.
As for changing from one "DSM>>>" to another, I didn't follow it, but as I said I assume you have to know the Tx is working before you fiddle with stuff and I don't, for sure and I'd rather not fiddle and risk making it worse.

Martin

Hi Rooky, just noticed your reference to Lemon RXs, new 'Flavour of the Month' ? 😲 Must do some research, thanks for the tip 👍
Cheers, Doug 😎

OK, after further research via HorizonHobby and Spektrum found it! There are some later (?) versions of the DX5e with DSMX & DSM2. (Now discontinued!) Default is DSMX, which would probably account for your TX not binding to an Orange DSM2 RX. For that you may need to switch the TX to DSM2 mode as described on page 6 of the manual.
For the AR610 RX, check the printing on it if it says DSMX or DSM2 and set the TX mode accordingly!! Hope we are getting to the bottom of this slowly 😉 Now back to fibre-glassing my PTB 😲Good luck Martin.👍
Ciao, Doug 😎

Ar'ternoon Martin, Sorry but I don't see it!
Nowhere is DMX 'splashed' on the TX or mentioned in the manual or Quick Start Guide (downloaded from Spektrum last week)!? Only DSM2. Neither do I see Orange receivers mentioned anywhere!?
So what TX DO you have? is there a date or issue number in the back of your manual? As mentioned before, a photo or two would help enormously and save a host of Posts back and forth.
I hate unsolved mysteries 😲
Cheers, Doug 😎

Gents, my DX5e has DSMX splashed across the front and says on the first pages that it's compatible with DSM2 as well and the Orange Rx's are also compatible. FV, what's your comment on the flashing (or not) Tx lights? Mine don't. But the book says they're supposed to.

Cheers,
Martin

You're dead right FV 👍
Just checked the DX5e manual I downloaded and it's DSM2 ONLY.😲
My DX6 bonded to the AR610 easily cos both are DSMX.
So Martin: what you need are AR500 DSM2 RXs!!!
BUT: all Orange RXs I have seen so far are DSM2 compatible, usually printed on the top! So where does that get us??
Cheers, Doug😎

I used to sell Spektrum radios so I had my share of "I've tried everything and it won't bind". When binding one Spektrum product to another I found fitting new batteries all round and going through the correct bind sequence invariably sorted things out. As a Spektrum dealer I found myself otherwise occupied and unable to sort out problems with Orange receivers.

I suspect the early DX5E's were DSM2 - check to see if your DX5E has DSMX written on it somewhere - if not I don't think it will bind to a AR610 which (from memory) is DSMX only.

Hi peter, well there's maybe hope for my Tx. yet, although my instructions mention flashing lights on the Tx. which will stop flashing when binding is done, but what I can't claim is that the orange flashing lights in the Rxs ever stop rapid flashing, so binding doesn't occur. My Orange Rx. has an orange flashing light...yours is red?
Not working with the borrowed Spektrum Rx. is something that makes me think it's still the Tx. that's duff, but when the next £7 Rx, arrives, I'll try that!

Cheers,
Martin

Martin, Have just tried my DX5e, when switched on the 4th led or extreme right lights up, to show full battery charge, the other lights are to show battery condition, (no flashing lights).
I put a bind plug into socket one (batt/bind)orange receiver then a 4.8v battery into socket 2, receiver flashes slow red, switch tx on while holding lever forward on left rear of tx marked TRAINER, hold forward lever whilst switching on tx, wait till receiver stays solid colour. (Tx does not flash led.)
Switch off tx, unplug bind plug, put a servo into socket 1 marked THROT and battery into socket (battery/bind), switch on tx and wiggle the left stick horizontal if in mode one...should now be bound...hopefully for you Martin👍
Cheers Peter😁

That settles it, TX U/S - write a Requisition form (in triplicate) for a new one😉 Know what you mean about 'stuff'. Usually happens to me when I'm looking for something else, or just bought a replacement for something I thought was gone 😡 Happy sorting, if you don't show up for a day or two we'll send a search party😁 Ciao, Doug 😎

I did try it at one point with the bind plug out and with the servos in the yacht. No joy. And the flashing yellow light in the Rxs never stops flashing quickly. As for the TX., is it green? I have big trouble telling which colour they are. I thought they were yellow, but I was told they're green, must be very light bright ones, with red on the left. I assume these are in the office of a voltmeter. Anyway, no flashing, ever from the Tx. and no end to the flashing on the Rxs, both Orange and proven to work Spektrum AR 610. Pick the bullets outta that lot.

I'm sorting out the shed and finding stuff I didn't know was lost.
Cheers,
Martin

I agree Haverlock,
One definitely, potentially, possible final thought😁
Martin; Did you pull the bind plug out BEFORE you switched off the RX?
If the green light at the RH end of the LEDs on the TX was lit it MIGHT mean the RX was bound OK. Can happen so quick you may not have noticed! Esp. if the better half popped her head round the door to offer another cuppa at the vital moment😉
JFF stick a servo in the RX and try it. You may get a pleasant surprise. if you don't - nothing lost. if you do - have fun with it.
Good luck. Doug 😎
PS Re PTB; when I started I thought it would just be a Cosmetic job; clean up flat back and respray in Pacific green camouflage. Ho ho ho!
After I got started I found some curiosities in the construction and that the prop tubes and rudder stocks were misaligned. Never mind the ESC that burst into flames when I tried an 'as bought' test. So from then on it was clear that I had a full rebuild / reno. on my hands. "Hey ho hey ho it's off to work we go"!😉 All old paint now off, chine rails repaired / replaced and first coats of resin and tissue strengthening applied. Might get to the priming tomorrow or Sunday.

Haverlock,
I may not know much about electrics, but I do know about battery connections and as it happens, when I used rechargeables, one set fitted and one didn't. There was a tiny difference in diameters, enough to make one set fit and the other not. But the Duracells fitted a treat, but still no flashing from the lights, just a fixed one on the right hand end.
Believe me I'd love it to work, but it looks like it is duff.

Martin

Edited to say:- Nobody locally to ask as there are no model boat clubs within a sensible distance and the aircraft mob would now all be on 18 channel computers. Wouldn't know anything about a 7 year old non pootah!

Rather than repeating testing with RX(s) since 2 are doing the same a third probably will give same results. You need to find some one else with a TX if you can near enough that they can test yours. if your getting no lights on your TX another stupid question your sure you are putting the TX batteries in the correct way? Usually these pieces of kit are pretty reliable so a none worker makes me suspect " finger trouble" of one kind or another.

Haverlock, worth asking any question, even the "stupid" ones, but yes I did have the bind plug in the BIND hole and the power in a servo hole.
FV, no sweat, thanks for the interest, as to everyone else. The Spektrum Rx. that a member of another forum sent me to try didn't work either, so it looks like my Tx. is kaput. Sod's Law, innit, that the expensive bit is the duffer.

I'll give it one last chance with the other Rx. I have coming. if not, Al's Hobbies could be the answer if they don't want too much for a look at it.

Meanwhile, I'll be cleaning up and working on the Crash Tender.

Cheers,
Martin

No sweat FV 👍 Nobody's perfect 😉
Ciao, Doug 😎

ok I have to ask what may be a stupid question but ask it I shall. Are you putting the bind plug into the bind socket and power into a servo point? Because if you are not then it will NEVER bind!

"The switch used for binding on the DX5e is the Trainer switch! Not AUX." - I'm sure you are correct -sorry, that was from memory - I don't have a DX5 in front of me. I must have missed the reference in the thread to the Trainer switch being activated [i]while the transmitter is being turned on[/i] - my apologies for that.

Hi FV,
The switch used for binding on the DX5e is the Trainer switch! Not AUX.
Martin has reported extensively on the use of the Trainer switch!

Orange RXs are not just "cheap copies" of Spektrum.
In my experience they not only 'understand' Spektrum DSM2 but also AFHDS from Turnigy / FlySky etc etc.
Thus not 'cheap copies' but inexpensive, intelligent and versatile alternatives. So far I have not had one that doesn't work with either my Turnigy i6 or my Spektrum DX6. Greetings, Doug

There's probably a spring loaded toggle switch on the top left of the transmitter (might be marked 'Aux') - for binding this needs to be held up while turning on the transmitter - you might be doing this but no mention of it so far. The Orange receivers are cheap copies of the actual Spektrum receivers - some are cheaper than others and some work better and some don't work at all.

Doug,
if you have an Orange Rx. like mine, the bit where the plugs go is on the end face, so when you tip the battery wire on its side to plug in, the red wire is indeed uppermost, the black wire, bottommost. The Spektrum Rx. has the plug bit in the top face, so the uppermost, red lead goes through a right angle and goes downwards, but yes, in the middle. I made sure of the polarity first, but that bit you mentioned meant nothing to me, just symbols. I didn't want to trust them if I didn't understand them. The bind plug did indeed go in the slot marked bind. On the Orange Rx. it says BIND/BATT. I didn't plug any servos in as it isn't necessary and I didn't have them to hand without fishing them out of the restricted space in my Vanity model.
I have now watched so many you-tubes and read so many instructions that I can assure you I got the order right. Bind plug has never been out of the Orange Rx, except to assure myself of good contact. Battery pack plugged into AUX> socket, flashing yellow light, Tx. tother side of workshop, pull on trainer switch and turn on power. Beedlyboop noise, light on right hand side of array, but NO flashing on Tx. Hold trainer switch till will to live starts to ebb, give up.

The Spektrum you show, Doug is the same, albeit with different aerials, but the guy assures me it bound to his DX5e before he sent it to me for the trial. Your Orange however is very different from mine. Mine, as I said, has the pins poking out the end and the writing where your pins are. Yes, it has an S in the case, which I read meant signal, not that I knew what that was. it is a much smaller box than yours. Now you can see why I spoke of uppermost as my battery cable has to go on its side to plug into my Orange and in that position the red wire is indeed, uppermost. if you see the normal position for the Rx. to be flat on it's back with the pretty stuff on top.
So, what else can it be?
I will try what you suggested about the metal free garden, tomorrow and after that we will have to wait till the Fly Sky arrives, estimated E.T.A., early next month.

Your PTB looks very bare. Had you always intended to strip the tubes and rudders too?
Now, you have to paint the insides a nice neutral colour, like Spitfire Cockpit green, which is also Jaguar cockpit green, but Maseratis were silvery grey. Don't ask how I know...long story

Cheers,
Martin

Yeah, very seductive especially when she says (warning - throttle high)....😋.Have you seen the lemon receiver for DSM2 Doug, bought one of Ebay for £14 inc p&p, excellent, even comes with a satellite connected to the receiver, same way to bind.😁
Cheers Peter😉

Wow! a real 'DX Maniac' 😉😁
My DX6 is quite chatty too, nice seductive voice though 😁
Haven't tried it with the Orange RX yet, but it's DSM2 so it should work.
It bound to my Turnigy i6 (re-branded as REELY here in Germany by Conrad) no problem at all. Cheers, Doug 😎

Agree with you Doug, I have a DX4 for my drone, a DX 5e, DX6i and the latest DX6, which talks to you to tell you when you have bound the tx and rx, they all have the same plug system with a bind socket, even the orange receivers bind without a problem.
Martin, just follow Doug's instructions for binding your DX5e, I am sure you will have success👍

Good binding...😊 Peter

Sorry Capn, but 'uppermost still doesn't have any meaning 😲
Left, centre, right does! = Signal, Positive, Negative.
I also have some AR610s, see attached pic.
Printing shows clearly (if tiny🤔) ∏ ,+,- at the bottom of the printed label.
The bottom socket (as in my pic) is the Bind/Dat (Data) socket where the binding plug should go. The battery in any other socket.
The red wire from the battery should ALWAYS be on the MIDDLE pin, whether uppermost, downermost, on it's side or 'avin a kip in my Aunt Fanny's garden😉😁
The FlySky / Turnigy RXs use the same convention. They indicate the Signal pin with an S !! Surprise😉
I also have an Orange RX (with stabiliser for my PBY Catalina).
It follows the same convention, see pic 2.
The S for signal is moulded into the case at the bottom of the LH column of pins. Bottom socket is marked Batt/Bind for the Bind plug.
Would help speed things up if you posted a pic or two of what you have, and how you are connecting up!
Final thought! Are you switching on RX and TX in the right order?
RX first AFTER inserting the Bind plug, TX second AFTER holding the Trainer switch ON.
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS: just stripped out my PTB, incl shafts, tubes and rudder stocks, all I got left is wood an' glue 😲