They are self adhesive.

Peter
you can also use the old saying "the right hand does not know what the left is doing" - dangerous so left is RED! Also known as sinister of course..........

Bit of a problem if you are left handed or ambidextrous though.

TUBING
Hi Guys,
It's me again.
A good source of small lengths of metal tubes is from old radios.
I picked up some old radios from a boot sale for next to nothing and the telescopic aerial is ideal for making rudder tubes, prop shaft tubes, anchor hawser tubes push rod supports and so on.

Martin.

Another handy tip Martin, is how to remember Port & Starboard, with this little phrase...
'Is there a little more Red Port Wine Left in the bottle'
Which gives you RED PORT LEFT..simples😀

Peter😐

My son got me a variety of forceps which are very hand in so many ways.

Thanks Martin. Very helpful. I will check the Pilot Boat. I know the props are turning in the correct direction but not if they are on the correct side. I will keep the pictures for reference.
Peter.

Hi Guys,
This little tip is mainly for the new Guys building there first twin propeller model boats.
I have heard this question many times ("what direction dose the propellers rotate")
When you look at them from the back of the boat for forward motion the port (left) rotates anti-clockwise, and the starboard (right) rotates clockwise.

Martin.

Most of the paint on the Acapulco and Neptun are airbrushed acrylic. Easy clean up, and completely waterproof when cured.
I still use Tamiya spray Lacquer from time to time too.

I too have been model making for many years and I always look for the easiest ways to do things.
Also I am a great believer in trying to encourage the art of modelling to the younger generation so if by posting my little tips it helps them then I am happy.
Sometimes it is the simplest of things that really helps.
New to the hobby or an experienced model maker will benefit from the skills and tips from others.

Martin.

Sorry I didn't share!! but I've been doing this for some time. great idea. I must think more of my fellow modelers re good ideas

Great minds Martin 👍
I just got one from the GF which I intend to use the exact same way 😉
Cheers, Doug
PS use the spare / 'family' brush sets for various grades of abrasive 👍

Brilliant tip Martin - just don't keep it in the bathroom cupboard ! Just the thing for a spare one that has been lying around for years.

Hi Guys,
SMALL SANDER.
For those small delicate bits that need sanding I use a cheap electric toothbrush.
just cut off the bristles with a sharp scalpel then glue on a small piece of sand paper.
When you need to change the sand paper just slice it off and glue on another piece.

Martin.

Used to know what 'memory' foam is.
But I forgot 😁😂🤣

I use wedges cut from hoarded packing foam.😉
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Guys,
How many times have you wanted to work on your models tilted at an angle.
When it is in it stand you have to wedge it to the required angle and prop it up so that I don't move.
Well I use a piece of thick memory foam, place your model on it at the angle that you want then gently press it into the foam, hold it there for a short time and that's it.
It stays there.

Martin.

Absoeversolutely Peter👍
My credo is 'There are not just paints out there but paint systems. NEVER mix systems.'
I rarely use enamel these days except on smaller Plastic Magic ships.
Cheers, Doug 😎

As you say Doug, acrylics can be thinned with water,
but you must remember....enamel over acrylic 👍 OK,
but acrylic over enamel....NoNo.👎

cheers Peter😐

Excellent I will try it later.
Thanks.
Martin.

Hi Martin,
Acrylics!
I had the same reservations as you, until I tried it!
And discovered that when completely cured they are just as waterproof as enamels.
On the 'belt and braces principle' you can always give a finishing blast of clear gloss or matt / semi-matt. Personally I think that semi-matt (silk) best represents the finish on all ships I've been on. High gloss of course for all the pleasure boats and plutocratic mega yachts 😉
Cheers, Doug 😎

Good morning Doug,
I have always steered away from using acrylic paint on my models as in my head I keep thinking that it will wash off.

Martin.

'white spirit'
Heartily agree Martin 👍 I buy it in cheap 1 litre cans.
As a precaution whenever I have a new make of paint I test a few drops with the white spirit, just in case it turns into 'The Horrible Blob Jelly Monster' 😮

Water based acrylics are an even cheaper alternative to mix 😉
More difficult to remove when it's dry though!!
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Guys,
I don't know if this is widely known but this little tip is for paint.
How many guys that use enamel paint also purchase enamel thinners.
I have found that is an expensive way of thinning your enamel paint.
So I just use ordinary white spirit is perfect for the job, I use it in my airbrush and have sprayed many models with it.(gloss or mat paint)
And also use it for cleaning up after.
Very cheap and the one chemical for many porpoises.

Martin.

Hi Martin,

Great hint, Keep them coming!💡

Cheers, Ed

Good one Martin👍
SELF GRIP TWEEZERS
Also; you can make fine tweezers 'self-gripping' by slipping a piece of flexible silicon tube over the points 😊
Doug 😎

Hi Guys,
How many times have you had that small piece that you have been working on ping out of your sharp nose pliers or tweezers never to be seen again?
Well my solution is to use a couple of pieces of rubber insulation from electrical wire or some heat shrink tubing.
Just pop it over the tips of said tools, this will give a little more grip with out damaging the piece and stops it from pinging out.

Martin.

Hi
Going on Martin's tip for using bulldog clips as clamps, the next time your partner goes to M/S to get some new trousers see if they can get you some more trousers hangers, as the clips that are used to hold the trousers make good clamps,👍

Hi,
You have some very fine models there.
Well done.
I love your r.c ducks LOL!!

Martin.

Well said matey, carefully looking after those precious models so that you can enjoy for years to come.👍😀😎
Cheers Colin.

Mate, too many years in salt water . Tips? the secret? I really paint all my wood models so thoroughly and make internal wood coamings inside of the superstructures and actually hose down first thing at home with a soft hose stream to wash off salt. Most of my hulls and decks when the model is finished have been "painted" local hardware paint or sprayed with fibreglass resin thinned down about 50% or so on paint varnished wood ( even polyurethane 50% thinned ) of which BOTH are so clear and some models over 30/35 ( i/c and steam ) years are still impervious to attack and a bit bullet proof and every so often I do a clean down with say a household (any brand will do) kitchen bench type of cleaner, supermarket spray mist cleaner , you know the ones that smell so fresh and clean that they kill ONLY 99% of all germs and baddies ( what a crock ) and I then take the model/ bits onto the grass still smelling so fresh (UGH) and gently wash away the germs and baddies and just sun dry for a bit and put back in the shed for another day. I am so petty, I also save up the dry cleaning flimsy plastic sheets and cut the sides so I have a long sheet to drape over each model till the next run the sawdust of other shed jobs does NOT get on the model. I fold the sheets off with the dust side to the inner fold , hoping I do not forget which side is which ( I think I am getting OLDER )before I check out the model (radio test, fuel ok , just lightly SINGER oil carburettor shaft , rudder post prop shaft bits , check the glow plug works, inline fuel filter is clean , AND AND leave my engine settings alone year after year AND try to exactly mix the same fuel blend over and over by careful measure but you can slop a tad more oil in as Oil is CHEAPER than steel , if a bit rich then one click on the needle yet my mates rib me as I leave it ALONE ). I always check, ALWAYS on the day BEFORE next days run and avoid things that go wrong at the pond side , ( you know the guy who glitches and bleats it was going so well last time ) as I am in OPEN waters I do not chance fails. Regards and good boating Lyle from Oz.

Beautiful model with exquisite details!! You must be very cautious moving it with all that rigging, eh?

Rides nicely in the water. Tell us what you must do to clean your model after sailing it in salt water?

Hi,
Very nice model.
Maybe You should place this in your Harbour .

Martin.

Looks really good on the water, scale waves as well. The detail is extremely good, that's the sort of look I hope to get on my tug Valiant, but she's a bit smaller at 41 inches. Thanks for the tip on the brush.
Cheers Colin. 👍

I am not too sure the brooms actually come out in the multitude of photos just so much clutter on my Cervia, I have to run her in the salt water channel to the sea lake we live against . Wind and swell and chop , no luxury fresh water ponds in the colony of Australia.Lyle from Oz.

Hi Lyle,
Nice any photos?

Martin.

Hello All from the colony of Oz. For my Cervia 56inch steam tug , I needed a push broom or two of the type used to push ahead typically used in roadworks. I saved up my old toothbrushes and you the stem. A bit of corner rounding followed by a wooden bamboo stick pushed into a drilled hole at the plastic bed which holds the bristles at a suitable ANGLE . Then glued with zap and a bit of crappy pain t to the handle and the brush head and a bit of crud to the bristles. It was as good as my heavy duty broom /brush that I use when sweeping up the concrete paths after savage gardening by by spouse who tolerates and still says, "I remember you were only going to have one boat , the Aerobats Crash Boat I built some 30 plus years ago and has its third I/C motor after wearing the others out! Lyle.

Hi Ken,
Sometimes it is the most simplest of things that make life easier.
I cannot remember who said this "necessity is the mother of invention".

Martin.

Hi Red,
I like it,
Many years ago I made a small mallet from some branches of an old apple tree and some file handles.
It is surprising what you can make with just a little imagination.
Nice to see hints and tips coming from other members thanks.

Martin.

Being a real hoarder as my better half says - I hung on to the little chromed hammers supplied with the presentation boxes of toffees . A bit of judicious filing / grinding produced a nice little pin hammer. Useful with skinny pins with steel head when working with balsa or liteply . For heavier work took one of those kiddy sized hammers with the chrome plated shafts/rubber handles , cut head off with a hacksaw. Then with some work with a punch and vice removed the sawn off piece from the head , worked out how long the shaft should be to suit myself and cut some more off . Replaced the head using a liitle epoxy (its a force fit anyway) and now have a very useful short hammer both for around the house and model making. (have 2 currently - one for each toolbox)

You could also use it for the small tins of paint.

If there's a way of knocking something over, you can be sure I will discover it, so this tip will probably
save me much time and money in the future.😀

GLUE LOSS PREVENTER
Hi Guys,
How many times have you accidentally knocked over the pot of glue?
I have many times.
So this is a very simple inexpensive tip.
Cut a piece of cardboard drawer around the pot then cut a X across the middle, place over the pot and press down you now have a much larger bass making it more difficult to knock over.

Martin.

Thank you for the compliment but I am not a guru as I am slowly running out of ideas.
I may have one or two later when I remember them.
There must be lots of little hints,tips,and tricks out there that would really help us model makers.
I will just have to scratch my head a think of some.

Martin.

Another winner from Martin our very own "hints and tips" guru. Keep up the good work Martin
you are proving to be a veritable mine of information. Maybe you might think of writing a book.
I would buy the first copy.⛵

PLANK CLAMP.
Hi Guys,
This little tip is mainly for the plank on frame builders but it can be used for other things.
Made using Bulldog clips and some strong wire.(or a paper clip)
Bend the wire to fit in the Bulldog clip(as in photos) fit inside the clip making sure that you have a small loop at one end then bend the other end just to stop it falling out.
To use it just butt it up tightly to the plank and clip it to the bulkhead, it will then hold the plank firmly in place so that you can mark up for trimming or pinning.
I have also used this to hold plastic card in place.

We have over 5,000 members here on this site so there must be lots of little hints and tips that could be shared so please feel free to add them to this thread.

Martin.

Martin - that's a really smart idea - have a few of those obtained from a camping shop (intended for hikers and other outdoor types) for another forgotten purpose - but this is a much better use for them. Might be an idea to use flat wide shoelaces - so as not to crush balsa etc when holding parts together

Brilliant idea Martin, just going to check now if the wife has one on her coat!😀

Peter😉

Super idea and so simple.
Cheers Colin.

TEMPORARY CLAMP
Hi Guys,
Another little tip.
I use a spring toggle (from an old coat) and a piece of round elastic as a temporary clamp.
Just push the button and pull the elastic and it holds things together (depending on the situation)
Then to remove push the button and the elastic just pings lose.
The photo with the yogurt pots is just for demonstration.

Martin.

If you get one Pete,
TEACH HIM TO IRON SHIRTS!!!!!!! 🤔🐶

Just take the ironing board and tell the wife that you have to repair it as it fell over and broke.