Hints and Tips.
Hints and Tips.
I use mine the same way.
Also for photographing stuff I want to post, without all the bench clutter in the immediate background 😉
Also for sorting boxes of new 'Stuff' that has just arrived 😊
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS: "I worked it out, if the wife notices that the ironing board is missing just blame the dog!"
I don't think I want to meet your dog!!!
Also for photographing stuff I want to post, without all the bench clutter in the immediate background 😉
Also for sorting boxes of new 'Stuff' that has just arrived 😊
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS: "I worked it out, if the wife notices that the ironing board is missing just blame the dog!"
I don't think I want to meet your dog!!!
Young at heart 😉 Slightly older in other places.😊 Cheers Doug
Hints and Tips.
Hi Guys,
I don't know if you class this as a Hint or a Tip?
But due to the lack of bench space in my little workshop I got fed up having to keep moving my boats just to use the bench.
So I purchased an old ironing board from the boot sale for £1.00 and stripped the covers of .
I now have a bench to keep my boat on and also you can adjust the height to suit when working on it, And it folds away when not in use. leaving me with my original bench to do other things on.
Martin.
I don't know if you class this as a Hint or a Tip?
But due to the lack of bench space in my little workshop I got fed up having to keep moving my boats just to use the bench.
So I purchased an old ironing board from the boot sale for £1.00 and stripped the covers of .
I now have a bench to keep my boat on and also you can adjust the height to suit when working on it, And it folds away when not in use. leaving me with my original bench to do other things on.
Martin.
If it looks right it probably is.
Hints and Tips.
CLEAN FINISH ON PLASTIC
Hi Guys
Another little tip this is mainly for the beginner to plastic kit model making.
After sanding holes or small parts it tends to leave small wispy bits
I have found that if you use a small paint brush and liquid plastic glue and brush over the area it cleans it up and leaves a nice Finnish.
As you may of gathered I also tinkering with plastic kits.
I also use this when working with plastic card.
The photos are just for demonstration,But you can see the results on the railings on my Gato.
Martin.
Hi Guys
Another little tip this is mainly for the beginner to plastic kit model making.
After sanding holes or small parts it tends to leave small wispy bits
I have found that if you use a small paint brush and liquid plastic glue and brush over the area it cleans it up and leaves a nice Finnish.
As you may of gathered I also tinkering with plastic kits.
I also use this when working with plastic card.
The photos are just for demonstration,But you can see the results on the railings on my Gato.
Martin.
If it looks right it probably is.
Hints and Tips.
FILLING AND GLUING TIP
Hi Guys,
I picked this tip up many years ago and used it with great success.
This is mainly for the beginner or less experienced Model maker.
First place a strip of masking tape about 1mm ether side of the joint and press down.
Using a flat blade apply the plastic filler/glue with light pressure.
Then remove the masking tape before the filler/glue dries.
Allow time for the filler/glue to dry hard and then Sand down with fine sand paper to the required finish.
You may have to repeat this a second time as the filler/glue sometimes tends to shrink.
I do not know if this tip will work if you use baking soda and ca glue, you may have difficulty removing the masking tape.
You can see in the photos that I even used this method on the bilge keels and the propellers shaft area of my Gato submarine.
This method saves a lot of time when sanding down.
I hope this helps.
Martin.
Hi Guys,
I picked this tip up many years ago and used it with great success.
This is mainly for the beginner or less experienced Model maker.
First place a strip of masking tape about 1mm ether side of the joint and press down.
Using a flat blade apply the plastic filler/glue with light pressure.
Then remove the masking tape before the filler/glue dries.
Allow time for the filler/glue to dry hard and then Sand down with fine sand paper to the required finish.
You may have to repeat this a second time as the filler/glue sometimes tends to shrink.
I do not know if this tip will work if you use baking soda and ca glue, you may have difficulty removing the masking tape.
You can see in the photos that I even used this method on the bilge keels and the propellers shaft area of my Gato submarine.
This method saves a lot of time when sanding down.
I hope this helps.
Martin.
If it looks right it probably is.
Hints and Tips.
Hi Guys,
If you do not own a pillar drill or you have to drill a hole straight and level
My little tip is to clamp some metal blocks or wood blocks together (over lap them) then line up the drill bit were you need to drill, place the blocks up against the drill bit and use the corner as the guide.you may wish that you had three hands a time but it I possible. It may not be perfect but it is not far off.
Photos are just for demonstration.
Martin.
If you do not own a pillar drill or you have to drill a hole straight and level
My little tip is to clamp some metal blocks or wood blocks together (over lap them) then line up the drill bit were you need to drill, place the blocks up against the drill bit and use the corner as the guide.you may wish that you had three hands a time but it I possible. It may not be perfect but it is not far off.
Photos are just for demonstration.
Martin.
If it looks right it probably is.
Hints and Tips.
DECK FITTINGS
Good one(s) DG👍
I used a similar idea for the bollards on HMS Hotspur, made from short bits of alu tube with 2mm dome head screws through them. They also serve to hold the decks down. 2mm washer for the base. Visible on the extreme left of the pic.
Plywood decks BTW were made from the recycled back of an old bureau 😊
Depthcharge throwers were made to John Lambert (RIP) plans from scraps of 0.3mm brass, 1mm copper wire and 5 and 8mm wood dowels. Very fiddly measuring the plans, scaling up and double triple checking the marking up of the thin brass bits. (Never mind the snipping!) But worth it I think.
Doug 😎
Good one(s) DG👍
I used a similar idea for the bollards on HMS Hotspur, made from short bits of alu tube with 2mm dome head screws through them. They also serve to hold the decks down. 2mm washer for the base. Visible on the extreme left of the pic.
Plywood decks BTW were made from the recycled back of an old bureau 😊
Depthcharge throwers were made to John Lambert (RIP) plans from scraps of 0.3mm brass, 1mm copper wire and 5 and 8mm wood dowels. Very fiddly measuring the plans, scaling up and double triple checking the marking up of the thin brass bits. (Never mind the snipping!) But worth it I think.
Doug 😎
Young at heart 😉 Slightly older in other places.😊 Cheers Doug
Hints and Tips.
Fittings make a boat model, but it can sometimes be difficult to get them at the right scale. And if you can, some can be very expensive, especially if you need lots of them.
Many can, however, be easily made out of household items and waste, especially if you are just going for 'eyeball scale' - that it, what looks fine on a boat on a pond at 6ft or so.
Here are a couple of simple examples - bollards and mushroom vents. A pair of nails pushed through brass tubes and soldered onto a brass sheet base will look indistinguishable from a commercial bollard, while the dimples on a pill container can be cut off carefully and mounted on a bit of dowel to make a mushroom vent. Use different sized nails/pills to match the size that you want...
Many can, however, be easily made out of household items and waste, especially if you are just going for 'eyeball scale' - that it, what looks fine on a boat on a pond at 6ft or so.
Here are a couple of simple examples - bollards and mushroom vents. A pair of nails pushed through brass tubes and soldered onto a brass sheet base will look indistinguishable from a commercial bollard, while the dimples on a pill container can be cut off carefully and mounted on a bit of dowel to make a mushroom vent. Use different sized nails/pills to match the size that you want...
Hints and Tips.
No pics, but when I do lettering on a model, I use sticky backed characters. I’ll line everything up on wax paper, once it’s to my liking I take a thin strip of masking tape and place over the lettering. This way I can peel the letters off the wax paper (they won’t stick to it) and place the finished lettering on the model. Once it’s burnished down, you can slowly peel the masking tape off, and the lettering stays in place.
Hints and Tips.
Similar to the classic use of clingfilm over paper that the aero boys use when they build a fuselage or wing directly onto the plan.
You can often use this technique when building detachable superstructure directly onto the place where it attaches to the hull, as in the image below...
You can often use this technique when building detachable superstructure directly onto the place where it attaches to the hull, as in the image below...
Hints and Tips.
Hi Guys,
After having discussions with long term standing members of this site l have decided to start this hints and tips section.
The idea behind this is to help fellow model makers, And to give the new Guys to this hobby a hand with learning new skills and techniques.
So please feel free to add your knowledge to it.As I am sure that it will benefit many of us.
Martin.
Good idea Martin👍, a substitute for the dearly departed forum categories!
Pitch in lads 😊
Cheers, Doug
BTW; I'm more of a 'sitting' member, typing is difficult while standing 😂🤣
Hi Guys,
I will kick this off with the baking sheet tip.
I use is grease proof paper(baking sheet) to help when gluing plastic card.
After I have marked out the joints on the paper I then put a small dab of plastic glue on the line and place the first part, after a short time the glue has set I then do the same again with the second part then glue the two parts together.
When your assembly is completed you just gently pull the grease proof paper off, then clean the remaining bits of glue of with a scalpel.
Martin.
After having discussions with long term standing members of this site l have decided to start this hints and tips section.
The idea behind this is to help fellow model makers, And to give the new Guys to this hobby a hand with learning new skills and techniques.
So please feel free to add your knowledge to it.As I am sure that it will benefit many of us.
Martin.
Good idea Martin👍, a substitute for the dearly departed forum categories!
Pitch in lads 😊
Cheers, Doug
BTW; I'm more of a 'sitting' member, typing is difficult while standing 😂🤣
Hi Guys,
I will kick this off with the baking sheet tip.
I use is grease proof paper(baking sheet) to help when gluing plastic card.
After I have marked out the joints on the paper I then put a small dab of plastic glue on the line and place the first part, after a short time the glue has set I then do the same again with the second part then glue the two parts together.
When your assembly is completed you just gently pull the grease proof paper off, then clean the remaining bits of glue of with a scalpel.
Martin.
If it looks right it probably is.
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