I use Testors plastic model cement on my styrene kits. The Orange tube not the Blue.

Good morning Nerys , I use liquid poly glue or PLASTIC WELD. By E.M.A.
Hope that is helpful, cheers Colin.

Hi Nerys.

The glue i use is humbrol liquid poly.
It is a thin liquid that is really good as you can apply it to one side then quickly join the two parts together.
Or you can put the two parts together and use capillary action to glue them.
I have used it for many years without any problems.
Here is a link.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HUMBROL-MODEL-GLUE-LIQUID-POLY-28ml-BOTTLE-WITH-BRUSH-NEW/224218669314?epid=2254374856&hash=item3434796102:g:NwgAAOSwk9xenY8t

Martin555.

Help please. I am using Revell Contacta adhesive to stick the plastic bits together, but it's not working all that well. Am I using the right stuff?

Cheers, Nerys

Thank you, Martin and Rick for saying nice things about me, but when you read my comments on the LST kit please bear in mind that as far as plastic kits are concerned, I am a novice. I've only built one before and in that I ended up substituting wood where the plastic work became difficult. The kit is to my mind very poor quality in many ways , I don't think trying to interpret his instructions and find missing pieces is a reflection on me but as I am not versed in building with plastics, I don't think I am doing as good a job as if I was. I'm a builder of traditional wooden boats, Thames Barges etc, that's where I am happiest.

Cheers, Nerys

Sounds as if Martin has a good idea Nerys.You being an excellent builder has helped you to fix and make items for this boat,Better plans and instructions would not of made that necessary.
From the posts you have given I believe a novice builder would have been lost as how to proceed with the build and may just give up.
I believe Deans needs to be made aware of this build.
Rick

Hi Nerys,
That kit sounds like a right nightmare.

I do hope you send Deans a very strongly worded letter/email explaining all the problems and how very disappointed you are.
You pay a lot of money for a kit you at least expect something decent.

Martin555.

Eventually, I guessed at what was wanted for the flying bridge and cut bits from waste. Whether it is anything like
what was intended, I can only guess because the plans are not exactly clear. Anyway all the basic parts of the after superstructure are now in place and I've been imagining my father going down from the bridge to his day cabin for a break and a cuppa.

Cheers, Nerys

Sounds like your build is very frustrating Nerys, but I'm sure you will get there in the end, you are one determined lady.
Keep going lass, stay safe and well, cheers Colin.

I've been searching for the component pieces of the bridge off and on for getting on two hours with no success. I can find the base for it that stands on top of the captain's day cabin, but nothing else that can bear any resemblance to the pictures. I can feel a lump of wood coming towards me which will go into use if nothing else offers it's services. The lower part of the bridge assembly is in progress of construction but is a nightmare of badly fitting bits of plastic that do not want to stick together. Frustration rules the day! I wish I'd listened when that little voice inside me kept saying, 'if God had meant us to have plastic boats .............'

Nerys

Pete, thank you very much, I might follow up on those as I will want some vehicles to populate the upper deck and the scale of those isn't far out.

Cheers, Nerys

Hi Nerys, was just browsing the net, and on Ebay was a listing that might suite your LST, and a good price at the moment, link below, regarding your problems with the kit, if you have the time, give Deans a call, there is a guy there (sorry don't know his name, he's the one that usually answers the phone) but he is very helpful on the builds, have spoke with him many times, might be worth it if you get to a tricky bit.😊

Cheers, Pete

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Roco-minitanks-US-WWII-M-34-Cargo-Trucks-M-10-Wolverine-1-87/143916183824?hash=item218212b110:g:QTUAAO

Hi Nerys It's a shame Deans is not able to upgrade there instructions.From what I read they build all the boats first to make sure of the build.
In my mind it is their loss for not looking at better instructions.
Rick

Hi Rick,
I wouldn't advise anyone on whether or not to buy a Dean's kit, I'll just say, I wouldn't and from what I'vevread on here, a lot of people agree.

Cheers, Nerys

Nerys the experience you are having with this Deans kit will help others.
This is not your first build and if you find it difficult to use the instruction what would a novice be able to do.
Your posts will be a good ya or nay for us to determine if we would buy a Deans kit.
Rick

Oh Noblewoman, Nerys, thankfully you are feeling better. Looking forward to some photos of the progress.

Not a happy day, we could make a film of it and call it 'The search for the missing cabin sides'. As I find in nigh on impossible to read the numbers of the plastic bits, I spent ages looking for the various bits making up the sides of the main deckhouse. Unfortunately they were not all together,, even to being on different plastic sheets. There should have been a plastic coaming around the deck aperture for this, but that completely eluded me and in the end I made it out of wood, which was doubtless far easier and more satisfactory than what it should have been. I find the CD is slightly more use than the paper instructions, but it still doesn't tell you where to find the bits. The paper instructions are very indistinct. Anyway, we now have a composite main deckhouse, deckless for the moment.

Cheers, Nerys

A little more progress, yesterday was a dead loss as I felt rotten after the previous night's dialysis. However, today, apart from going out to pick up timber for the galley of the sausage wagon, I have made and fitted a battery box and am currently screwing down the deck. I say currently as I'm having a rest from it by having a few minutes on the computer. I'm hoping I can hold on long enough tonight to have the hull ready to have a rubbing strake (wood) put around the hull at deck level to hide up the edges of the deck on my next session.

Cheers, Nerys

Hi Bill,

Yes, I saw that programme, very interesting but it was about Landing CRAFT Tanks, not LSTs. However it is good to know that at least we will have an LCT in preservation, if nothing else. They were certainly making a nice job of the restoration considering she was sunk for years. LCTs were open deck and about 180ft long and if I remember correctly carried only 9 tanks, whereas the LST was 328 feet long and carried 30 tanks with all their equipment and accomodation for their army crews. Vehicles were carried on a lower deck with a bow ramp and opening doors as well as the upper, open deck with lift access to the lower deck. They were also designed to carry an LCT on deck, as my father did on his first trip from New York to Gibraltar, they had to build a wooden platform over the bridge in order to see over the LCT's deckhouse.

Cheers, Nerys

Morning Nerys.
Your projects are looking good and as has been discussed previously it is such a shame re the quality of your LST Kit from Deans.
If it is of any help to you I watched a really informative programme on the Smithsonian channel last evening on the history,sinking,raising and restoration of LCT 7074 from the Normandy landings.
There was also a lot of footage of LST’s of various types in it as well.
Not sure if this is something you may have seen or would be able to watch on catch up TV if you have it.
Good luck with your build,keep up the good work.
Regards Bill

A little progress on both boats. Very importantly, Alice sorted out the electrics in both boats. Whilst I have made the forehatch for the barge as well as the sidedecks and coamings for the main hatch.

On the other project, an inverter that Alice had ordered, arrived and she was able to reassure herself that it would start up the fridge freezer which we intend fitting in the camper.

Cheers, Nerys

Thanks everyone for all the nice things you have said about both my projects. The support for the shafts had not been forgotten, there are still a few bits and pieces to do to the 'engine room' before putting lids, temporary or otherwise in place.
As a further matter of interest, work progresses slowly on the mobile sausage roll factory. There was, and still is, a lot of work to do on the electrics, all sorts of odds and ends of wires to sort out and try to decide if they do anything useful. Woodwork is coming along nicely, the T&G deck head looks good. The two bunks are comfortable but may have to be lowered slightly and we have had a good discussion on the rest of the layout, galley, computer , chart table etc. Even went for a short ride today, over the snow capped mountain and back.

Cheers, Nerys

Cash, I'm not sure, I'm hoping to be able to change batteries through the hole in the deck. The bridge structure fits over that particular aperture and I think it will be possible, not easy, just possible. I doubt if anything in the way of an alteration or repair would be possible. But until I know otherwise, I'm just screwing the decks down.

Cheers, Nerys

Nerys, thank you for the photos,both boats are looking good. Are you going to have to unfasten the deck on the LST to change batteries, or are you going to charge them in place? I know that personally, I tend to think myself into a corner and have to build my way out, hence my question. From what you and Alice have been thru, plus the dialysis, I think you’re doing a grand job. 👍
Cash

Nerys nice progress.I know you are right in screwing down the back sections there is nothing worse than having to break out a section to get at a repair.
Looking forewords to more pictures and work.
Rick

Great to see you back in the swing Nerys, looking good so far, agree with Doug definitely need those shaft tubes bracing.
Cheers Colin.

Nice bit of argy-bargy there Nerys 👍
She's gonna look the bee's knees when all fettled up and painted😊

I agree with Martin on the LST shafts.
You definitely need supports at the inboard end of the toobs to stop them whipping about and putting excessive load on the bearings and couplings. Or possibly even cracking the glue around the hull exits!😮
A half bulkhead would do the job nicely, and add some extra hull stiffening to boot😉
Very glad to see you back on the slipway😊
All the best, Doug 😎

Hi Nerys,
It is great to see some progress photos.
Both models are coming along nicely.
On the LST will you be putting some more supports closer to the motors on the prop shaft tubes.?

Martin555.

Coming along well there Nerys. I like the look of the barge. Looking forward to seeing the end result.

JB

Some photos to show progress on both the barge and the LST. The two photos of the barge show either end. As you can see, she has a wheelhouse because she is an auxiliary barge. She will have the normal rig of a staysail barge, foresail, topsail and mainsail, but no mizzen, I could say it will be mizzen The photo of the LST shows the innards so far. Alice is going to fit the battery, ESC and receiver etc before I add the deck. As I've said elsewhere, I am not happy with the size of the apertures in the deck to be able to work on the 'innards' so am only glueing the forward section down the rest will be screwed.

Cheers, Nerys

Work on the decks was put off through a not very nice reaction to dialysis on Sunday, so it was quite late Monday night before I felt up to doing anything. The plastic deck in the kit was in three pieces, so I have done the same with the 3mm ply replacement. The fore deck I have stuck down, but I am very dubious about doing likewise to the after deck and mid section. That's where the hatches are to get to the mechanical/electrical innards and I do not think they are anywhere near big enough to be able to work on anything on the inside, and I even include changing a battery. Chief Engineer Alice agrees with me, so, I am screwing the decks down so that they can be relatively easily removed for access.

Cheers, Nerys

Thanks for those words of encouragement jb, whilst I didn't have to resort to the axe, I'm far too sophisticated for that, definitely measured by eye and chopped out with my faithful adze.

Cheers, Nerys

Yes Colin, it's a relatively simple job to cut a chunk off the rudders, I've measured up tonight and it only means cutting about 5mm off and all will be well. They are the standard brass ones that we see everywhere, so with just that amount off the bottom, steering should still be fine.
Also, with encouragement from Pete who has done likewise, I made up my mind to replace the plastic deck with 3mm ply, cut the bits out this evening, but they still need a few pieces of wood putting around the hatch recesses so that they can be removed if ever necessary. If my present health standard holds out, I'll get them finished Saturday and possibly fitted.
At the same time, the barge progresses, fore and after decks are now fitted. As she is an auxiliary barge, the wheelhouse is made but not fitted yet.
I'll see if I can do a couple of pictures tomorrow.

Cheers, Nerys

I can understand the problems you are having Nerys, with the plastic deck, with my Deans boats, If they have a steel deck, I make the deck from 3mm ply, then face it with 1mm plastic card, which gives a nice Finnish to paint on, and looks like steel.😊

Cheers, Pete

Rough is good Nerys, -your boat, and if it works, even better. Couldn't be rougher than the old scows, - measured by eye, cut with an axe, assembled with a sledgehammer, and still around 100yrs later😁. Adds character👍.

JB

Happy new year Nerys,
Could you trim the rudders to allow for flat beaches, or benches.
Cheers Colin.

Hi Nerys,
I knew you would sort it out.
As you say the way it is going maybe you should of built it out of wood.

Keep up the good work.

Martin555.

Hi Nerys,
I might be old fashioned but I believe that all decking should be ply as it stiffens the hull even on fibreglass hulls.

We have completely altered the steering set up on the LST. Fitted brass rudders, doing away with the plastic tubes as supplied and fitting brass ones. All well epoxied in and a wooden support taking the strain of any leverage by the servo linkage going all the way across the boat. Please don't ask for photos as the whole thing is somewhat rough and I don't want anyone to see what it's like. But I do know that it is very much stronger than as designed by Mr D. The only snag, and there's bound to be one, is that the rudders stick down a little below the bottom of the boat, so it will have to live on a stand even during building.
Haven't decided yet, but am contemplating replacing the plastic deck with 3mm ply as I think the plastic will be too flexible even with the few supports that are possible. OK, say it, you'll be building the whole thing in wood given half an excuse.

Cheers, Nerys

Re Doug's picture of LSTs on the beach in Normandy. I'm rather surprised to see that the nearest one has her stern anchor just dropped to the beach. I was under the impression that it was dropped quite a way out as the ship was coming into a beach, then used to kedge themselves off when the tide came back in or they were ready to sail. I remember my father telling me about one time his kedge didn't hold and as he was well and truly stuck had to get a destroyer to come and give him a pull off.

Nerys

Doug, Thanks for your advice. Even by looking at the pic of the real LSTs you can see what I mean about the rudder shafts being right on the turn of the bilge. Nice photo that, incidentally, haven't seen it before. At the moment, I'm planning on taking out the existing tubes and replacing, epoxying back in place then putting a wooden support , drilled to take the tubes near the top, right across the hull and well fastened in. I'm hoping this will reduce the amount of leverage that the connectors to the servo can exert. I like your idea of an epoxy box around them, but as you know, I'm happier working in wood. I have time to think about it as I am waiting for the brass tube to come. There are no fillets built in to protect the props, but there are two skeletal like things which I think are supposed to serve this purpose. They are too long, and too flimsy to be of any use. I think the whole prop, rudder area is very vulnerable and I'm beginning to wonder if this kit was ever intended to be a working model. Stuck together to Deans specification, then put in a glass case may have been the intention.

cheers, Nerys

Hi Nerys,
It's precisely in cases like this that a coupla pics would be extreeemly handy😉 so we can see where the kit weaknesses lie.
Attached is the best photo I can so far find showing the rudder and prop mounts on a real LST.
Hope it helps a bit. Don't forget the object of, what looks rather odd to us, is to allow the ships to beach to unload and float off on the next tide.
I now understand what you meant previously about the rudders being mounted right on the edge of bilges☹️
Without pics I don't know what the mounts look like inside the hull soooo-
my thought is to build plasticard boxes around the rudder stock tubes and fill them with two part epoxy.
If the hull is particularly twisty at the stern a false bulkhead may help to stiffen things up👍
For the prop shafts I see on the photo that there is a fillet (or skeg?) to hold the shafts and protect the props from grounding. I hope that these are moulded into the kit hull🤞
Ffrind annwyl lwc dda😀, Cheers, Doug 😎

Caption of the photo reads
"USS LST-325 (left) and USS LST-388 unloading while stranded at low tide during the Normandy Invasion in June 1944. Note: propellers, rudders, and other underwater details of these LSTs; 40 mm single guns; "Danforth" style kedge anchor at LST-325's stern."

Thanks Ian, that's what I had worked out to do, I've also ordered some brass tube as I will have to replace those. The set up as designed was nowhere man enough, I should have known better when I started on the rudder set up.

Cheers, Nerys

Hi Nerys
I find a bit of 3mm ply helps. Epoxy it to the hull and then drill.
I do this with all rudders and prop shafts.

Tend to agree with Martin 555.
Maybe Deans Quality isn't what it should be.☹️☹️

Sorry to hear that Nerys,
It sounds like she is fighting you all the way.

Martin555.

Another snag with the steering. The leverage effect of a few wiggles with the servo tester, has loosened the prop shafts. A bit of beefing up and some sort of support between shafts and skin of ship is called for. Not a lot, but all annoying and time wasting.

Cheers, Nerys

Keep it up Nerys,
We are all itching to see some progress photos.

Martin555.

Both LST 368 and the as yet unnamed Thames Barge, having been fitted with prop shafts and rudders, passed their flotation test this evening. On the next occasion I can muster the energy, I'll start working on the decks.

Cheers, Nerys

Well, I just upgraded my contract and took possession of a CAT shockproof and waterproof phone ( thought waterproof would be a good idea as I have lost a non waterproof one on a boating expedition), this was definitely not a smartphone more a dumbphone after battling for 4 months with it I returned and lodged a complaint. It was replaced with a new Samsung (Not waterproof)