Weather was perfect tonight for a test, so I did the 15km trip out to the Gulf harbour pond (most weed free pond) to throw the boat in. After a thorough under water hull inspection from the marine department, she was off. Everything worked ok except the silicone drive tube which had become enlarged due to soaking in the grease coming out the front of the jet shaft. It was slipping badly and probably losing about 60% of its' thrust. Manoeuvrability is excellent but reverse leaves a bit to be be desired. Steering in reverse is perfect but the thrust is not going forwards enough from the bucket. Might have to build in some nozzles to direct it better.
Smoke air and water are working as well as can be expected, (smoke is a bit wafty, but with too much air introduced it will disappear as it gets thinned out too much to see) I was not expecting miracles as this was a bit of an experiment (modified cheap jet unit with unknown abilities) but at least it shows promise😁. If I can find a coupling which is concentric it will solve the drive problem.
Trouble is, the Chinese insist on making a 4mm shaft, 4.95 (or whatever) which is useless for balance in a 4mm ID bearing for example. Fine for cars, but no good for boats or planes due to balance requirements (it's a mission trying to balance plane props due to this thinking,- they do it with everything) shafts for electric motors are a nightmare at times as the play they build in, can ruin an otherwise good motor. I might have to buy a flexible rubber/nylon universal or a collet style( preferable as these take up any undersize on shafts) to fix it. They included a spiral alloy one with the jet unit which is as loose as a rooster in a sock, and only good for slower things like 3D printers etc. One of these days they will learn how to machine things to fit.😐
Seemed to work a whole lot better in the tank for some reason Martin. Possibly due to the coupling slipping, (the squealing is it slipping) Just a bit of silicone fuel tube. I use it on all the boats as it's quiet, self aligning, and lets go if your prop gets jammed by weed. Problem is with the jet, it has a flat on the shaft for some reason which doesn't help the tube grip, and lets grease in causing slippage. I'll sort it eventually,- didn't expect miracles first time out (same with planes) - Almost always some small initial problems.
Motor should be spinning at 15,000 rpm with a 3 cell, but performance is not matching that, obviously,- just piddling along😁 Mind you, I used to cruise like that in the full sized boat, as the Zodiac motor used to suck gas like nothing at 20 knots plus, (gallons per mile, not miles per gallon!)
HARTLEY FLARELINE, NEW PROJECT - STARTUP SMOKE TEST
A bit more refinement on the timing but getting there. Finally got the voltage regs from China to complete the system. A bit noisy, as the water pump is dry,- quietens down with water. Switches in stages using Grahams magic timer, - 1. smoke on, 2. water and air on. There is actually smoke running constantly at a reduced level once everything is running, but very hard to film. I could turn it up but I don't want it to look like it's on fire😂
Managed to shoehorn in a GT Power sound unit, and seeing the boat has a 'V8 installed' I thought I'd go with the V8tyest sound there was in the file😁😁. You can hear Grahams timer switch the air and water pumps on at the start of the vid, (after I switch the power on) - off-reset-on and off again before the engine start. The engine sound is a little bit muffled as the unit is buried under everything in the stern, but still gives a reasonable effect (well I think anyway😁)
Smoke, water and air are ready to go,- just waiting for some V regs to come via sampan.
Thanks Ed, the GT Power unit has about 55 different car and diesel machinery sounds (unfortunately a lot of noisy high revving 4 cyl sounds) but there are a number of good ones which can be applied to boats.
Hi Pete, the throttle is mode 1 on the 9x. I usually use a 6ch HK6DF which I've converted to twin throttles for the MTB, HSL and ST (was bought as mode 2 but converted to mode 1 and modified to twin throttles). I bought 2 of those a few years back before they changed to inside aerial and digital trims, (basic 6ch, - one for small planes and one for boats) I think they were also a Fly sky with HK stickers, but they have been 100% reliable. I needed a bit of programming ability with the jet unit (end points ) for the bucket and a few more switches for lights etc, and with only one motor in this boat the 9x was perfect. I use it for planes as well and have about 6 models on it.
Left stick rudder is used for arming the smoke/water/air timer which Graham built.
Had a large moment of enthusiasm yesterday and fitted the jet unit and associated bits. Then it was time to wet its bum for a test. First off, the jet wouldn't suck water without pushing the stern down slightly, (as I expected due to the boats' light weight.) I added 300g to the stern and she was away😊 Happiness filled I were😁!. Reversing bucket works very well (even though it's a bit of a blob on the transom). You really need one if you don't want to go forward forever, trying not to 'sail yourself into a corner'.
I Need to waterproof the pushrod holes in the transom but the bellows I bought are too stiff and compress too much, so I'll have to come up with another method, (probably some deflectors for a start. Only a problem when in reverse with a bit of throttle on. Plenty of power with the 2s I was using, but motor is rated 12-24v so it would scream, -even with a 3s. I'll start with 2s and see how it goes. Might have an initial blast on the lake this week if all goes well, although I'd like to finish the deck bits first.
Just waiting for some Voltage regs to come so I can complete the electrical side with the fancy bits.. The mechanical and electrical sides are as good as done, Grahams timer is working perfectly, with the water pump and air pumps hooked up (going to install a VReg on each one plus the smoker).
Delay timer for air pump on exhaust smoke for start-up effect.
Working on this idea for a bit more refinement on the exhaust smoke idea. Graham mentioned these timers were worth a look, so I purchased a few from Ali Express for about 90c each. They work well for an off/on set-up but not quite as well for an on/off set-up. They are variable from 0-12 secs and have a lot of possible uses. I was trying for a puff of smoke at start-up (which in my application works in conjunction with the twin sound units (HSL and ST) and this initial test seems to work ok (bit of refinement with timing and air pump speed required yet). Already have the smoke going well but there's always a little morsel to add (ref Mr Creosote)
I'll be using the small 5A voltage regulating bucks in the models (the ones shown are just for testing) with one 2s LiPo running 2 regs,- one for pump, and one through the timer for the smoke pen. You can see the timer working with no input from the TX in the vid, When fitted, both will be switched on/off simultaneously with the solenoid 'latching' power on/off, circuit (thanks to Graham for the layout) using the left stick.
JB
Re- She picked up speed pretty quickly for her size.
She gets up and goes with 12,750 horse-powers' worth of 3 Bristol Proteus turbines Martin. Not to bad for 139ft ! Rather impressive with 41 knts on tap. Give a few small cars a run for their money!
JB
As a follow-on to Grahams' comment on our latest collaboration on a smoke pulsing 'capacitor driven' device, we thought it was time to 'chuck it out there' and see what you think. I saw the vid on the guys warship with the very fancy gun smoke system a while ago and thought there must be a simpler way than the sophisticated and technical way he did it.
Having done press setting in my early days, I remembered that a big press we used to set had a hydraulic capacitor which helped get the ram moving (pretty much what electrical capacitors do for motors etc) I started with a common party balloon with no container and knew Graham would be interested, and it progressed from there. As usual, Graham has done a fancy bit of electronic control on his, with solenoid and timing and has it working nicely.
(just received my new solenoid which I will be adding in due course)
Balloon is stopped from filling by a micro switch to the air pump and air is released by solenoid at whatever timing you need (depending on how well your smoker can keep up). If the system has no leaks, the 'capacitor' can hold air indefinitely, ready for use, and will re-fill automatically, (pump only runs to re-fill) This idea can be modified to suit anything (guns, exhaust startup and run, steam to simulate steam whistle etc) Balloons of all shapes can be used eg -(long thin sausage balloons could be fitted inside a tube if space is an issue).
With a good air pump, the 'capacitor' will fill quite quickly and some good pressure can be achieved.
JB
Always thinking of improvements and new gadgets Martin, which might be useful for new model builds. At least Graham and I have got it pretty much sorted, so people can do modifications to suit their particular models. Main thing is that these devices are cheap and simple to make (in basic form) which is the whole idea, and can give your model that little bit extra. Most bits can be easily sourced from Ali Express/ Ebay etc.
JB
In case you have a smoke device using these or any smoker you can fill remotely by this method. Just used a reservoir and (for the purpose of the test) a 6v water pump running as slowly as possible. Pump sucks fluid through the smoke tank from the reservoir and recirculates it back to same. Reservoir fluid level needs to be level with, or below the smoke tank inlets to avoid siphoning to the tank and flooding the wick. With this system it only takes a few seconds to fill. You could also use the same idea manually with a deck filler and overflow. Either system must be sealed (airtight) to avoid fluid draining from tank when not in use, ( Manual system - both tubes plugged after filling) This idea does away with disassembling E-pen to fill .
JB
Ref:- "liquid duck poop is pretty corrosive"
That did make me smile.
I used to always take a large bottle of fresh water with me for washing down my boats lake side and other members used to laugh at me but at least i knew that my boat was nice and clean ready to be put away ready for next time.
Hi Martin, certainly necessary if using small brass or copper cooling pipes etc as they tend to get a bit of corrosion after a few years. Always wsh my boats down with mild detergent in a spray bottle and paper towels after running them (surprising how pond water stains if you don't). I wish I'd just wrapped the HSL inrunners with copper coils instead of fitting the fancy cooling jackets, as you are never sure what's happening to the painted steel motor casings inside, (hence the penetrating oil)! The motor end cap screws are probably welded in by now😀.
JB
Think I've finally sorted the mixing smoke and water for exhausts problem. Graham has already done his using the same pen / e-cig unit but with some nice electronic controls for the on off system, but not having the electronic abilities I've just gone with a more basic method. Wired up the pen and installed a filler tube (2 tubes are better - one for a breather) these are capped after filling to prevent air getting back from the pump. This system has a water pump, an air pump and the smoke unit, (all adjustable with their own voltage buck) Thanks to Martin for his pen suggestion. I was previously using large capacity elements fitted in various containers for my experiments (truckloads of smoke available) but these pens are great for tight spaces and don't draw much current.
Air, and a small amount of the cooling water are mixed by venturis just short of the exits (the air pushing the smoke and blowing the water clear of the smoke tubes). I've fitted the same system into my ST but am still waiting for the air pump from China (postal system problem there, then Chinese new year holidays with new rules apparently) Get the odd bubble at rest but with the low exhaust you can't have everything.
Latest vid with boat in the tank.
Thanks Peter, took a while to get there, should see the pile of stuff I've collected while doing all this experimenting! Have a smoker for every occasion😁!
JB
Gave up trying to fit a smoke device in the HSL due to lack of room so decided to try something else. Set up the twin small air pumps (1 per exit) and made some y joints to link them to the pump and exhaust outlets,. Works reasonably well and not too noisy. Breaks up the flow a bit and gives it an 'exhaust flow look'.
JB
Hi Mike. I used 2 mini air pumps (3v) same as the one you are using, (1 per side) Drawing is of method used but without the smoke (as mentioned,- no room) and just running an extra line from the cooling pump instead to the smoke/air exit. The larger 12v pump I tried (see latest smoker attached to exhaust pipes vid) works a lot better and is quieter if you have the room.
John
Hooked it up to test exhausts and set the voltage a bit higher (2.6v) to show a bit more smoke. It can go to 3.5V but the test V reg Buck wont handle it (I've fitted a fan but still gets hot quick on 3.6V although not quite as bad.)
JB
Nice to see her in the water.
I am very surprised at the lack of reverse.
Martin555.
Motor should be spinning at 15,000 rpm with a 3 cell, but performance is not matching that, obviously,- just piddling along😁 Mind you, I used to cruise like that in the full sized boat, as the Zodiac motor used to suck gas like nothing at 20 knots plus, (gallons per mile, not miles per gallon!)
JB