Smoke air and water switching sequence, (sound's out of sync for some reason,)
{"text":"Smoke air and water switching sequence, (sound's out of sync for some reason,)","subject":"HARTLEY SMOKE 2","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkehOxet7VQ"}
A bit more refinement on the timing but getting there. Finally got the voltage regs from China to complete the system. A bit noisy, as the water pump is dry,- quietens down with water. Switches in stages using Grahams magic timer, - 1. smoke on, 2. water and air on. There is actually smoke running constantly at a reduced level once everything is running, but very hard to film. I could turn it up but I don't want it to look like it's on fire😂
{"text":"A bit more refinement on the timing but getting there. Finally got the voltage regs from China to complete the system. A bit noisy, as the water pump is dry,- quietens down with water. Switches in stages using Grahams magic timer, - 1. smoke on, 2. water and air on. There is actually smoke running constantly at a reduced level once everything is running, but very hard to film. I could turn it up but I don't want it to look like it's on fire\ud83d\ude02","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE, NEW PROJECT - STARTUP SMOKE TEST","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31lTklh4ciQ"}
HARTLEY FLARELINE, NEW PROJECT - STARTUP SMOKE TEST
A bit more refinement on the timing but getting there. Finally got the voltage regs from China to complete the system. A bit noisy, as the water pump is dry,- quietens down with water. Switches in stages using Grahams magic timer, - 1. smoke on, 2. water and air on. There is actually smoke running constantly at a reduced level once everything is running, but very hard to film. I could turn it up but I don't want it to look like it's on fire😂
Tug: Brooklyn tub test!
You can barely see it!
But, there's actually steam coming out of the Smoke Stack!
Simulated of course! LOL!
{"text":"Tug: Brooklyn tub test!\n\nYou can barely see it!\n\nBut, there's actually steam coming out of the Smoke Stack! \n\nSimulated of course! LOL!","subject":"Tug: Brooklyn!","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=os2igFDogn8"}
Managed to shoehorn in a GT Power sound unit, and seeing the boat has a 'V8 installed' I thought I'd go with the V8tyest sound there was in the file😁😁. You can hear Grahams timer switch the air and water pumps on at the start of the vid, (after I switch the power on) - off-reset-on and off again before the engine start. The engine sound is a little bit muffled as the unit is buried under everything in the stern, but still gives a reasonable effect (well I think anyway😁)
Smoke, water and air are ready to go,- just waiting for some V regs to come via sampan.
{"text":"Managed to shoehorn in a GT Power sound unit, and seeing the boat has a 'V8 installed' I thought I'd go with the V8tyest sound there was in the file\ud83d\ude01\ud83d\ude01. You can hear Grahams timer switch the air and water pumps on at the start of the vid, (after I switch the power on) - off-reset-on and off again before the engine start. The engine sound is a little bit muffled as the unit is buried under everything in the stern, but still gives a reasonable effect (well I think anyway\ud83d\ude01)\n\nSmoke, water and air are ready to go,- just waiting for some V regs to come via sampan.","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE, NEW PROJECT, SOUND","media":[{"id":"159895592917","name":"159895592917","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/159895592917/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/159895592917/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"}],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aI43CVm-N3s"}
Managed to shoehorn in a GT Power sound unit, and seeing the boat has a 'V8 installed' I thought I'd go with the V8tyest sound there was in the file😁😁. You can hear Grahams timer switch the air and water pumps on at the start of the vid, (after I switch the power on) - off-reset-on and off again before the engine start. The engine sound is a little bit muffled as the unit is buried under everything in the stern, but still gives a reasonable effect (well I think anyway😁)
Smoke, water and air are ready to go,- just waiting for some V regs to come via sampan.
Thanks Ed, the GT Power unit has about 55 different car and diesel machinery sounds (unfortunately a lot of noisy high revving 4 cyl sounds) but there are a number of good ones which can be applied to boats.
JB
Re - Great sound effects!
Thanks Ed, the GT Power unit has about 55 different car and diesel machinery sounds (unfortunately a lot of noisy high revving 4 cyl sounds) but there are a number of good ones which can be applied to boats.
JB
Hi Pete, the throttle is mode 1 on the 9x. I usually use a 6ch HK6DF which I've converted to twin throttles for the MTB, HSL and ST (was bought as mode 2 but converted to mode 1 and modified to twin throttles). I bought 2 of those a few years back before they changed to inside aerial and digital trims, (basic 6ch, - one for small planes and one for boats) I think they were also a Fly sky with HK stickers, but they have been 100% reliable. I needed a bit of programming ability with the jet unit (end points ) for the bucket and a few more switches for lights etc, and with only one motor in this boat the 9x was perfect. I use it for planes as well and have about 6 models on it.
Left stick rudder is used for arming the smoke/water/air timer which Graham built.
JB
Hi Pete, the throttle is mode 1 on the 9x. I usually use a 6ch HK6DF which I've converted to twin throttles for the MTB, HSL and ST (was bought as mode 2 but converted to mode 1 and modified to twin throttles). I bought 2 of those a few years back before they changed to inside aerial and digital trims, (basic 6ch, - one for small planes and one for boats) I think they were also a Fly sky with HK stickers, but they have been 100% reliable. I needed a bit of programming ability with the jet unit (end points ) for the bucket and a few more switches for lights etc, and with only one motor in this boat the 9x was perfect. I use it for planes as well and have about 6 models on it.
Left stick rudder is used for arming the smoke/water/air timer which Graham built.
JB
Had a large moment of enthusiasm yesterday and fitted the jet unit and associated bits. Then it was time to wet its bum for a test. First off, the jet wouldn't suck water without pushing the stern down slightly, (as I expected due to the boats' light weight.) I added 300g to the stern and she was away😊 Happiness filled I were😁!. Reversing bucket works very well (even though it's a bit of a blob on the transom). You really need one if you don't want to go forward forever, trying not to 'sail yourself into a corner'.
I Need to waterproof the pushrod holes in the transom but the bellows I bought are too stiff and compress too much, so I'll have to come up with another method, (probably some deflectors for a start. Only a problem when in reverse with a bit of throttle on. Plenty of power with the 2s I was using, but motor is rated 12-24v so it would scream, -even with a 3s. I'll start with 2s and see how it goes. Might have an initial blast on the lake this week if all goes well, although I'd like to finish the deck bits first.
Just waiting for some Voltage regs to come so I can complete the electrical side with the fancy bits.. The mechanical and electrical sides are as good as done, Grahams timer is working perfectly, with the water pump and air pumps hooked up (going to install a VReg on each one plus the smoker).
{"text":"Had a large moment of enthusiasm yesterday and fitted the jet unit and associated bits. Then it was time to wet its bum for a test. First off, the jet wouldn't suck water without pushing the stern down slightly, (as I expected due to the boats' light weight.) I added 300g to the stern and she was away\ud83d\ude0a Happiness filled I were\ud83d\ude01!. Reversing bucket works very well (even though it's a bit of a blob on the transom). You really need one if you don't want to go forward forever, trying not to 'sail yourself into a corner'.\n\n I Need to waterproof the pushrod holes in the transom but the bellows I bought are too stiff and compress too much, so I'll have to come up with another method, (probably some deflectors for a start. Only a problem when in reverse with a bit of throttle on. Plenty of power with the 2s I was using, but motor is rated 12-24v so it would scream, -even with a 3s. I'll start with 2s and see how it goes. Might have an initial blast on the lake this week if all goes well, although I'd like to finish the deck bits first.\n\nJust waiting for some Voltage regs to come so I can complete the electrical side with the fancy bits.. The mechanical and electrical sides are as good as done, Grahams timer is working perfectly, with the water pump and air pumps hooked up (going to install a VReg on each one plus the smoker).","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE, FINALLY TAKES A BATH !","media":[{"id":"159895592917","name":"159895592917","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/159895592917/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/159895592917/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"}],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5li5cfjq7uI"}
Had a large moment of enthusiasm yesterday and fitted the jet unit and associated bits. Then it was time to wet its bum for a test. First off, the jet wouldn't suck water without pushing the stern down slightly, (as I expected due to the boats' light weight.) I added 300g to the stern and she was away😊 Happiness filled I were😁!. Reversing bucket works very well (even though it's a bit of a blob on the transom). You really need one if you don't want to go forward forever, trying not to 'sail yourself into a corner'.
I Need to waterproof the pushrod holes in the transom but the bellows I bought are too stiff and compress too much, so I'll have to come up with another method, (probably some deflectors for a start. Only a problem when in reverse with a bit of throttle on. Plenty of power with the 2s I was using, but motor is rated 12-24v so it would scream, -even with a 3s. I'll start with 2s and see how it goes. Might have an initial blast on the lake this week if all goes well, although I'd like to finish the deck bits first.
Just waiting for some Voltage regs to come so I can complete the electrical side with the fancy bits.. The mechanical and electrical sides are as good as done, Grahams timer is working perfectly, with the water pump and air pumps hooked up (going to install a VReg on each one plus the smoker).
Working on this idea for a bit more refinement on the exhaust smoke idea. Graham mentioned these timers were worth a look, so I purchased a few from Ali Express for about 90c each. They work well for an off/on set-up but not quite as well for an on/off set-up. They are variable from 0-12 secs and have a lot of possible uses. I was trying for a puff of smoke at start-up (which in my application works in conjunction with the twin sound units (HSL and ST) and this initial test seems to work ok (bit of refinement with timing and air pump speed required yet). Already have the smoke going well but there's always a little morsel to add (ref Mr Creosote)
I'll be using the small 5A voltage regulating bucks in the models (the ones shown are just for testing) with one 2s LiPo running 2 regs,- one for pump, and one through the timer for the smoke pen. You can see the timer working with no input from the TX in the vid, When fitted, both will be switched on/off simultaneously with the solenoid 'latching' power on/off, circuit (thanks to Graham for the layout) using the left stick.
JB
{"text":"Working on this idea for a bit more refinement on the exhaust smoke idea. Graham mentioned these timers were worth a look, so I purchased a few from Ali Express for about 90c each. They work well for an off/on set-up but not quite as well for an on/off set-up. They are variable from 0-12 secs and have a lot of possible uses. I was trying for a puff of smoke at start-up (which in my application works in conjunction with the twin sound units (HSL and ST) and this initial test seems to work ok (bit of refinement with timing and air pump speed required yet). Already have the smoke going well but there's always a little morsel to add (ref Mr Creosote)\n\nI'll be using the small 5A voltage regulating bucks in the models (the ones shown are just for testing) with one 2s LiPo running 2 regs,- one for pump, and one through the timer for the smoke pen. You can see the timer working with no input from the TX in the vid, When fitted, both will be switched on/off simultaneously with the solenoid 'latching' power on/off, circuit (thanks to Graham for the layout) using the left stick. \nJB","subject":"Delay timer for air pump on exhaust smoke for start-up effect.","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9jyAOu_8udw"}
Delay timer for air pump on exhaust smoke for start-up effect.
Working on this idea for a bit more refinement on the exhaust smoke idea. Graham mentioned these timers were worth a look, so I purchased a few from Ali Express for about 90c each. They work well for an off/on set-up but not quite as well for an on/off set-up. They are variable from 0-12 secs and have a lot of possible uses. I was trying for a puff of smoke at start-up (which in my application works in conjunction with the twin sound units (HSL and ST) and this initial test seems to work ok (bit of refinement with timing and air pump speed required yet). Already have the smoke going well but there's always a little morsel to add (ref Mr Creosote)
I'll be using the small 5A voltage regulating bucks in the models (the ones shown are just for testing) with one 2s LiPo running 2 regs,- one for pump, and one through the timer for the smoke pen. You can see the timer working with no input from the TX in the vid, When fitted, both will be switched on/off simultaneously with the solenoid 'latching' power on/off, circuit (thanks to Graham for the layout) using the left stick.
JB
Re- She picked up speed pretty quickly for her size.
She gets up and goes with 12,750 horse-powers' worth of 3 Bristol Proteus turbines Martin. Not to bad for 139ft ! Rather impressive with 41 knts on tap. Give a few small cars a run for their money!
JB
Re- She picked up speed pretty quickly for her size.
She gets up and goes with 12,750 horse-powers' worth of 3 Bristol Proteus turbines Martin. Not to bad for 139ft ! Rather impressive with 41 knts on tap. Give a few small cars a run for their money!
JB
As a follow-on to Grahams' comment on our latest collaboration on a smoke pulsing 'capacitor driven' device, we thought it was time to 'chuck it out there' and see what you think. I saw the vid on the guys warship with the very fancy gun smoke system a while ago and thought there must be a simpler way than the sophisticated and technical way he did it.
Having done press setting in my early days, I remembered that a big press we used to set had a hydraulic capacitor which helped get the ram moving (pretty much what electrical capacitors do for motors etc) I started with a common party balloon with no container and knew Graham would be interested, and it progressed from there. As usual, Graham has done a fancy bit of electronic control on his, with solenoid and timing and has it working nicely.
(just received my new solenoid which I will be adding in due course)
Balloon is stopped from filling by a micro switch to the air pump and air is released by solenoid at whatever timing you need (depending on how well your smoker can keep up). If the system has no leaks, the 'capacitor' can hold air indefinitely, ready for use, and will re-fill automatically, (pump only runs to re-fill) This idea can be modified to suit anything (guns, exhaust startup and run, steam to simulate steam whistle etc) Balloons of all shapes can be used eg -(long thin sausage balloons could be fitted inside a tube if space is an issue).
With a good air pump, the 'capacitor' will fill quite quickly and some good pressure can be achieved.
JB
{"text":"As a follow-on to Grahams' comment on our latest collaboration on a smoke pulsing 'capacitor driven' device, we thought it was time to 'chuck it out there' and see what you think. I saw the vid on the guys warship with the very fancy gun smoke system a while ago and thought there must be a simpler way than the sophisticated and technical way he did it. \n\n Having done press setting in my early days, I remembered that a big press we used to set had a hydraulic capacitor which helped get the ram moving (pretty much what electrical capacitors do for motors etc) I started with a common party balloon with no container and knew Graham would be interested, and it progressed from there. As usual, Graham has done a fancy bit of electronic control on his, with solenoid and timing and has it working nicely. \n(just received my new solenoid which I will be adding in due course) \n\nBalloon is stopped from filling by a micro switch to the air pump and air is released by solenoid at whatever timing you need (depending on how well your smoker can keep up). If the system has no leaks, the 'capacitor' can hold air indefinitely, ready for use, and will re-fill automatically, (pump only runs to re-fill) This idea can be modified to suit anything (guns, exhaust startup and run, steam to simulate steam whistle etc) Balloons of all shapes can be used eg -(long thin sausage balloons could be fitted inside a tube if space is an issue).\n\nWith a good air pump, the 'capacitor' will fill quite quickly and some good pressure can be achieved.\nJB","subject":"LATEST SMOKE PULSER FOR GUNS ETC","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21ldu5Gw0tc"}
As a follow-on to Grahams' comment on our latest collaboration on a smoke pulsing 'capacitor driven' device, we thought it was time to 'chuck it out there' and see what you think. I saw the vid on the guys warship with the very fancy gun smoke system a while ago and thought there must be a simpler way than the sophisticated and technical way he did it.
Having done press setting in my early days, I remembered that a big press we used to set had a hydraulic capacitor which helped get the ram moving (pretty much what electrical capacitors do for motors etc) I started with a common party balloon with no container and knew Graham would be interested, and it progressed from there. As usual, Graham has done a fancy bit of electronic control on his, with solenoid and timing and has it working nicely.
(just received my new solenoid which I will be adding in due course)
Balloon is stopped from filling by a micro switch to the air pump and air is released by solenoid at whatever timing you need (depending on how well your smoker can keep up). If the system has no leaks, the 'capacitor' can hold air indefinitely, ready for use, and will re-fill automatically, (pump only runs to re-fill) This idea can be modified to suit anything (guns, exhaust startup and run, steam to simulate steam whistle etc) Balloons of all shapes can be used eg -(long thin sausage balloons could be fitted inside a tube if space is an issue).
With a good air pump, the 'capacitor' will fill quite quickly and some good pressure can be achieved.
JB
Always thinking of improvements and new gadgets Martin, which might be useful for new model builds. At least Graham and I have got it pretty much sorted, so people can do modifications to suit their particular models. Main thing is that these devices are cheap and simple to make (in basic form) which is the whole idea, and can give your model that little bit extra. Most bits can be easily sourced from Ali Express/ Ebay etc.
JB
Always thinking of improvements and new gadgets Martin, which might be useful for new model builds. At least Graham and I have got it pretty much sorted, so people can do modifications to suit their particular models. Main thing is that these devices are cheap and simple to make (in basic form) which is the whole idea, and can give your model that little bit extra. Most bits can be easily sourced from Ali Express/ Ebay etc.
JB
Hi Jb,
"these devices are cheap and simple to make (in basic form) which is the whole idea".
I fully agree thanks to you and Graham and your fantastic experiment.
Martin555.
Hi Jb,
"these devices are cheap and simple to make (in basic form) which is the whole idea".
I fully agree thanks to you and Graham and your fantastic experiment.
Martin555.
In case you have a smoke device using these or any smoker you can fill remotely by this method. Just used a reservoir and (for the purpose of the test) a 6v water pump running as slowly as possible. Pump sucks fluid through the smoke tank from the reservoir and recirculates it back to same. Reservoir fluid level needs to be level with, or below the smoke tank inlets to avoid siphoning to the tank and flooding the wick. With this system it only takes a few seconds to fill. You could also use the same idea manually with a deck filler and overflow. Either system must be sealed (airtight) to avoid fluid draining from tank when not in use, ( Manual system - both tubes plugged after filling) This idea does away with disassembling E-pen to fill .
JB
{"text":"In case you have a smoke device using these or any smoker you can fill remotely by this method. Just used a reservoir and (for the purpose of the test) a 6v water pump running as slowly as possible. Pump sucks fluid through the smoke tank from the reservoir and recirculates it back to same. Reservoir fluid level needs to be level with, or below the smoke tank inlets to avoid siphoning to the tank and flooding the wick. With this system it only takes a few seconds to fill. You could also use the same idea manually with a deck filler and overflow. Either system must be sealed (airtight) to avoid fluid draining from tank when not in use, ( Manual system - both tubes plugged after filling) This idea does away with disassembling E-pen to fill .\nJB","subject":"E-CIG PEN SMOKE DEVICE AUTO FILLING.","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBADvmZA87I"}
In case you have a smoke device using these or any smoker you can fill remotely by this method. Just used a reservoir and (for the purpose of the test) a 6v water pump running as slowly as possible. Pump sucks fluid through the smoke tank from the reservoir and recirculates it back to same. Reservoir fluid level needs to be level with, or below the smoke tank inlets to avoid siphoning to the tank and flooding the wick. With this system it only takes a few seconds to fill. You could also use the same idea manually with a deck filler and overflow. Either system must be sealed (airtight) to avoid fluid draining from tank when not in use, ( Manual system - both tubes plugged after filling) This idea does away with disassembling E-pen to fill .
JB
Ref:- "liquid duck poop is pretty corrosive"
That did make me smile.
I used to always take a large bottle of fresh water with me for washing down my boats lake side and other members used to laugh at me but at least i knew that my boat was nice and clean ready to be put away ready for next time.
Martin555.
Hi Jb,
Ref:- "liquid duck poop is pretty corrosive"
That did make me smile.
I used to always take a large bottle of fresh water with me for washing down my boats lake side and other members used to laugh at me but at least i knew that my boat was nice and clean ready to be put away ready for next time.
Martin555.
Hi Martin, certainly necessary if using small brass or copper cooling pipes etc as they tend to get a bit of corrosion after a few years. Always wsh my boats down with mild detergent in a spray bottle and paper towels after running them (surprising how pond water stains if you don't). I wish I'd just wrapped the HSL inrunners with copper coils instead of fitting the fancy cooling jackets, as you are never sure what's happening to the painted steel motor casings inside, (hence the penetrating oil)! The motor end cap screws are probably welded in by now😀.
JB
Hi Martin, certainly necessary if using small brass or copper cooling pipes etc as they tend to get a bit of corrosion after a few years. Always wsh my boats down with mild detergent in a spray bottle and paper towels after running them (surprising how pond water stains if you don't). I wish I'd just wrapped the HSL inrunners with copper coils instead of fitting the fancy cooling jackets, as you are never sure what's happening to the painted steel motor casings inside, (hence the penetrating oil)! The motor end cap screws are probably welded in by now😀.
JB
Think I've finally sorted the mixing smoke and water for exhausts problem. Graham has already done his using the same pen / e-cig unit but with some nice electronic controls for the on off system, but not having the electronic abilities I've just gone with a more basic method. Wired up the pen and installed a filler tube (2 tubes are better - one for a breather) these are capped after filling to prevent air getting back from the pump. This system has a water pump, an air pump and the smoke unit, (all adjustable with their own voltage buck) Thanks to Martin for his pen suggestion. I was previously using large capacity elements fitted in various containers for my experiments (truckloads of smoke available) but these pens are great for tight spaces and don't draw much current.
Air, and a small amount of the cooling water are mixed by venturis just short of the exits (the air pushing the smoke and blowing the water clear of the smoke tubes). I've fitted the same system into my ST but am still waiting for the air pump from China (postal system problem there, then Chinese new year holidays with new rules apparently) Get the odd bubble at rest but with the low exhaust you can't have everything.
Latest vid with boat in the tank.
https://youtu.be/mb8KFfGafiM
JB
{"text":"Think I've finally sorted the mixing smoke and water for exhausts problem. Graham has already done his using the same pen / e-cig unit but with some nice electronic controls for the on off system, but not having the electronic abilities I've just gone with a more basic method. Wired up the pen and installed a filler tube (2 tubes are better - one for a breather) these are capped after filling to prevent air getting back from the pump. This system has a water pump, an air pump and the smoke unit, (all adjustable with their own voltage buck) Thanks to Martin for his pen suggestion. I was previously using large capacity elements fitted in various containers for my experiments (truckloads of smoke available) but these pens are great for tight spaces and don't draw much current.\n \n Air, and a small amount of the cooling water are mixed by venturis just short of the exits (the air pushing the smoke and blowing the water clear of the smoke tubes). I've fitted the same system into my ST but am still waiting for the air pump from China (postal system problem there, then Chinese new year holidays with new rules apparently) Get the odd bubble at rest but with the low exhaust you can't have everything.\nLatest vid with boat in the tank.\n\nhttps://youtu.be/mb8KFfGafiM\n\nJB","subject":"SMOKE AND WATER EXHAUST SORTED ?","media":[{"id":"158065303919","name":"158065303919","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/158065303919/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/158065303919/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"},{"id":"157961532638","name":"157961532638","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/157961532638/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/157961532638/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"}],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mb8KFfGafiM"}
Think I've finally sorted the mixing smoke and water for exhausts problem. Graham has already done his using the same pen / e-cig unit but with some nice electronic controls for the on off system, but not having the electronic abilities I've just gone with a more basic method. Wired up the pen and installed a filler tube (2 tubes are better - one for a breather) these are capped after filling to prevent air getting back from the pump. This system has a water pump, an air pump and the smoke unit, (all adjustable with their own voltage buck) Thanks to Martin for his pen suggestion. I was previously using large capacity elements fitted in various containers for my experiments (truckloads of smoke available) but these pens are great for tight spaces and don't draw much current.
Air, and a small amount of the cooling water are mixed by venturis just short of the exits (the air pushing the smoke and blowing the water clear of the smoke tubes). I've fitted the same system into my ST but am still waiting for the air pump from China (postal system problem there, then Chinese new year holidays with new rules apparently) Get the odd bubble at rest but with the low exhaust you can't have everything.
Latest vid with boat in the tank.
Thanks Peter, took a while to get there, should see the pile of stuff I've collected while doing all this experimenting! Have a smoker for every occasion😁!
JB
Thanks Peter, took a while to get there, should see the pile of stuff I've collected while doing all this experimenting! Have a smoker for every occasion😁!
JB
Gave up trying to fit a smoke device in the HSL due to lack of room so decided to try something else. Set up the twin small air pumps (1 per exit) and made some y joints to link them to the pump and exhaust outlets,. Works reasonably well and not too noisy. Breaks up the flow a bit and gives it an 'exhaust flow look'.
JB
{"text":"Gave up trying to fit a smoke device in the HSL due to lack of room so decided to try something else. Set up the twin small air pumps (1 per exit) and made some y joints to link them to the pump and exhaust outlets,. Works reasonably well and not too noisy. Breaks up the flow a bit and gives it an 'exhaust flow look'.\nJB","subject":"NON SMOKING EXHAUST WITH AIR INJECTION","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AaHiO6mpoF8"}
Gave up trying to fit a smoke device in the HSL due to lack of room so decided to try something else. Set up the twin small air pumps (1 per exit) and made some y joints to link them to the pump and exhaust outlets,. Works reasonably well and not too noisy. Breaks up the flow a bit and gives it an 'exhaust flow look'.
JB
Hi Mike. I used 2 mini air pumps (3v) same as the one you are using, (1 per side) Drawing is of method used but without the smoke (as mentioned,- no room) and just running an extra line from the cooling pump instead to the smoke/air exit. The larger 12v pump I tried (see latest smoker attached to exhaust pipes vid) works a lot better and is quieter if you have the room.
John
Hi Mike. I used 2 mini air pumps (3v) same as the one you are using, (1 per side) Drawing is of method used but without the smoke (as mentioned,- no room) and just running an extra line from the cooling pump instead to the smoke/air exit. The larger 12v pump I tried (see latest smoker attached to exhaust pipes vid) works a lot better and is quieter if you have the room.
John[{"id":"157621156948","name":"157621156948","caption":"","url":"https:\/\/hobby.land\/media\/157621156948\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/hobby.land\/media\/157621156948\/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"},{"id":"157621159310","name":"157621159310","caption":"","url":"https:\/\/hobby.land\/media\/157621159310\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/hobby.land\/media\/157621159310\/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"}]
Hooked it up to test exhausts and set the voltage a bit higher (2.6v) to show a bit more smoke. It can go to 3.5V but the test V reg Buck wont handle it (I've fitted a fan but still gets hot quick on 3.6V although not quite as bad.)
JB
{"text":"Hooked it up to test exhausts and set the voltage a bit higher (2.6v) to show a bit more smoke. It can go to 3.5V but the test V reg Buck wont handle it (I've fitted a fan but still gets hot quick on 3.6V although not quite as bad.)\nJB","subject":"LATEST SMOKER MODEL Y HOOKED TO TEST EXHAUSTS","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZTjg1cPKHks"}
Hooked it up to test exhausts and set the voltage a bit higher (2.6v) to show a bit more smoke. It can go to 3.5V but the test V reg Buck wont handle it (I've fitted a fan but still gets hot quick on 3.6V although not quite as bad.)
JB
This is the latest smoke version running on only 2,2V (4 Amps) and using a 12v water/air pump running on 8v to push the smoke. I can't run it on 3v (coil capable of 3.5v) as the regulator (5 Amp) is only rated for around 3.5A continuous (found that out cooking the last one) They say they have an over heat cutout, - but not so much☹️!
Don't need any more smoke than this for most applications I would think, but it's there if you need Mt Etna. Might see if I can get some lower wattage coils to drop the amps. I've ordered a few different 5A regulators to try, but I think fans are going to be needed to cool them. I think this is about as small as you can make these, using this method and easy to find bits and pieces, as you have to leave a reasonable air gap so as not to melt the housing, (also to pack the cotton around the coil)
There are the pre-wound coils to try next which might be able to be fitted in a smaller metal housing, but that's for later. I'm sure everyone has the idea by now and it will be interesting to see what others come up with for their particular models.
JB
{"text":"This is the latest smoke version running on only 2,2V (4 Amps) and using a 12v water/air pump running on 8v to push the smoke. I can't run it on 3v (coil capable of 3.5v) as the regulator (5 Amp) is only rated for around 3.5A continuous (found that out cooking the last one) They say they have an over heat cutout, - but not so much\u2639\ufe0f! \n \n Don't need any more smoke than this for most applications I would think, but it's there if you need Mt Etna. Might see if I can get some lower wattage coils to drop the amps. I've ordered a few different 5A regulators to try, but I think fans are going to be needed to cool them. I think this is about as small as you can make these, using this method and easy to find bits and pieces, as you have to leave a reasonable air gap so as not to melt the housing, (also to pack the cotton around the coil)\n\nThere are the pre-wound coils to try next which might be able to be fitted in a smaller metal housing, but that's for later. I'm sure everyone has the idea by now and it will be interesting to see what others come up with for their particular models.\nJB","subject":"LATEST SMOKER VERSION Y RUNNING","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTRka_XGy7E"}
This is the latest smoke version running on only 2,2V (4 Amps) and using a 12v water/air pump running on 8v to push the smoke. I can't run it on 3v (coil capable of 3.5v) as the regulator (5 Amp) is only rated for around 3.5A continuous (found that out cooking the last one) They say they have an over heat cutout, - but not so much☹️!
Don't need any more smoke than this for most applications I would think, but it's there if you need Mt Etna. Might see if I can get some lower wattage coils to drop the amps. I've ordered a few different 5A regulators to try, but I think fans are going to be needed to cool them. I think this is about as small as you can make these, using this method and easy to find bits and pieces, as you have to leave a reasonable air gap so as not to melt the housing, (also to pack the cotton around the coil)
There are the pre-wound coils to try next which might be able to be fitted in a smaller metal housing, but that's for later. I'm sure everyone has the idea by now and it will be interesting to see what others come up with for their particular models.
JB
Hi G6, yes, I removed the whole device. It was cooked due to a short/over voltage when the voltage buck threw a rod. Wired it up direct with another buck turned down to 2v. I'm going to try some other coils to drop the amps and have fitted a 12v fan to this buck to help cool it.
JB
Hi G6, yes, I removed the whole device. It was cooked due to a short/over voltage when the voltage buck threw a rod. Wired it up direct with another buck turned down to 2v. I'm going to try some other coils to drop the amps and have fitted a 12v fan to this buck to help cool it.
JB
Re - I have this feeling that you will start getting withdrawal symptoms when you Finish these experiments.
Probably Martin, I'm starting to dream about smoke so I think I should stop before I spontaneously combust !😂
JB
Re - I have this feeling that you will start getting withdrawal symptoms when you Finish these experiments.
Probably Martin, I'm starting to dream about smoke so I think I should stop before I spontaneously combust !😂
JB