Using Gopro, FPV Camera and Video Monitor to assist "Getting the shot in frame from different angles" - "Not easy trying do do everything at the same time " !. - Just For Fun !
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72 posts · Page 3 of 6Using Gopro, FPV Camera and Video Monitor to assist "Getting the shot in frame from different angles" - "Not easy trying do do everything at the same time " !. - Just For Fun !
- jbkiwiFleet AdmiralHi Rick, it's actually a tidal estuary (Orewa River) which doesn't look as good when the mud's in😁 (arrow is where I was for perspective). Get some good pics of sunsets from there at times. There's a walk/cycleway round the entire estuary which is pretty nice. Star is my place, so quite handy for boating. I was running the airboat from beside the boat ramp.
JB
(Apologies for the shaky video, trying to operate the Tx while holding the camera)
Graham93
Very quiet as well, - mind you, couldn't hear much anyhow with a road milling machine working at the end of the pond about 150m away, at around 80db where I was!!😠😠😠😭 Of course it would have to be there today,! something like this always stuffs my plans up, cars, trucks, screeching seagulls, people talking to you while you are trying to make a nice quiet video etc etc. Can't seem to get away from noise. Added to that, the video's crap,- as soon as it uploads to YT it turns to rubbish,- was quite acceptable till then.
Must be the wide format they use, as it's fine in a small screen (ie YT preview) and my computer. Worst thing is, it took an hour to load this rubbish on a fibre connection!! Not loading any more till I get a better camera, "Santa, did you hear that ?"😁
I might de-power it a bit, as it has too much power really,- might put 2 540 45T motors in which will run on 2s nicely with 30mm props (has 35s at the moment) and not be as touchy on the throttle. You can steer this just using the throttles it's so bitey. Spins on the spot like a jet boat as well. Stereo worked well, but the IR remote doesn't like working too far away in bright sunlight, (have a separate vid, but YT would give a copyright warning, so I won't put that up) The vid is garbage, but you'll get the idea😁
- Mike StoneyRear AdmiralHello JB!
Congratulations, also on your idea with the sack truck, which I am taking the liberty of copying. . .
Just awesome your ideas here on this homepage!
Greetings Mike
Filmed 20th June 2021 - onboard with Grahams fixed cam, and with Gopro from my camera boat.
Grahams "Build Blog" can be seen here :-
https://model-boats.com/blogs/86653
Also more photos here :- https://model-boats.com/places/60518
Phil.
Graham started his latest project 6 months ago at the beginning of second lock down.
A truly magnificent working model example of engineering, woodworking, electronics perseverance and total dedication ! - I am sure all will agree !.
Ref - https://model-boats.com/blogs/86653
Filmed with Gopro from camera boat - hope you enjoy !
Phil.
- MouldBuilderAdmiralBeautiful sailing boat. I bet James Onedin is pleased to have her on board.😃Liked by Martin555
Sea Scout built by Dad in the early sixties with a Taycol Target and 6V lead acid wet cells (very wet😡). Renovated and dragged into the 21st century over the last several months 😉
See Build Blog 'Sea Scout 'Jessica'' for details!
Motor: Propdrive 2830, 1000kV, 30mm 3 blade Raboesch prop. Quicrun 16BL30 (30A) ESC with BEC.
Tested with 3 battery types, all started with 99% measured capacity-
1. NiMh 4.2Ah 7.2V, nom. 408gm.
Result: Speed sedate (OK 😉scale river cruising!) No planing.
Max current: 3.6A
End status V / capacity left: At end of short run ca 3 mins. 7.78V 99%.
2. 2S LiPo 4.0Ah 7.4V nom. 257gm.
Result: Speed still sedate but due to lower batt weight at least the forefoot came out of the wet stuff! Max current: 4.1A
End status V / capacity left: At end of short run ca 3 mins. 8.25V 93%.
3. 3S LiPo 4.0Ah 11.1V nom. 315gm.
Result: Now we're getting somewhere!!😁
Good speed, manoeuvrability and planing 😊 Max current: 7.5A
End status: 11.95V 74% after several long runs, ca 20 mins total.
Estimated (extrapolated) endurance on a 4Ah LiPo around one hour - mostly 'full bore' - 'Pedal to the metal man' 😊
See also:
The competition!
Final run. (Beer was getting warm😁)
Cap'ns log entry:
Boat dead-weight w/o battery: 1.8kg.
Spray rails to be added!😲
Slight list to port to be trimmed.
Rudder servo to be reversed!!😲
Keel protection to be added: some scratches and flaking from stony sloping shore 🤔
Summary: much as expected👍 Forget anything less than 3S.
Anyone want to buy a batch (4) of new 2S 4Ah 45C Lipos? 'One careful owner'!
Happy boating people, Cheers Doug 😎
PS Many thanks to Camera girl Gisela 👍
Recorded in 1080p HD.
- RNinMunichFleet AdmiralHi Will,
The videos were all taken at stage 3. 'Now we're getting somewhere' with the 3S LiPo.
As depicted in the report there wasn't anything worth filming on either the 7.2V NiMh or the 7.4V 2S LiPo. Plod plod boring! I wasn't really surprised. I just wanted to know 😉
Cheers, Doug 😎Liked by Madwelshman - MadwelshmanLieutenant CommanderI suspected it was on the 3s in the video.
Thanks for that Doug.
Will
Sorry, vid is blurry again ☹️ (original's fine -HD) but something happens when it goes through my movie editor then to YT. Keep procrastinating about getting a better camera (or maybe it's just the editor. - More experimenting, this is getting tedious😐
- jbkiwiFleet AdmiralHi Ron, haven't spent a huge amount due to the fact that all the electrical bits are very cheap ($1 ea for a voltage reg, $8-12 for a pump, $30 ea for a motor (bought 2 as the first was not fast enough) and jet unit, $15 for the ESC, a few JST plugs and wire, $3 smoke pen, few lengths of silicone tube etc, plus balsa and f/glass, -probably not a lot more than NZ $200. A lot of things you buy of course like resin and paint, usually have to be bought in bigger quantities than you would use on one model, and may be used on other projects, so it's hard to work out an exact cost. I think the hull was the most expensive part, due to the cost of balsa and resin.
Mostly a lot of time, (hate to work out the labour cost on any model at going rates,- probably in the thousands)!
JBLiked by Martin555 and RNinMunich
Have pulled the jet apart and found that the 3 blade prop is around 1 mm too small for the hole, causing cavitation (see loads of bubbles in the jet stream) which is causing loss of thrust. The prop is the wrong type as well, with rounded blades, so I have modified a larger prop with more pitch to fit snugly in the unit to hopefully increase thrust. The shaft is also wrong, with a flat cut almost half the diam and carrying on through the bearing, allowing the grease to fly out.
I actually saw a Chinese site on Al Expr stating that "some dimensions on the product may be different due to the number of machines and operators involved in its' manufacture," SERIOUSLY!!??? their quality control must be utter crap and the operators not skilled enough to eat their lunch😐 Why bother having a dimension at all?? Little wonder nothing fits properly.
Unfortunately, most model shops sell the very same stuff, unless you want to shell out muchos dolleros for European stuff. I have just ordered some 4mm silver steel to make a new shaft, so a coupling or silicone tube will fit better. Also ordered some solid connectors to try. Vibration is wasted energy so it needs to be eliminated. Hopefully the mods will improve things and allow the motor to run on 4s rater than 3s. Worked out that the motor is only 1200KV, so it's only doing around 13,000 rpm under load. Probably will need around
18,000 rpm for proper performance. Onwards and upwards (or forwards as the case may be.😁)
Sorry about the blurry vid again, but my camera lens is knackered.
- jbkiwiFleet AdmiralHi Martin, quite pleased that it worked so well😊 And you mean put out fires like this ? (jet boat, Lake Lyndon NZ 2012)😁😁 Quite a common fire fighting method by the public for boats these days, especially using jet skis.
JBLiked by MouldBuilder and figtree7nts and
JB