I didn’t do a ballast calculation this time; just put it into the tank (1st photo). Discovered a couple of rather serious leaks. Fortunately they were visually apparent so after applying some epoxy all is well.
2nd photo. Except for around what will be an access hatch to the rudder post, deck framing complete & epoxied into place.
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I didn’t do a ballast calculation this time; just put it into the tank (1st photo). Discovered a couple of rather serious leaks. Fortunately they were visually apparent so after applying some epoxy all is well.
2nd photo. Except for around what will be an access hatch to the rudder post, deck framing complete & epoxied into place.
Hei Chum44,
Beforehand, you have balanced your torso with weights.
But when you mount the superstructure you have to align it again.
For this purpose, I advise you, from my experience, to align it with adhesive wheel balance weights.
Depending on whether other elements are installed, you can do this much more easily . .
Perfect:
My grandson works in the oldtimer car industry and supplies me with these lead blocks . . .
continued success, I look forward to your further successes . . 👍👍👍👍
Good crafting, landlubber Michel-C.
Thank you Mike; that is a good tip. Since I build everything above deck to be lightweight I usually only have to adjust by a few grams. It’s becoming difficult to find lead in most of the U.S. I have access to a great scrap bin from a marine machine shop so most, but not this one, have stainless steel ballast.
Where are you located in Switzerland? A couple of years ago my wife & I spent a month touring your country. Absolutely beautiful. The way the public transportation system works is very impressive.
Thank you Mike; that is a good tip. Since I build everything above deck to be lightweight I usually only have to adjust by a few grams. It’s becoming difficult to find lead in most of the U.S. I have access to a great scrap bin from a marine machine shop so most, but not this one, have stainless steel ballast.
Where are you located in Switzerland? A couple of years ago my wife & I spent a month touring your country. Absolutely beautiful. The way the public transportation system works is very impressive.
You're welcome, help where you can! As I was helped, so am I.
This website is a real treasure trove of ideas . . 👍👍👍👍
You asked me where I live? No problem.
We live in Rothenburg, a suburb of Lucerne, Lake Lucerne and the mountains. Actually, this is central Switzerland.
And if you open Google Maps and type in our pond name, you'll see a lot.
Name of the pond: Riffigweiher, 6020 Emmenbrücke, Switzerland
Have fun exploring . . .😉😉😉
Your Michel-C.
Mike, have you built one of the side wheel boats common on the lake?
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Hello Chum 444,
No, unfortunately not yet, but I have the plans for the Gallia, including frames and paddle wheels. First I have to overhaul all my ships that are waiting for a new life in the cellar.
If I'm still fit, that will be one of my last jobs.
Take a look in my harbour and you'll see who is eagerly awaiting a resurrection!
About the paddle steamer Gallia:
When you get to grips with this mechanism, you realise that our grandfathers were brilliant guys. Let's follow in their footsteps and we'll make it, even if it's sometimes a bit difficult to understand their thinking ... 😂😂😂😂😂
Your Michel-C.
One of the steam vessels we were on to explore the lake.(1st photo) Marvelous drive machinery for the paddle wheels.
2nd photo; the motor vessel we traveled on from Lucerne to Fluelen.
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One of the steam vessels we were on to explore the lake.(1st photo) Marvelous drive machinery for the paddle wheels.
2nd photo; the motor vessel we traveled on from Lucerne to Fluelen.
Just about everything below deck is complete. Tidy up the wiring & then come up for air.
All deck beams completed & epoxied into place; Photo1.
Photo 2- vertical strength member for aft towing bitt. It fits inside the bitt tube which will be filled with epoxy once fabricated & in place on the deck.
Photo 3- Time spent creating a cardboard template for the deck was well worth it. Proved that a two- piece deck would solve the bulwark tumblehome issue & confirmed that a decent enough fit between bulwarks & deck could be constructed & made watertight.
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Just about everything below deck is complete. Tidy up the wiring & then come up for air.
All deck beams completed & epoxied into place; Photo1.
Photo 2- vertical strength member for aft towing bitt. It fits inside the bitt tube which will be filled with epoxy once fabricated & in place on the deck.
Photo 3- Time spent creating a cardboard template for the deck was well worth it. Proved that a two- piece deck would solve the bulwark tumblehome issue & confirmed that a decent enough fit between bulwarks & deck could be constructed & made watertight.
Looking awfully nice Bill. I expect to see her at Scarborough. I might need to contract her services for the Beast.
Anytime you care to head Downeast, i have a spare snow shovel....😁
Jonathan
Thank you Jonathan. I hope Scarborough is a go next year, it’s always such a fun event. How much snow have you had? The night before the cold snap we had about 2 1/2” on Cape Cod; a wet snow per usual on the Cape. Overnight it turned into 2 1/2” of bulletproof ice. Last of it finally melted in today’s 55F temp. Took advantage of the warm wx to redo the botched waterline on THUNDER. Couple of photos tomorrow.
Happy New Year to you & everyone else on the site. May 2025 be one of health for all.
Bill
Thank you Jonathan. I hope Scarborough is a go next year, it’s always such a fun event. How much snow have you had? The night before the cold snap we had about 2 1/2” on Cape Cod; a wet snow per usual on the Cape. Overnight it turned into 2 1/2” of bulletproof ice. Last of it finally melted in today’s 55F temp. Took advantage of the warm wx to redo the botched waterline on THUNDER. Couple of photos tomorrow.
Happy New Year to you & everyone else on the site. May 2025 be one of health for all.
Took advantage of the anomalous warm wx yesterday to correct the waterline profile for the anti fouling bottom paint. Also roughed in the push knee & constructed the permanent stand. See Photo 1.
Photo 2 shows underlying deck colors that are the basis for deck weathering.
As a Cape Codder always does, I wonder what & when we will pay the price for the warm weather. ❄️❄️
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Took advantage of the anomalous warm wx yesterday to correct the waterline profile for the anti fouling bottom paint. Also roughed in the push knee & constructed the permanent stand. See Photo 1.
Photo 2 shows underlying deck colors that are the basis for deck weathering.
As a Cape Codder always does, I wonder what & when we will pay the price for the warm weather. ❄️❄️
🌧️⚡More structural work.
1st photo - Pilot hulls drilled thru hull & push knee. Final holes then drilled from push knee & through hull. 1/8” brass rods inserted & epoxied in place. Lateral forces should not be an issue.
2nd photo - Nozzle shoe constructed & trial fitted.
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🌧️⚡More structural work.
1st photo - Pilot hulls drilled thru hull & push knee. Final holes then drilled from push knee & through hull. 1/8” brass rods inserted & epoxied in place. Lateral forces should not be an issue.
2nd photo - Nozzle shoe constructed & trial fitted.
I’ve been devoting time to another build recently but decided to go back to THUNDER.
Photo 1: After mocking up in cardboard I transferred the template to 1/8” bass wood. Now the trick is to make the port side of the house identical in location, length, etc so that final result is pleasing to the eye.
Photo 2: Bulwark issues. I could not satisfactorily hide the weave of the glass cloth at the bulwarks. Besides they were not high enough as molded. Solution is to glue a strip of 1/16” thick ABS plastic around the bulwarks on the inboard side. Resolves two issues with one solution. 👍👍👍
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I’ve been devoting time to another build recently but decided to go back to THUNDER.
Photo 1: After mocking up in cardboard I transferred the template to 1/8” bass wood. Now the trick is to make the port side of the house identical in location, length, etc so that final result is pleasing to the eye.
Photo 2: Bulwark issues. I could not satisfactorily hide the weave of the glass cloth at the bulwarks. Besides they were not high enough as molded. Solution is to glue a strip of 1/16” thick ABS plastic around the bulwarks on the inboard side. Resolves two issues with one solution. 👍👍👍
First photo: Thought I was out of the bilge but realized I hadn’t provide any structural support for the quarter bitts.
Second photo: A rough mock-up but looks pretty good to my eye.
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Beforehand, you have balanced your torso with weights.
But when you mount the superstructure you have to align it again.
For this purpose, I advise you, from my experience, to align it with adhesive wheel balance weights.
Depending on whether other elements are installed, you can do this much more easily . .
Perfect:
My grandson works in the oldtimer car industry and supplies me with these lead blocks . . .
continued success, I look forward to your further successes . . 👍👍👍👍
Good crafting, landlubber Michel-C.