Stern Wheel Arms Assembly
1. The next step is to assemble the stern wheel arms A18 and A19.
2. Before gluing A18 to A19, ensure that the opening between the two A19 arms measures exactly 154 mm.
3. Once the correct spacing is confirmed, glue A18 in place.
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Cash;
Yes, that’s my goal with this build.
i actually started working on it the very first day I received the kit in the mail, but other commitments kept putting it on the back burner.
Now I’m finally free from building for someone else, and I can focus on building just for myself…at least until Juanita is paddling in the water.
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Superstructure Assembly
For the superstructure assembly, I received a great deal of guidance from Chuck, who was very helpful in putting this section together, as he was with many others, until communication was unfortunately interrupted due to internet restrictions in China.

The instruction drawings do not specify an assembly sequence, so after giving it some careful thought, this is the approach I followed. I began the assembly from the stern forward, starting with parts B10, B11, and B21.

I made an error when installing B20, as I initially did not laminate (double) the part. I later corrected this by tracing the original, cutting a replacement, and installing it afterward.

Part B16 should be reversed if you intend to open the door and display the interior. I chose not to show the interior and installed it as supplied, although opening the door would have been a nice added detail.

The yellow copy shown was marked by Chuck.
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Stairs: Lower Deck to Sundeck”Companionway”

Another component of the superstructure is the companionway stairs assembly connecting the lower deck to the sundeck. All of the stair components need to be painted prior to assembly. This is a three-color part and not an easy one to finish cleanly, especially along the edges of the treads

This stairway section also requires some trimming of the interlocking tabs in order to fit properly into the upper section of the superstructure.

1. First, let me show what is provided in the instruction drawings. I then added the back panel of the treads, setting it at the correct angle so it would mate properly with the upper deck. I assembled the treads on a flat surface to ensure they were all even and aligned.
2. This side represents the top portion that meets the sundeck. During dry fitting, the stairway assembly will slide into position, but the upper tabs require a slight angle in order to engage properly.
3. When dry fitting the stairway, I noticed that at the front—where the stairway assembly meets the forward structure—the rear tabs that interlock with the crossbeam prevented the stairs from sliding fully into place. The only solution I found was to carefully sand a small angle into the rear tabs so the assembly could be eased down into position.
4. The final photo shows the upper tabs sanded at a slight angle to facilitate insertion into the upper part of the structure. I’m not entirely sure how the designer intended this to be done, but this method works well and allows the stairs to seat correctly.
After I was satisfied with how the entire stair unit fit and how all of the tabs engaged, I set it aside for final gluing at a later stage.
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Pushing Heads / Knees Assembly
Another component that should be assembled separately is the set of 17 pieces that make up the pushing heads (knees). I recommend approaching this task in a relaxed manner, as it is time-consuming and requires patience.
First, I’ll show what is provided in the instruction drawings.
1. The treads include lasered markings that indicate the areas which must be sanded at an angle to achieve the correct fit.
2. All 17 individual pieces need to be painted separately. This is a very tedious and, at times, frustrating process, but it’s necessary to achieve a clean final result.
3. The final two photos show the completed, assembled units—those little buggers once they’re finally done. 😎

Pilothouse Assembly
While allowing the superstructure to dry, I used the time to begin construction of the pilothouse.
First, I’ll show the instruction drawings.
When it comes time to install the rounded corner pieces, keep in mind that the plastic corner parts are numbered on the inside and must be installed in their corresponding corners. Be sure to match them correctly before gluing.
The final photo shows the kit-provided markings on the pilothouse roof, which are intended to help position the items that will be added later in the building.

Great detail that the maker to in consideration.
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Pilothouse Control Console

The next step was the construction of the pilothouse control console and bench.
At this stage of the build, I had to make a decision: whether to build the kit-supplied console or attempt to replicate the actual console found on the real Juanita.
In the interest of simplicity and progress, I chose the more straightforward route and proceeded with the kit-provided control console.

In the last photo, you can also notice what appears to be a black anti-fatigue mat on the floor in front of the console—this is a small detail I added for authenticity.
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Superstructure Crossbeams – Continued

1. At this stage, I felt the structure needed additional support between B19 and B20+20, so I added a reinforcing bridge. This piece was carefully sized to sit perfectly flush on top, since any excess height would interfere with the sundeck above.

2. Before mounting the doors, I decided it would be a good idea to add rear backing support. As shown in one of the photos, this extra reinforcement helps keep everything rigid and prevents movement later on.

3. Next, I positioned the doors and windows. I made reference markings directly on the structure to ensure the correct orientation, especially to keep the door handles facing the proper direction.

4. When installing the window frames, I used a strip as a guide so all frames would be aligned and consistent. Later in the build, some of the very thin upper sections broke, so I reinforced them by adding a 1/16" square strip to the inside of each window opening. This greatly improved their strength without affecting appearance.
5.
The final photo shows the completed superstructure with primer applied. I never glue this assembly to the deck at this stage, as I prefer to paint it separately before permanently attaching it.

Note: You can also see the corner supports glued to the front of the structure. These are in place to receive the companionway unit later on, once the entire vessel has received its final finish.
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Attaching the Superstructure to the Hull

After sanding and priming to my satisfaction, I permanently glued the superstructure to the deck.
I used a few spare wooden wedges to ensure the structure made full contact with all sides of the hull while the glue cured.

As you can see in many of the photos, I use Lyman lead weights whenever I have the opportunity. Their flat shape and weight make them ideal for holding parts firmly in place without shifting during glue-up.
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Gluing Window Panes to the Window Frames
This was my first attempt at assembling the pilothouse window panes into their corresponding frames.
I initially used canopy glue, but I wasn’t satisfied with the final result. Too much dried glue was visible, and trying to remove it from the clear window panes turned into a tedious and honestly horrifying experience.
A fellow modeler then recommended Micro Metal Foil Adhesive. Unfortunately, after a few days of frustration—and more than a few nightmares—working with something that looks simple but is extremely difficult to execute cleanly, I knew I needed a different approach.
That’s when the light bulb went on. Since I work for a display company, I remembered that we regularly use Weld-On for many of our projects. I decided to give it a try—this time knowing I had to be completely calm and in full control. I applied it using a syringe fitted with a very fine needle, placing just a couple of drops at a time. The precision required was definitely nerve-racking.
For that, I relied on a proven nerve-calming formula: Glenlivet 18-Year-Old Scotch 🍷 😁 a very effective solution used by many modelers.