STERN COLORS

Now section is very tricky to paint because you will need to combine three colors: black for the bottom, grey and white for the top end.

First I will show you the pictures I gather from the real Juanita on the web, and then my vertion.
Lots of masking, waiting to dry to mask again for the other colors.
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FINAL STEPS TO COMPLETE THE STERN COMPONENTS
⚠️ Important warning:
There is not instructions from the builder for this section.

Do not glue the backsplash panel to the structure until the entire model has been painted.

Backsplash painting notes:
The backsplash must be painted in three colors: black, red, and white.
Allow all colors to fully dry before applying the decal.

Once the decal is in place, seal the entire backsplash.
I used semi-gloss throughout the model for consistency.

Steps for adding the backsplash:
The backsplash brackets come in four pieces.
There is only one correct way to assemble them.
Each bracket has two different sizes: one small and one larger—orientation matters.

When assembling the upper section of the brackets, do not glue them flush on top.
Only the thin outer portion of the bracket fits into the backsplash slot.
This stepped design exists because the monkey rudder mechanism cable tube passes through the bottom of the brackets.
This detail is not clearly shown in the instructions, so take note.

Once this was understood, the backsplash could be glued to the structure correctly.
Painting reality check:
Painting the backsplash was extremely challenging.
The red paint wrinkled repeatedly, forcing me to strip and repaint the entire part multiple times.
It took several attempts before I finally got it right.
Patience is definitely required for this step—but the end result is worth it.
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THE GOOSE NECK VENTILATORS
This is another part of the build that gave me a bit of a headache.

Step 1 – Check the blueprints
First, take a look at the blueprints.

As shown, there should be:
Two short goose necks
One long goose neck (marked in red)
Five very short vents (marked in black)

Step 2 – Identify the kit issue
My kit came with six long goose necks.
The short goose necks were missing.

Step 3 – Try to resolve the issue
I attempted to contact Chuck about the missing parts.
Unfortunately, that was my last contact with him due to internet restrictions in China.

Step 4 – Make replacement parts
Given the situation, the best solution was to fabricate my own goose neck vents.
Here they are, made to match the blueprint dimensions.

Step 5 – Additional details discovered
While studying reference photos online, I noticed an extra detail not shown in the plans.

On the starboard side, there is:
One small gray straight pipe, and
One additional small goose neck vent (as seen in photo #8)

Step 6 – Replicate the missing details
I went ahead and made both parts to match what I observed in the reference images.

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PILOTHOUSE ACCESS PLATFORM

The kit instructions include one drawing and a four-step photo sequence, both of which are very helpful for assembling this platform.

1. I first tape the rung sides with the indentations facing inward to make sure nothing shifts during gluing.

2. Next, I tape the rungs in place so everything stays aligned.

3. I use a small square scrap of wood as a guide to keep all the rungs perfectly square.
This ensures the rungs line up correctly and match the opposite side exactly.

4.After a test fit beside the pilothouse, I apply the final colors.
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CONNECTING THE CATWALK TO THE KNEES AND RAILINGS

Be prepared to do a lot of soldering in this section. I had to make several jigs to get everything aligned correctly.

CATWALK PREPARATION

1. Add styrene to the catwalk sides
Glue two pieces of .030" styrene to both sides of the catwalk.
I don’t believe the kit includes enough styrene to complete this step, so plan accordingly.

2. Add styrene to the facial / sundeck edges
This is a good time to add styrene strips to the sundeck edges.
I used thicker styrene here because, to my eye, it looks more appealing.

3. Paint the catwalk
Start by painting the grills silver.
Once dry, mask the center using Scotch tape (in my opinion, one of the best masking tapes—it doesn’t allow paint bleed).
Paint the sides and ends black.

RAILING AND STRUCTURAL CONSIDERATION.
4. Start on the catwalk railings
With the catwalk finished, move on to the railings.
Be ready for a lot of soldering in this step.

5. Kit instruction method (did not work for me)
According to the instructions, you are supposed to:
a) Solder the top railings as one piece
b) Cut and add the curved connection
c) Build the bottom knee rails separately (see pictures #6 and #7)
This approach did not work for me.
The result was bulky and unattractive, and I ended up discarding a full day’s work.

6. Important reminder before proceeding
The catwalk assembly must be free-standing.
It cannot be attached to the sundeck because the sundeck is removable to allow access to the electronics.

MY SOLUTION

7. Create a proper railing base
To fix the bulky look, I created a base using:
A small .010" brass strip, and
A larger-diameter brass tube to accept the railing posts
This allowed the railings to seat cleanly (see picture #9).

8. Assemble the railing as a single unit
Using this method, I was able to assemble the three railing sections into one clean, unified structure, as shown in picture #10.

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SUNDECK MAIN RAILINGS

This section took me almost a week to complete.

One positive note is that the kit includes several laser-marked jigs, which are very helpful for soldering the railings. To make things even easier, I also made a custom balsa jig to help form the required corner curves.

After completing all the railings, I noticed that the railings located under the pilothouse access platform had angled bottom braces (see photo #9). Since these braces were visible in reference photos, I went ahead and added them.

Another correction I had to address was the positioning of the railing holes provided in the kit. Under the access platform, I had to drill one additional hole to allow the railings to be installed properly.

LESSONS LEARNED

a. Allow plenty of time for this section—complex railings are not a one-session job.
B. Take advantage of the laser-marked jigs, but don’t hesitate to make custom jigs when curves or angles get tricky.
C. Always compare the kit parts to reference photos; small details like angled braces can be easy to miss.
D. Test-fit the railings early to catch hole alignment issues before final soldering.
E. Be prepared to add or adjust holes where necessary for a proper fit.
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By the way, the two side winch heads at port and starboard must be installed with the larger slanted face oriented toward the bow.

I point this out because I installed them incorrectly the first time and had to remove and re-glue them.

SAFETY CHAIN STANCHIONS

There are four safety chain stanchions in total (see picture #2).
Their purpose is to support safety chains acting as temporary or semi-permanent guardrails along deck edges, walkways, and platforms.

From a construction standpoint, special attention must be given to how these stanchions are attached to the sundeck. The sundeck must be removable to allow access to the internal electronics, which means the stanchions are exposed to repeated handling stresses during removal and reinstallation.
A weak attachment method will almost certainly lead to bending, loosening, or complete failure over time.

To increase strength and stability, I added small rectangular base plates to the bottom of each stanchion. These
bases increase the bonding surface area and improve resistance to lateral loads.

Because the bases needed to be extremely small and consistent, I fabricated a simple wooden soldering jig to ensure uniform alignment and repeatability during assembly.

While this may not be the only solution, it provides sufficient mechanical strength and clean alignment, and I’m satisfied with the final result.
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Mike, “perfect youngster” made my day!
Trust me, the joints don’t agree with that description anymore 😄
Thanks for the kind words.
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STERN TOWING MAST

After extensive research and reviewing the information available online, I concluded that Juanita is fitted with a stern towing light mast.

White light on top → the stern light, configured as an all-round or stern-facing white light depending on operational requirements.

Two yellow (amber) lights arranged vertically → towing lights in accordance with the Inland Navigation Rules, indicating a vessel engaged in towing or pushing operations.

The mast’s sole purpose is to elevate and properly separate the navigation and towing lights so they remain clearly visible and compliant with regulatory requirements.

This is how I scratch-built the mast.
All that remains is to reduce to scale and hand-paint the Virginia State flag visible in the reference photo.
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LITTLE WHITE AND RED CHAIR

I’m almost finished completing all the loose deck and sundeck fittings.
One small detail that caught my attention on the real Juanita was a little white and red chair positioned in front of the main structure.
Naturally, I had to build one.

What I did not anticipate was that it would take an entire week—and several failed attempts consigned to the scrap bin—before I finally worked out the correct sequence for soldering such a tiny chair.

The process required the use of multiple custom balsa jigs to maintain alignment and consistency during soldering. At this scale, alignment, heat control, and the order of assembly are absolutely critical.

The slightest excess of solder or even minimal movement during heating becomes immediately apparent.

My first attempt at painting was done with a brush, but it left very noticeable brush marks that were unacceptable at this scale.
I ended up stripping the paint completely and refinishing the chairs using an airbrush.

For the red detailing, careful masking was required—and yes, I had to use my jeweller’s glasses to see what I was doing. The final outcome, however, was well worth the extra effort.

In many ways, it became a true shokunin experience — a lesson in patience, repetition, and craftsmanship, where improvement only comes through persistence and attention to the smallest details.

Below is the photo sequence showing how I successfully soldered a 3/4" high chair using 1/16" brass rod.
Hopefully, this sequence may help anyone attempting similar miniature brass fabrications.

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