Maybe I do a cup holder also. 😜
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VERTICAL ACCESS LATTER –
Mounted Aft of the Pilothouse for Roof and Equipment Access.

To create this ladder, the kit fortunately includes a soldering jig, which I followed precisely. However, during final fitting, I discovered that the overall geometry produced by the jig is not entirely accurate.

After reviewing and giving the ladder my final approval, I identified an issue that is not related to workmanship, but rather to the dimensions established by the supplied jig.

Also, in the first picture you will notice a bracket extending from the back of the pilothouse that supports and locates the ladder.

This bracket plays a critical role in maintaining correct alignment and spacing between the ladder and the pilothouse structure, and its position further highlights the dimensional discrepancy created by the kit jig.

On the real vessel, the cross brackets are positioned just above the fourth rung from the bottom. With the kit geometry as supplied, that alignment cannot be achieved correctly.

CORRECTIVE MODIFICATION
To address this kit-related dimensional issue, I added an extension to the bottom of the ladder.
Below are the steps I followed, which you may wish to replicate:
1. Cut away approximately half of the lower section of the ladder assembly.
2. Insert a coupling tube into the lower end of the ladder assembly, applying a small amount of CA glue only to the bottom of the tenons.
3. Once the coupling tube is secured, insert the extension piece.

This modification provides a longer and significantly stronger deck anchorage.
As shown in the final photograph, the extension is barely noticeable and results in a very secure attachment.

Important Note Regarding the Ladder Brackets
When trimming the ladder support brackets to their final length, ensure that they are long enough to be properly inserted into the pilothouse wall.
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I would like to dedicate this post to the many extraordinary modelers on this forum (you know who you are) who take particular pleasure in one of the most intricate aspects of our hobby — restorations.

I always enjoy seeing your new projects and recent finds. No matter how poor the condition of the model when you acquire it, you somehow manage to bring it back to life — often better than it ever was.

So, here are my two penn’orth.
At present, I work part-time in retirement for Creative Displays, a Miami-based exhibition display company. We design and build custom show booths for a wide range of businesses to showcase their products at trade events.

In the photo, you’ll see a table filled with various scale models belonging to different yacht companies we work with. My role is within the Art and Graphics department, where I handle signage and graphic production — printing, laminating, and applying graphics to the many different substrates used throughout the stands.
You’ll also notice my own sloop displayed alongside several of our clients’ models.

And yes… that’s me about ten years ago.
One of the models shown had arrived to us nearly destroyed during shipping. Bringing it back to its original condition proved both challenging and deeply rewarding. It remains one of those restorations I look back on with a quiet sense of pride.
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So, after I took many precautions and sprayed the red decanted color and waited 48 hours, it was time to take the final step and that is applying the clear coat.

After the two-day curing period of the red paint, I applied the final clear coat using Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic. I used the same method as with the color coat: a light mist coat first, followed by progressively wetter coats with drying time between them.

Sooo....
CLEAR ALSO WRINKLED.

Im glad I don't own a gun or I have shooted the damed thing.
Now I tried a different approach, I used this recently acquired wet sand papers from Amazone.

I wet sanded the surface starting with 800 grit, then moved to 1000, followed by 2000, and finally finished with 3000 grit.

Once I could see that the wrinkled finish was completely gone and the surface was nice and smooth again, I moved on to polishing.

For that I used my XMT Series polishing compounds, working backwards from #4 down to #1, gradually bringing the shine back to the surface. After that, I applied a final coat of Best of Show Wax to give it that last bit of depth and gloss.
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Tomorrow the video I uploaded to YouTube should be ready. It shows all the different colours that were needed to paint the stern and the back splash.

Custom Catwalk Support:

While finishing the deck details I managed to damage the catwalk, mainly because I followed the kit instructions and built it as a free-standing unit.

In practice that’s not a very good idea. When the model goes to the lake it becomes one more fragile part to worry about, since the entire catwalk pivots on a single small brace attached to the knee.

So I decided to add something that is not present on the real Juanita: catwalk support columns.

My plan is to install two columns at the outer edge so the whole assembly is not hanging only from that single pivot point. This should make the structure much stronger and eliminate a potential weak spot during transport and handling.

Once the columns are in place, I’m also thinking of adding a couple of hooks to them so I can hang some coiled ropes there. Besides looking good, it will help disguise the supports and add a bit more “working boat” character to the stern.

In the end it should make the platform look more natural and balanced… and at the same time give me a place to hang some serious looking ship lines.
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Hanging Ropes

I decided to give the rope coils a try. I ended up making a few, and I have to admit they came out better than I expected.

Here’s the simple method I used:

1. I wrapped the rope with 12 turns around a BBQ lighter to get consistent loops.
2. Slipped the coil off and tied it near the top with a short piece of the same line.
3. Then I soaked the whole thing in diluted white glue to hold the shape.
4. After it dried, I trimmed the ends and shaped the coil.

Simple little detail, but it really adds some life to the working deck.
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MOTOR / SHAFT ASSEMBLY

Well guys, since my last entry I’ve done quite a bit of work.

Before I show the progress, I’d like to ask—how many of us here actually bought “Chuck’s” 1/24 Juanita?

We all remember his promotion here and how helpful he was on the forum. Then all of a sudden he disappeared. As far as I understand, since he lives in China, he can no longer access or communicate with us.

I’ll repeat what I mentioned before: I bought one of his first-edition kits, and he clearly said there was no time to prepare written instructions—he just wanted to get the model released. So all we got were photos.

That means we’re relying on pure wit, a lot of thinking, and sometimes making decisions that lead to doing things twice.

That’s exactly why I’m posting this build—if someone else is struggling, maybe this will help.

That was certainly the case for me when assembling the motor.

Here’s what worked best:

1. Initial shaft alignment
In the first picture, you can see most of the parts needed.
Start by inserting the shaft through the right and left E2-18 supports. Install it inside the hull structure and make sure it spins freely.
Believe me, this is not as simple as it sounds—any slight misalignment will cause binding.

2. Install the main pulley
(Picture #1)
Insert the metal pulley along with the drive belt.

3. Build up the motor mount assembly
(Picture #3and 4)
Add E2-4 (small) next to the pulley.
Then install the motor plate.
Next, add E2-3 (larger) on the opposite side of the motor plate.
Finally, slide on a shaft collar.

⚠️ Very important: keep all these components tight against each other so the motor doesn’t wobble.

4. Set belt tension and alignment
(Picture #6)
The motor plate MUST sit centered in the hull frame for proper balance.
Once everything is in place, loosen the starboard shaft collar and slide the assembly out slightly. This allows you to pull the motor and set proper belt tension.
5. Final assembly
Slide everything back into position.
Tighten the starboard shaft collar, and finally install the starboard small pulley. (picture #7)

It should look like this. (picture #8)

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This is a question that I need help with.

I know most of you guys have a lot more experience than I do with R/C electronics, so I’d really appreciate your input.

What diesel sound module would you recommend for a model like this?
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ASSEMBLING THE STEERING SERVOS

For both the aft rudder and the monkey rudders, I used SMRAZA S51 9g servos.

The servo housing (E2-12) is supplied with the kit and already has the correct bottom angle to match the hull, which makes installation easier.
Here is the process I followed:

Step 1 – Preparing the servo and main gear

The E2-16 cog needs to be adapted to fit the servo output shaft.
To do this, reshape the servo arm so it fits snugly inside the cog.
Nothing complicated here—just take your time and test fit as you go.

Step 2 – Modifying the carrier arm
The carrier arm was too thick underneath where the linkage hardware goes.
I had to carefully grind down that area so the small black nut could be properly installed.

Step 3 – Installing the servo in the housing
Once the modifications were done, install the servo into the E2-12 housing.
Make sure everything sits flush and the servo is firmly secured.

Step 4 – Positioning the servo assembly
Glue the E2-12 housing in place, positioning it right in the middle of the bottom frame, aligned with the motor plate.
This helps keep everything balanced and the linkage geometry correct.

Step 5 – Monkey rudder servo adjustment
For the monkey rudders, I had to raise the servo slightly using scrap wood.
This was necessary to achieve a straight and clean alignment between the servo linkage and the rudder horns.

Step 6 – Final check
Before finalizing everything:
Make sure the linkage moves freely
Check that there is no binding
Confirm both rudders respond evenly
This setup took a bit of tweaking, but in the end it works smoothly and gives good control.

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