This is the cabin which is just about about ready for filler, sanding, window and door glazing and Primer. The build has given me some experience and a bit of confidence for the rest of the build. My excitement grows!

By the way - it seems there are no local boat modelling clubs near me, so today I placed a community ad looking for prospective modellers. Should be interesting to see what I catch.

Got all the parts for the keel cut and sanded up so thought I would glue up a bit of it. Well, a bit turned out to be more than a bit, now I await the stuffing box which I will smear with epoxy and slide into the 14” (5mm) slot. Over the next few days I will drill out the weight lightening holes In the frames, sand them and notch for the sheer clamps and keel. The Project is coming along way better than I had anticipated...wonder when I will run up against a brick wall.
Being new to boat building ans powering them up, I will be looking for advice on electrical power - lead-acid, gell cell or LiPo.

UPDATE
Just couldn't hold off...just HAD to mount that inner transom. Funny thing, though - the notches for the sheer clamps were not marked on the plan. Out comes my rotozip if I can ever get it bk from my son.

Having made the Hull formers And the Keel, I have done some thinking about Material for stringers, deck opening framing, deck and hull planking. Checking my local building supplies dealer, I came across a couple of pieces of yellow Cedar Fence board without a knot in it. Digging out my trusty old tablesaw, I wanted to find out if it Would be up to the task of ripping planking. I can rip a 1/8” plank with ease if I take my time. The fence board is only 5/8” thick so my planks will be 1/8 X 5/8. Actually, I may rip them a bit on the thick size then run them through my DIY thickness sander. That will take care of any irregularities.

Added the sheer clamps this morning after attaching the port and starboard temporary form alignment timbers. They are the wide timbers at the top of the formers. Having no suitable clamping devices, I made my own - with flat waxed nylon lacing twine. Not pretty, but it works and holds parts together nice and tight. Used the same tying method for the sheers.

Next, will install the deck opening material, then the decking. Fairing of the outside will be next followed by ny first attempt at planking. By the way - cedar bends quite nicely if soaked in hot water for a bit.

When planking, should it begin at the keel and finish at the sheer or vice versa?

Its been a few days since any work was done on the NAXOS. I HAD TO TAKE MY granddaughter to Halifax, Nova Scotia to the IWK Hospital. Her plastic surgeon wanted to check her progress after having reconstructive surgery a year ago after a double mastectomy about two years ago. We then continued to my childhood town of Yarmouth Nova scotia where we spent six great days. It was good to see friends and what is left of my family.

Since being back, I got to work on my “baby” fixing things that needed attention prior to the planking process. I think I whipped her into shape, so will begin planking her.
Hopefully someone will tell me how to. Treat her inside once I finish planking.
My idea is to mix up a batch of fibreglass resin and give it to her. Do I need to apply cloth along the keel and formers? I hear that water and the glue I am using (carpenters yellow glue) and water are not a good mix should there be a leak. It would not be good to see planks popping off during the maiden sail.
Once the hull is planked, I plan on another coat of resin on the outside and then the painting. What is a good paint to use?

Anyway, heres a few pics showing how she looks now.

more work today on the NAXOS. Finished the planking from the deckline to the gunwale. Waiting for glue to dry then sanding, sanding. Kind of proud of my work so far and except for a few fixes below the waterline, I think that at long last my dream of an RC boat may be a reality.
Very interesting project and enjoying every second of work. Very time consuming and I am being as fussy as I can to make her look good.
Right, wrong or indifferent, I found that my roll of waxed nylon lacing twine is my version of clamps which hold the planking joints together nice and tight. The odd C clamp doesnt hurt as well.

Until next time.......

I am wondering if there is an alternative to fibreglass resin To sealing the interior of the hull. The resin is very messy and as far as I know, anything that is used to apply the stuff is like a Bic pen - you throw it away when done. I shouldnt be so fussy, but can’t help it,its my nature

This seems to be the toughest part - tapering planks. Have read about this and watched several videos, but don't quite get it...using my own meager skills to do it the best I can. Will work it out.

More work on my girl today. Happy that I chose this model for my build. It has been challenging, enjoyable and a learning experience. My tool supply for model building is very, very scarce, so make do with what I do have.
The front view indicates that the cabin is not straight, but thats because it is just Precariously sitting on the carlings For the photo shoot.
Will I ever build another model? Sure hope so, but none will compare to this, my very first.

Well, today I began the task of planking the bottom - doing it the way that I have chosen. Right or wrong. It will require a number of wedge fillers ( forget what the technical term is) but to my untrained eye, looks kike it will work out OK.
The planks I have are cut from a 5 ft cedar fenceboard and therefore not long enough to make two out of one. I am putting the join where there is least amount of pressure grom bending.
Sure wish I had chosen cyanno glue thereby eliminating the need for clamping and waiting for the glue I am using to set up. Oh well .... live and learn.