'j' class destroyer 1/72

Started by hydroman

21 updates 1 like 50 comments

'j' class destroyer 1/72

this is the contents of the box, comes with one propshaft & rudder but will not use the single shaft as I will be fitting two of my own.
no fittings at all so will have to find them as no-one makes fittings for this particular kit.

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'j' class destroyer 1/72

the main section of the hull is made from 6mm x 6 inch x 34 inch 5 ply sides and bottom, with 6mm 5 ply formers.
this will make the access to radio,battery,motors very easy as the opening is 34 inches long x 6 inches wide with all the superstructure fixed on top of the hatch.

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'j' class destroyer 1/72 scale,hull build

after fitting 12mm x 34 inch balsa strip to bottom outside edge to allow profiling later I glued in alternate pieces of block to the bow,10 in all from 12mm to 25mm thick, one on top of the other either side of the bow former.

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stern balsa blocks In place

the stern is built up in the same way as the bow but the middle block (50mm thick) has the inside cut away to form the passageway for the rudder post and 12 inch carbon fiber rod with adjustable clevises for rudder control.when dry the 1.5mm ply deck can be glued on top of the last 12mm block.
3 comments
  1. Dave M
    Vice Admiral
    Just seen your earlier post. You appear to have already completed a model of the Javelin. is this a new model?
  2. hydroman
    Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class
    hello dave, no matey its the same one. I thought people may be interested in how I built it, I know I should have posted the build as I was doing it but wanted to get the build done,then if I was happy with the result I would post the build.
    thanks for the offer of drawings of super detailing,if I had posted the build as it was being built I would have taken up your offer, ah well maybe I will do another some time.
    thanks again......mark b.......

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inside the stern...1/72 destroyer

as you can see I should have posted this pic before the last one but it shows how the block and hollow 50mm stern piece make up the passage for the control rod
4 comments
  1. hydroman
    Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class
    hello gregg, for the hull ply and balsa block I used gator glue, it has a foaming action which really grabs hold and holds on,but you have to be carefull or you will end up with more foam than boat !!! ha ha.
    once it hardens it is easy to cut away but on the bow and stern blocks I used DUO water resistant 2 in 1 on the outside of the joints and GATOR glue on the inside.side by side they make a indestructable waterproof joint.
    regards.....mark b
  2. hydroman
    Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class
    hello larry, yes I got it from e-bay, its from kit-shack and its the largest they do, the 'plans' are very very basic.all the parts are cnc cut and are superbly done.
    regards....mark b

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props,shafts and motor mount

I fitted two 10 inch stainless steel shafts m4 threaded both ends with 50mm props, the kit says to use 450 motors (standard) but I will use 540hs motors with added motor can to increase torque.the mounts have been fixed to a 't' hardwood mount bottom to bottom so to speak so I can get the motors as low down as possible to help stability...
7 comments
  1. Dave M
    Vice Admiral
    Thanks mark
    Always knew that box of old motors would come in useful. 😀 Must remember to keep my eyes peeled when visiting car boot sales - they always seem to have discarded electrical bits.
  2. hydroman
    Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class
    true,and before I throw anthing away I allways strip it down for bits and pieces,you never know when you might need them.

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funnel block sanding

the funnel in the kit is a solid balsa block so I cut 2 1.5mm ply plates shaped to the profile of the funnel and glued one on each end which enabled me to sand the soft block to shape

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funnel finishing

I drilled into both ends of the funnel and cut away the ply plate to leave a 4mm rim so I could get a 1 inch chisel inside to hollow it out.
finishing off with a 1/2 inch chisel so the funnel wall was around 4mm thick, then glued on the base and follow the hole in the funnel down when dry,then I glued a piece of 5mm balsa across the top of the funnel,cut out the hole and light sanded it to leave it slightly proud of the funnel surface
2 comments
  1. Gregg
    Sub-Lieutenant
    It took me 2 weeks to finally profile the funnel on my Sun tug, that was made up of 6 pieces of wood too! A lot of hard work, but yours looks well worth all the effort .
    incidentally, any thoughts on a smoke generator for full effect perhaps?
  2. hydroman
    Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class
    hello steve, yes I have thought of getting a 12v smoke generator but have not used them before and are wondering if they produce enough smoke to be seen from a distance, if I remember right you have one in your sun tug, are they worth buying ? can you recommend one ? all help very much appreciated......regards.....mark b

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hull & torpedo tubes

The stern and bow need to be profiled,also started the torpedo tubes which are just 8mm dowels.

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all of the superstructure Is fixed to access hatch!!!!

unfortunately I have lost a lot of the building photo's but have still got some left.
the access to rc gear is 34 inches long and all of the superstructure Ie bridge,funnel,pom pom deck,aux steering deck,aft gun deck is secured to it, its not my plan to have 'moving' guns because I have done this before and from a distance you can't see them move very well so I won't bother. besides I have only a spektrum dx3s 3 channel 2.4ghz transmitter and will use the third channel to activate the 'woop woop' attack alarm that I purchased from e-bay.

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