I was intending to tint the windows as per my original boat ( was fitted with 5mm tinted acrylic) and as the local car accessory store was having a sale on some car window tints, I thought I might as well buy some. I bought a roll of 35% ( scale works backwards for tints for some strange reason, ie 35% is lighter than 6%) for $31 for the 3m x 760mm roll.
I had cut the windows from some .75mm PETG sheet (which I had left over from trying out canopy moulding with my vacuum former) and applied the tint to the inside face after removing one side of the protective coating on the PETG (won't remove the other side till fitting to avoid scratching as the PETG is quite soft - same material as used in drink bottles, packaging, 3D printers etc). Would have bought .5mm PETG but it is not available in NZ in that thickness, - would have had to special order it through the plastics co here from China. Very handy stuff, very clear (same as acetate sheet) and almost indestructible and cheap ($53 at the time for 1220 x 2440 sheet)
Tint seemed to go on ok but will know how well once the covering is removed. As long as it doesn't come off once windows are bent into position. I have also filled primed and painted the hull which will be checked tomorrow to see if it needs any further 'love'. I tend not to get too carried away with finish, as almost every boat, wood, glass or alloy has dozens of dents scrapes and lumps, (unless brand new) and it's not going in a museum. Besides, the subject boat in question would be about 38 years old by now and has probably been used as firewood😁
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I was intending to tint the windows as per my original boat ( was fitted with 5mm tinted acrylic) and as the local car accessory store was having a sale on some car window tints, I thought I might as well buy some. I bought a roll of 35% ( scale works backwards for tints for some strange reason, ie 35% is lighter than 6%) for $31 for the 3m x 760mm roll.
I had cut the windows from some .75mm PETG sheet (which I had left over from trying out canopy moulding with my vacuum former) and applied the tint to the inside face after removing one side of the protective coating on the PETG (won't remove the other side till fitting to avoid scratching as the PETG is quite soft - same material as used in drink bottles, packaging, 3D printers etc). Would have bought .5mm PETG but it is not available in NZ in that thickness, - would have had to special order it through the plastics co here from China. Very handy stuff, very clear (same as acetate sheet) and almost indestructible and cheap ($53 at the time for 1220 x 2440 sheet)
Tint seemed to go on ok but will know how well once the covering is removed. As long as it doesn't come off once windows are bent into position. I have also filled primed and painted the hull which will be checked tomorrow to see if it needs any further 'love'. I tend not to get too carried away with finish, as almost every boat, wood, glass or alloy has dozens of dents scrapes and lumps, (unless brand new) and it's not going in a museum. Besides, the subject boat in question would be about 38 years old by now and has probably been used as firewood😁
Hi Rob, seems to have stuck ok but have a number of tiny bubbles I couldn't get rid of, even with the detergent mist. Not too worried as the effect will be ok in SWO (stand way off scale)😁 It may have been old stock being on sale or perhaps it didn't like the PETG? who knows?. I've done it on acetate sheet for planes with no probs before. I was stuck with .75 as it's really hard to find acetate sheet these days, as the main hobby shop (Airsail) has gone now, and they were the main source as they did Vac forming canopies etc (their own brand and to your own mould). The .75 was a bit thick and was hard to get fitting nicely but will do for now and it has little 'waving'. Whole boat is an experiment with the jet unit and its' mods etc, and partially copying the full sized boats cabin structure etc. Film looks great on your pilot boat!,- the film on mine is on the inside .
JB
Windows now fitted, along with the cabin side 'flashes'. Hull has been faired, primed and then topcoated in white acrylic. Bottom and deck will be a medium blue as per original. Still have lights and grab rails etc to make for cabin, along with more internal trim.
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Windows now fitted, along with the cabin side 'flashes'. Hull has been faired, primed and then topcoated in white acrylic. Bottom and deck will be a medium blue as per original. Still have lights and grab rails etc to make for cabin, along with more internal trim.
Decided to make a start on the flooring, so have now removed the temporary frames and 'spine' to work on that. If I can work it right, a lot of the partitions will be built on the floors and be removable as units.
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Decided to make a start on the flooring, so have now removed the temporary frames and 'spine' to work on that. If I can work it right, a lot of the partitions will be built on the floors and be removable as units.
Got a bit sick of woodwork so got onto a side metalwork project (will post later if some bits arrive) That done I have done a little bit more internal woodwork and made the 4 partitions, -port side for cooker and sink bench, stbd for portaloo (a necessity for when mermaids are aboard😁) and storage. Made the helm station and covered it with 1mm ply (leaving the top unglued for 'instrument' fitting) Also made a wheel from brass rod which will have a mahogany spoke covering (as original wheel)
The 4 partitions are trimmed with basswood which will be varnished and the partitions painted. Also painted the bottom with a colour as close to the original as poss, by mixing acrylic paints from spray 2 cans (light blue and black) and spraying on using a touch-up gun, as the original Epiglass (now similar to international Lauderdale blue) colour is not acrylic. Bunks are next on the list and deck painting (may glass the deck first)
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Got a bit sick of woodwork so got onto a side metalwork project (will post later if some bits arrive) That done I have done a little bit more internal woodwork and made the 4 partitions, -port side for cooker and sink bench, stbd for portaloo (a necessity for when mermaids are aboard😁) and storage. Made the helm station and covered it with 1mm ply (leaving the top unglued for 'instrument' fitting) Also made a wheel from brass rod which will have a mahogany spoke covering (as original wheel)
The 4 partitions are trimmed with basswood which will be varnished and the partitions painted. Also painted the bottom with a colour as close to the original as poss, by mixing acrylic paints from spray 2 cans (light blue and black) and spraying on using a touch-up gun, as the original Epiglass (now similar to international Lauderdale blue) colour is not acrylic. Bunks are next on the list and deck painting (may glass the deck first)
Painted the partitions and floors and stained the trim on the partitions and helm station (first coat). Trimmed the wheel spokes with mahogany as well. Painted the deck and applied some non skid patches, (doped embossed heavy black art paper). Added a top transom rubbing strake. Before painting the deck I doped on some fine glass/paper finishing material I found in one of my plans boxes (didn't know I had it,- must be from the 70s) and primer/fillered it. Once painted it came out with a bit of a non skid look. I have also started the frames/boxes for the rear seats/bunks. Lots to do still.
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Painted the partitions and floors and stained the trim on the partitions and helm station (first coat). Trimmed the wheel spokes with mahogany as well. Painted the deck and applied some non skid patches, (doped embossed heavy black art paper). Added a top transom rubbing strake. Before painting the deck I doped on some fine glass/paper finishing material I found in one of my plans boxes (didn't know I had it,- must be from the 70s) and primer/fillered it. Once painted it came out with a bit of a non skid look. I have also started the frames/boxes for the rear seats/bunks. Lots to do still.
Hi pete, once all the other bits are on, (toe rails, grab rails, lights etc ) it will probably break the colour up a bit,- probably just a bit plain at the moment. On the original boat, I attached the tinted perspex windows to the exterior with a few hundred 3mm c/s brass screws with acorn nuts on the inside, and put a 1/4" gold pinstripe over them around the windows, which probably made them stand out a bit more. Unfortunately too difficult to copy to a model so fitted them inside instead,- not quite as effective, so the deck colour catches the eye more at the moment.
JB
More bits done. Made the galley sink, faucet and cooktop. Sink was made from the wooden top of a cane reed room fragrance bottle and cooker top grille from brass rod- soldered, with 3mm machine screws for burners and control knobs. Cooker body from balsa. Faucet made from brass rod with a 3mm machine screw tap. Rear deck is made to be removable for access to servos if necessary. Deck is dropped in and locked backwards under beam.
Heaps to go yet.
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More bits done. Made the galley sink, faucet and cooktop. Sink was made from the wooden top of a cane reed room fragrance bottle and cooker top grille from brass rod- soldered, with 3mm machine screws for burners and control knobs. Cooker body from balsa. Faucet made from brass rod with a 3mm machine screw tap. Rear deck is made to be removable for access to servos if necessary. Deck is dropped in and locked backwards under beam.
Re - I expect no less than an a mini propane tank for the cooker
Hi Doug, believe it or not the thought crossed my mind, but then I thought the boat would probably catch fire (being made of very flammable materials)😁 I did think of flickering LEDs which might be safer😊 American water taps Doug, am I missing something or am I just slow?😀
JB
Got sick of looking at the hole in the cabin roof, so decided to fill it in with the sliding hatch.
Hatch is made from 1mm ply with basswood frames. The runners are 1.5 x 1.5mm basswood glued to 1.5 x 5mm basswood uprights on the cabin top and the hatch has a corresponding 'underhook' with 3mm basswood sides and 'hook' of 1.5 x 5mm basswood, ( on the full sized boat I used 40 x 5mm formica sail battens cut down for the runners). The end plates of the hatch are filed out to fit the runners.
Everything was sealed with dope, primer/fillered and sprayed with white acrylic. Not the prettiest job, but was trying to do that as well as replacing the steering rack boots on my old Toyota Carolla liftback, (early birthday present, it's 32 in Dec😁) CV boot's next on the list😐,-mind you they've lasted 32yrs and 215,000km (along with the clutch which is still good) so mustn't grumble😁. Only use it as a spare but haven't the heart to part with it, as it's only cost around $1.50 a week in repairs over 17 yrs and still runs perfectly.😀 It's a manual, carbureted and with Armstrong window winders and no computer, so can't be hacked by Russians😂.
Received my waterproof booties for the jet unit pushrods from Banggood, plus a nice 17kg JX 180deg digital servo to try as a sail winch in my Graupner Optimist yacht, which hopefully I'll get back to after this model.
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Got sick of looking at the hole in the cabin roof, so decided to fill it in with the sliding hatch.
Hatch is made from 1mm ply with basswood frames. The runners are 1.5 x 1.5mm basswood glued to 1.5 x 5mm basswood uprights on the cabin top and the hatch has a corresponding 'underhook' with 3mm basswood sides and 'hook' of 1.5 x 5mm basswood, ( on the full sized boat I used 40 x 5mm formica sail battens cut down for the runners). The end plates of the hatch are filed out to fit the runners.
Everything was sealed with dope, primer/fillered and sprayed with white acrylic. Not the prettiest job, but was trying to do that as well as replacing the steering rack boots on my old Toyota Carolla liftback, (early birthday present, it's 32 in Dec😁) CV boot's next on the list😐,-mind you they've lasted 32yrs and 215,000km (along with the clutch which is still good) so mustn't grumble😁. Only use it as a spare but haven't the heart to part with it, as it's only cost around $1.50 a week in repairs over 17 yrs and still runs perfectly.😀 It's a manual, carbureted and with Armstrong window winders and no computer, so can't be hacked by Russians😂.
Received my waterproof booties for the jet unit pushrods from Banggood, plus a nice 17kg JX 180deg digital servo to try as a sail winch in my Graupner Optimist yacht, which hopefully I'll get back to after this model.
Hi Peter, that's how the hatch was made on the original (to the plan) and it's there so you can stand on the bunk and steer if it gets a bit rough and you get too much water on the screen. Even though the windows are large, you get a better view standing up when there are lots of other boats around. I found it handy at night, as with the tinted windows, you could see bugger all. On some larger models, the hatch is further forward, - helm on these is just forward of the hatch. (I'm standing on the bunk in the pic)
The way they are situated seems to be std on runabouts and cabin boats here (I've seen some sideways as well). A lot of our our old classic launches have the old flip top box lid on hinges, (bit dangerous in a wind unless you lock them down. Another reason might be for safety, as if you get a wave over the top, the hatch could come back and take your head off. Very easy to lock these back, (I just used a small stainless tower bolt).
Also the front edge of the hatch goes under a water seal/labyrinth at the front which sheds water off the hatch (there are also small coamings fitted around the roof under the hatch (on the original)which just clears them and overhangs them by an inch. Mine never leaked a drop, even in heavy rain/wind. If the hatch was the other way round, you would have a job sealing it.
Runners (1.5 sq) were glued to the uprights first then those measured parallel and tacked to the roof. The hatch was made with the sides about .5mm side clearance (over the runners which face outwards) and .5mm shorter than the runner uprights for vertical clearance (with the 1.5mm x 5mm 'hooks' glued to the bottom). The end caps were filed to the shape to clear the runners etc. Once running smoothly everything was cyno'd in place.
Re the older Toyotas, best ones were made in the late 80s and early 90s,-simple and reliable' My 90 MX83 3L 7MGE Cressida has done 300,000 and is still smoother and quieter than most modern cars, (including a few Lexus models which weren't that quiet and felt cramped to sit in) My AE 92 Corolla 1.6 DOHC is only 1DB louder at 50kph than my Mazda Axella 1.5 VVTi ( and a lot smoother riding!). Not too much of an improvement in 30 odd years? Oldies but goodies😁
Hi Martin, I did think of doing the varnish thing, but thought as I've got more interior varnish trim and the toe rails and grab rails as well, that it might have been a bit much. Also I didn't want to make it a feature, and wanted it to blend into the roof (if that's possible with a box on top😁)
Decided to have a crack at the boarding ladder Sunday night/early yesterday morning and after many hours and even more choice words, I finally got it looking something like a ladder. Quite tricky making it as it's made from 2.5mm brass rod and the pivot pin is only 1mm which needs pretty accurate drilling (had a couple of goes as my eyesight is not brilliant as I missed the center with the center punch, - even though I filed a flat, - and it drilled off center) Luckily I have a large bench top drill/mill which makes it easier but it was a bit like using a sledge hammer to drive a panel pin😁
Bent the rod by drilling a 3mm hole in some alloy bar, holding that in the vice, inserting the rod end in the hole and winding the rod round the bar, cutting the bent leg off and trimming everything to size.
Made a rough balsa jig to solder all the pre cut rungs and rails together but this was the most frustrating part, as the spacer legs were next to a rung, and when trying to solder the leg on, the rung solder would melt and the rung would move. Ended up using a small pair of pointed vice grips as a heat-sink on the rung which worked quite well. Pivot pins were made from 1mm rod , pre tinned and soldered on the outside rail, (pushed through just proud of the inside of the lower step rails,) then trimmed and filed, Rail deck ends and stand-off rod ends had 3mm washers soldered on for pads (didn't think the stand-offs out very well😴,- should have left a few mm to mount through the transom, as the deck ends are not fixed due to the removable top deck). Might have to drill small rod holes in the ends or hope the good Loc-tite cyano will hold😐
Lots and lots of soldering and unsoldering later, the ladder was painted with Dupli-colour chrome epoxy enamel and trimmed with mahogany veneer treads. NEXT😀--------------
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Decided to have a crack at the boarding ladder Sunday night/early yesterday morning and after many hours and even more choice words, I finally got it looking something like a ladder. Quite tricky making it as it's made from 2.5mm brass rod and the pivot pin is only 1mm which needs pretty accurate drilling (had a couple of goes as my eyesight is not brilliant as I missed the center with the center punch, - even though I filed a flat, - and it drilled off center) Luckily I have a large bench top drill/mill which makes it easier but it was a bit like using a sledge hammer to drive a panel pin😁
Bent the rod by drilling a 3mm hole in some alloy bar, holding that in the vice, inserting the rod end in the hole and winding the rod round the bar, cutting the bent leg off and trimming everything to size.
Made a rough balsa jig to solder all the pre cut rungs and rails together but this was the most frustrating part, as the spacer legs were next to a rung, and when trying to solder the leg on, the rung solder would melt and the rung would move. Ended up using a small pair of pointed vice grips as a heat-sink on the rung which worked quite well. Pivot pins were made from 1mm rod , pre tinned and soldered on the outside rail, (pushed through just proud of the inside of the lower step rails,) then trimmed and filed, Rail deck ends and stand-off rod ends had 3mm washers soldered on for pads (didn't think the stand-offs out very well😴,- should have left a few mm to mount through the transom, as the deck ends are not fixed due to the removable top deck). Might have to drill small rod holes in the ends or hope the good Loc-tite cyano will hold😐
Lots and lots of soldering and unsoldering later, the ladder was painted with Dupli-colour chrome epoxy enamel and trimmed with mahogany veneer treads. NEXT😀--------------
Hi MIR, paint is no problem to spray and dries quite quickly. Gets quite a nice chrome look,- may last longer with and enamel clear, but I haven't tried that yet. I've used it on the plastic tow ball covers on my cars and it lasts about a year outside in the elements.
JB
Hi JB.
Thanks for the response.
I can't find the same paint here in the UK but I've ordered some paint that's as near an equivalent as I can find here.
I'll do some tests with/without etch primer and with a lacquer too before I do it for real.
Cheers 😁👍.
Rob.
A little bit more work on the dash with the gauges done. They will have a lamp mounted in the cabinet behind to backlight them. Done the samel way I've done aircraft dashes for years, by finding a very clear pic on Google, scaling them down and printing them, then mounting them on the back of a piece of pre applied acetate sheet. I use std A4 paper as it ends up opaque and lends itself well to backlighting. You can actually buy a dash kit for aircraft which has various printed gauges in a range of sizes, and the thin acetate sheet to mount them over. You can also buy ready made dash packs for r/c cars which look very nice.
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A little bit more work on the dash with the gauges done. They will have a lamp mounted in the cabinet behind to backlight them. Done the samel way I've done aircraft dashes for years, by finding a very clear pic on Google, scaling them down and printing them, then mounting them on the back of a piece of pre applied acetate sheet. I use std A4 paper as it ends up opaque and lends itself well to backlighting. You can actually buy a dash kit for aircraft which has various printed gauges in a range of sizes, and the thin acetate sheet to mount them over. You can also buy ready made dash packs for r/c cars which look very nice.
Doug mentioned curtains so I thought I would humour him by adding one to the portable 'head' area (which as previously mentioned is usually carried for 'mermaids' only😁, - gentlemen to the transom and leeward!😁) Also managed to knock up a set of grab rails for the cabin tops (1st coat of stain on.) These were made by using an aluminium pattern with the rail 'blanks' clamped to it, the bulk carved out, and finished with a drum sander in the drill.
Quite quick and easy to do, especially in basswood. Rails were 2 pieces of 6x1.5mm basswood laminated to get the desired thickness, and to allow for a bit of finish sanding, (didn't want to make them to fragile) Also finished fitting the inner top and bottom cabin window, lower varnished trim pieces.
Any guesses on the curtain material?
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Doug mentioned curtains so I thought I would humour him by adding one to the portable 'head' area (which as previously mentioned is usually carried for 'mermaids' only😁, - gentlemen to the transom and leeward!😁) Also managed to knock up a set of grab rails for the cabin tops (1st coat of stain on.) These were made by using an aluminium pattern with the rail 'blanks' clamped to it, the bulk carved out, and finished with a drum sander in the drill.
Quite quick and easy to do, especially in basswood. Rails were 2 pieces of 6x1.5mm basswood laminated to get the desired thickness, and to allow for a bit of finish sanding, (didn't want to make them to fragile) Also finished fitting the inner top and bottom cabin window, lower varnished trim pieces.
JB
JB