I was trying to think of a way of getting the power to the lights from the hull without a long plug in lead. I spent an hour in the electronics shop looking at all types of plugs and fittings, and finally found something I thought might work. 3.5mm stereo plugs were the smallest and had the least required unplugging force and would be able to be glued in place. I couldn't use anything too hard to separate as the cabin is more a delicate shell rather than a strong box.
After many hours of doing and undoing, I finally got them to work. I needed the 2 systems as I wanted to be able to switch the nav lights or cabin or both. Haven't glued the brackets in place yet but may end up screwing them in if I can get in to drill a few holes. It's a pretty precise fit and the plugs are still a bit tight, so I have made a simple wedge tool to slide in and pry them up so I don't break the cabin, (already had to re-glue a few minor bits during experimentation, as the force required to pull 2 plugs was a bit much for it).
The plugs can't be seen from the rear, but I might make some covers and paint any visible wires and Bob will be your aunty. Wires in the roof can't be seen, but I may make a cover for them also, although not really necessary. I usually use masking tape for the wires on hidden flat surfaces, and paint everything to match, this makes it easy to service lamps or add bits and is almost invisible from outside.
Now the hard part's done, I can hook everything up under the floors with electronic switches and add the stern light and that will be the lights done.
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I was trying to think of a way of getting the power to the lights from the hull without a long plug in lead. I spent an hour in the electronics shop looking at all types of plugs and fittings, and finally found something I thought might work. 3.5mm stereo plugs were the smallest and had the least required unplugging force and would be able to be glued in place. I couldn't use anything too hard to separate as the cabin is more a delicate shell rather than a strong box.
After many hours of doing and undoing, I finally got them to work. I needed the 2 systems as I wanted to be able to switch the nav lights or cabin or both. Haven't glued the brackets in place yet but may end up screwing them in if I can get in to drill a few holes. It's a pretty precise fit and the plugs are still a bit tight, so I have made a simple wedge tool to slide in and pry them up so I don't break the cabin, (already had to re-glue a few minor bits during experimentation, as the force required to pull 2 plugs was a bit much for it).
The plugs can't be seen from the rear, but I might make some covers and paint any visible wires and Bob will be your aunty. Wires in the roof can't be seen, but I may make a cover for them also, although not really necessary. I usually use masking tape for the wires on hidden flat surfaces, and paint everything to match, this makes it easy to service lamps or add bits and is almost invisible from outside.
Now the hard part's done, I can hook everything up under the floors with electronic switches and add the stern light and that will be the lights done.
Hi Ian, they are only 5" and $4 ea, so I bought 4, plus 2 x 5" long nosed mini vice grips for the same price. They have been brilliant for welding wood, (although the rods do tend to smoke a bit on 120A 😁😁
It's all Grahams fault!😁 couldn't resist a purchase on sale today at the electronics store. Boat now has BT radio, (well a small BT speaker linked to my phone for 'Boat FM' 😁) $10 and it works! has a supposed range of 30ft which will be plenty to impress the natives with😂. A little heavy, but the boat needs some weight to get the jet unit down in the water to make sure it sucks. (and it may yet well do if things don't go to plan😀)
Vid is of the 'radio' in the boat,- not as clever as Grahams but I have the room to hide the speaker. Might buy an SD card for the phone and download some Pink Floyd, talking heads etc😁 (fewer signal problems than radio - my phone's a cheapy) So now it's almost time to partay🎈🎉🔥😎
It's all Grahams fault!😁 couldn't resist a purchase on sale today at the electronics store. Boat now has BT radio, (well a small BT speaker linked to my phone for 'Boat FM' 😁) $10 and it works! has a supposed range of 30ft which will be plenty to impress the natives with😂. A little heavy, but the boat needs some weight to get the jet unit down in the water to make sure it sucks. (and it may yet well do if things don't go to plan😀)
Vid is of the 'radio' in the boat,- not as clever as Grahams but I have the room to hide the speaker. Might buy an SD card for the phone and download some Pink Floyd, talking heads etc😁 (fewer signal problems than radio - my phone's a cheapy) So now it's almost time to partay🎈🎉🔥😎
Hi Peter, i think it will take a bit of weight to sink this barge, - only weighs around 2.6kg with everything thrown in, so not too bad. Wanted plenty of weight anyhow, to get the water level in the jet up enough to pump. I have gone the easy way for music in the boat, as I'm not an electronically clever bugger like Graham, so I've sort of cheated😁.
Speaker is not much bigger than a tennis ball with 2 sides cut off ('someone' will probably say balls don't have sides, but if they don't, why do we say the dark 'side' of the moon😉😁😁?) and only weighs 138g (if I could get the case apart I could probably save 40g, but it's welded shut. Bought another one today for a spare and was just in time as there were only 2 left .
It can pick up a phone call, has volume and track/station shift buttons on the back. Handy to take to the beach, as if you have an SD card with music on your phone, you can play that with a bit of volume, (mind you, the I Pod my son bought back from Japan on his school trip about 12 yrs ago, was better I think, - amazing sound for something that small and thin!).
Bluetooth is pretty good unless you are right next to someone, where there might be a slim chance of a problem, but most of the flash phones these days are pretty secure. We are moving to the controversial 5G network at the moment which is supposed to be heaps faster, but it's set up by Huawei (you do the maths,) Trump wouldn't let them into America due to the security risk, but not our clever Govt, "yeah, come on in, spy all you want, take over our country, feel free" Bunch of dozey u-know-whats. Now China's going to know when you take a (landfill we put our rubbish in😉)
Getting to the fun stuff now and the brain is hurting already😀,- so many wires going so many places ! As I need different voltages for cabin lights, nav lights, air pump, water pump, and hopefully the smoker (if I don't run out of room first), there will be 4 different voltage regs so each can be fine tuned (starting at min V and working up till it's all running spot on.) I am in the process of sorting Grahams fancy timer gizzmo for the smoker/air/water delay and have been sorting the TGY 9x for a few more channels.
I tried a few of the FlySky RXs I bought from Ali Express (same as TGY, just different stickers) but had to pair them a few times and set the auxiliary channels for the different functions (using the Helicopter settings for the rotary switches plus the flap or throttle cut setting) these don't automatically happen, and you find that channels 5,6,7,8 will do nothing until you designate them I had complete brain fade for a while till I eventually had some brain cells link up and remembered, but everything is now working on all 8 channels.
I have cabin lights on one top rotary, nav lights on another, reverse bucket on the front rotary, throttle, steering on the aileron channel, and will have smoke control on the rudder channel which leaves a few spare for something else which may occur to me (possibly switching on the cooling fans for the motor if it needs them,)- have ordered some temp sensitive switches to try, which would make it automatic. I made 2 power switches for the lights, by using Micro switches stuck to the sides of the micro servos, as I didn't want to wait a month or more for some ready made switches (the ones I have been buying (GT Power) have now doubled in price plus $6 odd shipping +++ from Ali Express.
There is almost no free shipping any more and I think they have cottoned on to us being an easy touch and wacked all the prices up. Sometimes I buy things, go back a week later to buy some more from the same store, and the price has gone up by $1 or so😐😴 veeeery interesting ! No wonder they make billions in profits, - one of the biggest companies in the world now.
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Getting to the fun stuff now and the brain is hurting already😀,- so many wires going so many places ! As I need different voltages for cabin lights, nav lights, air pump, water pump, and hopefully the smoker (if I don't run out of room first), there will be 4 different voltage regs so each can be fine tuned (starting at min V and working up till it's all running spot on.) I am in the process of sorting Grahams fancy timer gizzmo for the smoker/air/water delay and have been sorting the TGY 9x for a few more channels.
I tried a few of the FlySky RXs I bought from Ali Express (same as TGY, just different stickers) but had to pair them a few times and set the auxiliary channels for the different functions (using the Helicopter settings for the rotary switches plus the flap or throttle cut setting) these don't automatically happen, and you find that channels 5,6,7,8 will do nothing until you designate them I had complete brain fade for a while till I eventually had some brain cells link up and remembered, but everything is now working on all 8 channels.
I have cabin lights on one top rotary, nav lights on another, reverse bucket on the front rotary, throttle, steering on the aileron channel, and will have smoke control on the rudder channel which leaves a few spare for something else which may occur to me (possibly switching on the cooling fans for the motor if it needs them,)- have ordered some temp sensitive switches to try, which would make it automatic. I made 2 power switches for the lights, by using Micro switches stuck to the sides of the micro servos, as I didn't want to wait a month or more for some ready made switches (the ones I have been buying (GT Power) have now doubled in price plus $6 odd shipping +++ from Ali Express.
There is almost no free shipping any more and I think they have cottoned on to us being an easy touch and wacked all the prices up. Sometimes I buy things, go back a week later to buy some more from the same store, and the price has gone up by $1 or so😐😴 veeeery interesting ! No wonder they make billions in profits, - one of the biggest companies in the world now.
Hi HM, If you were thinking of something ready made, probably not, as this is all wired for individual functions. Easy enough to do really, just setting up and testing one thing at a time as you go (just basic electrical positive and negative stuff). You can buy a lot of things to make it easier, such as timers, remote control (from your TX) power switches, adjustable voltage regulators etc on E.Bay, Ali Express, Banggood etc quite cheaply (so if you make a mistake, it's cheap to replace the part,- and you buy a few at a time, just in case). Plenty of people on the site to help you also.
Hi Jbkiwi, thanks for the advice, at present I don't anticipate doing anything that requires much electrical plumbing, but I'm trying to think about the process using the KISS principle !!, as I've said I'll be picking everyone's brains A LOT !!.
Added smoke/water/air timer (by Graham) and e-cig smoker. leads from the timer go to air pump V reg, water pump V reg, smoker V reg, RX, and power. Still waiting for more V regs for smoker and air pump (leads are done) and that will be the wiring done (except maybe later, thermal switches on the motor fans)
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Added smoke/water/air timer (by Graham) and e-cig smoker. leads from the timer go to air pump V reg, water pump V reg, smoker V reg, RX, and power. Still waiting for more V regs for smoker and air pump (leads are done) and that will be the wiring done (except maybe later, thermal switches on the motor fans)
Hi Colin, thanks for the nice comments. I'm just using an air pump from Ali Express which I have found to be one of the better ones (put out a decent amount of air for their size without too much noise) I have a few with a side inlet pipe as well.
The e-cigs just have the air pushed through from the back end (rather than being sucked from the chrome end). I've done mine slightly differently from Grahams and inserted a silicone tube in the back end, soldered a neg terminal to the brass outer ring and a pos to the pos contact post inside. I've then filled the back end with auto gasket maker while holding the tube in place. Rather than having to unscrew the top end of the unit to fill it, I've just drilled 2 holes in the plastic tank for filling and bleeding. All seems to work quite well.
They originally screw onto a pump /battery unit which powers them and has the appropriate female contacts inside.
Went shopping today and found some nice pre-painted button head cabinet making screws for holding the floors down and some brass tube to use for making the exhausts. Fitted the screws tonight in places where they are not visible, or are unseen once the once the carpet is in.
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Went shopping today and found some nice pre-painted button head cabinet making screws for holding the floors down and some brass tube to use for making the exhausts. Fitted the screws tonight in places where they are not visible, or are unseen once the once the carpet is in.
Decided to get on with the exhausts for the air/water/smoke system today. managed to get them done and fitted, with the exception of the water inlet hose, which comes from the top of the jet unit outside the transom. I'll be fitting that once the jet unit is finally installed. The exhausts are a tube within a tube with smoke coming in around the outside of the inner tube and air/water coming through the inner tube.
Tested the electrics yesterday but had a dud voltage reg on the water pump which decided to start smoking (bad habit smoking😁) I have 5 more on order so will have to wait till they come to continue testing.
Bent the balsa toe rails (boiling water) yesterday and applied a coat of stain today. I'll be getting on to the deck fittings next.
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Decided to get on with the exhausts for the air/water/smoke system today. managed to get them done and fitted, with the exception of the water inlet hose, which comes from the top of the jet unit outside the transom. I'll be fitting that once the jet unit is finally installed. The exhausts are a tube within a tube with smoke coming in around the outside of the inner tube and air/water coming through the inner tube.
Tested the electrics yesterday but had a dud voltage reg on the water pump which decided to start smoking (bad habit smoking😁) I have 5 more on order so will have to wait till they come to continue testing.
Bent the balsa toe rails (boiling water) yesterday and applied a coat of stain today. I'll be getting on to the deck fittings next.
I think that engine cover is great, and not that expensive to say it has cooling fans in it
I just need the right model to build that will suit one.
Although that's a bit like finding a matchstick and then deciding to build a log cabin (out of matchsticks)😁
There are a few different 'motors' around Mike, ( V8s, diesels, 6 cyls etc) but some are stupidly expensive. I thought this was quite reasonable for the price (one of the cheapest, - and it has fans) which is why I took a punt on it. Surprisingly very accurately made! Would go nicely in a mahogany speedboat like a Riva or similar.
Got a bit enthusiastic yesterday and fitted the jet unit and some of the remaining plumbing. lot of fiddling to get everything in as the inner transom is extremely 'Busy' with the jet, servos, brackets steering and bucket arms, and exhausts. I had pre set everything a while back, but found when it came to the final assembly, a few things had to be 'adjusted'. All went together in the end and worked.
Will have to waterproof the pushrod holes as a small amount of water gets in in reverse if you give it a bit of stick. The small bellows I bought are no good for this application as they are too short one way and too long the other, causing binding. A slit cloth should do the trick once the holes are refined (too large due to pushrod fitting experiments)
Then I got more enthusiastic and decided to utilise the big white test tank (see vid) Everything worked spot on (with a small addition of 300g stern weight to get the jet low enough,) I knew it might be a problem, but easily fixed with weight. Reverse bucket movement was adjusted on the TX endpoint settings so it cleared the steering nozzle by 1mm and didn't bind pulling up . Reversing worked better than expected with quite accurate steering and slow speed control (as much as you can have in a bath😁) Not sure how wind will affect it out in the wild, but at least it works, which is a bonus.
A few more deck bits, front bunk 'squabs' a seat for the skipper (and maybe a skipper) and she'll be ready for her 'close-up' 😁
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Got a bit enthusiastic yesterday and fitted the jet unit and some of the remaining plumbing. lot of fiddling to get everything in as the inner transom is extremely 'Busy' with the jet, servos, brackets steering and bucket arms, and exhausts. I had pre set everything a while back, but found when it came to the final assembly, a few things had to be 'adjusted'. All went together in the end and worked.
Will have to waterproof the pushrod holes as a small amount of water gets in in reverse if you give it a bit of stick. The small bellows I bought are no good for this application as they are too short one way and too long the other, causing binding. A slit cloth should do the trick once the holes are refined (too large due to pushrod fitting experiments)
Then I got more enthusiastic and decided to utilise the big white test tank (see vid) Everything worked spot on (with a small addition of 300g stern weight to get the jet low enough,) I knew it might be a problem, but easily fixed with weight. Reverse bucket movement was adjusted on the TX endpoint settings so it cleared the steering nozzle by 1mm and didn't bind pulling up . Reversing worked better than expected with quite accurate steering and slow speed control (as much as you can have in a bath😁) Not sure how wind will affect it out in the wild, but at least it works, which is a bonus.
A few more deck bits, front bunk 'squabs' a seat for the skipper (and maybe a skipper) and she'll be ready for her 'close-up' 😁
Hi Ian, I had some Futaba linear servos in my Graupner Bell 47G Helicopter, and for the ailerons in a pylon racer in the late 70s and never had a problem with them. They were a handy solution to a tight space where rotarys just wouldn't fit. That was on 27MHz as well with the old Futaba FP6FN (which I still have, with the original mini S6 LH and RH servos). I was thinking of trying to fit a new 2.4 into the case for a bit of fun. I've used those servos and some (at the time, top of the line FP S16 Futaba servos with FM sets) which are as smooth as any modern servo and still work perfectly.
A storm happening at the moment so thought I'd get on with a bit more interior finishing. The forward bunk boxes needed 'squabs', so managed to make the balsa backs and cover them. They are a friction fit with pull tabs so I can get at the front floor hold-down screws. Could be a handy space for more future goodies. Waiting for more staining to dry so I can finish some bunk trimming.
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A storm happening at the moment so thought I'd get on with a bit more interior finishing. The forward bunk boxes needed 'squabs', so managed to make the balsa backs and cover them. They are a friction fit with pull tabs so I can get at the front floor hold-down screws. Could be a handy space for more future goodies. Waiting for more staining to dry so I can finish some bunk trimming.
"You can spend hours in there"
And a lot of dosh by the sound of it🤑🤑🤑
Must have a closer shufti round our local craft shops, don't think we have Spotlight.
I'll look around for one called 'Scheinwerfer' (Shine Thrower)😁😂
Must be something similar though.
Might be closed due to Lockdown 2.0 though☹️ It started on Monday.
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS Thinks 🙄 If I can find one open I could look for some Royal Blue crepe paper as well, for curtains in my Sea Scout to match the hull colour😀
I have a truckload of the blue I used, can always send you a piece if you can't find any and if it's the right colour. You could always mist it with some vegetable dye or similar to make it darker, although the lighter blue might look quite nice against the dark blue?. Most of the stuff in the shop is quite reasonable and the range of cloth/material is fantastic! My son built a big card table for the house he and his mates are sharing, and we covered it in a black velvet material which was on sale for about $18/meter, - looked real flash!
Managed to get the pushrod holes sorted. I found that one of the boot fitted after all once I'd cut both ends off!. The bucket pushrod ply cover has a rounded V cut out of it ( the pushrod travels in an arc) and has a felt 'wiper' which will be greased after the ply cover has been painted.
The sound unit can be seen crammed into the last big space left where it would be out of sight (much re-arranging of the deckchairs was required to fit it!) Everything is now hidden beneath the floors, with batteries in the rear seat boxes for easy removal.
Water inlet hose was re routed and will be trimmed
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Managed to get the pushrod holes sorted. I found that one of the boot fitted after all once I'd cut both ends off!. The bucket pushrod ply cover has a rounded V cut out of it ( the pushrod travels in an arc) and has a felt 'wiper' which will be greased after the ply cover has been painted.
The sound unit can be seen crammed into the last big space left where it would be out of sight (much re-arranging of the deckchairs was required to fit it!) Everything is now hidden beneath the floors, with batteries in the rear seat boxes for easy removal.
Water inlet hose was re routed and will be trimmed
Made the bow roller from aluminium channel,- roller is a shaved down plastic jewellery bead, (painted.) Made the helm seat from balsa and covered it with the same felt as squabs, and with a dowel upstand. A washer was epoxied to the bottom, before painting with chrome paint. Upstand fits into a hole in the bunk and the seat is removable. Fitted the last front bunk stained trims, and they are almost complete. A bit more trimming inside to do yet.
Fitted the stbd toe rail, but decided to make another port toe rail due to the difference in balsa hardness, which left it square, as it expanded back into shape after rounding it over with a former. I have also fitted a hidden on/off switch, which can be accessed by either unclipping the rear deck or from underneath it (removing the engine cover first)
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Made the bow roller from aluminium channel,- roller is a shaved down plastic jewellery bead, (painted.) Made the helm seat from balsa and covered it with the same felt as squabs, and with a dowel upstand. A washer was epoxied to the bottom, before painting with chrome paint. Upstand fits into a hole in the bunk and the seat is removable. Fitted the last front bunk stained trims, and they are almost complete. A bit more trimming inside to do yet.
Fitted the stbd toe rail, but decided to make another port toe rail due to the difference in balsa hardness, which left it square, as it expanded back into shape after rounding it over with a former. I have also fitted a hidden on/off switch, which can be accessed by either unclipping the rear deck or from underneath it (removing the engine cover first)
JB
Being an Ex Model Engineer I have about 8 Mini Moles Very Helpful