Hi All, (Please note pictures not in order)
Added pads for twin rudders and some imitation exhausts.
More complications, after checking the Hull for straightness (Using edge of a ruler, see light under it.) I found that the boat had a hook (Indent in the hull) so thought had better sort it now rather than later.
Started by removing some material from the transom area under the hull, then keyed the area for the addition of a thin layer of plastic padding, then spent a hour or more sanding it off.
Regards Roy
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Hi All, (Please note pictures not in order)
Added pads for twin rudders and some imitation exhausts.
More complications, after checking the Hull for straightness (Using edge of a ruler, see light under it.) I found that the boat had a hook (Indent in the hull) so thought had better sort it now rather than later.
Started by removing some material from the transom area under the hull, then keyed the area for the addition of a thin layer of plastic padding, then spent a hour or more sanding it off.
Regards Roy
Hi there,
Just received my second rudder through the post, have now modified both so they will lift up if hit a branch or other obstacle in the water.
Also drilled the tiller of the rudder so linkages will be symmetrical out of the transom. similar to the orange boat pictured.
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Hi there,
Just received my second rudder through the post, have now modified both so they will lift up if hit a branch or other obstacle in the water.
Also drilled the tiller of the rudder so linkages will be symmetrical out of the transom. similar to the orange boat pictured.
Hi Rick,
I think it unlikely, they may fall back down partly, mainly it is to stop you ripping your rudders out the transom if you hit a tree branch floating on the water.
Added two pictures of a commercial rudder.
Regards Roy
Had a smashing time removing excess wood, to increase access to rear of the hull, and a picture of how it was before, also a picture of one of the motors and mount.
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Had a smashing time removing excess wood, to increase access to rear of the hull, and a picture of how it was before, also a picture of one of the motors and mount.
Hull preparation filling imperfections, undercoat hull, drill for transom two rubber bellows for servo linkages.
Received second ESC but still waiting for the two water jackets, before I install the flexi-shafts and bend them to shape.
Also filled old Ariel position and the old water outlet position.
TIP when bending a flexi shafts outer tubing, fill it with compacted salt, sugar or sand two prevent kinking.
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Hull preparation filling imperfections, undercoat hull, drill for transom two rubber bellows for servo linkages.
Received second ESC but still waiting for the two water jackets, before I install the flexi-shafts and bend them to shape.
Also filled old Ariel position and the old water outlet position.
TIP when bending a flexi shafts outer tubing, fill it with compacted salt, sugar or sand two prevent kinking.
Holy Disco,
Is it a bird, is it a plane, Is it a CD player!
I thought I would give every one a laugh, at my boat build, yes be careful with expanding foam as it expands up to 6 x it's initial volume.
I not going to tell you what it is going to be.
It is not going to be a Classic Cigarette hull, or a CD player.
Removed some more wood from the original frame the cabin would have sat on, added plastic pipe. reinforced and glued then foam filled, CDs were the right size for the job.
Regards
Roy
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Holy Disco,
Is it a bird, is it a plane, Is it a CD player!
I thought I would give every one a laugh, at my boat build, yes be careful with expanding foam as it expands up to 6 x it's initial volume.
I not going to tell you what it is going to be.
It is not going to be a Classic Cigarette hull, or a CD player.
Removed some more wood from the original frame the cabin would have sat on, added plastic pipe. reinforced and glued then foam filled, CDs were the right size for the job.
Hi there shipmates,
Due to the propeller shaft spacing of 41 mm apart, I had to make a engine mount, and angled it to a line the two flexi shafts with minimal bending.
I will not cut the flexi shafts until I fit the two contra rotating propellers, that are on order. 2x 40mm diameter x 18mm pitch.
Starting on the cockpit area, I lined it with wood and built a seat also from wood, waiting for some bolts before mounting the rest of the hardware to the transom.
Regards Roy
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Hi there shipmates,
Due to the propeller shaft spacing of 41 mm apart, I had to make a engine mount, and angled it to a line the two flexi shafts with minimal bending.
I will not cut the flexi shafts until I fit the two contra rotating propellers, that are on order. 2x 40mm diameter x 18mm pitch.
Starting on the cockpit area, I lined it with wood and built a seat also from wood, waiting for some bolts before mounting the rest of the hardware to the transom.
Hi there shipmates,
'Nut Screws Washer and bolts', yes there're all in the transom now.
Had to put the bolts in backwards for the turn fins as the space restrictions inside made it near impossible to use a spanner or box spanner inside the hulls stern.
Added side panels to the cockpit area. Build in seat started, not shown but reinforced rear access compartment.
Regards
Roy
P.S. the rudders are vertical it's an optical illusion caused by my camera!
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Hi there shipmates,
'Nut Screws Washer and bolts', yes there're all in the transom now.
Had to put the bolts in backwards for the turn fins as the space restrictions inside made it near impossible to use a spanner or box spanner inside the hulls stern.
Added side panels to the cockpit area. Build in seat started, not shown but reinforced rear access compartment.
Regards
Roy
P.S. the rudders are vertical it's an optical illusion caused by my camera!
Hi there Shipmates,
Added a brace between stingers, I know it will cause drag but its better than the props (40mm) touching under the forces applied to the stingers in turning etc. initially they where only 0.5mm apart the brace holds them at 1mm.
Put servos in positions. (metal geared digital 20kg)
Added padding to cockpit seats, centre console under way.
Added shaping to main compartment hatch (a bit like Beetle wings). filled with foam, so hatch will not sink.
Regards
Roy
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Hi there Shipmates,
Added a brace between stingers, I know it will cause drag but its better than the props (40mm) touching under the forces applied to the stingers in turning etc. initially they where only 0.5mm apart the brace holds them at 1mm.
Put servos in positions. (metal geared digital 20kg)
Added padding to cockpit seats, centre console under way.
Added shaping to main compartment hatch (a bit like Beetle wings). filled with foam, so hatch will not sink.
Hi Shipmates,
Thanks for comments, Like always you don't know how a boat will perform until its on the water, then you realise what you have done wrong or right.
Its funny that Windermere was mentioned as I live about 30 miles away from it.
Shame it has a speed limit of 10mph, if anyone need a big lake the one at talking tarn is 65 acres. and there is a model boat club there, https://www.facebook.com/groups/CalisleMBC/
but no shelter close by.
"Talkin Tarn Country Park lies nine miles east of Carlisle and two mile south of Brampton on the B6413 Castle Carrock road. There is a 65 acre lake set amid 120 acres of farmland and woodland. The tarn is an ideal place for active recreation or a quiet stroll through the mature woodlands."
Hi Shipmates,
• Have taken off trim tabs and increased the angle on the transom pads re-
affixed so they are clear of the water in their neutral position.
• Added fixing points for servo mounting board/battery box
• Foamed front compartment to make the boat unsinkable, also filled gaps
between seats and cockpit sides.
• Added ABS top to the compartment hatch to enable me to tape down the
ABS area without damaging paintwork to provide a water tight seal.
🤞 After reading an article on using the rooster tail effect to lift the rear of the boat in a similar way to a trim tab. I have designed a deflector plate to hang over the props thus when the rooster effect occurs the force of the water hits the plate (riding surface) and lifts the stern slightly.
Regards Roy
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• Have taken off trim tabs and increased the angle on the transom pads re-
affixed so they are clear of the water in their neutral position.
• Added fixing points for servo mounting board/battery box
• Foamed front compartment to make the boat unsinkable, also filled gaps
between seats and cockpit sides.
• Added ABS top to the compartment hatch to enable me to tape down the
ABS area without damaging paintwork to provide a water tight seal.
🤞 After reading an article on using the rooster tail effect to lift the rear of the boat in a similar way to a trim tab. I have designed a deflector plate to hang over the props thus when the rooster effect occurs the force of the water hits the plate (riding surface) and lifts the stern slightly.
Hi Shipmates,
1.Added middle console to cockpit
2.Connected servos to the rudders
3.Added some filler to rear hatch cover
4.Added aerofoil and tail fin.
Regards
Roy
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Hi Shipmates,
1.Added middle console to cockpit
2.Connected servos to the rudders
3.Added some filler to rear hatch cover
4.Added aerofoil and tail fin.
Regards
Roy
That's one very busy rear end Roy. Nicely done👍
Fingers crossed that it doesn't all fly round Batman's ears on the sea trials😮🤞
"Pond rockets" are not exactly my 'thing' either (although I accidentally turned my U25 into one😁) but I really like what you are doing with this one! Hat off Sir, well thought out and executed😀
Can't wait for the trials vid.
Holy planing Batman🙈 (This Bat Mask is ruining my hairdo!🤔) 😁
Cheers, Doug 😎