I missed the postman today but it was my propshaft and propeller from CMB that was fast
So I’m now going to do the long aft deck next.
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Hi T I have used a building board for all my builds as that is the recommendation I received from the members in my club. Not sure I have heard of a scratch two half hull build. None of my scratch builds are are made in halves.Frame cut and mounted on the board keel attached and planking done while on the board. Your way must work just not tried it myself.
Rick
Hatches to cut yet
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Overlander 28/36 1120kv with maintenance free water proof propshaft and 35mm 4 blade type A propeller.
The rudder is cut from 5mm ply and sanded to a taper
I modified the keel and frame 3 to get the motor mount low enough.
I've added a link to a video of same motor in my Hoga tug.
I have an strong dislike of universal joints and their clakity clakiness so I make my own couplings that also act as an alignment tool.
https://techno.smugmug.com/Billing-Boats-Hoga-tug-708/i-MsR3gFV/A
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Overlander 28/36 1120kv with maintenance free water proof propshaft and 35mm 4 blade type A propeller.
The rudder is cut from 5mm ply and sanded to a taper
I modified the keel and frame 3 to get the motor mount low enough.
I've added a link to a video of same motor in my Hoga tug.
I have an strong dislike of universal joints and their clakity clakiness so I make my own couplings that also act as an alignment tool. https://techno.smugmug.com/Billing-Boats-Hoga-tug-708/i-MsR3gFV/A
As I prepare the deck to the point that I can make a template of it, I realise there is no support or provision for the mast and deck fittings 🤔
So I’ve fitted a double deck with holes aligned below the deck skin to provide adequate vertical security
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As I prepare the deck to the point that I can make a template of it, I realise there is no support or provision for the mast and deck fittings 🤔
So I’ve fitted a double deck with holes aligned below the deck skin to provide adequate vertical security
Tomorrow I will be able to start sanding the frames. This is all important if you want your planks to fit with ease.
I will spend as much time getting this perfect as I will fitting planks.
I’ve still to acquire suitable wood stock, preferably obechi.
Actually if it’s not raining I will resin coat all the inside surfaces first with diluted finishing resin.
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Tomorrow I will be able to start sanding the frames. This is all important if you want your planks to fit with ease.
I will spend as much time getting this perfect as I will fitting planks.
I’ve still to acquire suitable wood stock, preferably obechi.
Actually if it’s not raining I will resin coat all the inside surfaces first with diluted finishing resin.
I was up very early today so now already all the wood is sealed with dilute resin.
This is a job best done outdoors as the vapours can have an adverse affect on the skin without good ventilation.
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I was up very early today so now already all the wood is sealed with dilute resin.
This is a job best done outdoors as the vapours can have an adverse affect on the skin without good ventilation.
Many of my builds have been shelved, entirely due to the weather or the lack of degrees.
If this forecasted warmer weather does manifest itself consistently I will have to shelve this build in favour of two others that are stalled for painting.
First is my Stevns Arctic 75lb tug.
I don’t have a blog for this here but you can see it in my Harbour along with a link to photo gallery.
I think there is enough left to do to maybe start a blog “The finishing straight” ?
Many of my builds have been shelved, entirely due to the weather or the lack of degrees.
If this forecasted warmer weather does manifest itself consistently I will have to shelve this build in favour of two others that are stalled for painting.
First is my Stevns Arctic 75lb tug.
I don’t have a blog for this here but you can see it in my Harbour along with a link to photo gallery.
I think there is enough left to do to maybe start a blog “The finishing straight” ?
Here the second of two halves clamped in place.
The decks are supported bow and stern parallel to the bench to ensure no twist.
The bow and stern of the skins are not glued yet but will be persuaded into place once the main areas have set.
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Here the second of two halves clamped in place.
The decks are supported bow and stern parallel to the bench to ensure no twist.
The bow and stern of the skins are not glued yet but will be persuaded into place once the main areas have set.
I’m working on skinning
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Slow progress until I get passed the tight spots
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Thanks Rick
Can’t go any faster than the glue.
On some builds I’ve planked with CA but you can get some pretty bad skin irritations after prolonged use indoors.
Planking is pretty quick once the stern around the prop is out of the way.
I use multiple clamps to prevent them waving in and out.
Personally I've not needed that method with a build so far, they have all been such that the frame construction has provided all the rigidity required. I find being able to move it around freely as I work much less awkward.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Amati-Riva-Aquarama/i-4qfWdPd/0/ab6103cc/X3/DEA6316F-F90F-4030-A8F3-D4D49A3E8099-X3.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Amati-Riva-Aquarama/i-bpDj5jF/0/4a69ac69/X3/B905EE23-C946-45B6-B070-DE652DBDB321-X3.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Amati-Riva-Aquarama/i-TMCWZqj/0/4ddcfd4d/X4/FC4B8DA1-C8F2-463D-B537-0CF352EA3553-X4.jpg
Rick