Bit by bit.
I’ll add pictures as it goes today.
Edit
I’ve decided to plank the whole aft section with the planks joining at the midship frame. As this is going to be glass coated anything goes, whatever is easiest.
The aft bulwark ply bends very easily if used with the grain at 90 degrees to the bend.
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Bit by bit.
I’ll add pictures as it goes today.
Edit
I’ve decided to plank the whole aft section with the planks joining at the midship frame. As this is going to be glass coated anything goes, whatever is easiest.
The aft bulwark ply bends very easily if used with the grain at 90 degrees to the bend.
Indeed Ron👍
The original 1964 kit used mahogany sheet and everything was printed on it with the grain the wrong way rendering it useless for the bends required.
Early start. I hope to finish the stern today and start on the rest of the ply skin.
Pictures 3 and 4 show an example of how I overlay the next plank to mark a cutting line on the previous plank.
There is a technical name for this but I just call it making it fit 😂
Picture 5 the rest of the bulwark fitted as far as frame 5 where the shape will change moving forward.
As this is not a kit but a remake with new wood the ply strip is cut to a height taken off the plan and allowing for the gunwale later.
Now pictures 9 & 10
First the line pared back with a scalpel and a file used to straighten the edge.
A dry fit of the next plank in 10 shows some of the last but one plank also needs a trim.
This doesn’t need to be done frequently but here I’m slowly bringing the planks around to be parallel to the deck line.
Picture 11 here the planks are not trimmed to length as it aids clamping each successive plank.
Picture 12
Now that this plank is completely straight there is no sideways stress so it simply needs clamps to prevent waves and keep it flush to the previous one.
*Wavey planks.*
Eliminating waves equals a better shape with less sanding and less filling.
You can fill low spots but sanding high spots could break through, both undesirable.
Picture 16
As the planks from above and below converge we need to select planks who’s widths will fit the opening without leaving a slither. Better a little over size than just short.
Final pictures with stern quarter balsa roughly shaped and soaked in resin to harden it.
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Early start. I hope to finish the stern today and start on the rest of the ply skin.
Pictures 3 and 4 show an example of how I overlay the next plank to mark a cutting line on the previous plank.
There is a technical name for this but I just call it making it fit 😂
Picture 5 the rest of the bulwark fitted as far as frame 5 where the shape will change moving forward.
As this is not a kit but a remake with new wood the ply strip is cut to a height taken off the plan and allowing for the gunwale later.
Now pictures 9 & 10
First the line pared back with a scalpel and a file used to straighten the edge.
A dry fit of the next plank in 10 shows some of the last but one plank also needs a trim.
This doesn’t need to be done frequently but here I’m slowly bringing the planks around to be parallel to the deck line.
Picture 11 here the planks are not trimmed to length as it aids clamping each successive plank.
Picture 12
Now that this plank is completely straight there is no sideways stress so it simply needs clamps to prevent waves and keep it flush to the previous one. Wavey planks.
Eliminating waves equals a better shape with less sanding and less filling.
You can fill low spots but sanding high spots could break through, both undesirable.
Picture 16
As the planks from above and below converge we need to select planks who’s widths will fit the opening without leaving a slither. Better a little over size than just short.
Final pictures with stern quarter balsa roughly shaped and soaked in resin to harden it.
Good question Martin
It is finishing resin. All of my wooden boat builds are built to withstand total submersion. I seal as I go ensuring surfaces are covered before I cannot get to them.
When the planking is finished I poor dilute resin into each compartment and rotate the hull back and forth to make sure they are coated right up to the deck
Catching up on yesterday’s schedule.
Aft hull skin now closed and resin coated inside along with a bit of lead shot in the stern bilge, no point wasting surplus mixed resin
Straight edges fitted fore and aft to check for twist all along the way. Straight as a die 👌
A break now before making a card template to skin the bow in one piece of ply.
Fan for ventilation while using resin.
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Catching up on yesterday’s schedule.
Aft hull skin now closed and resin coated inside along with a bit of lead shot in the stern bilge, no point wasting surplus mixed resin
Straight edges fitted fore and aft to check for twist all along the way. Straight as a die 👌
A break now before making a card template to skin the bow in one piece of ply.
Fan for ventilation while using resin.
This is my fifth plank on frame in recent years.
Have a look at my Billing Hoga in my Harbour.
Not even any filler so I decided to not paint her to show new modellers how its constructed. Bare wood is very popular at shows
Thank you Colin
I just had a count up and this is my sixth plank on frame and my Riva Aquarama is double planked with a lime base and mahogany top🤔
Smit Rotterdam
Booth bay lobster boat
Boulogne Etaples
Riva Aquarama
Pearl harbour Hoga
Mercantic
I’m quite surprised by that but I cannot say I’m not well practised 😂
Her bottom feels really smooth now 🤗
No more work here now until the whole skin is ready for sanding.
So the bow rears her head for attention.
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Thank you. Actually someone on Facebook asked what width planking I'm using. A good question and taken for granted. Todays Billing kits come generally with 7mm wide but as this is not a kit but a remake with new timber I had to buy a selection of what is available. For the most part I've used 6mm planks
Restless and armed with a single malt I visited the bow tonight.
There’s a mismatch betwixt the keel and the frames not of my doing.
The only course open is to the fix the skin as is and trim the keel to suit.
One side fixed to set overnight.
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Restless and armed with a single malt I visited the bow tonight.
There’s a mismatch betwixt the keel and the frames not of my doing.
The only course open is to the fix the skin as is and trim the keel to suit.
One side fixed to set overnight.
Lots of things kept me away today so not much to show on the bow
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After most of the weekend off.
Planking from the keel upwards and extending the ply bulwarks forwards.
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Both sides now at the same stage.
Rather than reshape the keel to suit the bottom skins I’ve dammed the area with masking tape to fill out with 15 minute resin, then shaped.
Lead shot installed in the bow also.
Edit
Since England beat Germany I fitted another plank 🍻😜
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Both sides now at the same stage.
Rather than reshape the keel to suit the bottom skins I’ve dammed the area with masking tape to fill out with 15 minute resin, then shaped.
Lead shot installed in the bow also.
Edit
Since England beat Germany I fitted another plank 🍻😜
More planks and the bow bulwark fitted.
Once the bulwark is set the frame ribs are knocked out to be replaced with scale ribs in the correct places as marked in pencil.
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More planks and the bow bulwark fitted.
Once the bulwark is set the frame ribs are knocked out to be replaced with scale ribs in the correct places as marked in pencil.
Not many pictures but I will add more later.
Hull is almost closed and the last piece will be a block of balsa for final shape before sanding the entire hull ready for grp overcoat.
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Not many pictures but I will add more later.
Hull is almost closed and the last piece will be a block of balsa for final shape before sanding the entire hull ready for grp overcoat.
The original 1964 kit used mahogany sheet and everything was printed on it with the grain the wrong way rendering it useless for the bends required.