LEDs
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- tim morlandSilver
LEDs
Led interested I have a tug which needs wiring WATTLE scratch built is there any one who could help who could give me a hand the person who was going to help had an car accident has two vertebrae fractured so he will be unable to do anything I do have a diagram of the tugs. wireing fromthe man who first desighned and built it as I did spend a lot of time on it I would loke to have the finishhing part completed
Any help would be gratefull for
Thanks Mick
Any help would be gratefull for
Thanks Mick
Michael beck Wilkins McQuilkan
LEDs
Hi Zooma
Relative simple really. There is a How To Article on Radio Control Wiring on this site that gives useful advice.
You need a 3v or higher dc supply and a resistor to limit the current flow, 470 ohms to 1000 ohms at 0.25 watts will usually work. The lower the value the brighter the light.
They are polarised so will only work if connected correctly so if it doesn't work just reverse the connections. The resistor can be in either lead. No resistor usually results on destruction of the diode.
Compared to incandescent lights they are cool running when not too bright so are ideal for using with plastic fittings. They use minimal current and are available in all colours, including u/v and self flashing and from 10mm down to 2mm, plus you can also buy surface mount types about 1mm.
My RMS Olympic build blog detailed my installation of several hundred LEDs for portholes and the use of home built 317 voltage controllers. The total current was less than 200 Ma.
https://model-planes.com/blogs/4529
For a simple set up a battery and resistor works fine so should be well within the capabilities of the average modeller.
Dave
Relative simple really. There is a How To Article on Radio Control Wiring on this site that gives useful advice.
You need a 3v or higher dc supply and a resistor to limit the current flow, 470 ohms to 1000 ohms at 0.25 watts will usually work. The lower the value the brighter the light.
They are polarised so will only work if connected correctly so if it doesn't work just reverse the connections. The resistor can be in either lead. No resistor usually results on destruction of the diode.
Compared to incandescent lights they are cool running when not too bright so are ideal for using with plastic fittings. They use minimal current and are available in all colours, including u/v and self flashing and from 10mm down to 2mm, plus you can also buy surface mount types about 1mm.
My RMS Olympic build blog detailed my installation of several hundred LEDs for portholes and the use of home built 317 voltage controllers. The total current was less than 200 Ma.
https://model-planes.com/blogs/4529
For a simple set up a battery and resistor works fine so should be well within the capabilities of the average modeller.
Dave
Liked by Martin555
LEDs
Hello everyone,
I suppose it's obvious, but now is a good time to buy LEDs in the form of Christmas decorations. I like the very small ones that will fit inside ships lanterns. They are extremely difficult to solder so buying them pre-soldered onto wire as Christmas decorations is a bonus. Sometimes they come with electronics that make them flash. If you wait a few weeks many shops will be selling them off cheap after Christmas. These are often a lot cheaper than buying from electronic suppliers.
best wishes Tim
I suppose it's obvious, but now is a good time to buy LEDs in the form of Christmas decorations. I like the very small ones that will fit inside ships lanterns. They are extremely difficult to solder so buying them pre-soldered onto wire as Christmas decorations is a bonus. Sometimes they come with electronics that make them flash. If you wait a few weeks many shops will be selling them off cheap after Christmas. These are often a lot cheaper than buying from electronic suppliers.
best wishes Tim
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