Hi tony,
l have a Burgess, its almost as old as me but is in better condition. I have only used it for cutting curves and shapes, l don,t have a spacer or stop bar to measure against the blade to get a correct a thickness.
I will look into that, never needed it so up till now never thought about it.
stay safe jim.

Proper job then. My table saw uses 10" blades and came like most of my kit from Machine Mart. The metal lathe is a Myford plus a smaller bench Cowells 90 clockmakers lathe. I also have a BCA jig borer - miller with a rotary table. Fortunate to have had Tony from lathes.co.uk who was within driving distance and has all types of lathes for sale.

Mine is a 15” General International as is my lathe, the other machines are various manufacturers.

Agree entirely Ron. I have Table saw, bandsaw, thicknesser/planer, router and recently acquired jointer. The videos are very informative and I have watched similar on Utube and improved my safety levels and end results. Sharp blades and correctly aligned machinery make life so much better. I have used all of my kit to prepare wood for planking etc. We have a couple of retired joiners in our club and their models are always exceptional. I urge anyone to make use of the Utube videos on how to use woodworking machines as there are right and wrong ways to work wood if you want a fine finish.

Hi Jim,
what make of bandsaw do you have? I've an Einhell TC-SB 200/1 which I've used to cut iroko. Provided you don't push the piece through too hard, it works just fine. A working tip for anyone using an Einhell -do ensure you have a a good suction to vacuum the dust, because residue dust can cover the motor contacts and prevent restart.
Tony A...........

Red Oak, White or Quarter sawn? I have used my table saw to make strips 1/8”- 3/16” just need a proper sharp blade. Be sure you have a riving knive on your saw.


Also use push sticks plus fingerboard if so desired.

I was a high school shop teacher before retiring.

Doug, it was from an old horizontal mill where I worked 10" dia run at 800 rpm it cut really well and easy to sharpen.
My old table saw had belt drive with multiple pulleys so easy to run slowly.
I'll post some pictures of Caroline's doll's house tomorrow when I get the laptop out.
Kit detector upgrade not required as I owned up, it was on that e sale site with a £30 buy it now, and only 40 miles away, so collection was easy.
The lady selling it gave me a lot of information about her parents modelling boats and doll's houses.
Bedtime calls as we have an early start tomorrow.
Cheers Colin.

"Heart of oak are our ships, Jolly Tars are our men,;
We always are ready, steady, boys, steady!
We'll fight and we'll conquer again and again."


Good stuff Colin👍 be nice to see what Caroline made with 'em sometime.
BTW; how do you fit a slitting blade to your milling machine?
Wondering if that's possible with my mini mill somehow.
(Scratch scratch scratch - yet more hairs on the bench!🤔)
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Jim. Had to do a similar thing about 10 years ago with some 12 x 2 x 4ft green oak I was given.
I first ran it through my table saw at 1 inch spacing with a fine slitting blade from my milling machine, this gave me 10 pieces of 2 x 1 + 1of 2 x .7
I then cut them down the middle with my bandsaw. Giving 20 pieces 2 x .45 followed by slitting them at 2mm spacing on the band saw which gave about 18 good pieces from each measuring 2mm by .45 inch.
Finally passed through my thicknesses set at 1/16th inch.
Sadly they weren't for me but for the wife's dolls house building, with real oak plank flooring. A 12 room Georgian mansion.
So it is possible, but great care is needed when running with the grain.
Hope this hasn't put you off, as its well worth the effort.
Cheers Colin.