Hi Tom.
Not at all.
Have sent you a PM.
Regards Bill.

Hi Scratchbuilder,
I hope that I havn't said anything wrong to offend or spoil the way this site works.
I just thought my comments were in somewhat of a constructive nature. I have been a modeler for 63 years now and I don't think I will ever give it up. I still feel that even now I have a lot to learn.
My modeling skills are just basic realy, as everyhting I do has to be by hand as I have no heavy work machines, just 1 basic pilar drill and a couple of bench grinders with grind wheels and wire brush and a polishing wheel. That's my full power side of my modeling machines.
My wife is not amused when I bring another boat or car home, lost count up to now 17 or 18ish. Only about 4 runners now as I have pulled all IC motors out now and about to sell the last 3 IC's hopefully on Ebay.
Also just put two RAF Crash Tenders on Ebay, and one of them is an original Aerokits model I bought in 1994 still in unmade kit form.
Going brushless and still going to fit one or two with brushed one will be a Taycol Double Supermarine .
Sorry to go on.
Once again I hope I have not have been in anyway a problem on here.
TOM aka BOATSHED.

Elvis has left the building! 👍

Peter.
I concur 100%.
It is such a shame when things like this occur.
It spoils the superb good nature of our site.
Regards Bill.

I must say that I can only agree with Steve’s (cormorant) comments in the main. These threads should never have been allowed to get abusive and they certainly should have been edited and the poster warned. There are young people and ladies viewing this site and if for nothing else, these remarks and the people making them should have some form of action taken to stop it immediately. How many highly experienced modellers, such as Steve and Martin, does it take to lose before something is done.
Peter.☹️

Despite his promise he's been darkening our doors again!

Ladies and Gents.
One thousand,two thousand,three thousand … and take a deep breath !!!

For various family reasons I havn’t been able to interact and build much of late on the site,but I still read all the members posts.

As an ex moderator please don’t let personal frustrations be put into print at the expense of others.
We are all different in every way….thank goodness!.
I will not take sides but agree that this thread seems to be going round and round.
A lot of people have offered very good and constructive information which I for one understand.

Perhaps time to put this one to bed to stop anymore upset.
We certainly don’t want to loose valuable members and their building skills.

Chill all.it’s Friday night so have a 🍷🍷
Regards Bill.

Steve, I'm surprised by your remarks.
This site is by far the best for this hobby.
As for adverts, it only takes a small donation to the site and they disappear, I believe what I've learnt on here is worth a lot more than my contributions.
Occasionally we get people who don't understand the information given even in simple turns, but I do agree we shouldn't have to put up with abuse.
Cheers Colin.

I find this now most upsetting. I have been on this site now for 13 years or there abouts. We are all on here to seek out help and information to aid us all in our model boating. When we register we don't put on here that we have any dissabilities in anyway.
Whether it be Learning, Phisical or Mental. 🙉🙈🙊
I am no moderator but shouldn't all the sniping just cease and all of us be the adults that we are. It would be a shame to loose both Maverick and cormorant for pointless remarks. None of us are too old to learn, I myself have learn't a lot from being on here.
I hope I haven't offended anyone with my remarks, we all do this type of hobbyis such a way that we feel we like the most. I am a self confessed speed freak and find I like this the most. I started off with an RAF Crash Tender in 1959 and joined this site when it was the Fireboat Site for this reason but has evolved to accomodate all types of boating. But I had been enjoying all types of speedboat models as I grew older. I have never been in to Battleships, Submarines, Tug boats or Sailing Boats, but I wouldn't tell anyone to change from there perticular style of boating.
Sorry once again if I have offended anybody.
But lets all just be friendly and stay on here and enjoy our Hobby.

Maverick, just try asking a question with Google search. For example, type this in the Google search box,- 'what motor setup should I use in my Fairey Huntsman', --and you'll have all the information you will need. All the information is on the web, either here or elsewhere, and has been for years. The trick with Google search is to try different ways of asking questions, if you only get a few results with a question, try asking it a different way, and you will be surprised what changes.

Asking questions here is fine if you have exhausted other methods, but some questions take a huge amount of time to answer, and can't be done in one sentence. It's very hard for people to know exactly what you want and how much money you have to spend. Have a good look round Hobby King as well, which will give you an idea of prices for different motors and batteries. Also search on Ali Express and Banggood for motors, batteries, shafts etc. Once you get an idea of what's available, it's easier to ask is motor X suitable, will battery Y go with motor X etc,- gives you a starting point,

JB

This, and the 'Watercooling' forum, has just about done it for me. I don't want to read insulting and offensive remarks on a hobby site!
With no moderators to calm things down (even Fireboat, the site owner not bothering), adverts popping up all over the place, it's time to put my ticket in.
Thank you to all members who have given me help, advice and encouragement in the past.
Mind how you go.
Steve

Now that's real advice. Thank you Ron.

Nerys

Try a sailboat. Not motors, only uses four AA batteries, No speed control, only two servos 1 for rudder and 1 for your sails. Easy! The skill then is up to the user to move the boat from the dock and back. Relaxing!

If you’re not interested in building your own, then buy a ready to sail version such as a Dragonforce DF65 or newer.

👎👎👎👎👎I just read all the posts regarding the questions you have asked. Members have answers to the best of their knowledge. It seams you don't like the answers you get. If so go back reread each answer write down the information from the answers that helps.
I myself have a learning disability. You disappoint me bring up a learning disability. I have found almost all my question get an answer. Members go out of their way to help yet you disrespect and insult them for a topic that seams to be going around in circles.
Rick

Hi Maverick,
Please don't get disheartend with your replies. I have been model boating since I was 9 years old. I am now 71 and find it all too confusing with brushless motors.
With standard electric motors, ie, 380 and all the 500/540 series motors I have found just using a 7.5v Tamiya style pack worked fine or even adding in a 12v sealed lead acid battery but these were also good but heavy. The standard size motors have been used in many battery operated screwdrivers and drills. But for many years now they are using brushless motors.
I get totally lost with the eletric sides of modeling. No matter how much I read and listen to people I still don't under stand it all. The only thing I can understand is if I put one in and find it is running the wrong was round, is to just swap an two of the wires around and it will run the way you want it too. Even that I cannot see how that works. To me these brushless motors are just a miniture size 3 Phase motor. That side of the wiring I found this out back in the 1980's when I worked in a dry cleaners and we had to replace a motor in a machine and was told this by the motor supplier.
We are all here to help each other and not all of your replies will make sense, I still find this and I am not a newbie to Boat Modeling. It is only over the last couple of years that I have turned to Brushless and this is because so many area's are now banning IC engines.
For 55 years I used both Diesel and Glow IC engines, electrics I just do not understand. I read what others have suggested to people asking questions like you have and I still get baffled. You just need to make notes and try to filter them out and get somewhere from your notes.
You have only been on here a few months and I have been on here several years and I am still not understanding everyones answers. PLEASE stay on here and give it a CHANCE you will get there.

Every question you've asked you've got an answer! But in many cases you haven't even had the courtesy to acknowledge the information provided or appear to have taken it onboard.

Even with multiple threads asking the same questions folks have been more than patient and tried to help but one can only go so far and I personally feel that a build like the one you propose is beyond your capabilities.

And now with this outburst I fear you won't be getting anymore help!

just reading this i see that on several times most people have tried to help but you questions keep going round and round ?????

Clearly this is not the site for me as a newbie, most question I ask I never get an answer, it appears most of you are to.far up your own arses to help, I can only imagine you treat all people with learning difficulties the same way, dont worry guys i wont darken your doors again. I just hope we never meet in the future.

You are now just being insulting to people who are trying to help you. I, for one, have tried to help you with suggestions to improve your boat but you are just going round in circles. I would suggest a visit to your local model shop to see if they can help. I will NOT answer any more of your queries and I would suggest that other members do the same.
Derek.

Well...I can't find the information I'm asking about so I ask on here!!!!!!.....
Maybe this is the wrong site to help someone new, or maybe you only want to talk to more knowledgable prople, if you can kindly screenshot all my question locations it might, I less it's too much bother. I.jave asked alot of questions many replies don't actually answer my questions, all.one person said it won't work, well enlighten me why not, so show abit of patience and not so.arrogant!!!!!!@

You know Maverick,
You keep asking the same questions over and over again. There are 100 posts on Model Mayhem regarding Huntsman models and 50 post on this site, including the exact same questions you posted two months ago. Those were answer articulately and in detail. The answers are in front of you.

Thanks for your answer, just a couple of questions I cannot find the answer to anywhere else:-

1) why is a drill motor not suitable.

2) what is the difference between a drill motor and a suitable one.

3) I've seen in articles some who use an 850 motor, isn't this a drill motor?

4) what actual spec am I looking for to propel a 48" boat please.

5) I have read several articles that say a less expensive 5200 has as long a running time as a 6000 in reality is this accurate.

Thank you

Completely agree with you, Chris. Nothing less than a big brushless motor etc., would suffice. I only hope that Maverick will follow our advice and he will then have a boat that he can be happy with.
Derek.

Never mind being backed into a corner I think this is going round in circles! Suitable motors etc. have been suggested on other threads and the question keeps being asked on new threads!

This boat will perform well on one motor and it needs to be a big brushless motor, with a decent ESC and batteries as detailed on other threads. The photo shows my 47" Huntsman that I sold to a fellow club member and in which he installed a brushless motor similar to the ones I suggested. As can be seen it goes very well!

Sorry to be blunt but if the budget can't stretch to these then the boat won't perform as hoped and it may be better to get one of the smaller versions that require smaller and cheaper components that will cost less to build overall and still perform well.

Considering the size of your boat andd that it is a planing hull, I think, I doubt that you would be happy with your set up. A 48" hull running on one motor will not likely get out of it's own way. I would endeavor to chat with some folks who have built and run that hull and see what they used for a set up and battery supply.

I think that you are being talked into a corner that, eventually, you will not be happy with and may find that you are still struggling to get any great speed out of your boat. If it was me I would use a brushless outrunner with its appropriate ESC and a 3S lipo battery (11.1volts) or even a 4S battery (14.8volts). You will find that (in general) brushless motors are related to aircraft and cars but are equally suitable for model boats. Have a look at Component Shop website for ideas. As a point of interest I tend to use car ESCs as some of them have a built-in cooling fan. Hope this helps.
Derek.

Ok thanks for that. What about batteries will 8 AA x 3200ma be big enough?
🤔

Most radio systems, unless you are using a large number of servos, draws very little, less than an amp. The real answer to your question is determined by the motor you choose and what it's current draw is under "normal" usage. If you plan to run straight out all the time, then figure your amperage draw based upon the maximum draw of the motor. It probably will not work out to be that much, but for figuring purposes it is an OK starting point. If you are running part throttle most of the time and only occasionally running "in the bucket" so to speak, then your draw will be much less and your running time much greater.
How much does your motor draw???? You can guestimate by setting up your radio and motor, outside of your boat. With your motor fixed in a jig to hold it, throttle up with an ammeter measuring your current. If you put some friction on the motor shaft, your fingers, but carefully, you can simulate the load of the boat. This will give you an idea of your motor's draw. Look at your draw relative to your battery capacity and you should be able to figure, roughly, your available run time. Kinda, sorta.

Another daft question.......how long would 8x NiMH AA 3200ma batteries last running the ESC/ receiver/12v motor. Or do I need more AA batteries?

Hi Maverick
There is a section on this site with all kinds of useful How To articles. Look at
https://model-boats.com/wiki?page=2
which explains very well how to fit suppression capacitors.
I would look at the rest of the articles in these two sections as it will help you as a novice to more fully understand.
Regarding your request for advice on batteries and your subsequent comment re funds available, I would go for a 12v NiMh about 5000 Mahr as this will keep the cost down and should give an acceptable performance. If you want more speed and endurance you can change later when funds permit.
dave976

Got it thanks.👍

Using ceramic disc capacitors, NOT film capacitors, connect one leg of a capacitor to the postive lug of the motor, and connect the other leg to the motor's case. Repeat same for the negative lug of the motor,ie, negative lug and case. Connect one leg of the third capacitor to each motor lug directly.
That's it. If the motor has an aluminum case that will not accept solder, than a screw type hose clamp will suffice to make and hold the electrical contact.

Can you explain or shoe a diagram about the capacitors please.

Adding one point to Dave's post. I would strongly recommend putting 0.01 mf capacitors in the standard star configuration on your motor. Even if you are using a 2.4ghz radio, it will eliminate RFI which can effect those around you who may not,(rare these days but it happens), be operating on 2.4ghz. Personally, most of my fleet has been converted over to 2.4, but I still run several models on 75mhz (USA frequency) and have been interfered with by not so silent motors running next to me. While not required to to so, it is a bit of courtesy that goes a long way.

Thanks Dave

So just to clarify a couple of things

1) Regarding Servos 25g or 35g is about standard.

2) With ESC's its usually 12v in and apart from motor feed, it's 5v out.

3) Its very confusing with motors, so many say suitable for cars..boats..or planes, I did obtain a 540 but was told it was too small, so upgraded to the 795.

4) What is the average running time for a 6000ma battery, could I use a smaller one, at this stage I'm not sure I need fernomimal running time.

5) I am on quite a tight budget, it seems most hobbies I do are expensive, pity parts are not at the prices today that they were when I was 9 or 10....😂😂😂

6) If this craft turns out OK I'll upgrade parts to a better quality

7) I am on a sharp learning curve building boats, so apologise if I ask alot of basic questions, I just want to do this right, as it's all new territory.

👨‍🎨👍

Hi Maverick
You would normally just use one battery to power all in the model. Most ESC's now come with a built in BEC(battery eliminator) which converts the Main power battery to the 5v required by the Rx and servos.

I would use a standard size servo for the rudder. I can understand your confusion regarding the mention of grams - this refers to the pulling force of the servo not its weight. I would suggest you avoid any micro servos as space is not a problem ans any standard servo will work in your model.

With regard to the battery this will be determined by the motor and prop configuration. I have looked for specs for your 795 motor and see it is possibly ok on 12v and free current quite reasonable at just over 0.64 amp. This is a drill motor and there may well be several variants that have much higher current draws. The size and pitch of the prop will have a marked effect on the current draw and is best optimised on the water to give the speed and duration you require.

Others have posted build blogs on this site and have used 11.1v Lipos at 6000mA but you could use NiMhs of a similar rating.

If you wish to see your model running at speed and on the plane You need to keep the weight as light as possible.

dave976