I do prefer Epoxy, especially on wood. Excellent Adherence, 20% give.
As you say it does need to be coated with varnish with ultraviolet filters as sunlight will break epoxy down.
Trev

SP 115 is available here in South Africa. $45 for 1kg and a mixing ratio of 5:2 gives a 30 hardening time. SP 115 is a low viscosity, ultra-clear epoxy laminating system. It has been designed for the manufacture of laminates such as those used in sail and surfboards which are to remain unpainted, and where a very clear finish is required. In this way colourful embedded graphics and attractive fabric weave styles can be kept visible. The material also contains UV filters which give the product its characteristic transparent pale violet/blue colour. These filters both enhance the sharpness of graphics, and, when overcoated with a suitable UV-screening PU varnish, will reduce the tendency of clear laminates to yellow after prolonged exposure to sunlight. The product is particularly suitable for use with glass fibre reinforcements which use fibre sizings optimised for wet-out and laminate clarity, such as RE210D.
It has a 2 year shelf life (unmixed :-) )

I looked up the price and quantity for each.
500 ml Ez Kote $28 cdn 17bps
946 ml Minwax $ 25 cdn
946 ml Varathane $42 cdn

I use Epoxy resin. It is less pungent than polyester resin and is also much harder and more durable. It is the stuff carbon fibre vessels are built with. The advantage is that it can be painted on like varnish and does not require matting unless the laminate are 6 layers or more. It is transparent and gives a nice look to wooden hulls without discolouring the teak or mahogany look of vineer.

Interesting, we do with what is available snd we know how to use. Thus, my woodworking experience being a retired shop teacher.

EZ KOTE I have found to be the easiest to use and does a good job, 20 min to dry and at £18:50 / 500ml is reasonable cost

Ron, Varathane for us over here is very expensive at £ 39:00 1/2 pint

You need to fill all the holes and small strips of balsa can easily be forced into the gaps with some wood glue. Once dry sand flat to the final finish. As others have said finishing epoxy or EZ Kote work well. You can also add fine glass cloth with layup resin for a very strong and water resistant hull.
I use G4 polyeurethane pond sealer (also used to seal Garage floors) on both the inside and outside of my wooden hulls and decks. You do need to follow the instructions, wear the proper PPE and use in a well ventilated area. Once dry it can be sanded to a glass like finish.
dave976

Have any of you tried Varathane, fast drying Professional clear finish? Or Minwax oil-modified Polyurethane?
Both are fast drying and water clean up, low odour, super durability and even great on floors.

Agree with Roger G in sealing his boats. Along with finishing epoxy I also us EZ KOTE finishing product. The thing I like it dries in a short time and is water clean up when done but gives a solid finish.
Rick

Hi Robo,

On the outside of the hull, I usually give my wood two coats of finishing resin thinned 30% with methylated spirits. Sanded between coats with 400 grade paper. On the hull I add to the first coat of finishing resin a layer of
Lightweight glass fibre 1oz / sqr yard. I obtain this from Deluxe Materials Ltd .

On the inside of the hull I usually give one coat of normal fibre glass resin not diluted.

Both the above work well for me.

Regards,
Roger G, Stafford