The main problem is the notors and the current/volts required.

You can now get 2500MaH NiMh rechargeable pencells with tags which if made (Soldered) into a single bespoke battery would fit alongside the motors and run aft. Should be plenty of power there.

Cheap model helicopters have some very small and powerful motors and are often available very cheaply (free to a good home) as they often break and are not repairable. They are low voltage as well.

You can use gears to make contra rotating shafts from one motor quite easily, sourcing the gears is the problem. Scrap r/c model cars may be a cheap source, even the helicopters. Technobots also sell a range but at a cost.

Hope this helps. 😀

Thanks Dave. I did have a thought this morning, I should have weighed the original boat in its sailing trim, batteries and all, and put it in the test tank before I started so I had a datum to work from. I'll be blowed if I'm going to strip the boat down for this but I'll put all the bits in the hull of the wreck and see how that floats/weighs. Finding some batteries might be a problem though.

I also have a cunning plan on driving the contra-rotating props from one motor but this will need throwing a few beer tokens at it so don't hold your breath. I value my trips to the therapy centre to talk rubbish with like minded individuals. 😛

You'll have to put a blog up when you do start work on them so everyone can see how a 'pro' tackles it. 👍

Well done. 👍 The system works and you have solved the rudder problem with access through the rear floor base. Your Build Blog is excellent and I recommend anyone interested in doing a restoration takes a look.

Weight is always going to be a problem and possibly slightly smaller and lighter motors would help but as this will always be a calm water model that may not be too problematic.

You have inspired me to start work on my two models, but I will have to finish some existing projects first to make some room. 😀

Well, the beans have been spilled, all over a build blog 👍 . I still don't understand why the blogs read back to front - begin at the end and end at the beginning - and uploading pics from a Mac is a problem, but if I can put steering into a Victory industries .................. 😎

Always was a heavy boat, I had one as a youngster, no R/c then tho' but large & heavy drycells.

The prop angle is wrong so not surprised to see the flora on the bow. Moving the batteries well aft should help. The props are quite large and this may be a problem with smaller motors. Have you considered using one motor and a reduction belt drive as originally fitted? Modern motors pack much more power and efficiency than the veritable Mighty Midget so should work just as well.

Still waiting with eager anticipation for your M1c steering system and hope your motor/battery/balance problems are soon sorted. 😀

Well, mixed fortunes. The Cunning Plan Mk1c - steering system, small fire boats for the use of worked a treat 👍 Unfortunately the overall weight proved more of a problem than I expected. There was power a plenty and she went like the clappers but getting there was a bit nerve wracking. The angle of the props forced the bow down and I had to be careful until the hull generated enough lift to get the bow up and a give nice bow wave. You can see the problem in the water shot, the green stuff on the foredeck is some pond weed we're plagued with at the moment.

I'll be hunting for smaller, lighter 6v motors and battery holders so that I can use AA's and distribute the weight better. Then I'll go public with a solution I'm reasonably happy with, given my limited experience and kit available.

Sounds like you are nearly ready to spill the beans on your system.

Weight will always be a problem with this size of boat. The standard props are really far too big and will need a powerful motor to provide the power.
The original uses a reduction unit, possibly 3:1 but would have struggled with the Mighty Midget used.

If brushless is not your thing then there are some modern small and light brushed motors that would work with smaller props and could be powered by AA batteries (2300MaH). 12 v is easily obtained without too great a weight increase.

I am out all weekend displaying at a model show so no sailing this weekend 👎

Never seen a davit on one of the Victory models. Basically its a curved H piece of steel so a bit of platicard would make a reasonable job. There are pics of models on this site showing the davit so you should be able to fabricate something.

Good luck with Mk 1C 😀

I wasn't commenting on your high tech approach Dave but my lack of it. The job would be a lot easier if I had the right bits lying around and the right tools and know how 😯 As an example, bent paperclips play a major part in my 'engineering' 😁

Any road up, the initial results of my cunning plan are looking good. The steering works but the overall weight of the motors and batteries is quite high. I've not fitted the kit into the complete boat yet but built everything up in the wreck with ability to simply transfer it when everything looks right.

The motors are a couple of 6v jobbies that I bought cheap a while back and have plenty of drive to make the boat show great promise in the test tank (bath). BUT they weigh in at 40g each. I do have a couple of 9v motors that are smaller and only weigh 19g but didn't get used as I don't have any 9v battery packs. With just 6v they didn't pack enough punch. I have just found an old AA battery holder that takes 6 batteries so that will be the next test - fingers crossed.

The rudder system, Cunning Plan Mk 1, needed some development leading to the loss of at least 2 paperclips 😭 and the addition of some extra bits of plastic but the Cunning Plan Mk 1c does it for me.

So to sum up 'all' I need to do is put the power plant on a diet and we're there. The current set up does everything I've wanted it to do for the last 50 years but I would only trust it on a very flat water so if push comes to shove it will do. Unfortunately I'm otherwise engaged this weekend so you'll have to hold your breath for a few days but by this time next week I should have the full story with pictures as a build log that I will post after a full test on the lake (not the bath). 👍

BTW, does anybody have a spare davit for sale, or dimensions and photo so I can make one?

Sorry if I complicated matters for you. it was not my intention and I got carried away with my musings.

I do care passionately about my projects and this has been on my agenda for some years so I will look forward to your cunning plan.

I have to say Dave that all your high tech solutions make me feel like Thag with a home made flint axe about to go and hunt a mammoth. Brushless motors, lipo batteries and delrin split bearings - I had to Google most of that to understand it 😟

I do, however, have what I think is a cunning plan. That said I will only divulge the cunningness of this cunning plan if it actually works and the boat steers and stays afloat. (It is a painfully simple cunning plan)

Watch this space........

Thanks for that info
The rudders are clearly in an enclosed tube so do not penetrate into the hull. They are also placed too far back and the prop tubes are also in the wrong place.
The problem is still the lack of space below the well deck to make a good rudder linkage. Water ingress through the rudder tube will be a problem if the rudder tube are below the waterline. I believe I will have to make a split bearing out of nylon/delrin and use O-rings to make the seal.
The alternative is to put the rudder tube thro the rear well deck and arrange linkage above the waterline, and use a push/pull linkage.
Probably why I have never progressed as every option involves drilling the hull.
I am keen to hear how you are intending to modify your boat. I quite sure that if either of us comes up with a working solution many will follow!
Please do keep us informed 👍

Here are a couple of pics of the rudder mountings under the well deck. The strip of tape marks level of the bottom of the well deck and the card 'shelf' shows what you will see of the top of the existing rudder bosses if you cut a hole leaving a lip around 2mm in the floor. The clearance above the existing rudder bosses is just over 4mm.

The other bosses are where the screws holding the P brackets go.

HI Dave
The only way to do the rudders is to cut into the well deck. I'll try to get a photo on here tomorrow of what it looks like below the deck from the one I have taken the whole deck off. Then you can judge how big the hole needs to be.

BTW, I wouldn't recommend anyone taking the whole deck off unless they have a very thin cutting wheel and lots of patience. Refitting it would be a nightmare, for me at any rate, as the original join is formed by glueing the hull top into a groove moulded into the underside of the deck. On my scrapper the glue had failed in a couple of places but was very solid in others.

The best way to replace the deck would be to carefully dig the remains of the top of the hull out of the groove and then make sure the top of the hull was straight and stick it back into the groove, but it could be a problem around the bow. As the hull is flared it will be a bit smaller after you have cut it away from the deck.

HI smiggy
I have two of these and intend at some tome to convert both to r/c.

I believe I will use a single brushless motor, Esc and Lipo battery with minature rudder servo. This as a small boat and weight will need to be kept to an absolute minimum.

The problem as you will know is how to connect the rudder control.

My current thinking is that I will need to get access by the rear well (aft end), possibly by cutting an access hatch, fitting new rudder tubes and making a snake connection running alongside the well so that I can fit a small servo near the motor. I intend to produce a fast cast resin patch to cover and seal the access hole using silicon to make the joint watertight.

The prop tubes are mounted in rubber grommets and will not be robust enough for my purpose so I will also replace both, but that is not as difficult as the rudders.

Good to hear that you have commenced your conversion and I look forward to hearing how your are progressing.

A few years ago I posted a question about these conversions and got a few replies and encouragement but no actual help. A lot like this article. it reminded me of the Monty Python 'how to play the flute' sketch. You blow down the hole and wiggle your fingers over the holes, next week we'll show you how to convert the Victory industries etc.

I have just started to actually go for it and when I know it works I'll spill the beans here, promise. I bought a wreck off Ebay and took the deck off so I could see exactly what the issues are rather than attack my beloved boat (owned from new) blind. I've got the motors fitted and a pair of nice Prop Shop brass props as I was advised to do as the originals are quite large and take a bit of power to turn. Anyway, watch this space........

After over 50 years I will achieve another dream.