Thames Sailing Barges
Hi Brian hope you're getting better, didn't receive any emails yet, cheers Colin.
Fair winds and calm waters,
COLIN.
COLIN.
Thames Sailing Barges
Thames Sailing Barges
Brian
I have not seen the drawings; did they end up in space. if so could please resend
Thanks
bob
I have not seen the drawings; did they end up in space. if so could please resend
Thanks
bob
Thames Sailing Barges
I've sent you one too.
Nerys
Nerys
When the winds before the rain, soon you may make sail again, but when the rain's before the wind, tops'l sheets and halyards mind
Thames Sailing Barges
I am surprised at that, I have had no problems contacting the TSB Trust. Pity because I think the James Piper design is one of the more successful as a model. I have built four of them and wouldn't repeat something which didn't work.
Cheers, Nerys
Cheers, Nerys
When the winds before the rain, soon you may make sail again, but when the rain's before the wind, tops'l sheets and halyards mind
Liked by bikerbob
Thames Sailing Barges
Brian
Sent email address to your pm account.
Hope the hospital visit is nothing serious
Bob
Sent email address to your pm account.
Hope the hospital visit is nothing serious
Bob
Thames Sailing Barges
HI pm me your email address as they are all on A4 sheets I can email them to you save the postage
Brian
Brian
Thames Sailing Barges
Pleased to see that you are being helped in your quest for the plans of a model barge. The Thames Sailing Barge Trust have the plans of six real barges available for sale but hopefully you are receiving the plans as adapted for a model i.e advice on keel etc.
Please keep us informed of your progress with this project, we are always interested and will give any advice you may need.
Cheers, Nerys
Please keep us informed of your progress with this project, we are always interested and will give any advice you may need.
Cheers, Nerys
When the winds before the rain, soon you may make sail again, but when the rain's before the wind, tops'l sheets and halyards mind
Liked by Colin H
Thames Sailing Barges
Thank you for the reply; at 72 I am not far behind. I have tried to contact the barge trust group with no success; is this who you refer to. If you could send a copy it would great; advise as to what I owe for postage.
Address is
Robert Wager
37 Rodgers Drive
Stirling Ontario
Canada
K0K3E0
Thank you for the help
Robert
Address is
Robert Wager
37 Rodgers Drive
Stirling Ontario
Canada
K0K3E0
Thank you for the help
Robert
Liked by Colin H
Thames Sailing Barges
look on the Thames sailing barge site there is a plan of a barge for free download if you have problems let me know and I will send you a copy I am now 73 and built mine when I was 15 been refurbished a few times
It started as a modeling program on BBC tv Yours Brian
It started as a modeling program on BBC tv Yours Brian
Liked by Colin H
Thames Sailing Barges
Hi Bob,
It's very much a question of what sort of daggerboard you intend using, there's no hard and fast rule, just make the box to suit the daggerboard. On a 30" barge, I have used the bulb and fin from a ready to run model yacht and it worked fine. I have also used a strip of 1/4" brass which needed a heftier box than the bulb and fin. Mastman make firbreglass mouldings for a keel, but only for 42" barges. This you fill with lead shot and resin to the required weight. They are bolted on through a strengthening piece inside the hull and can thus be removed for travel or display. These are the most popular answer. Position of the keel or daggerboard. Just abaft the mast, inside the main hatch so that you can get to it. If you are technically minded you will probably want to work out the CLR and the Cof E. I'm not and just put it where it looks right. As like the bargebuilders of old, I work on the adage, that if it looks right, it probably is. All my barges sail alright.
Cheers, Nerys
It's very much a question of what sort of daggerboard you intend using, there's no hard and fast rule, just make the box to suit the daggerboard. On a 30" barge, I have used the bulb and fin from a ready to run model yacht and it worked fine. I have also used a strip of 1/4" brass which needed a heftier box than the bulb and fin. Mastman make firbreglass mouldings for a keel, but only for 42" barges. This you fill with lead shot and resin to the required weight. They are bolted on through a strengthening piece inside the hull and can thus be removed for travel or display. These are the most popular answer. Position of the keel or daggerboard. Just abaft the mast, inside the main hatch so that you can get to it. If you are technically minded you will probably want to work out the CLR and the Cof E. I'm not and just put it where it looks right. As like the bargebuilders of old, I work on the adage, that if it looks right, it probably is. All my barges sail alright.
Cheers, Nerys
When the winds before the rain, soon you may make sail again, but when the rain's before the wind, tops'l sheets and halyards mind
Thames Sailing Barges
I'll tell you anyway, Doug,
The farmyard, cows and horses.
Nerys
The farmyard, cows and horses.
Nerys
When the winds before the rain, soon you may make sail again, but when the rain's before the wind, tops'l sheets and halyards mind
Liked by RNinMunich and pressonreguardless
Thames Sailing Barges
please remember barge sails were white when new and coloured after a few months work
Thames Sailing Barges
Think I will pass on traditional sail dressing; but very interesting history.
Liked by Nerys and RNinMunich
Thames Sailing Barges
Hi Dave,
When I first started, the sails were still dressed traditionally. They would be laid out on a large grassy patch, then several men would come along with the dressing. This was a mixture of Red ochre, Cod oil, Urine and salt water. It was applied to the canvas with long arm brushes. left to dry, which it didn't and would then be rolled up, taken to the barge and bent back on If the sail had previously been dressed, the men carrying it would be a reddish colour by the time they laid the sail out, but by the time they had taken the sail back to the barge, would be completely red from head to foot. Even stowing the topsail or the foresail, one got plastered in the muck and resembled a Red Indian. The dressing never really dried. Sails were usually dressed when the barge went on the yard for a refit. Nøwadays, more modern dyes are used which are fast
A barges vangs are very important because they control the upper part of the rig, i.e. the topsail and do not allow the sprit and thus the topsail to sag down to loo'ard. They help retain an aerodynamic shape to the combined main and topsails.
Cheers,
Nerys
When I first started, the sails were still dressed traditionally. They would be laid out on a large grassy patch, then several men would come along with the dressing. This was a mixture of Red ochre, Cod oil, Urine and salt water. It was applied to the canvas with long arm brushes. left to dry, which it didn't and would then be rolled up, taken to the barge and bent back on If the sail had previously been dressed, the men carrying it would be a reddish colour by the time they laid the sail out, but by the time they had taken the sail back to the barge, would be completely red from head to foot. Even stowing the topsail or the foresail, one got plastered in the muck and resembled a Red Indian. The dressing never really dried. Sails were usually dressed when the barge went on the yard for a refit. Nøwadays, more modern dyes are used which are fast
A barges vangs are very important because they control the upper part of the rig, i.e. the topsail and do not allow the sprit and thus the topsail to sag down to loo'ard. They help retain an aerodynamic shape to the combined main and topsails.
Cheers,
Nerys
When the winds before the rain, soon you may make sail again, but when the rain's before the wind, tops'l sheets and halyards mind
Liked by RNinMunich and dave976 and
Thames Sailing Barges
Hi Bob, I was speaking generally when suggesting trips to the East Coast, but I am sure you could find lots of photos on line and learn a lot from them. I hope the information I gave will be of some use to you, but if you want clarification of anything, I will do my best to help. I agree with you, make a long narrow box and stick solid carved ends on to it, simplifies things . A lot of people do that..
Best of luck,
Nerys
Best of luck,
Nerys
When the winds before the rain, soon you may make sail again, but when the rain's before the wind, tops'l sheets and halyards mind
Liked by Colin H
Thames Sailing Barges
Thank you for all the information; much appreciated. Roycv has provided some food for thought I am considering (build a box and add a bow and stern). This would save some work. You mention traveling the coast to view some real barges; unfortunetly I live in Canada so air flight rules that out.
Bikerbob
Bikerbob
Liked by Nerys
Thames Sailing Barges
Hi Nerys
Thanks for sharing this very interesting info on Thames Sailing Barges. It is always good to get first hand information from someone who sailed and worked on a vessel as they know the barges inside out.
I was particularly interested in the description of the sails being used white before being dressed. I had never really understood what the vang was really used for so again this is very welcome.
As regards models we have a couple in our club and both require a keel and yes a motor is fitted, mainly to keep out of the weed round the lake side. The keels are removeable so don't distract if displaying the models.
dave976
Thanks for sharing this very interesting info on Thames Sailing Barges. It is always good to get first hand information from someone who sailed and worked on a vessel as they know the barges inside out.
I was particularly interested in the description of the sails being used white before being dressed. I had never really understood what the vang was really used for so again this is very welcome.
As regards models we have a couple in our club and both require a keel and yes a motor is fitted, mainly to keep out of the weed round the lake side. The keels are removeable so don't distract if displaying the models.
dave976
Thames Sailing Barges
Hi Nerys, I had a barge for a short time donated to the club I tried her but passed her on to another. Too heavy for me and maybe I had a dodgy (sailing) model. I thought I saw a Celia Jane sailing nicely but I must have missed the good ones!
I do have a fishing boat (the green hull in My Harbour) she is shaped like a barge, fine with the wind but with a permanently down dagger board and internally ballasted is a bit of a handful.
Thanks for all the information
regards
Roy
I do have a fishing boat (the green hull in My Harbour) she is shaped like a barge, fine with the wind but with a permanently down dagger board and internally ballasted is a bit of a handful.
Thanks for all the information
regards
Roy
Thames Sailing Barges
So much information. Anything I say is based on what I have found after building several model sailing barges as well as a couple of auxiliaries and motor barges In my youth, when sailing barges still earned a living carrying cargo, I spent years as mate and skipper.
Generic barge or scale model, who cares, most real barges were built by eye, very few were actually designed on paper, some were built from a carved half model. Performance varied enormously. Of the plans of model barges extant today, Celia Jane is renowned for being a poor sailer. As far as fitting a motor is concerned, some modellers do, some don't. Real sailing barges didn't have motors until roughly post war when it became popular to fit an engine, after that, the barge was rarely sailed. Some just had the mizzen removed, some had the topmast and topsail taken away. Didn't matter , a sail was rarely used. Pure sail was still in use into and after the 'fifties, in 1954, there were about thirty still trading under sail alone. Cargo carrying, my little Nellie carried about 100 tons of cargo, she was about as small as they get apart from some specially built barges, such as Lady of the Lea or Cygnet. Most barges carried about 120 to 150 tons. Goldsmiths built some 180 and 200 tonners in steel, then Everards had their four steel 300 ton barges.(One of which, the Will is still with us) There were a few 180 ton wooden barges, the Beryl of Faversham for one, I was mate on her for two years.
Sheeting the sails. On a full size barge the foresail was sheeted with a chain to a horse going right across the fore part of the barge, just afore the mast. It was not adjustable.It went across the barge to the side on which it filled. When tacking, the mate held the sail to windward in order to help blow her head round . I make my models the same way, the sail just blows across to the correct side when tacking.The main sheet comes from the clew of the sail through two large blocks to ring on the horse, again this goes all across the barge abaft the main hatch. This also controls the topsail. Also controlling the main and topsail is the vang, pronounced wang, which is a wire going from the end of the sprit on both sides, down to a tackle on both sides of the barge. This allows the sprit to be eased off when running and hauled in when tacking. In a model barge most people combine the falls from vang and mainsheet into one, so that only one servo is needed. I have found that a servo with an arm works quite well, though many use a drum winch. The mizzen is of little use as a driving sail, the sheet goes down to the rudder and it is mainly used as an aid to steering when tacking.
Many people build models plank on frame, but often using balsa carved to shape for the two ends. There are also a number of fibreglass hulls on the market, a firm called Mastman are good suppliers and make hulls for a number of named barges. I found their James Piper to be very successful.
Sails. If the sails look crinkly, they have been badly cut, set properly, a barges sails are as flat as on any yacht. I make mine out of polycotton, which is readily available in a number of shades on E bay. Many people use cotton then die it.. All the sails on a barge would be the same colour brown, except the staysail which was a light weather sail left undressed, so white. New sails were left white for a year or two before being dressed. Topsails very often had either the owners badge or name painted on or sometimes advertising.
Steering. The usual thing is to build an arm out to one side from the top of the rudder and connect with a rod to an arm on the steering servo. You can use an arm on both sides. Both work well.
Keels. A barge has a flat bottom with leeboards to prevent making leeway (being blown sideways). She will sail well loaded or empty. A model is not like that. People have tried to sail models ballasting the hull and using leeboards. It doesn't work. You need a keel. Weight, about 6 or 8 pounds in a 42" barge. bulb and fin works, but a fibreglass moulded keel filled with lead is good. These are available from a small firm called Mastman, who also make fibreglass hulls and a wide range of fittings that are only found on barges. Their email is ktinklin1592@yahoo.com
If you are building a model barge, I suggest you look at as many pictures of barges as possible or if you live somewhere on the East Coast, go and look at the real thing. they are dotted around, there are always some on Maldon Quay, Ipswich dock, Iron Wharf, Faversham are the traditional home for others. If you are really interested, join the Thames Sailing Barge Trust., they , like many other barge owners, take passengers on trips ranging from half days to a week on my old command, Centaur, now 127 years old and still going strong.
Best of luck.
Nerys
Generic barge or scale model, who cares, most real barges were built by eye, very few were actually designed on paper, some were built from a carved half model. Performance varied enormously. Of the plans of model barges extant today, Celia Jane is renowned for being a poor sailer. As far as fitting a motor is concerned, some modellers do, some don't. Real sailing barges didn't have motors until roughly post war when it became popular to fit an engine, after that, the barge was rarely sailed. Some just had the mizzen removed, some had the topmast and topsail taken away. Didn't matter , a sail was rarely used. Pure sail was still in use into and after the 'fifties, in 1954, there were about thirty still trading under sail alone. Cargo carrying, my little Nellie carried about 100 tons of cargo, she was about as small as they get apart from some specially built barges, such as Lady of the Lea or Cygnet. Most barges carried about 120 to 150 tons. Goldsmiths built some 180 and 200 tonners in steel, then Everards had their four steel 300 ton barges.(One of which, the Will is still with us) There were a few 180 ton wooden barges, the Beryl of Faversham for one, I was mate on her for two years.
Sheeting the sails. On a full size barge the foresail was sheeted with a chain to a horse going right across the fore part of the barge, just afore the mast. It was not adjustable.It went across the barge to the side on which it filled. When tacking, the mate held the sail to windward in order to help blow her head round . I make my models the same way, the sail just blows across to the correct side when tacking.The main sheet comes from the clew of the sail through two large blocks to ring on the horse, again this goes all across the barge abaft the main hatch. This also controls the topsail. Also controlling the main and topsail is the vang, pronounced wang, which is a wire going from the end of the sprit on both sides, down to a tackle on both sides of the barge. This allows the sprit to be eased off when running and hauled in when tacking. In a model barge most people combine the falls from vang and mainsheet into one, so that only one servo is needed. I have found that a servo with an arm works quite well, though many use a drum winch. The mizzen is of little use as a driving sail, the sheet goes down to the rudder and it is mainly used as an aid to steering when tacking.
Many people build models plank on frame, but often using balsa carved to shape for the two ends. There are also a number of fibreglass hulls on the market, a firm called Mastman are good suppliers and make hulls for a number of named barges. I found their James Piper to be very successful.
Sails. If the sails look crinkly, they have been badly cut, set properly, a barges sails are as flat as on any yacht. I make mine out of polycotton, which is readily available in a number of shades on E bay. Many people use cotton then die it.. All the sails on a barge would be the same colour brown, except the staysail which was a light weather sail left undressed, so white. New sails were left white for a year or two before being dressed. Topsails very often had either the owners badge or name painted on or sometimes advertising.
Steering. The usual thing is to build an arm out to one side from the top of the rudder and connect with a rod to an arm on the steering servo. You can use an arm on both sides. Both work well.
Keels. A barge has a flat bottom with leeboards to prevent making leeway (being blown sideways). She will sail well loaded or empty. A model is not like that. People have tried to sail models ballasting the hull and using leeboards. It doesn't work. You need a keel. Weight, about 6 or 8 pounds in a 42" barge. bulb and fin works, but a fibreglass moulded keel filled with lead is good. These are available from a small firm called Mastman, who also make fibreglass hulls and a wide range of fittings that are only found on barges. Their email is ktinklin1592@yahoo.com
If you are building a model barge, I suggest you look at as many pictures of barges as possible or if you live somewhere on the East Coast, go and look at the real thing. they are dotted around, there are always some on Maldon Quay, Ipswich dock, Iron Wharf, Faversham are the traditional home for others. If you are really interested, join the Thames Sailing Barge Trust., they , like many other barge owners, take passengers on trips ranging from half days to a week on my old command, Centaur, now 127 years old and still going strong.
Best of luck.
Nerys
When the winds before the rain, soon you may make sail again, but when the rain's before the wind, tops'l sheets and halyards mind
Liked by RNinMunich and pressonreguardless and
Thames Sailing Barges
The sails make or mar the barge they are quite tough to feel although I would not go down the horse manure and blood route for colour. Often the topsail was a different colour and many had the company name or logo on them.
They look crinkly even when in use but check with Nerys, he was the professional.
You should find one of the old Sanwa winches will more than pull in the sails even with a good wind blowing. Make sure it is screwed down solidly to the hull. You won't get an arm winch as these are long gone but the rotating winch will work fine. More than one way of doing it and info is on the Internet.
regards
Roy
They look crinkly even when in use but check with Nerys, he was the professional.
You should find one of the old Sanwa winches will more than pull in the sails even with a good wind blowing. Make sure it is screwed down solidly to the hull. You won't get an arm winch as these are long gone but the rotating winch will work fine. More than one way of doing it and info is on the Internet.
regards
Roy
Liked by Colin H
Thames Sailing Barges
Hi Robert I think you may make things difficult fo yourself if you go for plank on frame. These vessels in full size had long straight sides it really is a box with a sharp end. The same works for model size as well.
I would suggest a construction of a box with a bulkhead at each end and a stern with a finishing bulkhead and a bow section similar and glue them all together.
Many were fitted with engines and a propellor and it helps if the boat is out there and lunch is calling!
They had to get maybe 150 to 200 tons of cargo on board, we found downstairs they had converted this area into a kitchen a small servery and there were 24 x 4 seat tables for guests.
The bangers and mash was very good! It was a chilly day and my daughter found the part of the hatchcover over the kitchen which we shared and it was most comforting.
regards
Roy
I would suggest a construction of a box with a bulkhead at each end and a stern with a finishing bulkhead and a bow section similar and glue them all together.
Many were fitted with engines and a propellor and it helps if the boat is out there and lunch is calling!
They had to get maybe 150 to 200 tons of cargo on board, we found downstairs they had converted this area into a kitchen a small servery and there were 24 x 4 seat tables for guests.
The bangers and mash was very good! It was a chilly day and my daughter found the part of the hatchcover over the kitchen which we shared and it was most comforting.
regards
Roy
Liked by Colin H
Thames Sailing Barges
Roycv
Thank you for the reply
I may have lead you astray using the term generic. I intend to make it scale in general conformation of all barges and not of a individual ship. Main reason to redraw is that the Ceclia Jane is built bread and butter and I wish to use plank on bulkhead which I have used before. Glad to hear that the weight is around 20 lbs as if verifies my calculation of 22 lbs; Ceclia drawing indicates 43 lbs which would have been a no go. I am sure I will have many questions in the future
Bikerbob
Thank you for the reply
I may have lead you astray using the term generic. I intend to make it scale in general conformation of all barges and not of a individual ship. Main reason to redraw is that the Ceclia Jane is built bread and butter and I wish to use plank on bulkhead which I have used before. Glad to hear that the weight is around 20 lbs as if verifies my calculation of 22 lbs; Ceclia drawing indicates 43 lbs which would have been a no go. I am sure I will have many questions in the future
Bikerbob
Liked by Colin H
Thames Sailing Barges
Hi Robert, at 1 : 24 scale the barges work well without altering them so not sure why you are doing a generic one. They could be sailing with water up to the deck line or empty so the water level of the hull in the water is incidental.
I know the designer of Celia Jane and he is very precise and you could do a lot worse than following his plan. I have seen one sailing and they sail very well.
Most of the models sail with a weighted keel underneath maybe 6 to 8 pounds in weight and about 8 inches in depth.
You need the surface area of the keel to stop drifting sideways. The barge boards work at full size but do not have much effect at this scale.
The sails will have been balanced for Celia Jane so if you change the dimensions you are on your own with a sail plan.
Generally the jib and the main sail go out in parallel. The mizzen sail less so but you may need to experiment here.
Locate the hull exit points for the sheets beneath the point at which you attach the sheet to the boom. The topsail you might want to make removable depending on wind strength, but otherwise it follows the mainsail.
The weight is going to come out at up to 20 pounds so you can build 'heavy'. In simple terms you need a bow and a stern section and these are joined together by side planks and the bottom plank.
The difficult part is making the rudder look right, if you look on the Internet you will see it was a very complex piece of equipment using left and right hand threaded traversers to work the rudder.
There is loads of detail about the deck detail and winch on the net. Simulating canvas can be done with covering a wood shape with ladies stockings material using varnish to keep it in place and then trimming it off.
I was on a Thames Barge for the day 7 months ago it was the once famous Will Everard, the family did not allow the name Everard to be sold with the barge so she is just known as Will. I have some full size sailing experience and was allowed to pilot the barge under power for half an hour or so. There was very little wind that day.
Picture is of my daughter driving and the other is they opened Tower Bridge for us to go through.
Good luck and to be honest it is just as easy to make a scale model as to make a 'generic' one.
Good luck with the build
Roy
I know the designer of Celia Jane and he is very precise and you could do a lot worse than following his plan. I have seen one sailing and they sail very well.
Most of the models sail with a weighted keel underneath maybe 6 to 8 pounds in weight and about 8 inches in depth.
You need the surface area of the keel to stop drifting sideways. The barge boards work at full size but do not have much effect at this scale.
The sails will have been balanced for Celia Jane so if you change the dimensions you are on your own with a sail plan.
Generally the jib and the main sail go out in parallel. The mizzen sail less so but you may need to experiment here.
Locate the hull exit points for the sheets beneath the point at which you attach the sheet to the boom. The topsail you might want to make removable depending on wind strength, but otherwise it follows the mainsail.
The weight is going to come out at up to 20 pounds so you can build 'heavy'. In simple terms you need a bow and a stern section and these are joined together by side planks and the bottom plank.
The difficult part is making the rudder look right, if you look on the Internet you will see it was a very complex piece of equipment using left and right hand threaded traversers to work the rudder.
There is loads of detail about the deck detail and winch on the net. Simulating canvas can be done with covering a wood shape with ladies stockings material using varnish to keep it in place and then trimming it off.
I was on a Thames Barge for the day 7 months ago it was the once famous Will Everard, the family did not allow the name Everard to be sold with the barge so she is just known as Will. I have some full size sailing experience and was allowed to pilot the barge under power for half an hour or so. There was very little wind that day.
Picture is of my daughter driving and the other is they opened Tower Bridge for us to go through.
Good luck and to be honest it is just as easy to make a scale model as to make a 'generic' one.
Good luck with the build
Roy
Liked by Colin H
Thames Sailing Barges
Thank you for your reply and offer of guidance; much appreciated
I was able to locate a drawing of Champion Class and Giralda barge and Model Boat article on building Ceclia Jane for reference. To this end I have drawn a generic barge in AutoCad at 1:24 with the following dimensions LOA 42“ beam 11“ Draft 3“ top of bulwark sheer to underside of keel 5“. 5" dimension comes from Ceclia Jane but appears excessive when compared with the other two. Does draft sound reasonable? Can you supply a ballpark weight for a barge this size? What sails are typically under RC control? Can you supply a winch sheeting diagram; also a deck layout showing sheet exit points.
Robert Wager
I was able to locate a drawing of Champion Class and Giralda barge and Model Boat article on building Ceclia Jane for reference. To this end I have drawn a generic barge in AutoCad at 1:24 with the following dimensions LOA 42“ beam 11“ Draft 3“ top of bulwark sheer to underside of keel 5“. 5" dimension comes from Ceclia Jane but appears excessive when compared with the other two. Does draft sound reasonable? Can you supply a ballpark weight for a barge this size? What sails are typically under RC control? Can you supply a winch sheeting diagram; also a deck layout showing sheet exit points.
Robert Wager
Liked by Colin H
Thames Sailing Barges
Me too!
Nerys
Nerys
When the winds before the rain, soon you may make sail again, but when the rain's before the wind, tops'l sheets and halyards mind
Thames Sailing Barges
Hi Roy,
Yes, Richard was a marvellous source of information, it was a great pity when he decided to resign, he's never been replaced. Apart from the building side of barges, he also used to organise a full programme of racing for model barges and of course, that's all gone, though I see, as chairman of the Phoenix Marine model Club he has arranged a model barge meeting at the Silvermere Golf Club in Surrey for 26th June.
Cheers, Nerys
Yes, Richard was a marvellous source of information, it was a great pity when he decided to resign, he's never been replaced. Apart from the building side of barges, he also used to organise a full programme of racing for model barges and of course, that's all gone, though I see, as chairman of the Phoenix Marine model Club he has arranged a model barge meeting at the Silvermere Golf Club in Surrey for 26th June.
Cheers, Nerys
When the winds before the rain, soon you may make sail again, but when the rain's before the wind, tops'l sheets and halyards mind
Thames Sailing Barges
Hi Nerys I usually check a recommended site before mentioning it but I assumed! and we all know what that means.
regards
Roy
regards
Roy
Thames Sailing Barges
Hi Nerys I usually check a recommended site before mentioning it but I assumed! nd we all know what that means.
regards
Roy
regards
Roy
Thames Sailing Barges
Hello Nerys thanks for the update I used to see Richard at the various exhibitions and he used to exhibit at our own one in St. Albans. I first met him at the old ME exhibition where we queued together to collect our Bronze Medals.
I have one of his folders a collection of info on building model barges excellent document.
Regards
Roy
I have one of his folders a collection of info on building model barges excellent document.
Regards
Roy
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Thames Sailing Barges
I'm afraid AMBO ceased to exist some months ago, which is a great pity, whether Richard Chesney, the former secretary still has any plans, I do not know, but it is possible. Suggest you look up the Thames Sailing Barge Trust online. They can supply several plans as well as owning two preserved barges, Centaur and Cabby. Special, interest, I was the last skipper of Centaur before she was sold out of trade in 1955. you could also look up a company called Sarik, who do the plans and part kits of a famous racing barge Veronica. As far as scales, there are two in use, 1/24 and 1/33, that equates to approximately 42" and 30". I've built in both sizes. There are more 42" built than the smaller 30", though the smaller barges are easier to transport. I build all mine with lowering masts now, they go in the car easier.
Best of luck, ask as many questions as you like, I'm a barge nut, so am only too pleased to help someone new to barges.
Cheers, Nerys
Best of luck, ask as many questions as you like, I'm a barge nut, so am only too pleased to help someone new to barges.
Cheers, Nerys
When the winds before the rain, soon you may make sail again, but when the rain's before the wind, tops'l sheets and halyards mind
Thames Sailing Barges
Hi if you google AMBO Association of Model Barge Owners, they are active and have lots of plans and can advise on the various types of barge as they evolved. You may be aware there were coastal barges as well which were a little bigger.
Mostly AMBO sail half inch to the foot scale 1 : 24 which gives a model about 4 feet long.
Regards
Roy
Mostly AMBO sail half inch to the foot scale 1 : 24 which gives a model about 4 feet long.
Regards
Roy
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Thames Sailing Barges
Good day all
I have been scratch building electric model boats for a number of years but wish to try my hand at sail. Recently I have developed an interest in traditional sail (in particular Thames sailing barges). As I live in Canada barges are not very popular and as a non sailor I have numerous questions. I am thinking I would like to scratch build in wood. I am a retired draftsman so would draw my own plans. Can someone recommend popular building scales; typical dimensions and weight; source of free plans if available. Your thoughts are welcome.
Thank you for your attention
Robert
I have been scratch building electric model boats for a number of years but wish to try my hand at sail. Recently I have developed an interest in traditional sail (in particular Thames sailing barges). As I live in Canada barges are not very popular and as a non sailor I have numerous questions. I am thinking I would like to scratch build in wood. I am a retired draftsman so would draw my own plans. Can someone recommend popular building scales; typical dimensions and weight; source of free plans if available. Your thoughts are welcome.
Thank you for your attention
Robert
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