HI Shaun
Yes email addresses are not published on the forum.
You have sent me a pm with your email address so I will be sharing the files shortly
Dave

HI Dave,

Thanks for the reply, been pulling my hair out trying to work out how it all fits in place, the diagram in the instructions is not very explanatory. I would very much appreciate the photographs because I have no doubt I am going to come across some more head scratchers in the near future. is there a way to send you my e mail address outside the public domain as I'm a bit careful about personal details.

I'm newly returned to boating after a number of years break and there seems to be a whole raft of new technologies to get my head round, as I remember most boats of this type had marine glow engines in them as the weight ruled out what little electric kit was available particularly if you wanted any kind of duration.

Cheers Shaun

HI Shaun
I started building mine in the early 70's and finished it 20 years later so my recollection is not that clear.
I do have many photos of my Solent that I have shared with others building the kit so this may be of help.
My recolection is that the tunnel is attached to formers at the rear and 1mm ply is used. As it is curved you have to align the grain of the ply with the tunnel to allow for the curve.
As I mentioned it was some years ago so I can't remember if I did the tunnel or the rear sides first but providing you make the joint good I doubt if it matters. The instructions may suggest a sequence and if possible follow this advice.

The props need to be centred in the tunnels so make two round disc templates slightly bigger than you proposed props. I got my props from Simon at PropShop. Drill a hole in the centre of each template and attach to the propshaft then align centrally in each tube. Another template at the motor end will help to keep the shafts nice and even. Make sure you leave enough room for the motors to fit inside the hull. I used two Buhler's with direct drive.
Where the props exit the hull is difficult to mark accurately but is hidden from view once installed. if I were doing it now I would drill an oversize hole and make a plate out of thin card to fit on the exterior exit. Make this a a tight fit on the propshaft then form the tunnel shape in the card. Cut out and when happy with the fit make a 1mm ply plate for each side and glue in place. Seal the inside of the hull round the propshaft with isopon or similar.

Rudders should be vertical and in line with each prop. I recall that there is little room for a tiller on the rudders and I modified my stern to make more room. Fit the rudders last and again you will need to eyeball where to drill your rudder shafts.

I've attached some pics of the stern but have many more that I can share. if you send me your email address I will share via dropbox - its free if you haven't already got an account and full details will come with my offer to share should you decide you would like the pics.

You will notice I have used oversize rudders but to turn I had to stop the inside prop - hence the micro switch. I intend to use two ESC's instead of the Bob's board. The problem is the very large central keel running the whole length of the vessel. in a turn the lifeboat start to turn then jumps back to a straight line not really very helpful. Twin control would solve this problem.

Good luck and please ask if you need more help. 😀