Which One

Started by neilmc
30 replies 66 likes Last activity: 4 years ago
#31 1

Which One

Very neat and tidy with good identification. Mine starts off tidy but always ends up like spaghetti 😂
Liked by neilmc
#30 1

Which One

Hi RodC
I agree it is unwise to connect batteries in Parallell for the reasons you state. You may well be able to use power diodes with SLA and NiMh batteries but this should not be used with LiPo's as their characteristics require close attention to each cells voltage.
Overcharging or discharging any one cell can cause irreversible damage and in the worst case destruction of the cell and battery pack.
LiPo's are available in very high capacitys and unless you are into high speed endurance racing I doubt if you would not be able to source a battery suitable for most sport usage.
Used correctly LiPo's are safe for model use but I agree you should be aware of the issuses should you not follow the correct procedures when using or charging.
dave976
Liked by neilmc and Len1 and
#29 1

Which One

42yr experience here with rechargeable batteries. I wud definitely avoid parallelling any sort of rechargeable battery unless you use isolation power diodes to prevent the batteries trying to charge each other as the terminal voltages drop during the run. Personally I favour SLA (sealed lead acid) as their weight provides ballast. Yes you get tremendous energy density with LiPOs however I'm always feeling anxiety at the fire/explosion risk. I fully embraced NIMH back in the early 2000s for aircraft use & since weight is seldom an issue in semi-scale vessels I'm quite happy to keep my NIMH chargers out of landfill.
VA3ROD
Liked by neilmc and Len1 and
#28 1

Which One

Hi,

I adapted both yours and Robs mount and it works an absolute treat 😊
On closer inspection you’ve given me the solution as to how best mount the receiver 😁
If you have another photo at a different angle to show how it’s fixed in place that would be amazing, there’s no point in reinventing a very professional wheel 😂😂

Cheers Neil
Learning so much more with each reply to my posts. One day I may have a boat in the water 🤔
Liked by Colin H
#27 1

Which One

Excellent, thanks very much
#26 1

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The housing you see is the same as mine (picture) which is home made as was Robs. All my brackets are made from 6mm black Perspex, it makes for a neat installation.
Liked by Colin H and seafarer and
#25 1

Which One

Hi Neil

CanI ask where the switch and fuse housing came from? I'm just planing my electrics and saw the arrangement you have.

thanks

Neil
Liked by stevedownunder and PeteJev
#24 1

Which One

Well it took a few weeks but happy with the end result and thanks to all for the advice.
Just waiting on new coupling before mounting the motor then on to permanent fix of the superstructure….. really not looking forward to the fwd cabin as it seems everyone has issues with getting it right 😐
Learning so much more with each reply to my posts. One day I may have a boat in the water 🤔
Liked by Colin H and stevedownunder and
#23 1

Which One

So I think I’ve managed to construct a battery compartment that will suit and provide some flexibility for a future expansion. Just need some Velcro straps now to hold the battery in place. So thanks all on the advice

Also adapted RobBobs switch and fuse housing and I was pretty impressed with it at first. Instead of the XT60 connector being used to charge the battery in situ like Robs, I thought I’d use it as just a connection for the battery. However I didn’t plan this very well and although the battery lead is long enough the pressure required to insert and remove the connector has the potential to break the bracket from its mounting. So as opposed to rebuilding I’m thinking of just adding an extension.
I’m presuming the voltage drop across the additional connectors, fuse and switch won’t be that detrimental to battery life? 🤔
Learning so much more with each reply to my posts. One day I may have a boat in the water 🤔
Liked by Colin H and seafarer and
#22 1

Which One

Thanks for the advice on the use of diodes
LEN1
#21 1

Which One

Thanks all for the advice on lipos in parallel which has saved me money and the possibility of torching my boat.
I’m going with the advice given a single battery with room for future expansion. This means I can crack on at the weekend.
Learning so much more with each reply to my posts. One day I may have a boat in the water 🤔
Liked by pressonreguardless and RNinMunich and
#19 1

Which One

Hi Neil
I agree with the advice given by Graham, do not consider connecting LiPo batteries in parallel. I know there are people who will disagree but the dangers far outweigh the benefits. If you have two batteries far safer to use one and bring the boat in and swop with the other battery.
dave976
Liked by RNinMunich and stevedownunder and
#18 1

Which One

Hi Neil,

I would avoid connecting LiPo batteries in parallel if possible, especially if they are of different manufacture. There can be all sorts of issues related to different discharge rates, and current flowing from one battery to the other. The latter problem can be solved by fitting a pair of diodes between the battery outputs.

I think your best option is to go with the battery you have, but leave enough space in the build to install a larger battery later if you find it necessary.

Glad you like the blog. It can be difficult finding older blogs on this site.

Graham93
Liked by Len1 and RNinMunich and
#17 1

Which One

Glad you were able to view the video and that it has given you extra inspiration! Please get in touch if you want any more info and I will try to help. Cheers Duncan
Liked by neilmc
#16 1

Which One

Hi Graham,

Massive disappointment last night when I found the Turnigy UK warehouse has shutdown and now only based in Hong Kong. So even though I could get a 4500maH battery for 14.99 it was 26.99 for delivery......bummer!!
So with Turnigy batteries from other suppliers being a little more expensive thought about the option of installing a second battery as suggested by Presson. As thinking two 2200mAh in parallel would give same voltage of 11.1v but longer runtime, but no sure on mixing battery manufacturer types?
So still thinking to go with the battery I have and start getting on with the build as with colder months coming spray painting could be a pain.
Liking your blog and really confused why I have not seen it before, as I have trawled the whole webpage over the last couple of weeks😁
Learning so much more with each reply to my posts. One day I may have a boat in the water 🤔
Liked by Colin H and Graham93
#15 1

Which One

Hi Duncan

Managed to get the file to download in the way you suggest and loving what I see.... looks really good on the water and has given me some more inspiration to crack on.
I don't think my TX has the ability to be throttled back but to be fair only used it in the shed so time will tell when it eventually goes on the water.
Cheers Neil
Learning so much more with each reply to my posts. One day I may have a boat in the water 🤔
#14 1

Which One

Hi Neil,

The battery is a Zippy which I probably sourced from HobbyKing. It's a 3S 11.1v 4500mAh and it fits transversely in the rear cabin.

There are a few reasons for the relatively short run time. I packed so many extras into the hull ( working lights, monitors, exhaust smoke, etc) that it is heavy, and they consume more power. Also I tend to drive at full speed most of the time!😂

My blog showing all the extras is here: https://model-boats.com/blogs/60819
Liked by RNinMunich and neilmc and
#13 1

Which One

Yet another text!! I've just downloaded the file on my phone. Then went to my downloaded folder and from here it played OK. When trying to play the downloaded file from within model boats website I just got a black screen! Hope this helps. Please let me know. Cheers Duncan
#12 1

Which One

P. S. I'm using a Planet TS2+2 transmitter and receiver which has a switch on the transmitter to allow you to cut the engine power down to a selected rating. Cost around £40. Great when you are learning or letting the children have a go! At the flick of the switch you can then return to full power - as can be seen in the video. The grand children love it! 😊
#11 1

Which One

Hiya. There should be a download arrow somewhere at the top to view the media file. Sometimes it is on the media icon and sometimes I have found the arrow in one of the top corners of the screen. My battery is The Overlander brand Supersport Pro, 11.1 v 3s 24.4wh. 35c constant discharge. My boat was built by my myself in my early twenties so it is now over 50 years old! I refurbed the boat during lock down for something to do! Cheers Duncan
Liked by neilmc
#10 1

Which One

Hi Duncan
Just tried media file on my phone and it didn’t play. I’d be really interested to see your boat if you’re able to reload it?
Cheers Neil
Learning so much more with each reply to my posts. One day I may have a boat in the water 🤔
#9 1

Which One

Hi Trev,

It's an absolute minefield out there when looking for a battery so many different types from when I purchased the one I have, but think the motor is best suited to 11.1 v so a 3S battery seems to be the one.
I'm thinking to keep it simple I'll retain the single battery option, but Graham93's comment has got me thinking about run time - although Duncan has reduced my initial worry.
I'll have a look at prices and then look at the benefits.
Cheers Neil
Learning so much more with each reply to my posts. One day I may have a boat in the water 🤔
Liked by pressonreguardless
#8 1

Which One

Hi Duncan,

That's a fantastic reply as the Turnigy motor I have is also a 1000Kv so hopefully should be the same running time, so this could save me some pennies which is a bonus 😊.
I'm thinking of going for the aft section as Graham93 makes a good a point about it planing better and not being an expert at sailing I don't fancy my first sail becoming a 'dive dive dive' moment🙄
I couldn't get the media file to load but will check on my phone just in case the PC is playing up.
Cheers Neil
Learning so much more with each reply to my posts. One day I may have a boat in the water 🤔
#7 1

Which One

The size of the battery is dependent on the Amp Hours (Mah).
If length is a problem, you could go with two smaller output batteries.
Dependent on the voltage requirement of the motor and the voltage output of the batteries would determine whether they would be hooked up in series or parallel.
Trev
Liked by neilmc
#6 1

Which One

Hiya,

I've got a 2200Mah LIPO battery in the front compartment and it is positioned with velco against the rear bulkhead of this front compartment. The battery is not shown but it fastens against the black velco behind the watercooled 50amp ESC. The motor is a 1000kv Prodrive brushless which I bought from SLEC (no longer stocked but they appear to have equivalents). The motor mounting and the prop shaft coupling are also from SLEC.The boat planes well in my opinion as can be seen at the end of the attached video. Initially the speed is 'slugged' by a switch on the transmitter but after stopping the boat the power reduction is removed and it goes fast in my opinion. I slow down before turning because I feel it may overturn at full throttle! I probably get a good 20-30 minutes runtime. Hope this is of help.
Cheers Duncan
Liked by neilmc and pressonreguardless
#5 1

Which One

Thanks Graham and Presson for the guidance and will be site the battery as you suggest once a new battery is chosen 😀
Graham93 could I ask which battery make you went for as the Turnigy ones I’ve at looked are quite long?
Cheers Neil
Learning so much more with each reply to my posts. One day I may have a boat in the water 🤔
Liked by Graham93 and pressonreguardless
#4 1

Which One

Hi Neil,

I would position the battery aft of the motor, as in your second photo. It will plane better if the weight is towards the stern.

One battery should be fine - it really depends on what other auxiliaries you are planning to install. I have a 3S 4500mAh LiPo in my 34” Crash Tender which gives around 30 minutes duration, so you might want to consider upgrading your 2200mAh to something with more capacity.

Graham93
Liked by jbkiwi and neilmc
#3 1

Which One

Good point Trev about powering the esc. It is customary to cut the red lead feed from the esc when there are 2 batteries involved. I offer another solution which is to fit an intermediate servo extension lead between the esc and rx and cut that red wire. Keeps everything simple.
Liked by neilmc
#2 1

Which One

Hi Neil,
I usually mount a single battery fore to aft midships, favoring the side that levels the boat.
Usually, the receiver is powered by the lead from the ESC. DO NOT power it from both the ESC and a power supply.
Hope that helps.
Trev
Liked by neilmc and Dumaspittman
#1 1

Which One

Hi All

I’m in the process again of trying to finish my project and to be fair with the help of SLEC and this forum I’m not doing too bad at the moment.

Having dry fitted the superstructure which went really well with added help from Norway. Before I start the permanent fix I’m trying to figure out which section to mount the battery in.
I’m thinking at the moment two sections could be used for mounting everything (as in photos) but wondered if I could get some feedback for you all?

I’ve had a good look around the forum and the majority of pictures seem to show two batteries which is ideal for distribution of weight, but I only have one battery so wonder which config would be better - fwd to aft or port to stbd?

Also is it advisable to install a separate battery to power the receiver or is the load so low that it doesn’t really matter?

Thanks Neil
Learning so much more with each reply to my posts. One day I may have a boat in the water 🤔
Liked by Dumaspittman and pressonreguardless

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