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I agree it is unwise to connect batteries in Parallell for the reasons you state. You may well be able to use power diodes with SLA and NiMh batteries but this should not be used with LiPo's as their characteristics require close attention to each cells voltage.
Overcharging or discharging any one cell can cause irreversible damage and in the worst case destruction of the cell and battery pack.
LiPo's are available in very high capacitys and unless you are into high speed endurance racing I doubt if you would not be able to source a battery suitable for most sport usage.
Used correctly LiPo's are safe for model use but I agree you should be aware of the issuses should you not follow the correct procedures when using or charging.
dave976
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I adapted both yours and Robs mount and it works an absolute treat 😊
On closer inspection you’ve given me the solution as to how best mount the receiver 😁
If you have another photo at a different angle to show how it’s fixed in place that would be amazing, there’s no point in reinventing a very professional wheel 😂😂
Cheers Neil
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CanI ask where the switch and fuse housing came from? I'm just planing my electrics and saw the arrangement you have.
thanks
Neil
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Just waiting on new coupling before mounting the motor then on to permanent fix of the superstructure….. really not looking forward to the fwd cabin as it seems everyone has issues with getting it right 😐
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Also adapted RobBobs switch and fuse housing and I was pretty impressed with it at first. Instead of the XT60 connector being used to charge the battery in situ like Robs, I thought I’d use it as just a connection for the battery. However I didn’t plan this very well and although the battery lead is long enough the pressure required to insert and remove the connector has the potential to break the bracket from its mounting. So as opposed to rebuilding I’m thinking of just adding an extension.
I’m presuming the voltage drop across the additional connectors, fuse and switch won’t be that detrimental to battery life? 🤔
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I’m going with the advice given a single battery with room for future expansion. This means I can crack on at the weekend.
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Trev
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I agree with the advice given by Graham, do not consider connecting LiPo batteries in parallel. I know there are people who will disagree but the dangers far outweigh the benefits. If you have two batteries far safer to use one and bring the boat in and swop with the other battery.
dave976
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I would avoid connecting LiPo batteries in parallel if possible, especially if they are of different manufacture. There can be all sorts of issues related to different discharge rates, and current flowing from one battery to the other. The latter problem can be solved by fitting a pair of diodes between the battery outputs.
I think your best option is to go with the battery you have, but leave enough space in the build to install a larger battery later if you find it necessary.
Glad you like the blog. It can be difficult finding older blogs on this site.
Graham93
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Massive disappointment last night when I found the Turnigy UK warehouse has shutdown and now only based in Hong Kong. So even though I could get a 4500maH battery for 14.99 it was 26.99 for delivery......bummer!!
So with Turnigy batteries from other suppliers being a little more expensive thought about the option of installing a second battery as suggested by Presson. As thinking two 2200mAh in parallel would give same voltage of 11.1v but longer runtime, but no sure on mixing battery manufacturer types?
So still thinking to go with the battery I have and start getting on with the build as with colder months coming spray painting could be a pain.
Liking your blog and really confused why I have not seen it before, as I have trawled the whole webpage over the last couple of weeks😁
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Managed to get the file to download in the way you suggest and loving what I see.... looks really good on the water and has given me some more inspiration to crack on.
I don't think my TX has the ability to be throttled back but to be fair only used it in the shed so time will tell when it eventually goes on the water.
Cheers Neil
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The battery is a Zippy which I probably sourced from HobbyKing. It's a 3S 11.1v 4500mAh and it fits transversely in the rear cabin.
There are a few reasons for the relatively short run time. I packed so many extras into the hull ( working lights, monitors, exhaust smoke, etc) that it is heavy, and they consume more power. Also I tend to drive at full speed most of the time!😂
My blog showing all the extras is here: https://model-boats.com/blogs/60819
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Just tried media file on my phone and it didn’t play. I’d be really interested to see your boat if you’re able to reload it?
Cheers Neil
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It's an absolute minefield out there when looking for a battery so many different types from when I purchased the one I have, but think the motor is best suited to 11.1 v so a 3S battery seems to be the one.
I'm thinking to keep it simple I'll retain the single battery option, but Graham93's comment has got me thinking about run time - although Duncan has reduced my initial worry.
I'll have a look at prices and then look at the benefits.
Cheers Neil
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That's a fantastic reply as the Turnigy motor I have is also a 1000Kv so hopefully should be the same running time, so this could save me some pennies which is a bonus 😊.
I'm thinking of going for the aft section as Graham93 makes a good a point about it planing better and not being an expert at sailing I don't fancy my first sail becoming a 'dive dive dive' moment🙄
I couldn't get the media file to load but will check on my phone just in case the PC is playing up.
Cheers Neil
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If length is a problem, you could go with two smaller output batteries.
Dependent on the voltage requirement of the motor and the voltage output of the batteries would determine whether they would be hooked up in series or parallel.
Trev
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I've got a 2200Mah LIPO battery in the front compartment and it is positioned with velco against the rear bulkhead of this front compartment. The battery is not shown but it fastens against the black velco behind the watercooled 50amp ESC. The motor is a 1000kv Prodrive brushless which I bought from SLEC (no longer stocked but they appear to have equivalents). The motor mounting and the prop shaft coupling are also from SLEC.The boat planes well in my opinion as can be seen at the end of the attached video. Initially the speed is 'slugged' by a switch on the transmitter but after stopping the boat the power reduction is removed and it goes fast in my opinion. I slow down before turning because I feel it may overturn at full throttle! I probably get a good 20-30 minutes runtime. Hope this is of help.
Cheers Duncan
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Graham93 could I ask which battery make you went for as the Turnigy ones I’ve at looked are quite long?
Cheers Neil
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I would position the battery aft of the motor, as in your second photo. It will plane better if the weight is towards the stern.
One battery should be fine - it really depends on what other auxiliaries you are planning to install. I have a 3S 4500mAh LiPo in my 34” Crash Tender which gives around 30 minutes duration, so you might want to consider upgrading your 2200mAh to something with more capacity.
Graham93
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I usually mount a single battery fore to aft midships, favoring the side that levels the boat.
Usually, the receiver is powered by the lead from the ESC. DO NOT power it from both the ESC and a power supply.
Hope that helps.
Trev
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I’m in the process again of trying to finish my project and to be fair with the help of SLEC and this forum I’m not doing too bad at the moment.
Having dry fitted the superstructure which went really well with added help from Norway. Before I start the permanent fix I’m trying to figure out which section to mount the battery in.
I’m thinking at the moment two sections could be used for mounting everything (as in photos) but wondered if I could get some feedback for you all?
I’ve had a good look around the forum and the majority of pictures seem to show two batteries which is ideal for distribution of weight, but I only have one battery so wonder which config would be better - fwd to aft or port to stbd?
Also is it advisable to install a separate battery to power the receiver or is the load so low that it doesn’t really matter?
Thanks Neil
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